Rim Brakes Wearing Out Rims
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Great Trivia information!
BTW, this thread is kind of off topic anymore. OP wanted to know how to slow brake surface abrasion, and was concerned about sidewall blowout. Responses indicated that cleaning the pads and rims will abate said abrasion, or that the degradation is typically gradual enough to not merit extra concern.
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In addition, Kool Stop Salmon pads will reduce abrasion of the rim's braking surface. Especially if the bike is ridden in wet conditions.
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Celticgirl, rims wear out from caliper brakes over time. Fact of life. It's part of the stopping process. (Discs do too.) How fast depends on a lot of factors mentioned above. Riding in the wet speeds up the wear a lot. Likewise riding in abrasive dust, sand and gravel.
If the OP is a fair-weather only type of rider, don’t worry about it.
All-Weather, high-mileage riders can benefit from regular inspections.
I’ve had two rims fail catastrophically, and some merely flare out in a less spectacular manner.
About the only realistic way of reducing wear that I can think of is pad choice, and regular cleaning of pads and rims. The stock pads on a Merida I have were nothing short of AMAZING WRT picking up debris.
It’s possible that brake technique might matter too. Dragging the brake is poor descent technique WRT heat build-up. Perhaps it also accelerates wear.
One expensive option is to go for ceramic coated rims. As far as brake wear goes, they last ”forever”.
With that said, they need to outlast a standard rim 3-5 times to make up for the higher price.
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#30
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What about aluminum oxide buildup in the pads!?
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Celticgirl, I forgot to mention one thing you can do that will make a real difference, especially if you ride in the wet. If you have access to a garden hose or the like after your rides, you can do a quick blast with the nozzle set on a narrow jet. I have a routine where I spray the bike down (below the top tube) with a fine mist to generally clean the bike (and wash off that miserable grey braking powder) and blast the brake pads from both front and back with the jet (making sure I don't it the headset). This way you start your next ride with very little grit embedded in the pads. (I don't inspect but I can tell they feel clean when I apply the brakes.)
Another trick - if you feel grit in the pads while you ride, dab on the brakes a few times. Doesn't always work, but often you can feel the pads go clean as you knock stuff off them.
Edit: If I lost access to my garden hose, I would look into brushing my pads clean with say emerycloth. Something cardboard like in stiffness that I could easily slide between the pad and rim and gently "brush off" the pad, maybe very gently squeezing the brake as I did so. (I just thought of the material. Discs for angle grinders. The 6" (or so) hard, thin pads of say 60 grit coarseness. Home Depot tool section.) I haven't tried this. Actually I have a non-incentive to being completely pro-active in saving rims - I love building wheels!
Another trick - if you feel grit in the pads while you ride, dab on the brakes a few times. Doesn't always work, but often you can feel the pads go clean as you knock stuff off them.
Edit: If I lost access to my garden hose, I would look into brushing my pads clean with say emerycloth. Something cardboard like in stiffness that I could easily slide between the pad and rim and gently "brush off" the pad, maybe very gently squeezing the brake as I did so. (I just thought of the material. Discs for angle grinders. The 6" (or so) hard, thin pads of say 60 grit coarseness. Home Depot tool section.) I haven't tried this. Actually I have a non-incentive to being completely pro-active in saving rims - I love building wheels!
Last edited by 79pmooney; 08-14-19 at 10:43 AM.
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If you have canti brakes, you can quick release the yoke cable and the pads should swing out so you can visually inspect them and clean them. Then wipe down your rim brake surface at the same time.
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Probably quite a few. The thing I've noticed when a rim is getting thin and the brake track begins to bulge outward under air pressure, the brake will give a "thumping" sensation when it's applied. Once the thump is felt, a close inspection of the rim will usually reveal a wide spot associated with a crack. This is the time to replace the rim... before it looks like the image ^^.
(Note that rim damage from an impact can also cause thumping in an otherwise un-worn rim.)
I'm going to disagree with you here (about worn bearings anyway). Hubs can last a long, long time if they are maintained regularly and properly. When the bearings start to wear out, it's usually the cones that show early signs of wear; if these are replaced, the cups can last almost indefinitely. Rims can be thought of as "consumable" parts, sort of like brake pads.
In my experience, road rims and mountain rims wear slowly... almost imperceptibly. Small-diameter (406 ERD 20") rims on commuter bikes do wear out. I have replaced several over the course of ~20,000 miles. Interestingly, the only wheels that I've had the "thumping" phenomenon on are the rear wheels. These are on bikes with rim brakes on which the front brake is used heavily. The front rims show wear, but I've never had to replace one. My hypothesis is that the front wheel kicks up road dust that gets on the rear rim and acts as an abrasive. This problem was so bad on my dedicated "winter" bike that I installed a roller brake on the rear wheel. Problem solved.
This is where the brake was thumping.
(Note that rim damage from an impact can also cause thumping in an otherwise un-worn rim.)
In my experience, road rims and mountain rims wear slowly... almost imperceptibly. Small-diameter (406 ERD 20") rims on commuter bikes do wear out. I have replaced several over the course of ~20,000 miles. Interestingly, the only wheels that I've had the "thumping" phenomenon on are the rear wheels. These are on bikes with rim brakes on which the front brake is used heavily. The front rims show wear, but I've never had to replace one. My hypothesis is that the front wheel kicks up road dust that gets on the rear rim and acts as an abrasive. This problem was so bad on my dedicated "winter" bike that I installed a roller brake on the rear wheel. Problem solved.
This is where the brake was thumping.
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I'm going to disagree with you here (about worn bearings anyway). Hubs can last a long, long time if they are maintained regularly and properly. When the bearings start to wear out, it's usually the cones that show early signs of wear; if these are replaced, the cups can last almost indefinitely. Rims can be thought of as "consumable" parts, sort of like brake pads.
This is where the brake was thumping.
This is where the brake was thumping.
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#36
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I've worn out 2 set of road rims to point of noticeable cupping. I avoid riding wet conditions as much as possible. Mainly use Kool Stop salmon pads.
Probably about 40k-50k miles before cupping is a concern.
Went threw 2 sets of mtn rims before going to ceramic coated rims which really reduced wear. Before disk brakes were a common brake.
Probably about 40k-50k miles before cupping is a concern.
Went threw 2 sets of mtn rims before going to ceramic coated rims which really reduced wear. Before disk brakes were a common brake.
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How many miles were on those rims? As is the case with jetliner crashes, a few spectacular failures will hog all of the attention when there are a million non-failures.
A wheel is more likely to require replacement for worn cups or impact damage to the rim than for a sidewall blowout.
A wheel is more likely to require replacement for worn cups or impact damage to the rim than for a sidewall blowout.
Since then I've rebuilt several wheels before the rims went boom. Once the brake track shows lots of dish- out it goes.
FWIW: my next bike will have disk brakes.
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No one has ever said that here. What we do say is that they don’t wear out as rapidly as you seem to think.
There are still millions of bikes being made without discs and there are millions (perhaps a billion) more that don’t have them.
BTW they are losing the argument to all the new road bikes coming with disc brakes.
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Cost to replace a rim depends entirely on the particular components.
Basic reasonable rims can be had in the ~$30 range. Fancy aluminum rims can get into the ~$200 range. Decent round spokes and nipples tend to run a little over $1/spoke, although nice bladed spokes can be over $3/spoke.
Basic reasonable rims can be had in the ~$30 range. Fancy aluminum rims can get into the ~$200 range. Decent round spokes and nipples tend to run a little over $1/spoke, although nice bladed spokes can be over $3/spoke.
It’s also not as simple as you make it out to be. Rims have different effective rim diameters (ERDs) that have to be matched or the spokes won’t work. A single wall rims ($40 above) can’t just be swapped for a double walled rim (the $90 one). The spokes would be too long. The spokes would be too short if you went the other way.
Often it isn’t cost effective to rebuild a wheel because of the cost of the rebuild and having to find an identical rim to the one being replaced or at least one with the same ERD. Spokes can outlast lots of rims but getting everything just right isn’t always possible.
Alternately, it's frequently cheaper to just buy a new wheel... You'll want to check hub adjustment and spoke tension on any wheel that's not made carefully by a good wheelbuilder, though.
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Last edited by cyccommute; 08-15-19 at 06:30 AM.
#40
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Not quite. I’m not sure what you mean by a “basic” rim nor by a “fancy aluminum” rim but $200 is far too high for even the fanciest of aluminum rims and $30 for a cheap rim is probably too low. $40 to $90 would be a more realist range.
It’s also not as simple as you make it out to be. Rims have different effective rim diameters (ERDs) that have to be matched or the spokes won’t work. A single wall rims ($40 above) can’t just be swapped for a double walled rim (the $90 one). The spokes would be too long. The spokes would be too short if you went the other way.
#41
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Mavic A119 is 16.76€. I have them on one of my bikes, and they're not too bad. If I were going through rims on that bike, I'd just buy a stack of them.
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OP has suggested in other threads that she rides a cruiser style bike on paved surfaces. Also, she hasn't been back to this thread so I'm guessing her question was answered.
As my boss likes to say, I think everything's been said but not everyone has said it.
As my boss likes to say, I think everything's been said but not everyone has said it.
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Mavic A119 is 16.76€. I have them on one of my bikes, and they're not too bad. If I were going through rims on that bike, I'd just buy a stack of them.
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#44
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Thanks everyone for the very informative posts, I've had quite an education. This topic is something I never thought about all these years, until I read about rim wear somewhere.
I just ride casually pretty much around town and to the grocery store, and in dry weather.
From what I've read I guess my rims should outlast me.
I just ride casually pretty much around town and to the grocery store, and in dry weather.
From what I've read I guess my rims should outlast me.
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#45
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May they take a long time to do so!
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