C&V Loaded Tour (1,300km) Suggestions.....
#1
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C&V Loaded Tour (1,300km) Suggestions.....
Hi all,
If all goes to plan correctly, and I am granted funding for a college thesis project (I am already partially funded), I will be spending some time in Iceland next summer, and the following two summers. My dream has been to ride the ring road, and have planned a tour of it before. I have planned long tours elsewhere before, but finally I realistically see this plan coming to fruition!
My hope was to build up a frame between now and then to use on the tour. I like the idea of touring on a C&V frame, and welcome all suggestions. Yes, I have done some forum searching and yielded Trek 720, Miyata 1000, and Centurion Pro Tour ideas, but that's all I know....
Everything from groupset to frame advice is welcome. My main concerns are reliability and ability to take weight, but I tend to put weight on front panniers. I hike long distance 'ultralight', so my gear is minimal and fits in a 40L hiking pack.
Thanks so much!
-G
If all goes to plan correctly, and I am granted funding for a college thesis project (I am already partially funded), I will be spending some time in Iceland next summer, and the following two summers. My dream has been to ride the ring road, and have planned a tour of it before. I have planned long tours elsewhere before, but finally I realistically see this plan coming to fruition!
My hope was to build up a frame between now and then to use on the tour. I like the idea of touring on a C&V frame, and welcome all suggestions. Yes, I have done some forum searching and yielded Trek 720, Miyata 1000, and Centurion Pro Tour ideas, but that's all I know....
Everything from groupset to frame advice is welcome. My main concerns are reliability and ability to take weight, but I tend to put weight on front panniers. I hike long distance 'ultralight', so my gear is minimal and fits in a 40L hiking pack.
Thanks so much!
-G
#2
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Never been, much less toured.
A couple active posters have toured the island in the last few years though. @jefnvk @niknak @tourist-in-msn
Pretty sure upright rigid mtb style frames were used for the bike builds. From pics I've seen, a wider tire is better than what traditional drop bar touring bikes can fit.
Posting in the touring forum may get you more hits with experience in that location.
Loaded touring in Iceland /= loaded touring in the midwest USA(for example).
Good luck
A couple active posters have toured the island in the last few years though. @jefnvk @niknak @tourist-in-msn
Pretty sure upright rigid mtb style frames were used for the bike builds. From pics I've seen, a wider tire is better than what traditional drop bar touring bikes can fit.
Posting in the touring forum may get you more hits with experience in that location.
Loaded touring in Iceland /= loaded touring in the midwest USA(for example).
Good luck
#3
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Cannondale T1000. Nothing carries weight and remains as stiff as these bikes. Put the load wherever you want. Exceed your load. Whatever.
Denmark for a month, Holland for 2 months, little Belgium and Germany
Denmark for a month, Holland for 2 months, little Belgium and Germany
#4
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I'm sure all three of those bikes would be excellent choices. All three will do the job happily. You'll need to decide for yourself which you prefer. If you have an ultralight hiker mindset, you'll be alright. Modern touring bikes, ie Surly, are designed for heavyset people who pack everything and the kitchen sink. No reason you really need more than about 20-25# worth of stuff.
Right after high school, BITD, me and my buddy from HS did a tour about twice that long. The bikes employed were one Trek 720, and one Univega Specialissima (mine), which is a Miyata 1000 with different decals. It was a great time, despite the angry skunk incident. So I can personally endorse 2/3 of those choices. Note that a Specialissima should be on your list also, as it is in effect a slighly higher spec Miyata 1000, and they often go under the radar. Even though I worked at the time for a Trek and Univega dealer, and could have got a deal on either, I went with the (Miyata made) Univega over a 720 because it was cheaper and I felt it had a sportier racing bike like ride.
Can't go wrong really. Don't overpack. Try to plan so that you can buy food along the way, understanding that Iceland is relatively sparsely populated. I've never been to Iceland, but from what I know it can be very windy. Don't get one of those stupid ultralight tents (ie Big Agnes fly reek). Stick to the double or triple hoop type.
Right after high school, BITD, me and my buddy from HS did a tour about twice that long. The bikes employed were one Trek 720, and one Univega Specialissima (mine), which is a Miyata 1000 with different decals. It was a great time, despite the angry skunk incident. So I can personally endorse 2/3 of those choices. Note that a Specialissima should be on your list also, as it is in effect a slighly higher spec Miyata 1000, and they often go under the radar. Even though I worked at the time for a Trek and Univega dealer, and could have got a deal on either, I went with the (Miyata made) Univega over a 720 because it was cheaper and I felt it had a sportier racing bike like ride.
Can't go wrong really. Don't overpack. Try to plan so that you can buy food along the way, understanding that Iceland is relatively sparsely populated. I've never been to Iceland, but from what I know it can be very windy. Don't get one of those stupid ultralight tents (ie Big Agnes fly reek). Stick to the double or triple hoop type.
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#6
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How do you feel about components? What did you use on your Uni?
I was hiking the Pacific Crest Trail (did not do the whole thing) earlier this year and tested a few tents in some varying conditions, I definitely agree with you, tent and sleeping bag should not be skimped on, but also there is so much hype for the UL style ones, which are quite shaky in high wind. Haha... all to save a pound or two. My base weight was 16-18lbs without food or water, I carried about 3L of water (filtering throughout the day) and 6 days of food. I would definitely rather buy more food on the road than carry. Oh! But I carried a 35mm film camera and two lenses, so that added many lbs..... I definitely wasn't the lightest on the trail when all the food and such was packed. I'm about 180-190lbs, so all together my tour weight shouldn't be too bad.
Thanks again.
G
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I'll chip in in favor of the Cannondales, get a 1991 or earlier ST600 or ST1000 with the steel fork and put the biggest tires you can squeeze in. Here's mine with 35mm tires under fenders:
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● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
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You mentioned the Pacific Crest Trail... are you located by chance im the PNW? I see a frame on CL which could make a great foundation for a touring bike build if it’s within your size range.
#9
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Last time I saw you, you seemed a bit smaller than 180 lbs. All growed up now eh, son? If you've been going on the kind of hikes you've described, I don't think you'll mind too much packing lots more gear on a bike.
I'll chip in in favor of the Cannondales, get a 1991 or earlier ST600 or ST1000 with the steel fork and put the biggest tires you can squeeze in. Here's mine with 35mm tires under fenders:
I'll chip in in favor of the Cannondales, get a 1991 or earlier ST600 or ST1000 with the steel fork and put the biggest tires you can squeeze in. Here's mine with 35mm tires under fenders:
That's a nice bike! Thanks for the show I appreciate the response.
Also... I've always been this big, haha, unfortunately I'm still on the shorter side. I think you met me at my lightest. I think I was 16 then!
I do expect having some more gear will be a great comfort/luxury... Haha.
Cheers
Garret
#10
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I rode the Ring Road in 2008. There were a few parts, mainly in the east, that weren't paved. The dirt roads were in good shape. Since the riding is mainly on the coast, there are very few extended climbs. The riding was actually easy. But when the wind didn't cooperate, that was a different story.
The bike I took was a classic road touring bike with canti brakes, down tube shifters, and 700x35 tires.
If you're packing light, then what bike you use won't matter too much. I'd opt for the widest tires your frame can fit. And bring a four season tent. The wind doesn't play games there.
The bike I took was a classic road touring bike with canti brakes, down tube shifters, and 700x35 tires.
If you're packing light, then what bike you use won't matter too much. I'd opt for the widest tires your frame can fit. And bring a four season tent. The wind doesn't play games there.
#11
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Was previously in the Port Townsend WA area, but Olympia is my second 'home,' I live in Moscow, Idaho for school. Where is the frame? For geometry ideas my Merckx is 54cm and my Bianchi is 52cm... which feels slightly small, although it is a CX frame. I have a 30" inseam.
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#13
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Not sure if the Ring Road is fully paved yet. The paved parts can be done on any bike, although I'd suggest alternative routes in and out of Reykjavik. The Icelandic tourism office prints free cyclist maps with suggestions. There are a few cycle paths leaving the city, and alternate roads suggested to the north and south once you leave those. The highway from the airport is mostly flat with a wide shoulder, easy to ride.
As far as the bike, you're gonna want wide gearing. I'd also suggest sticking with frames that can accept "modern" components. Not a lot of bike shops or assistance out there, and any old parts will be impossible to source.
I'd stick to wider tires for the non paved main roads. If I were going again, I'd probably take my Mazama with 40mm tires. If you plan on any F-roads, plan on MTB or fat bike.
Any specific questions, just quote or tag me so it hits my email, got busy this summer and haven't had the chance to hang out here as much!
As far as the bike, you're gonna want wide gearing. I'd also suggest sticking with frames that can accept "modern" components. Not a lot of bike shops or assistance out there, and any old parts will be impossible to source.
I'd stick to wider tires for the non paved main roads. If I were going again, I'd probably take my Mazama with 40mm tires. If you plan on any F-roads, plan on MTB or fat bike.
Any specific questions, just quote or tag me so it hits my email, got busy this summer and haven't had the chance to hang out here as much!
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I rode the Ring Road in 2008. There were a few parts, mainly in the east, that weren't paved. The dirt roads were in good shape. Since the riding is mainly on the coast, there are very few extended climbs. The riding was actually easy. But when the wind didn't cooperate, that was a different story.
The bike I took was a classic road touring bike with canti brakes, down tube shifters, and 700x35 tires.
If you're packing light, then what bike you use won't matter too much. I'd opt for the widest tires your frame can fit. And bring a four season tent. The wind doesn't play games there.
The bike I took was a classic road touring bike with canti brakes, down tube shifters, and 700x35 tires.
If you're packing light, then what bike you use won't matter too much. I'd opt for the widest tires your frame can fit. And bring a four season tent. The wind doesn't play games there.
Right after John O' Groats to Land's End, after Ireland, after France, after Italy, Croatia...
__________________
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
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Was previously in the Port Townsend WA area, but Olympia is my second 'home,' I live in Moscow, Idaho for school. Where is the frame? For geometry ideas my Merckx is 54cm and my Bianchi is 52cm... which feels slightly small, although it is a CX frame. I have a 30" inseam.
Regardless, you might want to take a peek at it not to buy it it of course, but to see what an 80’s Novara Randonee might offer you as yet an option to your quest for a frame.
Portland CL
https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/...954124670.html
Last edited by deux jambes; 08-13-19 at 09:20 PM.
#17
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The importance of components is to some degree over rated. I do think reliability is good. The frame matters. Wheels and tires matter. Other than that, the parts won't make much difference as long as you stick to reasonable quality and set it up properly. No fun if stuff breaks. I would recommend 36h wheels, but nothing too heavy is required IME. Nice to have the resiliency to be able to lose a spoke. Get good tires and a comfortable seat. Pick what you like or better yet buy a fully set up bike and fix it up as necessary.
I suggest SPD rather than vintage pedals. They are just better. Also, I'd probably go with aero levers. If only because it makes it easy to work on your bike upside down in camp if you need to.
In modern speak, my old Univega was a frankenbike. I bought a frame and then built it up with stuff from my junk box plus what could buy for a good deal. Ended up with lots of then out of fashion bike boom parts. Lemme see, Cinelli bar and stem, Avocet cranks, Suntour derailleurs and shifters, Mafac canti brakes, Lyotard 23 pedals, Zeus seatpost and a Turbo seat IIRC. I dutifully built up some 27 x 1 1/4 clinchers as was the practice of the time, Super champ 58 I think. Never used them though, since I decided that my training tubulars were strong enough, and would roll faster. I hated clinchers...
#18
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Great, thanks for that tip regarding Reykjavik. I'll check out the cycle trails!
Noted on the parts, I definitely want to stick with a derailleur setup and not do IGH, but that's as far as I've gotten... I was thinking I would just watch for a decent price on the 'higher end' groupsets of the C&V. I think I'll have time to practice servicing and working on the bike before leaving. Just thinking out loud. Now, if I don't end up with a frameset and have a complete bike to start with, I'll just give it a service and see how it feels I suppose. I definitely plan on new wheels and tires regardless.
I think 40mm tires will be tough to fit with fenders, but I think 32 is definitely possible... If I wasn't going C&V my plan was to build up a Soma Wolverine.
I really appreciate your response and will keep your username noted! Thanks!
Noted on the parts, I definitely want to stick with a derailleur setup and not do IGH, but that's as far as I've gotten... I was thinking I would just watch for a decent price on the 'higher end' groupsets of the C&V. I think I'll have time to practice servicing and working on the bike before leaving. Just thinking out loud. Now, if I don't end up with a frameset and have a complete bike to start with, I'll just give it a service and see how it feels I suppose. I definitely plan on new wheels and tires regardless.
I think 40mm tires will be tough to fit with fenders, but I think 32 is definitely possible... If I wasn't going C&V my plan was to build up a Soma Wolverine.
I really appreciate your response and will keep your username noted! Thanks!
#19
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Fly out for a few days on my way back/out from Reykjavik! Haha.
#20
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Ah... the frame is to big then. The seller has it listed as 57.5 c-t
Regardless, you might want to take a peek at it not to buy it it of course, but to see what an 80’s Novara Randonee might offer you as yet an option to your quest for a frame.
Portland CL
https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/...954124670.html
Regardless, you might want to take a peek at it not to buy it it of course, but to see what an 80’s Novara Randonee might offer you as yet an option to your quest for a frame.
Portland CL
https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/...954124670.html
#21
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The importance of components is to some degree over rated. I do think reliability is good. The frame matters. Wheels and tires matter. Other than that, the parts won't make much difference as long as you stick to reasonable quality and set it up properly. No fun if stuff breaks. I would recommend 36h wheels, but nothing too heavy is required IME. Nice to have the resiliency to be able to lose a spoke. Get good tires and a comfortable seat. Pick what you like or better yet buy a fully set up bike and fix it up as necessary.
I suggest SPD rather than vintage pedals. They are just better. Also, I'd probably go with aero levers. If only because it makes it easy to work on your bike upside down in camp if you need to.
In modern speak, my old Univega was a frankenbike. I bought a frame and then built it up with stuff from my junk box plus what could buy for a good deal. Ended up with lots of then out of fashion bike boom parts. Lemme see, Cinelli bar and stem, Avocet cranks, Suntour derailleurs and shifters, Mafac canti brakes, Lyotard 23 pedals, Zeus seatpost and a Turbo seat IIRC. I dutifully built up some 27 x 1 1/4 clinchers as was the practice of the time, Super champ 58 I think. Never used them though, since I decided that my training tubulars were strong enough, and would roll faster. I hated clinchers...
I suggest SPD rather than vintage pedals. They are just better. Also, I'd probably go with aero levers. If only because it makes it easy to work on your bike upside down in camp if you need to.
In modern speak, my old Univega was a frankenbike. I bought a frame and then built it up with stuff from my junk box plus what could buy for a good deal. Ended up with lots of then out of fashion bike boom parts. Lemme see, Cinelli bar and stem, Avocet cranks, Suntour derailleurs and shifters, Mafac canti brakes, Lyotard 23 pedals, Zeus seatpost and a Turbo seat IIRC. I dutifully built up some 27 x 1 1/4 clinchers as was the practice of the time, Super champ 58 I think. Never used them though, since I decided that my training tubulars were strong enough, and would roll faster. I hated clinchers...
#22
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I've done a fair bit of touring, mostly on a Schwinn High Sierra that I converted into a tourer. I'd suggest bar-end shifters (or DT I guess) over brifters, something I'm glad I did. A mechanical mishap I've had on a long tour was a cable housing end give way which allowed the cable housing to start to pull itself into the shifter, making indexing impossible. I rigged it together enough so that it would be rideable, switched it to friction mode, and made it the few days necessary to get to a town with a bike shop. A similar problem with brifters would have been much more difficult to figure our on the side of the road and could have done some damage to the little parts inside the shifter. I also went with 26" over a 700c frame. When I'm riding fully loaded 26" wheels feel so much better. I don't know if they're actually stronger or more stiff because they're smaller or if the smaller wheels allows for a lower center of gravity or what, but its like night and day for me. I also once had to buy a giant knobby 26" tire off a Roadmaster at a general store in the middle of nowhere when my tire had a sidewall failure. Wouldn't have been able to do that with a 700c tire. I'd say, go ultralight with your gear, but go simple with the bike itself. Quality wheels and tires matter more than the frame.
#23
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I've done a fair bit of touring, mostly on a Schwinn High Sierra that I converted into a tourer. I'd suggest bar-end shifters (or DT I guess) over brifters, something I'm glad I did. A mechanical mishap I've had on a long tour was a cable housing end give way which allowed the cable housing to start to pull itself into the shifter, making indexing impossible. I rigged it together enough so that it would be rideable, switched it to friction mode, and made it the few days necessary to get to a town with a bike shop. A similar problem with brifters would have been much more difficult to figure our on the side of the road and could have done some damage to the little parts inside the shifter. I also went with 26" over a 700c frame. When I'm riding fully loaded 26" wheels feel so much better. I don't know if they're actually stronger or more stiff because they're smaller or if the smaller wheels allows for a lower center of gravity or what, but its like night and day for me. I also once had to buy a giant knobby 26" tire off a Roadmaster at a general store in the middle of nowhere when my tire had a sidewall failure. Wouldn't have been able to do that with a 700c tire. I'd say, go ultralight with your gear, but go simple with the bike itself. Quality wheels and tires matter more than the frame.
Wyoming eh? Looks like fun.
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Good idea! There’s no nod to Bike Forums C&V quite as reverent as attaching a piece from the BOC to bike that will see many miles! I’ll be including a saddle bag from the Box O’ Crap on a touring bike which I’ll begin building tomorrow.
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Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Olympia, WA
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Bikes: Bianchi San Jose - Di2 Alfine, 1985 Eddy Merckx Corsa Extra, 1984? Miyata TerraRunner, 1986? Miyata 1000, 1988? Fuji Opus III, Nishiki International
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That's great! I hope I can do the honor of using something from the BOC around Iceland.... I have a couple BOC parts from round one, years ago.