Mechanicals on tour
#51
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I can say is that I have used it quite a few times and have not had any problems. I don't tighten cassettes super tight though.
Could it damage some dropout designs? I don't know, but it seems unlikely to me for it to do real damage unless you fail to follow the directions for the tool. Minor paint issues can occur in a spot I wouldn't even notice, but they can be avoided. These days Unior provides a piece of what looks like HDPE plastic to protect the paint where the tool bears against the dropout. I never bothered protecting that spot and never noticed any damage, but you certainly can if you are worried about it either with the now provided piece of plastic or with something else.
Check out a video of it at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jcuUjEzsuT8
Could it damage some dropout designs? I don't know, but it seems unlikely to me for it to do real damage unless you fail to follow the directions for the tool. Minor paint issues can occur in a spot I wouldn't even notice, but they can be avoided. These days Unior provides a piece of what looks like HDPE plastic to protect the paint where the tool bears against the dropout. I never bothered protecting that spot and never noticed any damage, but you certainly can if you are worried about it either with the now provided piece of plastic or with something else.
Check out a video of it at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jcuUjEzsuT8
#52
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I used to carry a pretty robust set of tools until ine day I had a pedal self destruct on a tour. I had to pedal On tHE stub of an axle for several hours until I got to my destinaion. From there I called Nashbar and ordered a replacement pedal overnighted for 10:30 AM delivery. The FedEx guy came and even had a crecent wrench in his truck to loan me for a minute to make the swap. Now I carry just a few basic tools and basically use FedEx and local bike shops if something severe happens. I mean, you can get a set of wheels or a chain tool overnighted anywhere in the world if you need them... though pretty much I do not tour in very remote places so I can find a way to get a few miles to somewhere I can get more serious help if I need. I rely a lot on other resources now in an emergency.
I managed to travel about 8 miles on a chainless bike by walking it, strider riding it and coasting down hills. I averaged 8 MPH that way, so you can almost always get by. I have loaded my bike in my lap in thr back of an Uber ride in a pinch. I hve a carried the luggage of a friend on a tour for 15 miles when his frame showed a crack as he nursed it along for the final day of our tour..
For me, a good quality bike well maintained before departure and resourcefulness on the ride are a pretty good replacement for a lot of infrequently used worst-case tools like BB tools, cone/pedal wrenches, spare wheels, etc... And just good multitool, tire levers, extra master, link small rag and gloves and now that thing in the video above is basiclly what I will carry.
I managed to travel about 8 miles on a chainless bike by walking it, strider riding it and coasting down hills. I averaged 8 MPH that way, so you can almost always get by. I have loaded my bike in my lap in thr back of an Uber ride in a pinch. I hve a carried the luggage of a friend on a tour for 15 miles when his frame showed a crack as he nursed it along for the final day of our tour..
For me, a good quality bike well maintained before departure and resourcefulness on the ride are a pretty good replacement for a lot of infrequently used worst-case tools like BB tools, cone/pedal wrenches, spare wheels, etc... And just good multitool, tire levers, extra master, link small rag and gloves and now that thing in the video above is basiclly what I will carry.
#53
Overdoing projects
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Not sure if this is possible on all hubs but I use a SunXCD high flange hub. I tapped (M6) the hub so I can use a quick-release skewer to pop off the entire cassette body. Makes it fairly easy to replace drive-side spokes if it ever comes to that.
A 6mm bolt is fairly light to carry around...
Velo Duo made a video about it.
As for tools, this is what I carry. I love the (fairly expensive) Knipex 8603125 mini wrench pliers. 105 grams for all bolts between 0-23mm and it helps to grip or bend items back into shape.
A 6mm bolt is fairly light to carry around...
Velo Duo made a video about it.
As for tools, this is what I carry. I love the (fairly expensive) Knipex 8603125 mini wrench pliers. 105 grams for all bolts between 0-23mm and it helps to grip or bend items back into shape.
Last edited by JaccoW; 11-20-19 at 04:35 AM.
#54
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For me, a good quality bike well maintained before departure and resourcefulness on the ride are a pretty good replacement for a lot of infrequently used worst-case tools like BB tools, cone/pedal wrenches, spare wheels, etc... And just good multitool, tire levers, extra master, link small rag and gloves and now that thing in the video above is basiclly what I will carry.
#55
Senior Member
I agree with adding a cassette removal tool, and I usually carry a 6" adjustable. That can change a pedal in a pinch.
Most of my tool kit is in my head. I pay close attention to the bike as I ride it. For instance, if I need to adjust shift cable tension more than once a week, I'll inspect the cable for fraying or housing failure, then replace it before it breaks. When I pump up tires, I'll check the wheels for play. I'll check the headset when stopped with the front brake on. I'll give a crank a squeeze against the seat tube once in a while to check the bottom bracket, and check pedals while I'm there.
Same thing for the motor--if something starts hurting, don't ignore it.
Most of my tool kit is in my head. I pay close attention to the bike as I ride it. For instance, if I need to adjust shift cable tension more than once a week, I'll inspect the cable for fraying or housing failure, then replace it before it breaks. When I pump up tires, I'll check the wheels for play. I'll check the headset when stopped with the front brake on. I'll give a crank a squeeze against the seat tube once in a while to check the bottom bracket, and check pedals while I'm there.
Same thing for the motor--if something starts hurting, don't ignore it.
#56
Senior Member
Looking over my tools and wondering if I need to add some to the travel kit. Is a bottom bracket tool really useful for the hollow techs?
I mean, they are sealed systems where no maintenance can be done, if it becomes loose, a good hand tighten will be enough for a temp solution, and if I need to replace it, I'm sure the LBS where I buy one will have the tool.
Am I missing something?
As far as carrying a crescent wrench (adjustable) just for a cassette tool, my tool has a hole where I can use a hex wrench for leverage for moderate torque. No need to carry such a heavy piece for very rare use.
#57
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I'm probably the only person on this planet that carries a crank arm bolt when I tour. Why, because I'm probably the only person on this planet that has had one actually back out, getting lost somewhere along the way and create a miserable experience (it's a show stopper). Normally it's hard to get one of those loose when you want to remove it unless you're the Hulk or use a cheater bar, but NOOOO, I had one actually back out on it's own. Btw, good luck finding one anywhere, short of ordering online.
#58
Crawler
Not sure if this is possible on all hubs but I use a SunXCD high flange hub. I tapped (M6) the hub so I can use a quick-release skewer to pop off the entire cassette body. Makes it fairly easy to replace drive-side spokes if it ever comes to that.
A 6mm bolt is fairly light to carry around...
.......
A 6mm bolt is fairly light to carry around...
.......
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#59
Crawler
I'm probably the only person on this planet that carries a crank arm bolt when I tour. Why, because I'm probably the only person on this planet that has had one actually back out, getting lost somewhere along the way and create a miserable experience (it's a show stopper). Normally it's hard to get one of those loose when you want to remove it unless you're the Hulk or use a cheater bar, but NOOOO, I had one actually back out on it's own. Btw, good luck finding one anywhere, short of ordering online.
#60
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I'm probably the only person on this planet that carries a crank arm bolt when I tour. Why, because I'm probably the only person on this planet that has had one actually back out, getting lost somewhere along the way and create a miserable experience (it's a show stopper). Normally it's hard to get one of those loose when you want to remove it unless you're the Hulk or use a cheater bar, but NOOOO, I had one actually back out on it's own. Btw, good luck finding one anywhere, short of ordering online.
A few decades ago in the era of toe clips (before clipless pedals), a friend of mine was telling me that he was out for a ride and suddenly heard someone yelling loudly several swear words, he looked and saw a cyclist with the pedal hanging from his shoe, strapped on with the toe clip, and a crank arm hanging loosely from the pedal. So, if that happened to you, I can see why you carry a spare.
I have to pull the crank arms off to pack my S&S coupled bike, I carry the puller but do not carry a spare bolt. And carry the 8mm allen wrench you need for the bolt.
I used to use self extracting bolts, but one of the self extracting mechanisms self extracted somewhere in the middle of Iceland. When I went to pack up the bike, I had to remove the self extractor off of one arm and install it on the other to get that crank off, and I did not have the proper tools to do that, but it had to be done and somehow got it done. Now I carry a proper crank puller instead of gambling on those self extractors.
Major bummer when you realize the extractor is missing.
I have heard that a broken seatpost bolt can be pretty disastrous. I used to carry a spare, but when I realized that my stem cap bolt would fit, stopped carrying a spare. But one of my bikes, the stem cap bolt will not fit so I do carry a spare on that bike.
#61
Senior Member
Re seatpost bolt, amongst my various doofus moves over the years, I've broken seat post bolts twice, on one of my bikes and a kids bike.... Simply being stupid and over tightening...
#62
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I occasionally note that my seatpost slipped a bit, thus needed more tightening. I wrap some electrical tape around the post but leave about a 5mm gap between the tape and frame so I can see if there was any slippage.
#63
Senior Member
Did you have any trouble getting the threaded part out?
I occasionally note that my seatpost slipped a bit, thus needed more tightening. I wrap some electrical tape around the post but leave about a 5mm gap between the tape and frame so I can see if there was any slippage.
I occasionally note that my seatpost slipped a bit, thus needed more tightening. I wrap some electrical tape around the post but leave about a 5mm gap between the tape and frame so I can see if there was any slippage.
I've taken a spare bolt when I traveled with my old mtb maybe 6 years ago, and should have a spare for my troll in case i repeat the mistake one day, although i certainly am more careful now.
I've done other dumb over tightening things too, so one never knows if I could mess up again.
And yes, I also put tape or a grease pencil mark as a reference to keep an eye on.
#64
Senior Member
Agree -- but as for adjustable wrench, I've been known to cut down a 8- or 10-inch adjustable so it would fit in my tool bag... My Fuji's headset nut would have needed the larger adjustment that the bigger (but shorter) wrench provided... A few minutes with a cut-off wheel in your home shop can/will save you HOURS of time on the side of the road.
As far as an 8" or 10" adjustable wrench, that is a pretty heavy tool even if you cut the handle down. I'd think you could take a whole stack of the thin park tool wrenches like the HCW-6 (a short pedal-headset combo), cone wrenches, and others, basically all the wrenches for everything on the bike, and still be as light as a cut down 8" wrench.
#65
Senior Member
not all 6" wrenches have identical jaw gaps. i took my cassette tool to the local tool store to try out all the brands until i found one that fit. most did not.
#66
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I had my nephew weld a small but to the top of my cassette tool in order to be able to use a small crescent wrench. Works great. BTW I do not over tighten so I can easily use my modified chain whip. I short length of chain and a length of nylon cord wrapped around the wheel.
#67
Senior Member
depends....some cassette tools are a wee bit thinner than others, some folks grind down the flats. you could always modify an old cone wrench, but then you'd lose the benefits of having an adjustable wrench.
not all 6" wrenches have identical jaw gaps. i took my cassette tool to the local tool store to try out all the brands until i found one that fit. most did not.
not all 6" wrenches have identical jaw gaps. i took my cassette tool to the local tool store to try out all the brands until i found one that fit. most did not.
#68
Senior Member
as staep says, same with me, all of my smaller adjustable wrenches are too small.
re a larger wrench, on my first big bike trip I took waaaay too much stuff, specifically tools, and although I dont recall exactly, I may have taken a bigger adjustable wrench and other dumb stuff that weighed a ton.
oh btw, I never heard back from the Unior company in eastern europe about do they sell their product in canada....
re a larger wrench, on my first big bike trip I took waaaay too much stuff, specifically tools, and although I dont recall exactly, I may have taken a bigger adjustable wrench and other dumb stuff that weighed a ton.
oh btw, I never heard back from the Unior company in eastern europe about do they sell their product in canada....
#69
Senior Member
I had my nephew weld a small but to the top of my cassette tool in order to be able to use a small crescent wrench. Works great. BTW I do not over tighten so I can easily use my modified chain whip. I short length of chain and a length of nylon cord wrapped around the wheel.
#70
Senior Member
I agree with all of that. I am just surprised that so many comments just say "I take a 6 inch adjustable wrench". It seems to imply that they just fit. I found that as a general rule they don't. If they ground the cassette tool you would think that would be mentioned. I checked my tools and the 8" adjustable wrenches that I have just fit the cassette tools that I have with very little extra wiggle room.
the tool flats measure 19mm. the 6" (150mm) wrench is marked "大开口" (wide opening), and will open to 22mm.
I don't overtighten the lock ring, so do not carry a chain whip.
#71
Senior Member
this is just your basic cheap (cheaper than harbor freight) wrench from a local shop here in china, same for the cassette tool. tool weighs 48g, wrench is 126g.
the tool flats measure 19mm. the 6" (150mm) wrench is marked "大开口" (wide opening), and will open to 22mm.
I don't overtighten the lock ring, so do not carry a chain whip.
the tool flats measure 19mm. the 6" (150mm) wrench is marked "大开口" (wide opening), and will open to 22mm.
I don't overtighten the lock ring, so do not carry a chain whip.
#72
Senior Member
I have to say, I'm leery of having to carry another tool (an adjustable wrench specifically). I already have added a very light set of small needle nose pliers to my "long trip kit" because they make changing disc pads a lot easier on my BB7's, and am leaning very much towards a "unior" type small light cassette tool combined with a "strap and whatever" light chainwhip equivalent, for future trips, figuring the chances are smallish that I'll need them given my riding history--so keep the weight to a minimum.
#73
Senior Member
No need for chain whip or equivalent with the unior or other cracker type cassette type tools.
#74
Senior Member
oops, forgot to add, "if with my horizontal dropouts it wouldnt work properly" , although I guess at that point the only advantage to the unior is that its small and light, compared to a regular sized cassette tool like we have, the 24mm ones
#75
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.... I am just surprised that so many comments just say "I take a 6 inch adjustable wrench". It seems to imply that they just fit. I found that as a general rule they don't. If they ground the cassette tool you would think that would be mentioned. I checked my tools and the 8" adjustable wrenches that I have just fit the cassette tools that I have with very little extra wiggle room.
Last winter at a swap meet I saw a cone wrench of typical cone wrench length that on one end was 23 or 24mm. My Park cassette tools (one for Campy, one for Shimano/Sram) were both one inch, or 25.4mm. Bought the cone wrench and filed it down to fit. Weighs 55 grams.
I noted above and am repeating here that I previously started a thread with a light weight substitute for a chain whip. The photo I posted at this link also includes the cassette tool that I filed down to fit the wrench in that photo, but I now would carry the filed down cone wrench which is lighter.
https://www.bikeforums.net/touring/8...ip-travel.html
Wow, I started that thread in 2012, time flies when you are having fun.
***
A side note, when I put my folding bike into my S&S case, I found that the wheels fit better when I pulled the cassette off the rear wheel. Thus, broken spokes are not the only reason to pull a cassette off.
Note to Staehpj1, that also gave me an excuse to tighten up that little screw that holds all the cassette sprockets together, Sram cassette takes a 1.5mm allen wrench. If I recall, you had a problem with that little screw and your spoke heads on one occasion.