Wozza2014

Hi.

I replaced the bb's in my front and back wheels for the first time. It rides fine at the moment but I noticed the freehub is noticeable. This is an old bike that I picked up recently so I am not sure if it was like that before (it's an old claude butler from the 80's with an Exage 300EX Derailler with 7 rear gears). Also the hubs were very black and dirty. I take it the cassette can only go on one way and it is impossible to install it wrong?

Cheers.

Unca_Sam

If you got it off, and it went back on with little trouble and it's not doing anything strange, it's probably OK. Is it giving you a problem? The space between the cassette and the rest of the freehub is normal, the freehub body has shoulder's on the splines to stop the cassette from moving in any further.

The biggest sin you'd have here is if the lockring (if it uses a lockring) isn't torqued to spec. Your cassette can come loose and the cogs will chatter while you pedal. It's not a huge problem as long as you don't keep riding with it that way. With a threaded cog, pedaling in that gear will keep it plenty tight, sometimes to the point that they're very difficult to remove later.

Wozza2014

Thanks. I am off to France on this bike tomorrow so I am just worrying that my handy work might be the undoing of me. haha.

Yes your right I am also worrying a little about the lockring whether I tightened it up enough. I followed the RJ bike guy on youtube and I wrenched it up a little not super tight. More than finger tight though. Oh well we'll see over the coming days whether it comes off or not. I think I will take my lockring tool with me.

Unca_Sam

Cassette Lock rings are usually 40Nm torque. Unless you used a calibrated wrench or weight on a lever arm, your applied torque is subjective.

That said, tight enough should be sufficient. RJ's method of finger tight plus 1/4 turn shouldn't cause you too many problems, but it's not likely to be the specified torque.

Enjoy your ride and bring plenty of water!

Bill Kapaun

IF this hub has the smallest cog (note threads on body in pic)
threaded on, it'll tighten itself when you pedal.

Unca_Sam

https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-m...ehub-body.html

The Exage 500 handles both.

Velobase

ThermionicScott 

Just torque it down tighter now. You owe it to Future Wozza2014 to have this bike in the best riding shape possible before you head out.

Your freehub body is "noticeable" because the whole unit sits outside of the hub shell rather than being slightly recessed into the hub shell like some of Shimano's road hubs. Compare @Bill Kapaun's picture with this 105:



So it looks fine to me. I rode PBP 2015 on the same exact rear hub as you have.

Bill Kapaun

How about the Exage 300 like the OP has?

ThermionicScott 

The hub reads "FH-HG50" just like your picture, as best I can tell, the RD is what's Exage 300.

OP's cassette is HG, not sure why debating UG compatibility is important here.

Wozza2014

I can't check it now it is too late as I am leaving first thing. I will just hope it's tight enough. What is the best gear to tighten it when riding?

ThermionicScott 

It's Hyperglide, it won't tighten while riding, unfortunately.

CliffordK

As far as the space you're seeing behind the cassette, note from the photos above, the groves on the freehub extend about 1/8" beyond the stops for the cassette, thus the space you're seeing.

Your lock ring was the small ring. So with a uniglide cassette, the small ring will tighten it. You get a bit more leverage cross chained, climbing, small/small, but probably not the best way to ride.

With a freewheel, all the sprockets will tighten it, and probably the more the bigger sprocket and steeper hill.