Retrofitting Added Functionality to an existing frame
#1
Banned.
Thread Starter
Retrofitting Added Functionality to an existing frame
I have a couple of steel frames that are suitable size and hold future potential for use. I like a kitchen sink bike with a tonne of "fastenability"; threaded braze-on laden frames for attaching stuff to. These steel frames could use a repaint so should it not be possible to walnut hull the frames, drill them in the appropriate spots then weld in pre-made threaded attachment points? I'm looking at adding more water bottle mounts, mid-fork blade mounts, seat stay mounts etc. Maybe tack on some spoke holders as well. While I'm at it, the cantilever braze-ons feature posts which are not allen key replaceable. Those too could be swapped for modern ones. Thoughts?
#2
Randomhead
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Happy Valley, Pennsylvania
Posts: 24,398
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked 3,697 Times
in
2,518 Posts
yes, framebuilders do this all the time
#3
Banned.
Thread Starter
Thanks Unter, glad to hear confirmation. You're into framebuilding and mods, have you any examples of this type of retrofitting work? I'm not a welder, but know how to solder and am reasonable handy. I might try my hand at the retrofitting process in the future on a pooched frame for practice. There is only one guy locally who does any sort of frame work:
https://www.cycleexif.com/lt-wiens-road-bike
https://ltwiens.com/
I'm too frugal to pay cha-ching coin for some minor additions to an old frame and if I were to spend anything substantial it would be on a complete custom one built just-so. One can buy several used bikes for the price of a little welding.
https://www.cycleexif.com/lt-wiens-road-bike
https://ltwiens.com/
I'm too frugal to pay cha-ching coin for some minor additions to an old frame and if I were to spend anything substantial it would be on a complete custom one built just-so. One can buy several used bikes for the price of a little welding.
#4
Randomhead
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Happy Valley, Pennsylvania
Posts: 24,398
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked 3,697 Times
in
2,518 Posts
I'm bad about taking pictures. There really is no difference between adding them to an existing frame and a new frame other than removing paint. On an existing frame I use a torch to burn the paint and then sand the residue off.
Just off the top of my head, I have added cable stops, rack mount bosses, fender eyelets and water bottle bosses to existing frames.
Just off the top of my head, I have added cable stops, rack mount bosses, fender eyelets and water bottle bosses to existing frames.
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: San Jose (Willow Glen) Ca
Posts: 9,846
Bikes: Kirk Custom JK Special, '84 Team Miyata,(dura ace old school) 80?? SR Semi-Pro 600 Arabesque
Mentioned: 106 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2338 Post(s)
Liked 2,822 Times
in
1,541 Posts
Think braze not weld.......ask the guys who really know, but for adding threaded brazeons like for water bottles you might be able to use a MAPP torch.....it did work for me for removing cable guides...... not sure Mapp wold work for day adding threaded eyelets to dropouts for racks and fender mounts
__________________
Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)
Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: South Jersey
Posts: 2,266
Mentioned: 18 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 714 Post(s)
Liked 800 Times
in
475 Posts
A MAPP gas torch and 56% silver will work fine for braze ons, like bottle bosses and cable guides. I still use it occasionally when my propane tank isn't hooked up to my Oxy/Propane setup.(sometimes its on the BBQ grill and I don't feel like going to get it)
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Eugene, Oregon, USA
Posts: 27,547
Mentioned: 217 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18376 Post(s)
Liked 4,511 Times
in
3,353 Posts
#8
Bike Butcher of Portland
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 11,639
Bikes: It's complicated.
Mentioned: 1299 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4682 Post(s)
Liked 5,800 Times
in
2,284 Posts
__________________
If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
#9
Banned.
Thread Starter
#10
Banned.
Thread Starter
#11
Bad example
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Seattle and Reims
Posts: 3,068
Bikes: Peugeot: AO-8 1973, PA-10 1971, PR-10 1973, Sante 1988; Masi Gran Criterium 1975, Stevenson Tourer 1980, Stevenson Criterium 1981, Schwinn Paramount 1972, Rodriguez 2006, Gitane Federal ~1975, Holdsworth Pro, Follis 172 ~1973, Bianchi '62
Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 825 Post(s)
Liked 210 Times
in
96 Posts
I had this done to an old Peugeot.
__________________
Keeping Seattle’s bike shops in business since 1978
Keeping Seattle’s bike shops in business since 1978
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Eugene, Oregon, USA
Posts: 27,547
Mentioned: 217 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18376 Post(s)
Liked 4,511 Times
in
3,353 Posts
I have some mods planned shortly.
I think I'll stick to 25mm or 28mm tires, so no cantis, etc.
However, I've been wondering a bit about seat stay & fork rack mounts (and perhaps dropout mods).
A couple of questions I've been mulling over. First of all, I'd hate to be 500 miles from home and experience a critical failure. So, any solution has to be STRONG & DURABLE.
One question is whether one is better off with those spool shaped attachments like @Aubergine used, vs drilling and brazing the tubes, using water bottle bosses for the rack mounts.
Welding the dropouts?
I think I'll stick to 25mm or 28mm tires, so no cantis, etc.
However, I've been wondering a bit about seat stay & fork rack mounts (and perhaps dropout mods).
A couple of questions I've been mulling over. First of all, I'd hate to be 500 miles from home and experience a critical failure. So, any solution has to be STRONG & DURABLE.
One question is whether one is better off with those spool shaped attachments like @Aubergine used, vs drilling and brazing the tubes, using water bottle bosses for the rack mounts.
Welding the dropouts?
#14
Randomhead
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Happy Valley, Pennsylvania
Posts: 24,398
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked 3,697 Times
in
2,518 Posts
spool mounts are probably stronger than water bottle bosses. I'm not convinced about braze on dropout eyelets for a heavy rack though.
#15
Banned.
Thread Starter
I'd probably prefer to use spool mounts on a fork instead of drilling it for insert threading, although I don't like the look as much. Several mirror imaged pairs along each blade would certainly increase flexibility of attachment o' stuff. Ritchey used to offer a heavy duty rear dropout, and that's about the only thing I do remember about frame parts. If I could find pairs of those that fit, they might be a replacement option on a frame sometime.