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Hubba

Old 05-29-15, 06:00 PM
  #1  
Soil_Sampler
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Hubba


Milano Fixed Archive » Bushidocomp X TBTW Ragnarök
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Bushi...041268?fref=ts
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Old 05-29-15, 06:08 PM
  #2  
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Hubba Hubba
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Old 05-29-15, 06:10 PM
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Those hubs look incredible
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Old 05-29-15, 07:43 PM
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pretty. but that's it.
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Old 05-29-15, 07:50 PM
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looks like good machining, but generally boring. who uses bolt on cogs these days anyway?
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Old 05-29-15, 09:50 PM
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It's pretty hard to top your prior hub porn submission w/ curtis odom hubs.
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Old 05-30-15, 04:44 AM
  #7  
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ISO cog

Originally Posted by Mumonkan View Post
who uses bolt on cogs these days anyway?
I have a couple.

Pretty versatile, you can easily change chainline,OLD or run a double cog and chainring setup.

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Old 06-01-15, 08:58 PM
  #8  
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Meh. I like Phils better.
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Old 06-02-15, 04:54 AM
  #9  
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Hub Porn

Might be time for a Hub Porn viewers poll?
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Old 06-02-15, 05:25 AM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by Soil_Sampler View Post
Pretty versatile, you can easily change chainline,OLD or run a double cog and chainring setup.

pardon my ignorance, but wouldnt this method apply to any SS hub?
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Old 06-02-15, 06:46 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Mumonkan View Post
pardon my ignorance, but wouldnt this method apply to any SS hub?
Because of the lockring thread, you can only adjust the chainline by a couple millimeters before you lose lockring engagement.
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Old 06-02-15, 07:34 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by JohnDThompson View Post
Because of the lockring thread, you can only adjust the chainline by a couple millimeters before you lose lockring engagement.
I don't understand. How does this in any way affect lockring thread engagement ? It's not like you are spacing the cog itself in any way.
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Old 06-02-15, 01:22 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by TejanoTrackie View Post
I don't understand. How does this in any way affect lockring thread engagement ? It's not like you are spacing the cog itself in any way.
If you put a 5mm -- or even 10mm -- spacer behind your threaded cog as were offered as examples with the bolt-on cog system above, the cog overhangs the lockring thread and prevents full engagement.
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Old 06-02-15, 01:43 PM
  #14  
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the picture above is putting spacers on the axle.
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Old 06-02-15, 01:56 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Mumonkan View Post
the picture above is putting spacers on the axle.
Because it is a 100mm front MTB hub that needs to be spaced to fit rear ends & adjusted for chainlines. And...am I incorrect in thinking wheels using such hubs need to be dished?

@JohnDThompson...weren't you part of a company custom-building a very nice version of these kinds of hubs?

Last edited by IAmSam; 06-02-15 at 02:03 PM. Reason: oops
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Old 06-02-15, 06:04 PM
  #16  
Soil_Sampler
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adjustable

You can space the cog on an SS hub but, you are probably going to need a threaded lockring clamp to keep the cog from moving.



Nice version hub...
https://www.elegantwheels.net/6-BOLT-ISO-HUB.html

Last edited by Soil_Sampler; 06-04-15 at 05:37 PM. Reason: new linkage...
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Old 06-03-15, 12:29 AM
  #17  
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Hi everyone,
this hub is an italian cnc-made hub and it's very good.
i'd like to know why you think is a bad solution the ISO system.
Did you ever know anyone with a ruined cog-thread on a brakeless fixed bike? this solution prevents that.
i personally use ISO on each and every wheel.

Furthermore, both bushido (fixkin) hubs, and my personal solution are far more better than the classic shimano XT, because of the sealed bearings and ease of installation.

Last edited by BobsHaero; 06-03-15 at 03:09 AM.
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Old 06-03-15, 03:36 AM
  #18  
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^noone said this was a bad solution for anything.

and no, i dont know anyone who has ruined the threads on a hub, i dont associate myself with idiots

Originally Posted by Soil_Sampler View Post
thats cool, obviously you cant do that with a regular hub

what im saying is that the first picture is showing how to adjust the chainline using axle spacers, pretty sure you can do that on a regular fixed or ss hub too

Last edited by Mumonkan; 06-03-15 at 03:39 AM.
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Old 06-03-15, 04:37 AM
  #19  
Soil_Sampler
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regular hub...

Originally Posted by Mumonkan View Post
what im saying is that the first picture is showing how to adjust the chainline using axle spacers,
pretty sure you can do that on a regular fixed or ss hub too
A few, not all.

And not with ease and options of this hub.
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Old 06-04-15, 06:03 AM
  #20  
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well @Mumonkan you said "who still use a ISO hub nowadays" like there's something not good with that kind of hubs.

I started doing some axles that can convert in matter of seconds some kind of hubs (using an mtb standard, so you can convert cheap or high-end-hubs no matter what),
and i did this to overcome the side effects of converting XTs (balls and cones, no long life, bad rolling capabilities),
and i managed to do that in a cheap but sturdy way.

i am always in search of problems you people find on these kind of hubs to overcome the problems i can not see.

in Italy (where i live) ISO is highly regarded as the "way to go", because of no side effects and much more sturdiness/reliability.

I'd leave you with this thinking:
a good engineered system is a system that prevents idiots to hurt themselves.
or, as i'm used to say, ."The best engineered system is the one which excludes the best the user errors."


technically speaking i could demonstrate to you that iso is superior to threaded from a engineering point of view in terms of pure mechanical coupling, for what it's worth.

i highly appriciate any suggestion and thinking about this to improve my product.
don't wanna sell anything but for more infos on my axles you can check this page: https://www.facebook.com/HaeroComp
or on this forum italian's cousin, fixedforum.it, by my same username.
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Old 06-04-15, 06:53 AM
  #21  
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The ISO system is very nice, but also expensive. I you want a reliable system with a modest pricetag, I've found the Miche system to work very well. I installed the carrier with red loctite, so it's now a permanent part of the hub, and will not unscrew even w/o the lockring being tight. The sole purpose of the lockring is to secure the splined cogs on the carrier, and it only has to be snug tight, since there is no direct loading on it. Also, the cogs are completely flat and symmetric, so that you can can double their life by reversing them when they wear out on one side.

Miche track cogs & cog carrier | Retrogression

Of course, it's not idiot-proof, so it does lack that feature.
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Old 06-04-15, 09:48 AM
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my iso hub is cheaper or as expensive as a rear miche primato hub, but i repeat, not here to sell or promote my thing, just wanted to assure you that is possible to do things in a different way, and collect any suggestion or critic you find.

i think that riding in different places with different people and different culture gives slightly different outcomes and to collect every one is a important thing to do, and i'm here for this particular reason.
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Old 06-04-15, 05:45 PM
  #23  
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Molto bene.

Originally Posted by BobsHaero View Post
Buona fortuna!
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Old 06-05-15, 12:32 PM
  #24  
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After having experienced bolt on cogs solutions first hand, it baffles me anyone still uses a threaded system from a regular track hub. The ISO bolt-on, from a purely objective point of view, seems far superior.

But that's just me
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Old 06-05-15, 01:14 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by tuxxdk View Post
After having experienced bolt on cogs solutions first hand, it baffles me anyone still uses a threaded system from a regular track hub. The ISO bolt-on, from a purely objective point of view, seems far superior.

But that's just me
Have you ever raced on the track and had to quickly change the cog to regear ? Which system do you think can be changed faster ?

Just one of many practical issues to consider here.
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