Fast & Light Upright- Post your Photo's & Ideas
#102
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I Can't find a picture of my 69 crash-damaged-straightened PX-10 with a short stem and Nitto North Roads. Pretty heavy CX22 rims on 600 hubs, OE drive train and brakes, with little TeKtro levers. That thing was fast and I wish I could have kept it. Room for 32s.
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I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs.
I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs.
#103
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There's a 1971 Super Course under here (bought on the cheap partly because of abysmal paint). It would be a lighter take on a Sports/Sprite, if not for the wild idea to build with a modern-ish 3-speed Sturmey Archer hub that accepts a 9-speed cassette. It's a blast to ride.
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#104
Bikes are okay, I guess.
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Trek 510 (full Ishiwata) as a city build. Fairly light, very upright and faster than I am.
#105
Me duelen las nalgas
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This photo from a 2013 post to this thread reminds me of a maybe-someday project I have in mind for a Centurion Ironman.
I have a Univega Via Carisma set up with Nitto albatross swept bar and bar-end shifters. But the bike frame is a bit heavy for such a lightweight handlebar. I'm thinking of putting a heavier steel swept bar on the Univega, since it's already over 30 lbs, and saving the lovely Nitto aluminum bar for a lighter frame. Ideally it would work best with a frame slightly too large for me -- my Univega is a 60cm, I think, and usually I ride 56-58cm road bikes. I was too stretched out on the Univega with flat bars, but riser and swept bars made it much more comfortable.
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My early '90s Univega Via Carisma with Nitto albatross bars. The bike has been through several makeovers: with and without fenders; saddle swaps; Continental SpeedRides to Conti Sport Contact and back again. Weighs about 30 lbs. I'd like a similar setup with a steel road bike frame to get the weight down to 25 lbs.
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Not my Ironman or photo -- borrowed from an earlier post to this thread.
I have a Univega Via Carisma set up with Nitto albatross swept bar and bar-end shifters. But the bike frame is a bit heavy for such a lightweight handlebar. I'm thinking of putting a heavier steel swept bar on the Univega, since it's already over 30 lbs, and saving the lovely Nitto aluminum bar for a lighter frame. Ideally it would work best with a frame slightly too large for me -- my Univega is a 60cm, I think, and usually I ride 56-58cm road bikes. I was too stretched out on the Univega with flat bars, but riser and swept bars made it much more comfortable.
*
My early '90s Univega Via Carisma with Nitto albatross bars. The bike has been through several makeovers: with and without fenders; saddle swaps; Continental SpeedRides to Conti Sport Contact and back again. Weighs about 30 lbs. I'd like a similar setup with a steel road bike frame to get the weight down to 25 lbs.
*
Not my Ironman or photo -- borrowed from an earlier post to this thread.
#106
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1987 Mercian Pro, 1985 Shogun 500, 197? Falcon San Remo, 1972 Peugeot PX-10, 1972 Schwinn Paramount P13-9, 1971 Peugeot PX-10, 1971 Raleigh International, 1970 Raleigh Professional Mark I
Curator/Team Mechanic: 2016 Dawes Streetfighter, 1984 Lotus Eclair, 1975 Motobecane Jubile Mixte, 1974 Raleigh Sports, 1973 Free Spirit Ted Williams, 1972 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Philips Sport
1987 Mercian Pro, 1985 Shogun 500, 197? Falcon San Remo, 1972 Peugeot PX-10, 1972 Schwinn Paramount P13-9, 1971 Peugeot PX-10, 1971 Raleigh International, 1970 Raleigh Professional Mark I
Curator/Team Mechanic: 2016 Dawes Streetfighter, 1984 Lotus Eclair, 1975 Motobecane Jubile Mixte, 1974 Raleigh Sports, 1973 Free Spirit Ted Williams, 1972 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Philips Sport
#107
Senior Member
Raleigh Technium
Light and fast.
Light and fast.
#108
Not lost wanderer.
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I have previously posted my Fuji, but here is my 76 Raleigh Grand Prix and my 73 Raleigh SuperCourse
Riser stem and high bars led to a wobbly front end. Bike is too small
Much better bike mostly same setup dingle speed from the 76 Grand Prix
Riser stem and high bars led to a wobbly front end. Bike is too small
Much better bike mostly same setup dingle speed from the 76 Grand Prix
#111
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Funny to see this thread pop up, I was digging around some older threads and found this one last week when I was looking for some inspiration.
Once the snow is gone and the local MUP becomes passable again, I think my fixed gear Grand Jubile might get some kind of upright bars.
The choices available are killing me though!
Once the snow is gone and the local MUP becomes passable again, I think my fixed gear Grand Jubile might get some kind of upright bars.
The choices available are killing me though!
#112
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I do have a couple of options though.
Which would you put upright bars on?
This one?
Or this one:
Which would you put upright bars on?
This one?
Or this one:
#113
Shifting is fun!
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Since I have gotten used to, and discovered the advantages of drop bars, I haven't built any upright bikes. The last one without drop bars was this Raleigh, and the fact that I only have an NDS picture is a testament to how long ago that was. A very "zippy" bike, but tiring on longer rides. Great for a summer evening dash around the countryside.
And "upright" may not be altogether correct, either:
And "upright" may not be altogether correct, either:
#114
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Shogun 600 upright
19.5 pounds without bag and decaleur
I picked up this bike a year ago in December. Found the mustache bars at the Brazen Dropouts that same year. Switched the wheels to 700, and made a questionable decision about a matchy handlebar bag. It totes what I need to have on the bike with me. I agree with the pervious statements about being torn between go fast and upright posture. On one fall ride I changed my route from bike path to rural road to take advantage of tree windbreaks
I do have a fondness for Japanese steel.
As Found
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Wabi-Sabi
Wabi-Sabi
#115
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This bike was purchased a few months ago as a fame and fork. I bought it because I wanted to build a city bike from an obscure maker using all French parts . One day as I was cruising Craig’s list I saw this and knew right away it was the right bike for me. The owner was a bike guy and had purchased it some time ago and rode it as a single speed. There is a noticeable dent in the top tube that would probably keep it from ever bringing top dollar but at $50 . I couldn’t say no.
I took it home and scoured my parts bin for suitable bits and here is the result. Weight as shown 24.5 lb.
Mfg. Phillippe
Model Haute Gamme Fabrication Pro 7
Frame/fork Columbus tubing , chrome plated and painted over.
Cranks Strong light
Pedals Lyotard
Rear derailleur Sachs Centaur
Shifters Simplex
Hubs Campi
Rims Ambrosia 19
Tires 700 x 25
Brakes Crane creek dual pivot
Stem Technomic
Bars Cycle Pro 4” riser
Seat post SR
Saddle Performace
In addition to the projects I am always doing for the Bike Exchange, I have a number of Personal bikes that are similar to this one , though none are so high spec. I stopped riding drop bar bikes when my back complained loud enough and I much prefer the upright riding style. My average ride is to the YMCA and back, about 6 miles, and this configuration suits me fine.
I took it home and scoured my parts bin for suitable bits and here is the result. Weight as shown 24.5 lb.
Mfg. Phillippe
Model Haute Gamme Fabrication Pro 7
Frame/fork Columbus tubing , chrome plated and painted over.
Cranks Strong light
Pedals Lyotard
Rear derailleur Sachs Centaur
Shifters Simplex
Hubs Campi
Rims Ambrosia 19
Tires 700 x 25
Brakes Crane creek dual pivot
Stem Technomic
Bars Cycle Pro 4” riser
Seat post SR
Saddle Performace
In addition to the projects I am always doing for the Bike Exchange, I have a number of Personal bikes that are similar to this one , though none are so high spec. I stopped riding drop bar bikes when my back complained loud enough and I much prefer the upright riding style. My average ride is to the YMCA and back, about 6 miles, and this configuration suits me fine.
Last edited by capnjonny; 02-12-20 at 08:14 PM.
#116
Newbie
I think this fits the category.
It's a work in progress. I'd like to change the shifter set up. I like the ratchet of the Suntour thumb shifters, but I don't like how high they sit above the grip. Isn't there a company that sells a clamp where you can attach a down tube shifter to it? I'm looking at the Schwinn Peloton in post #93.
I also have thoughts of going to a riser stem.
Any and all compliments, criticisms are welcome.
Thanks
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#117
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https://www.paulcomp.com/product-cat...rain/shifting/
They're pricey, though.
#118
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Oh, add mudguards.
Last edited by clubman; 06-19-21 at 05:58 PM.
#119
Newbie
Yes to fenders. I went medium with tire width choice as to the possibility of fenders.
As I look at it more, I'm thinking no to the riser stem.
Thanks
#120
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#121
Newbie
Nice looking bike.
I've often thought about how many gears do I need for this bike. Internal geared hub would probably suit my needs. But...
I'm weird. Campagnolo high flange hubs are the only thing that work me.
Wait a minute.... I think the cats are having a disagreement.
I've often thought about how many gears do I need for this bike. Internal geared hub would probably suit my needs. But...
I'm weird. Campagnolo high flange hubs are the only thing that work me.
Wait a minute.... I think the cats are having a disagreement.
#123
framebuilder
As a frame builder, I've studied the geometries of upright "north road" handlebar bikes a lot. The Dutch of course have long ago figured it out. Americans not so much. My wife really wanted a very light weight version after trying mine out. I made her one this year using very light steel tubing with 650B tires. Here is what you need to know if you want to convert from drop handlebars to upright north road bars. Some (many actually) frames won't convert very well. As you sit more upright, your butt needs to go back so your position remains natural. In addition, north road handlebars come back towards you from the stem instead of further away from you like reaching the brake levers on drop bars. This combination means 2 things.. 1st it is very preferable to have a swallow seat angle of less than 72º . And the top tube needs to be longer like at least 58 cm in the middle sizes. It is nearly impossible to be comfortable on a converted racing frame.
Since I was making my wife's bike from scratch, I could design it anyway I wanted. I used much lighter .7/.4/.7mm main tubes. Production frames usually use .9/.6/.9 or heavier because they don't know how fat a customer might be. The seat and head tube angles were a parallel 71º. The top tube was 57 cm long. I forget the seat tube length because I was using lugs that sloped the top tube 3º. I knew it would fit her because I started out the process by finding he position on a fitting bike. In addition I lowered the bottom bracket height (around 260mm) because she isn't going to be pedaling through corners with her 170mm cranks. This makes putting your not-clipped-in foot down easier at a lower height. Of course she loves the finished product. Here are some pictures of her frame in front of mine right after we rode today
.
Since I was making my wife's bike from scratch, I could design it anyway I wanted. I used much lighter .7/.4/.7mm main tubes. Production frames usually use .9/.6/.9 or heavier because they don't know how fat a customer might be. The seat and head tube angles were a parallel 71º. The top tube was 57 cm long. I forget the seat tube length because I was using lugs that sloped the top tube 3º. I knew it would fit her because I started out the process by finding he position on a fitting bike. In addition I lowered the bottom bracket height (around 260mm) because she isn't going to be pedaling through corners with her 170mm cranks. This makes putting your not-clipped-in foot down easier at a lower height. Of course she loves the finished product. Here are some pictures of her frame in front of mine right after we rode today
.
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#124
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Been off and on BF recently due to visiting relatives, my old computer dying, getting an even older computer working as a temp while I got a new one, old monitor promptly died, etc etc. Just acquired a new ride, intended posting it in the "bonded frame" thread, but really fits better here. Back Story: I'm just completing my 1st year as an octogenarian and recently developed a neck problem which prevents raising my head enough to see where I'm going if riding a drop bar bike. Hope it's temporary, but I do have few upright riders. Problem is, 2 of them are in Florida. I was scanning NorthWest CL ads and ran across this beauty at a low price. Located in a remote location. Town of Anacortes, WA. This is an island in Puget Sound right next to the island my Sister in Law lives on, and they are connected by a bridge. A lifelong cyclist, facing the end of his riding days had put together a light, fast, upright ride to see him out. A few phone calls and texts arranged a visit with my in-laws and pickup of the bike.
He had started with a good 1988 Vitus 979 frame with its original Shimano 600 brakes, crankset, derailleurs, used an Aluminum fork from a 1996 Litespeed with Record headset, Velo orange bar, small Brooks Professional saddle, Dura Ace hubbed wheelset and the result is quite pleasing. Has a great ride feel, almost no inertia, so can really accelerate. Sadly, seller has to use a walker now and doesn't appear to have been able to ride it much. He and his wife were nice folks and we chatted bikes a while. Most of us will face this end of riding moment at some point and this bike helps make those last rides memorable. Don edit, accidentally posted without pics
He had started with a good 1988 Vitus 979 frame with its original Shimano 600 brakes, crankset, derailleurs, used an Aluminum fork from a 1996 Litespeed with Record headset, Velo orange bar, small Brooks Professional saddle, Dura Ace hubbed wheelset and the result is quite pleasing. Has a great ride feel, almost no inertia, so can really accelerate. Sadly, seller has to use a walker now and doesn't appear to have been able to ride it much. He and his wife were nice folks and we chatted bikes a while. Most of us will face this end of riding moment at some point and this bike helps make those last rides memorable. Don edit, accidentally posted without pics
Last edited by ollo_ollo; 06-20-21 at 02:06 PM. Reason: finish post. add few more pics
#125
Cheerfully low end
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Ok, so not the prettiest and it’s a mutt of vintage parts with new saddle, pedals and cockpit. The wrapped touring bars allow good riding positions so you can have decent speed. The forward bends are great both seated and standing.
Otto
Otto