Loaded touring on Vintage bike
#26
Senior Member
A little outside the age range of the original thread, but...
I have to say that this thread has made me miss my 1990 Canondale to the point I have considered trying to get it back from my daughter who has used it as a commuter, but isn't currently. I don't want to on the chance that she might use again.
I have actually been looking at eBay and lusting after 1990 105SC 7 speed components. To me that was a real sweet spot in the development of bike tech. Great looking, but still supremely functional stuff. I'd probably be a sucker for someone selling a new old stock group set like what was on my 1990 Crit bike and might over pay for one. I really loved that bike and those components. I may start collecting parts to build up another one (I have a similar vintage Canondale road race frame in the shed collecting dust that I think would suit my UL touring style ok).
I have to say that this thread has made me miss my 1990 Canondale to the point I have considered trying to get it back from my daughter who has used it as a commuter, but isn't currently. I don't want to on the chance that she might use again.
I have actually been looking at eBay and lusting after 1990 105SC 7 speed components. To me that was a real sweet spot in the development of bike tech. Great looking, but still supremely functional stuff. I'd probably be a sucker for someone selling a new old stock group set like what was on my 1990 Crit bike and might over pay for one. I really loved that bike and those components. I may start collecting parts to build up another one (I have a similar vintage Canondale road race frame in the shed collecting dust that I think would suit my UL touring style ok).
Last edited by staehpj1; 08-15-19 at 06:15 AM.
#27
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Bikes: 1984 Miyata 1000, 1984 Univega Specialissima (frame), 1993 Miyata 1000LT, 1987 Raleigh Ventura, 1935 Golden Sunbeam, Early '50s Columbia Bomber
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I have a 1985 Miyata 1000, but am building my own touring frame and will transfer the parts from the Miyata to my frame once it is done (almost there!). My biggest concern is the rear hub being freewheel and lack of proper axle support. On tours in the past I have bent axles, so this I am familiar with, and am trying to convince myself to build new wheels using cassette hubs. I just have a good selection of vintage parts that I feel wasteful not using them.
#28
Junior Member
1982 Trek 720, near Daytona Beach, 2019.
#29
Senior Member
Thread Starter
"Could riding style be a factor?"
On the old mountain bikes, no question it was a matter of beating the heck out of the thing. Cassettes were not a thing quite yet. On the touring bike, the bent axles came from 40 pounds of gear and 200 lbs of rider all on the back wheel. No big deal to replace, however should the axle fail completely out in the middle of the pan handle of TX, that will be a problem.
Having a thing for old bike stuff is becoming less practical every day I think about this, and I don't want to give it up! Looks like the smart thing to do is go cassette.
On the old mountain bikes, no question it was a matter of beating the heck out of the thing. Cassettes were not a thing quite yet. On the touring bike, the bent axles came from 40 pounds of gear and 200 lbs of rider all on the back wheel. No big deal to replace, however should the axle fail completely out in the middle of the pan handle of TX, that will be a problem.
Having a thing for old bike stuff is becoming less practical every day I think about this, and I don't want to give it up! Looks like the smart thing to do is go cassette.
#30
Senior Member
The CCM Cost $15 and nearly $100 to make it roll. Tossed the wheels into the recycle bin.
Old frames are cool, sometimes. Old parts may not be reliable, are you a good mechanic?
Many a left over 8 or 9 speed part can be had at bargin basement prices. = A $200 xtr derailleur is about $60 now, if you like 9 speed stuff. With 12 speeds on the market now, 10speed stuff can be had for 50% or 63% off
I like to fly Interjet to central america, they like to pile bags on top of my bike, the lbs in Chajul dont have a lot of modern parts. Thus my interest in old 26ers.
Modern bikes have improved considerable in the last 10 years.
Last edited by chrisx; 08-15-19 at 08:52 PM.
#31
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Bikes: 1984 Miyata 1000, 1984 Univega Specialissima (frame), 1993 Miyata 1000LT, 1987 Raleigh Ventura, 1935 Golden Sunbeam, Early '50s Columbia Bomber
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I don't typically stray too far from my home base at this point so if a critical part gives up the ghost, my wife can generally get a replacement to me. Even if I were to get farther from home, just about anything can be overnighted. And a lot of things (e.g., wheels, tires, brake shoes) can still be gotten from a bike shop on the road.
I just really enjoy riding vintage bikes and for the most part, I like to keep them as original as possible. It's worth it to me to do what I have to in order to make that practical. I probably only have about another 10-15 years of riding left in me anyway and my supply of stuff should hold out that long...
#32
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Meant to say, you need at least 36 spokes for the rear wheel, more if possible. That extra weight, especially hauling water, just punishes the rear wheel. I'm on an old Exage hub now, with 36 spokes, which feels adequate, but I plan to look into a better wheel at some point.
#33
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My wife on her '85 ST400
Just the bike
My '83 Trek 720
Our tent and make shift bike garage.
We both daily ride and tour on our old bikes. The tourers are great for shopping and errands in addition to longer trips. I have an embarrassing number of vintage touring bikes from Trek, Cannondale, and Miyata. I like the companies that make their own bikes. Cannondale ST's and the later 80's Miyata's are hella Stout and great for heavier loads. The touring Treks from '83 and '4 have the classic touring geometry with gourmet tubing feel. A little more particular on total load weight and distribution but very rewarding to get right. A classic caddy ride.
Based on a Trek '83 720, '84 620, and '84 520, an '84 Miyata 610, and '91 1000LT, And an '84 Cannondale ST500 and a '90 ST600.
Last edited by Chr0m0ly; 11-25-19 at 12:24 AM.
#34
Senior Member
Back in '80, my only 1000+ mile 'tour' was very minimal in forms of gear. Just two changes of clothes and a nylon windbreaker in a canvas drawstring duffle bag, bungied to my Pletscher rear rack. No tent, pad or sleeping bag. No cooking gear, and just a couple pouches of instant oatmeal. Other food was sourced on the way.
Bike? 1975 Fuji S-10S with stock 39/51 chainrings, and a 14-24 five-speed freewheel. Yes, my wheelset was custom-built by me, using Phil Wood 36/36 freewheel hubs, narrow clincher rims, and butted stainless spokes. Tires were Schwinn Super Record 27x1-1/8 inflated to 95/105.
Back then I only weighed about 140, and was carrying less than ten pounds on the rack. My seat-mounted toolbag, however, weighed almost as much! Two spare tubes, patch kit, tire gauge, 6mm hex key, two each flat and Phillips screwdrivers (one regular, one small of each), a cut-down 10" adjustable wrench, freewheel tool, spoke wrench, chain breaker...and of course my Flippy Flyer (cloth 'Frisbee' sort of thing).
Bike? 1975 Fuji S-10S with stock 39/51 chainrings, and a 14-24 five-speed freewheel. Yes, my wheelset was custom-built by me, using Phil Wood 36/36 freewheel hubs, narrow clincher rims, and butted stainless spokes. Tires were Schwinn Super Record 27x1-1/8 inflated to 95/105.
Back then I only weighed about 140, and was carrying less than ten pounds on the rack. My seat-mounted toolbag, however, weighed almost as much! Two spare tubes, patch kit, tire gauge, 6mm hex key, two each flat and Phillips screwdrivers (one regular, one small of each), a cut-down 10" adjustable wrench, freewheel tool, spoke wrench, chain breaker...and of course my Flippy Flyer (cloth 'Frisbee' sort of thing).
#35
Macro Geek
If something were to happen to my "new" touring bike (which I bought 15 years ago), I would hesitate to substitute my "vintage" 1985 Miyata. My new bike is a better fit. I don't find the Miyata as comfortable for all-day riding, loaded or unloaded. I still take out the Miyata for local rides and grocery shopping. But when I go out longer, the Miyata stays in the shed.
During my 34 years of riding the Miyata, many components have worn out, but I have never made an issue of replacing them with original parts. Some components are the originals, including the handlebars, brakes, brake levers, and seat post. The hubs are Campagnolo from 1989, the stem is Look from 1990, the wheels are Mavic from 1992 or 1993, the headset is Shimano from 1998, the drive train is Shimano from around 2001, the seat is Brooks from around 2010, and so on. I haven't repainted the frame, so it's still the original steely blue.
During my 34 years of riding the Miyata, many components have worn out, but I have never made an issue of replacing them with original parts. Some components are the originals, including the handlebars, brakes, brake levers, and seat post. The hubs are Campagnolo from 1989, the stem is Look from 1990, the wheels are Mavic from 1992 or 1993, the headset is Shimano from 1998, the drive train is Shimano from around 2001, the seat is Brooks from around 2010, and so on. I haven't repainted the frame, so it's still the original steely blue.
#36
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I have a few old frames that I have considered building up as period-correct-ish road/sport or touring bikes, but I am concerned that the freewheel axles will bend or break. When I was a teenager and svelt and fast, I bent many an axle on a lightweight racing bike. I can read arguments about steel vs. carbon, or 26" vs 650B vs 700C for days, but anyone saying freewheels are superior to freehubs is ignorant and will be blocked.
If my aluminum touring frame or fork gives up before we start our tour next summer then I may just swap the parts over to one of those old frames.
If my aluminum touring frame or fork gives up before we start our tour next summer then I may just swap the parts over to one of those old frames.
#37
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Up till now all my touring has been on a 1980 schwinn voyageur that was not purpose built for touring until later model years, or a 1990 fuji made touring bike.
here is an old pic of the fuji.
Moving forward I am now using a modern steel frame i used to use for gravel that has great geometry and brazeons for how I tour.
here is an old pic of the fuji.
Moving forward I am now using a modern steel frame i used to use for gravel that has great geometry and brazeons for how I tour.
Last edited by mstateglfr; 11-26-19 at 05:39 PM.
#38
Senior Member
Nope, not in 60k+ miles. Even for years as a heavier rider and more recently as a 'near Clyde', I've NEVER had an axle break on a freewheel hub. I don't even own a freehub road bike... although I think the 90/91 Woodlands that I use exclusively as a 'pit bike' at the drags is...
#39
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Give me a break. I've gone through this entire thread and I don't remember anyone saying anything like that. I pointed out that I have never bent an axle while riding a freewheel-equipped bike. I like freewheels. I like cassettes. Advocating that I (or anyone) be blocked for expressing a valid opinion is way out of hand, especially when you're arguing against a strawman. Maybe I missed the humor or something. Yeesh!
#40
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Give me a break. I've gone through this entire thread and I don't remember anyone saying anything like that. I pointed out that I have never bent an axle while riding a freewheel-equipped bike. I like freewheels. I like cassettes. Advocating that I (or anyone) be blocked for expressing a valid opinion is way out of hand, especially when you're arguing against a strawman. Maybe I missed the humor or something. Yeesh!
I will block anyone who claims freewheels are superior to freehubs, and anyone who can't understand that was a joke.
#41
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Give me a break. I've gone through this entire thread and I don't remember anyone saying anything like that. I pointed out that I have never bent an axle while riding a freewheel-equipped bike. I like freewheels. I like cassettes. Advocating that I (or anyone) be blocked for expressing a valid opinion is way out of hand, especially when you're arguing against a strawman. Maybe I missed the humor or something. Yeesh!
Physics alone will show that any axle is stronger in a freehub than the same axle would be in a freewheel. That's because of the greater leverage of the longer protruding section of freewheel axle. Plus, the more cogs on a freewheel the longer the unsupported portion of the axle there is.
Cheers