Chosen hub, unknown bearings
10-13-20, 04:09 AM
#1
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Chosen hub, unknown bearings
After 350km and some light shock loads the front and rear bearings (IBR-STAR) in Chosen hubs (Raleigh Pro Build) feel slightly gritty and notchy. Can't remember how smooth they were in the beginning. Not sure if it's normal or not since it has been said that hubs with spacers over axle joining two bearings together are designed to loosen when tightening QR sqever. Couldn't find anything about these Chinese bearings in forums, or anyone complaining about Raleigh Pro Build wheels in reviews. Only in the link below it says that they are high-end bearings.
https://www.nine-global.com/en/product.html
https://www.nine-global.com/en/product.html
Last edited by sysrq; 10-13-20 at 04:18 AM.
10-13-20, 06:33 AM
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just read the number code on the bearing seal to get the size. It should be something like 6804 or some other four-digit number. that code tells you the dimensions.
10-13-20, 07:18 AM
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It reads like you have a cartridge bearinged hub, true? (Link didn't work for me).
Radical contact bearings are very sensitive to conditions of the install. Any distortion of the bearings, relative to either each other or to the axle, will result in fast wearing bearings. So an axle that bows under the skewer's pressure, a hub shell with bearing seats that are not parallel to each other and/or drop outs that induce a bending to the axle are all bad situations.
Additionally the seals that the bearings have are not usually designed to keep out water (there are water emersion grade seals/bearings, just never seen any on a bicycle). So lots of water with the bearing spinning means that water can enter the bearing and once there reduce the effectiveness of the lube or help rust start up. Andy
Radical contact bearings are very sensitive to conditions of the install. Any distortion of the bearings, relative to either each other or to the axle, will result in fast wearing bearings. So an axle that bows under the skewer's pressure, a hub shell with bearing seats that are not parallel to each other and/or drop outs that induce a bending to the axle are all bad situations.
Additionally the seals that the bearings have are not usually designed to keep out water (there are water emersion grade seals/bearings, just never seen any on a bicycle). So lots of water with the bearing spinning means that water can enter the bearing and once there reduce the effectiveness of the lube or help rust start up. Andy
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AndrewRStewart
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10-13-20, 03:47 PM
#4
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It reads like you have a cartridge bearinged hub, true? (Link didn't work for me).
Radical contact bearings are very sensitive to conditions of the install. Any distortion of the bearings, relative to either each other or to the axle, will result in fast wearing bearings. So an axle that bows under the skewer's pressure, a hub shell with bearing seats that are not parallel to each other and/or drop outs that induce a bending to the axle are all bad situations.
Additionally the seals that the bearings have are not usually designed to keep out water (there are water emersion grade seals/bearings, just never seen any on a bicycle). So lots of water with the bearing spinning means that water can enter the bearing and once there reduce the effectiveness of the lube or help rust start up. Andy
Radical contact bearings are very sensitive to conditions of the install. Any distortion of the bearings, relative to either each other or to the axle, will result in fast wearing bearings. So an axle that bows under the skewer's pressure, a hub shell with bearing seats that are not parallel to each other and/or drop outs that induce a bending to the axle are all bad situations.
Additionally the seals that the bearings have are not usually designed to keep out water (there are water emersion grade seals/bearings, just never seen any on a bicycle). So lots of water with the bearing spinning means that water can enter the bearing and once there reduce the effectiveness of the lube or help rust start up. Andy
10-13-20, 06:55 PM
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The only reason for misalignment I see is centering the wheel between the chainstays and seatstays, it won't stay in the center naturally (as usual). There hasn't been any water or rain near the bike. Maybe metallic particles from the pawls and engagement ring got past the seals due to overgreasing noisy freehub?
Back to bearings- There are well made hubs and less so using the same design elements. There are better grades of bearings, and less so, of the same dimensional spec. As mack_turtle said get the bearing spec number (usually molded onto the seal) and replace with the best (non ceramic) you can source. Install using proper techniques and go ride the bike. If the QC of the hub (or some other production issue) is poor the new ones will feel rough soon enough.
I very much doubt that metal chips have gotten past the seals. But when you remove the bearings and expose the internals you'll see easily what the insides look like. Andy
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AndrewRStewart
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10-13-20, 07:28 PM
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After 350km and some light shock loads the front and rear bearings (IBR-STAR) in Chosen hubs (Raleigh Pro Build) feel slightly gritty and notchy. Can't remember how smooth they were in the beginning. Not sure if it's normal or not since it has been said that hubs with spacers over axle joining two bearings together are designed to loosen when tightening QR sqever. Couldn't find anything about these Chinese bearings in forums, or anyone complaining about Raleigh Pro Build wheels in reviews. Only in the link below it says that they are high-end bearings.
Star Bearing Co., Ltd. Tongxiang drill
Star Bearing Co., Ltd. Tongxiang drill
(Chosen importer...)
Chosen's cartridge bearing hubs are Taiwan with Taiwan/Japanese bearings.
=8-|
__________________
5000+ wheels built since 1984...
Disclaimer:
1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
5. My all time favorite book is:
Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life
5000+ wheels built since 1984...
Disclaimer:
1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
5. My all time favorite book is:
Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life
10-13-20, 07:49 PM
#7
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Thread Starter
Independent of the bearing issues this situation would make me stop and figure out why.
Back to bearings- There are well made hubs and less so using the same design elements. There are better grades of bearings, and less so, of the same dimensional spec. As mack_turtle said get the bearing spec number (usually molded onto the seal) and replace with the best (non ceramic) you can source. Install using proper techniques and go ride the bike. If the QC of the hub (or some other production issue) is poor the new ones will feel rough soon enough.
I very much doubt that metal chips have gotten past the seals. But when you remove the bearings and expose the internals you'll see easily what the insides look like. Andy
Back to bearings- There are well made hubs and less so using the same design elements. There are better grades of bearings, and less so, of the same dimensional spec. As mack_turtle said get the bearing spec number (usually molded onto the seal) and replace with the best (non ceramic) you can source. Install using proper techniques and go ride the bike. If the QC of the hub (or some other production issue) is poor the new ones will feel rough soon enough.
I very much doubt that metal chips have gotten past the seals. But when you remove the bearings and expose the internals you'll see easily what the insides look like. Andy
The rear hub has an oversized aluminium axle (transition fit), so might be more immune to misalignment. The front hub is trough axle used with QR axle conversion (essentially supported by the end caps, clearance fit).
Can't see the reason to replace them yet (unless therey disintegrate during the tour) since
seems like the roughness sometimes goes away,
they haven't paid for themselves yet,
all Chinese bearings have been durable enough so far (high quality stuff usually is more delicate/fragile(might not apply to bearings probably),
not able to justify buying blind bearing puller yet since I normally ride about 6-8 times per year,
if rims wear out then I will need another wheel anyway.
Can’t see the reason to replace them yet, unless they disintegrate during the tour. So far all Chinese components in my cycling history have been durable enough. High quality parts are usually more delicate.
Last edited by sysrq; 10-13-20 at 09:13 PM.
10-13-20, 08:11 PM
#8
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sbr@sbr.com.tw
Tongxiang City itself is in China.
Another one mentioning IBR-STAR in their company profile is here.
https://www.etradeasia.com/supplier-2591/I-STAR-INTERNATIONAL-CO-LTD.html
Last edited by sysrq; 10-13-20 at 08:27 PM.
10-13-20, 08:31 PM
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10-14-20, 12:41 AM
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The only reference to Taiwan I could find in their website was their sales department email
sbr@sbr.com.tw
Tongxiang City itself is in China.
Another one mentioning IBR-STAR in their company profile is here.
https://www.etradeasia.com/supplier-...AL-CO-LTD.html
sbr@sbr.com.tw
Tongxiang City itself is in China.
Another one mentioning IBR-STAR in their company profile is here.
https://www.etradeasia.com/supplier-...AL-CO-LTD.html
=8-|
Picture of the hub please...
=8-|
__________________
5000+ wheels built since 1984...
Disclaimer:
1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
5. My all time favorite book is:
Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life
5000+ wheels built since 1984...
Disclaimer:
1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
5. My all time favorite book is:
Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life
10-14-20, 03:18 AM
#11
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10-14-20, 12:23 PM
#12
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Your rear hub is this one:
Chosen Co., Ltd:::HUBS?Disc brake?wheel set
Front hub is probably an M9 version of this:
Chosen Co., Ltd:::HUBS?Disc brake?wheel set
Contact: chosen.twn@msa.hinet.net
Ask for "April"
Make sure you send the same photos.
And then ask for the Cartridge Bearing Numbers #### for rebuilding the hubs.
Finally, I recommended checking the dropout alignments front and rear - cartridge bearing hubs are sensitive to dropout misalignment.
=8-|
Chosen Co., Ltd:::HUBS?Disc brake?wheel set
Front hub is probably an M9 version of this:
Chosen Co., Ltd:::HUBS?Disc brake?wheel set
Contact: chosen.twn@msa.hinet.net
Ask for "April"
Make sure you send the same photos.
And then ask for the Cartridge Bearing Numbers #### for rebuilding the hubs.
Finally, I recommended checking the dropout alignments front and rear - cartridge bearing hubs are sensitive to dropout misalignment.
=8-|
__________________
5000+ wheels built since 1984...
Disclaimer:
1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
5. My all time favorite book is:
Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life
5000+ wheels built since 1984...
Disclaimer:
1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
5. My all time favorite book is:
Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life
10-15-20, 07:01 AM
#13
Full Member
Thread Starter
Your rear hub is this one:
Chosen Co., Ltd:::HUBS?Disc brake?wheel set
Front hub is probably an M9 version of this:
Chosen Co., Ltd:::HUBS?Disc brake?wheel set
Contact: chosen.twn@msa.hinet.net
Ask for "April"
Make sure you send the same photos.
And then ask for the Cartridge Bearing Numbers #### for rebuilding the hubs.
Finally, I recommended checking the dropout alignments front and rear - cartridge bearing hubs are sensitive to dropout misalignment.
=8-|
Chosen Co., Ltd:::HUBS?Disc brake?wheel set
Front hub is probably an M9 version of this:
Chosen Co., Ltd:::HUBS?Disc brake?wheel set
Contact: chosen.twn@msa.hinet.net
Ask for "April"
Make sure you send the same photos.
And then ask for the Cartridge Bearing Numbers #### for rebuilding the hubs.
Finally, I recommended checking the dropout alignments front and rear - cartridge bearing hubs are sensitive to dropout misalignment.
=8-|
Last edited by sysrq; 10-15-20 at 07:24 AM.
10-22-20, 05:47 PM
#14
Full Member
Thread Starter
Your rear hub is this one:
Chosen Co., Ltd:::HUBS?Disc brake?wheel set
Front hub is probably an M9 version of this:
Chosen Co., Ltd:::HUBS?Disc brake?wheel set
Contact: chosen.twn@msa.hinet.net
Ask for "April"
Make sure you send the same photos.
And then ask for the Cartridge Bearing Numbers #### for rebuilding the hubs.
Finally, I recommended checking the dropout alignments front and rear - cartridge bearing hubs are sensitive to dropout misalignment.
=8-|
Chosen Co., Ltd:::HUBS?Disc brake?wheel set
Front hub is probably an M9 version of this:
Chosen Co., Ltd:::HUBS?Disc brake?wheel set
Contact: chosen.twn@msa.hinet.net
Ask for "April"
Make sure you send the same photos.
And then ask for the Cartridge Bearing Numbers #### for rebuilding the hubs.
Finally, I recommended checking the dropout alignments front and rear - cartridge bearing hubs are sensitive to dropout misalignment.
=8-|
The wheel also is offset more to one side when flipped over with the cassette on non-drive side. Otherwise it seems to be in the center on drive side, when trying to fit some spacers as a feeler gauges between seatstays and chainstays.
11-03-20, 04:49 PM
#15
Full Member
Thread Starter
The actual dropout spacing is 134.5mm (frame advertised as 132.5mm). Dropouts are even less parallel when installing the wheel then.
Last edited by sysrq; 11-03-20 at 06:30 PM.
