New Wheels
08-17-19, 12:20 PM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
New Wheels
Doing a complete rebuild on a 1994 Cannondale H400. I have stripped the bike down completely, the frame and forks are almost immaculate, and I am going to rebuild it from the wheels up. This is a project/learning experience for me. I知 not trying to do anything elaborate.
My question involves replacing the wheelset. The labels are too worn to determine even which brand of rims were originally on the bike but it has 700x35c tires on it. How can I determine the proper wheelset from either the dimensions of the wheel or the tire size? As I致e been going through the process of selecting components, this is the one thing that has continued to baffle me.
My question involves replacing the wheelset. The labels are too worn to determine even which brand of rims were originally on the bike but it has 700x35c tires on it. How can I determine the proper wheelset from either the dimensions of the wheel or the tire size? As I致e been going through the process of selecting components, this is the one thing that has continued to baffle me.
08-17-19, 12:25 PM
#2
Senior Member
08-17-19, 12:38 PM
#3
Member
Thread Starter
Vintage Cannondale Website
I知 familiar with the Vintage Cannondale site, even ordered some small parts for the project there, but unless I知 missing something I知 not finding any information that really answers my question.
08-17-19, 01:01 PM
#4
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What exactly is the question?
Do you want a period correct wheelset or a wheelset that will work with your frame?
If period correct, then you need to research both what is period correct (a quick bit of research indicates they were Ritchey Vantage Cross Sport rims), and source parts
If just a set that works, measure the OLD (width of the rear hub, will be 130mm or 135mm, and buy a set of wheels with this OLD/for 700c/29er rim brakes.
Another question would be, what is wrong with the current wheels? is the frame is in immaculate condition, this indicates the bike is pretty much unused, and maybe the wheels could just use a bearing service (labels peeling is something that happens with age, not necessarily use).
Do you want a period correct wheelset or a wheelset that will work with your frame?
If period correct, then you need to research both what is period correct (a quick bit of research indicates they were Ritchey Vantage Cross Sport rims), and source parts
If just a set that works, measure the OLD (width of the rear hub, will be 130mm or 135mm, and buy a set of wheels with this OLD/for 700c/29er rim brakes.
Another question would be, what is wrong with the current wheels? is the frame is in immaculate condition, this indicates the bike is pretty much unused, and maybe the wheels could just use a bearing service (labels peeling is something that happens with age, not necessarily use).
08-17-19, 01:04 PM
#5
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From what I can gather, the OEM rims were Sun L18. They appear to be single-walled rims with probably an 18mm inner width. Unless you need to be "catalog correct", I would just use rims that are better and more available here in 2019. 
08-17-19, 01:25 PM
#6
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Thread Starter
I am looking for a wheelset that will work with the frame. It does not need to be exactly what was originally on the bike, however I want to stay with the wider tires in that 35 range. It by no means needs to be exact though.
How can I identify whether a wheel is wide enough to accommodate that thicker tire? Am I wrong in thinking I would need a different wheel for this bike compared to my road bike which is running 700cx25 assuming that the rear hub is 135mm for both?
How can I identify whether a wheel is wide enough to accommodate that thicker tire? Am I wrong in thinking I would need a different wheel for this bike compared to my road bike which is running 700cx25 assuming that the rear hub is 135mm for both?
08-17-19, 01:34 PM
#7
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Thread Starter
ThermionicScott, I believe you just answered my question. Inner diameter of the rim will be the deciding factor in tire width?
08-17-19, 01:36 PM
#8
Really Old Senior Member
Front wheels are relatively generic for that era. 100mm spacing & rim brakes.
The rear requires more attention since they come in different "speeds".
Your bike appears to have a 7 speed cassette. 7 speed Free Hubs are shorter than >7 speed hubs.
You MIGHT have an 8 speed hub with a 4.5mm (3/16") spacer installed before the cassette to take up the extra room. You can eyeball this.
drop out spacing is important, but I'll assume it's 135mm (5-5/16"). CHECK to make sure. It might be 130mm.
IF the bike is 135mm AND you are changing shifters, now would be a good time to go to 8 or 9 speed.
You need a new R shifter. IF going to 9 speed, also a new chain.
The rear requires more attention since they come in different "speeds".
Your bike appears to have a 7 speed cassette. 7 speed Free Hubs are shorter than >7 speed hubs.
You MIGHT have an 8 speed hub with a 4.5mm (3/16") spacer installed before the cassette to take up the extra room. You can eyeball this.
drop out spacing is important, but I'll assume it's 135mm (5-5/16"). CHECK to make sure. It might be 130mm.
IF the bike is 135mm AND you are changing shifters, now would be a good time to go to 8 or 9 speed.
You need a new R shifter. IF going to 9 speed, also a new chain.
08-17-19, 01:48 PM
#9
Member
Thread Starter
Front wheels are relatively generic for that era. 100mm spacing & rim brakes.
The rear requires more attention since they come in different "speeds".
Your bike appears to have a 7 speed cassette. 7 speed Free Hubs are shorter than >7 speed hubs.
You MIGHT have an 8 speed hub with a 4.5mm (3/16") spacer installed before the cassette to take up the extra room. You can eyeball this.
drop out spacing is important, but I'll assume it's 135mm (5-5/16"). CHECK to make sure. It might be 130mm.
IF the bike is 135mm AND you are changing shifters, now would be a good time to go to 8 or 9 speed.
You need a new R shifter. IF going to 9 speed, also a new chain.
The rear requires more attention since they come in different "speeds".
Your bike appears to have a 7 speed cassette. 7 speed Free Hubs are shorter than >7 speed hubs.
You MIGHT have an 8 speed hub with a 4.5mm (3/16") spacer installed before the cassette to take up the extra room. You can eyeball this.
drop out spacing is important, but I'll assume it's 135mm (5-5/16"). CHECK to make sure. It might be 130mm.
IF the bike is 135mm AND you are changing shifters, now would be a good time to go to 8 or 9 speed.
You need a new R shifter. IF going to 9 speed, also a new chain.
08-17-19, 01:52 PM
#10
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If you're changing out the hub for a more modern wider one, you can keep the 7-speed setup, with the use of a 4.5mm spacer for the back of the cassette, any good LBS should stock these
08-17-19, 02:34 PM
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If looking to go with a more classic look, H+Son TB-14s are nice.
=8-)
=8-)
__________________
5000+ wheels built since 1984...
Disclaimer:
1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
5. My all time favorite book is:
Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life
5000+ wheels built since 1984...
Disclaimer:
1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
5. My all time favorite book is:
Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life
08-17-19, 06:38 PM
#12
Really Old Senior Member
9 speed shifters, cassette & chain are only slightly more $ than 8.
You DO need a new 9 speed chain. (8 speed should be good with your 7 speed chain, but new cassette should have a new chain if worn to any degree)
The good part-
Check the available cog count options for 9 speed vs 8. There's a far wider selection that might fit your specific needs much better in 9 speed than those available in 8.
It won't cost 2X the $ from 8 vs 9.
You SHOULDN'T need a new crank/FDER.
