2012 Salsa Casseroll needs help!!
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2012 Salsa Casseroll needs help!!
I recently got myself a beautiful 2012 Salsa Casseroll and let me tell ya, DREAM COME TRUE. I have some maintenance I would like to do to her but I am also slightly a novice to the sense. I want to start by asking is this bike (stock with cantilever brakes) capable to install v brakes??
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I recently got myself a beautiful 2012 Salsa Casseroll and let me tell ya, DREAM COME TRUE. I have some maintenance I would like to do to her but I am also slightly a novice to the sense. I want to start by asking is this bike (stock with cantilever brakes) capable to install v brakes??
The rear brake may need a cable stop along the top tube, if you have exposed brake cable, or full length cable housing to the rear brake. Your cantilevers likely use a cable stop on a brake bridge, centered behind the seat post; this will no longer be used with linear pull brakes.
Other than those two items (brake lever pull and rear cable stop considerations), linear pull brakes will physically mount to the frame and fork and provide a similar range of pad placement/adjustment as the cantilevers. Linear pull brakes almost exclusively use threaded posts on the brake pads. Cantilevers use either threaded posts or smooth posts. If you're buying new linear pull brakes, they'll come with pads and that won't be a problem. If you're buying used linear pull brakes, you may also need different brake pads.
One final option: you can get "Mini V" brakes -- these are linear pull brakes with relatively short arms designed to be compatible with short pull brake levers. I've used these before and they do work well. You would probably be able to keep your levers, but you'll still have the rear brake cable consideration noted above.
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I see no reason as regards performance to replace cantilever brakes with V-brakes, properly adjusted cantis give fine braking performance. Ditch the link wires if it has them and replace them with straddle wires and carriers (I use Problem Solvers Wide cable carriers) and keep the carriers low to the tire. Add some Kool Stop salmon pads and you should be good to go, or stop, actually.
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As the industry has moved on from cantis the skill to set them up well is also fading. V's are quicker to set up and in a shop time is money, so no wonder cantis are not anywhere as popular as they were (in the world of rim brakes). Andy (who has no bikes with V's)
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Most Casserolls are set up with drop bars, so I'm guessing you have drop bars with combined brake lever/shifters? In that case, changing just the brake lever in order to get long pull is not really an option. Instead, you would need to use something like the Problem Solvers "Travel Agent" to get the right cable pull for v-brakes.
As others have said, it's probably easier to either stick with the cantilevers or use mini v-brakes instead of regular v-brakes. If you don't like adjusting the cantilever brakes, there are some models like the Tektro CR720 that use threaded stem pads and are easier to setup. Easier means less adjustable, though, so you need to check first that the spacing of the mounts is appropriate for those brakes.
As others have said, it's probably easier to either stick with the cantilevers or use mini v-brakes instead of regular v-brakes. If you don't like adjusting the cantilever brakes, there are some models like the Tektro CR720 that use threaded stem pads and are easier to setup. Easier means less adjustable, though, so you need to check first that the spacing of the mounts is appropriate for those brakes.
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I have a set of Tektro CR510s on my Trek 750, and they work really well. I prefer the simplicity of link wires, and you can tune the system with those, too (just use shorter ones). I have link wires that are just short enough that they sit at a little over 90 degrees when at rest (these are nominally supposed to be "at" 90 degrees). I keep the return spring tension on the brake arms themselves to a minimum (I use just enough to balance both sides, and nothing more), and I don't have return springs in my brake levers (I have flat bar levers on a trekking/butterfly bar) and the braking action is very light and very easy to modulate. They're truly 1-finger brakes (with typical 3-finger levers!).
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I see no reason as regards performance to replace cantilever brakes with V-brakes, properly adjusted cantis give fine braking performance. Ditch the link wires if it has them and replace them with straddle wires and carriers (I use Problem Solvers Wide cable carriers) and keep the carriers low to the tire. Add some Kool Stop salmon pads and you should be good to go, or stop, actually.
#8
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I have a set of Tektro CR510s on my Trek 750, and they work really well. I prefer the simplicity of link wires, and you can tune the system with those, too (just use shorter ones). I have link wires that are just short enough that they sit at a little over 90 degrees when at rest (these are nominally supposed to be "at" 90 degrees). I keep the return spring tension on the brake arms themselves to a minimum (I use just enough to balance both sides, and nothing more), and I don't have return springs in my brake levers (I have flat bar levers on a trekking/butterfly bar) and the braking action is very light and very easy to modulate. They're truly 1-finger brakes (with typical 3-finger levers!).
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See there is my problem. I cant properly adjust them and for some reason they just dont seem to want to line jo correctly. the set up on them is using a cable link if you think switching that type may help? I just want something I can learn the ins and outs of and be confident when I ride. Thank you guys for helping!! I guess I'll just keep trying! I just don't wanna mess anything up myself trying to learn on it.
First thing I would suggest is to install a set of Kool Stop salmon compound pads IMO they are the best.
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If you use a straddle cable, add a reflector bracket below it to catch the cable. The advantage of a link is safety. If using a straddle cable and the brake cable breaks or loosens, the straddle cable can grab the tire. If it's a front tire, that can be dangerous.
I had a bike with finicky canti breaks for over twenty years, and finally got tired of the endless minute adjustments needed to keep them tuned exactly right. I messed with those brakes nearly 100 times. The first few dozen times I was kind of clueless, but then I found the Sheldon Brown essay on them, which is excellent. Sure it can be done, but as noted above it takes time and skill to do it right. Now I get to mess with disk brakes for a couple more decades (I hope).
Mini V-brakes with road levers don't give any mechanical advantage over properly tuned cantis.
I had a bike with finicky canti breaks for over twenty years, and finally got tired of the endless minute adjustments needed to keep them tuned exactly right. I messed with those brakes nearly 100 times. The first few dozen times I was kind of clueless, but then I found the Sheldon Brown essay on them, which is excellent. Sure it can be done, but as noted above it takes time and skill to do it right. Now I get to mess with disk brakes for a couple more decades (I hope).
Mini V-brakes with road levers don't give any mechanical advantage over properly tuned cantis.
#11
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If you use a straddle cable, add a reflector bracket below it to catch the cable. The advantage of a link is safety. If using a straddle cable and the brake cable breaks or loosens, the straddle cable can grab the tire. If it's a front tire, that can be dangerous.
I had a bike with finicky canti breaks for over twenty years, and finally got tired of the endless minute adjustments needed to keep them tuned exactly right. I messed with those brakes nearly 100 times. The first few dozen times I was kind of clueless, but then I found the Sheldon Brown essay on them, which is excellent. Sure it can be done, but as noted above it takes time and skill to do it right. Now I get to mess with disk brakes for a couple more decades (I hope).
Mini V-brakes with road levers don't give any mechanical advantage over properly tuned cantis.
I had a bike with finicky canti breaks for over twenty years, and finally got tired of the endless minute adjustments needed to keep them tuned exactly right. I messed with those brakes nearly 100 times. The first few dozen times I was kind of clueless, but then I found the Sheldon Brown essay on them, which is excellent. Sure it can be done, but as noted above it takes time and skill to do it right. Now I get to mess with disk brakes for a couple more decades (I hope).
Mini V-brakes with road levers don't give any mechanical advantage over properly tuned cantis.
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Now, your brakes should be very tight or at least severely dragging. Screw in the barrel adjuster until the brakes open up just enough to reliably not drag. This should get your pads adjusted very close to the rim and leave you with plenty of room at the lever.