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Drivetrain upgrade/ compatibility quesitons

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Old 05-17-21, 07:09 PM
  #1  
dwang040
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Drivetrain upgrade/ compatibility quesitons

I currently have a Cannondale Trail 5 and at the time, I didn't know too much about mountain bikes in general but after a few months of riding it, I've been wondering about a potential drivetrain upgrade. The drivetrain setup on the bike currently is a 30t chainring, Microshift Advent X 10spd 11-48t cassette. One thing that I've noticed is that I would like some more high end speed. I find myself having the pedal really fast to pick up speed with the 30x11 gearing. Was thinking of ways that I could get some higher top end while still preserving that low ratio (30x40/ 30x48) for mountain climbing. Currently, the options that I've thought of are:


1. Get the Shimano Deore M5100 drivetrain set. This will give me a 11spd 11-51t cassette which would allow me to upgrade to a 32t chainring for that higher flat ground speed while also maintaining a similar ratio as my current setup (32x51 vs 30x48). Not sure if 34t would be too much, but the ratio of 34x51 would still be between 30x40 and 30x48? I believe the cassette will work since it's a HG hub, but for the crankset, I'm not sure if a Shimano threaded BB or spindle will fit. I couldn't find any numbers on Cannondale's website and wasn't sure if I could just take out the cartridge BB and replace it with the Shimano BB + crankset.


2. Wheels/ hub changes? My current wheelset uses a HG hub, which I've recently learned means I have no way of getting a gear lower than 11t. I also do not believe it's possible to change the hub since I can't find any info about it for the Shimano FH-TX505-8. Tbh, the more I look into it, I feel like a good gearing for me would be 32t chainring with a 9x51/52t system but again, that would require a new wheelset. I've looked at wheel options but it doesn't seem promising as the Trial 5 uses QR, and the only rim set that I've found so far are the WTB i23 and the Stans S1 Crest, both using HG freehub. Don't see any QR wheels with microspline or XD.


Personally, I think option 1 is the way to go (it would also be much cheaper too assuming there were wheels available) but yeah, I'm not sure if there is a better option available in this case or if there are any compatibility issues with swapping to the Deore M5100 set. Please lmk if you have any suggestions or info that I could use.


Thanks!
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Old 05-17-21, 07:58 PM
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Did you just consider getting a new front chainring? Maybe it has a max front chainring size but you might be able to get a 32 on there which will help just check BCD and ideally find something that is narrow-wide and you are set. I wouldn't waste time going to a tiny 10t cog as those aren't very durable and plus the wheels on the bike are QR so it is becoming quite an outdated standard. Heck I am having a time trying to find a non-boost fork for a project I am fine with 15x100 thru axle I just don't need boost and have some specific needs.

Honestly I wouldn't spend money on a new drivetrain at least on that bike. Ride the heck out of it and keep it going till you can buy the bike that better suits your needs.
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Old 05-17-21, 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by veganbikes
Did you just consider getting a new front chainring? Maybe it has a max front chainring size but you might be able to get a 32 on there...
I thought about a 32t but ultimately, have no idea if it would affect me much losing the gearing of a 30x48 (hence why a 51t would help since if I'm not mistaken, the gearing for a 30x48 is the same as a 32x51). I guess this is a good excuse of "just get stronger."

Originally Posted by veganbikes
QR so it is becoming quite an outdated standard
I wish I did more research on this. The bike is still pretty new as I've only been riding it for a few months, but with my lack of knowledge in bike parts, I didn't really think too much about it at the time. Looking back, I probably should have gone for the Trail 4 or something else with the newer standards. With the trail 4, I would have gotten an air fork to start with, tapered headtube, and through axel vs QR. But I guess now I know should I even need to completely go to a new bike in the future.
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Old 05-18-21, 07:23 AM
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The Trail 4 would be a step backwards to older standards and cheaper components. Something with newer standards willl have thru axles and there won't be a front derailleur.
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Old 05-18-21, 07:40 AM
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Originally Posted by prj71
The Trail 4 would be a step backwards to older standards and cheaper components. Something with newer standards willl have thru axles and there won't be a front derailleur.
Yeah, not sure why the Trail SL 4 does that, but I should have been clearer. I meant the Trail SE 4. the SE 4 one is running 15x110f and 12x148r thru axle.
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Old 05-20-21, 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by dwang040
I thought about a 32t but ultimately, have no idea if it would affect me much losing the gearing of a 30x48 (hence why a 51t would help since if I'm not mistaken, the gearing for a 30x48 is the same as a 32x51). I guess this is a good excuse of "just get stronger."


I wish I did more research on this. The bike is still pretty new as I've only been riding it for a few months, but with my lack of knowledge in bike parts, I didn't really think too much about it at the time. Looking back, I probably should have gone for the Trail 4 or something else with the newer standards. With the trail 4, I would have gotten an air fork to start with, tapered headtube, and through axel vs QR. But I guess now I know should I even need to completely go to a new bike in the future.
It would be an easier change and in the end If it doesn't work go back to 30! You are going to be out an extra chain (which would be a little longer and could be reused on the 30 by removing as many links as need) and a chainring not a bad deal.

It happens people sometimes go and just buy it and some people agonize for a long time on components. I spend a long time on stuff but sometimes still make mistakes but then again I am building from frame up most of the time. I actually just made a fork error on a new bike that wasn't from the ground up because I am replacing another fork and my dumbass assumed they used a 650b fork for 650b tires but ended up they were using 29er for it and because they aren't making bikes for people like me they are making bikes for people who have money and don't care so much about specific components and I didn't bother to really do enough research into the fork enough to get the right standards and such but didn't check axle to crown which would have been important. However it is fine, luckily I only bought a Fox Factory fork and can't return it so if anyone needs a 100mm travel 650b fork with Kashima and 15x100TA I gotchu dawg.

It can be tough navigating these days as manufacturers are making component changes all the time because they can't get stuff and of course because it is hard to test ride bikes and really know them but now you know a little more and will learn a lot more from the current bike and will end up with something pretty awesome down the line. I learned a lot from my MTB build and now am armed with more knowledge should I wish to change stuff, more to the point now I just want these because I am stupid and my XT brakes work just fine but these are shineeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeey and super exclusive (waiting an entire year for brakes not because of pandemic issues is pretty crazy and the cost is redonkulous). Really the next bike I just want something full squish so I have something to compare and contrast to my hardtail and full rigid vintage style bike.
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