Treating a vintage leather saddle..... how much?
10-05-20, 07:21 PM
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Treating a vintage leather saddle..... how much?
I recently acquired an older Perjohn saddle that I’ll be putting on a vintage Peugeot. The saddle was in ok condition as I received it but clearly needed some treatment as the leather was cracking in some spots.
I’ve been applying Brooks Proofide throughout the afternoon and the saddle seems to absorb it within minutes. How many times are needed until it has adequate coverage? Until it stops soaking in so quickly ?
I’ve been applying Brooks Proofide throughout the afternoon and the saddle seems to absorb it within minutes. How many times are needed until it has adequate coverage? Until it stops soaking in so quickly ?
10-06-20, 05:18 AM
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I think you have probably already over done it. The proof hide isn’t going to fix the cracks or really restore the leather from being left to dry out, but it will protect it from further damage. But you don’t need a lot for that.
Last edited by DOS; 10-06-20 at 06:35 AM.
10-06-20, 06:28 AM
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Search for the term "proofide" and you will get nearly as many opinions as with chain lube. I would hold off until you get some time in the saddle and be very careful with tensioning as you don't want to pull the leather through the rivets.
10-06-20, 10:26 AM
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It did need tension added as the bracket was wobbling loose. I only applied enough tension to stop the looseness and then a couple turns more.
10-06-20, 11:44 AM
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If you actually did a couple of full turns past the point in which the bracket was snug, I will venture to guess you tightened it way too much.
10-06-20, 11:45 AM
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10-06-20, 11:48 AM
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Ah, okay, that sounds better. Be careful tightening it, as it can destroy the seat and create a ridge at the top. It can also tear the leather, especially on an older seat.
10-06-20, 12:08 PM
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Here's my 2 cents:
New leather saddles will get thin applications of leather preservative/ waterproofing until the leather has an even tone.
Old dry leather will get thin applications of LP/W until the saddle starts to allow buildup on the outside of the leather.
It's true that cracking leather is the beginning of the end of a leather saddle. The cracks are where the collagen fibers have failed, further stressing the remainder. These fibers chafe against each other while the leather is in use, and the better LPs will lubricate them a little bit. Too much, like neatsfoot oil, will make the saddle too soft. The rider then uses the tension bolt and stretches the saddle out of shape.
New leather saddles will get thin applications of leather preservative/ waterproofing until the leather has an even tone.
Old dry leather will get thin applications of LP/W until the saddle starts to allow buildup on the outside of the leather.
It's true that cracking leather is the beginning of the end of a leather saddle. The cracks are where the collagen fibers have failed, further stressing the remainder. These fibers chafe against each other while the leather is in use, and the better LPs will lubricate them a little bit. Too much, like neatsfoot oil, will make the saddle too soft. The rider then uses the tension bolt and stretches the saddle out of shape.
10-06-20, 12:38 PM
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Thanks for the reminder, it's about time my B-17 got some TLC.
Unlike neatsfoot oil or some other treatments, I'm not sure it's possible to put too much Proofide on a leather saddle. I expect a thin layer will be soaked up within 10-15 minutes when it's warm. If I put some on and it's disappeared by the time I get to the other end of the saddle, I'll apply some more. After 15-30 minutes, whatever's left will get wiped off.
Unlike neatsfoot oil or some other treatments, I'm not sure it's possible to put too much Proofide on a leather saddle. I expect a thin layer will be soaked up within 10-15 minutes when it's warm. If I put some on and it's disappeared by the time I get to the other end of the saddle, I'll apply some more. After 15-30 minutes, whatever's left will get wiped off.
