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ANY advice is appreciated

Old 12-13-19, 08:25 PM
  #26  
shelbyfv
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You really need to decide on drop vs flat bars. You mentioned "something I can comfortably ride long rides...." Few riders are comfortable on long rides with the limitations of flat bars. There again, 'long rides" can be as subjective as "low end bike" so maybe you could clarify.
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Old 12-13-19, 09:17 PM
  #27  
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I'm still not sure if the OP wants flat bars or drop. Why there is continued discussion before this is clarified is confusing too.
it's a waste of time to suggest bikes that are a different style of riding than the OP wants. and if the OP doesnt have a preference, they really should try out some bikes thru rental or test rides to figure out which cockpit setup is best for them.

Thatd #1 before anything else to me.
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Old 12-13-19, 11:18 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by mstateglfr
I'm still not sure if the OP wants flat bars or drop. Why there is continued discussion before this is clarified is confusing too.
it's a waste of time to suggest bikes that are a different style of riding than the OP wants. and if the OP doesnt have a preference, they really should try out some bikes thru rental or test rides to figure out which cockpit setup is best for them.

Thatd #1 before anything else to me.

Thought that I mentioned in a post that I want drop bars but I am open to getting flat bar if the bike that suits me is flat bar. I understand this can be confusing but I gave the example of the rove vs the DS3 for that reason. They both have what I need but they're different set ups. So after I test ride them both then I will decide. It should be a make or break spec but it isn't for me. Sorry. I enjoy both equally. Long rides or not.
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Old 12-13-19, 11:21 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by shelbyfv
You really need to decide on drop vs flat bars. You mentioned "something I can comfortably ride long rides...." Few riders are comfortable on long rides with the limitations of flat bars. There again, 'long rides" can be as subjective as "low end bike" so maybe you could clarify.
I did clarify in earlier posts that I wouldn't be doing more than 40 road miles a trip maybe more but very rarely as in maybe anually. Typically I wouldn't be riding more than 20 miles at most on average as the 40 miles would be a planned out bike camp trip. And before anyone starts telling me about bike camping bikes and the differnce what I mean is I live in an area that I can get up on mountains in pretty smooth terrain due to the way the roads are here. I dont need a mountain bike as the roads barely get bumpy. Either way. Kona Rove seems to be my bet.
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Old 12-14-19, 05:24 AM
  #30  
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OK, that's a wrap!
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Old 12-14-19, 09:12 AM
  #31  
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I definitely agree with the idea of saving a little more to get a little more. Every bike brings its own compromises, so buying fewer compromises and more benefits makes sense---or, budgeting for replacement after purchase (which, as @Thomas15 notes, can get expensive---manufacturers get really cheap pats, consumers don't.)

You might have that bike for ten or 20 years, and if it is a commuter, might ride it twice a day, ten times per week, for 45 or more weeks each year---that is a lot of time and miles to amortize out the added cost.

As for "The extras money is wasted," that might work for some. Some of us have used cheap parts and better parts and can tell the difference. Either approach is valid, but anyone who has put better wheels on a bike knows that is a difference you can feel. For suspension, the better stuff simply works better---absorbing more impact with less effect on the ride and rider. So sure, you can just tolerate the bigger bumps and use more technique but you will not be as fast as you would be on a bike which helped out more----not that being fast trumps having fun, at least in my book.

But still .... if I were commuting and were going to hang and overweight bouncy fork on the front of my frame .... i would want it to suck up Every bump, and almost be invisible because it was so supple. And, as @63rickert notes, cheap suspension usually has a short life.

I road from LA to Washington DC on a few bikes, most of it on a $500 Dawes. I commuted for years on bikes I pulled out of the trash and rebuilt. I used friction shifting exclusively up until the very late '80s .... and when I finally broke down and bought a couple of slightly pricier bikes, the difference was enormous. I had a lo more fun riding---even just riding to work---when everything worked and worked well, all the time. back in the day you could leave the front shifter as friction and the back as index (early SIS--not front trim) and I Really appreciated the ability to shift much more quickly and with greater accuracy and less thought to technique---it left me free to concentrate on managing traffic or clearing obstacles, depending on where I was riding.

So, yeah ... the OP Could spend a few months picking through dumpsters and visiting yards sales to collect enough pieces to build up a couple commuters which will marginally get the job done---and save a lot of money. Or the OP could do a lot of test rides, find the Right machine for his/her needs, and buy that.

In my experience, just the added reliabilty of a bike you have had since new and maintained regularly is a huge leap forward from riding bikes others have abused and you have tried to repair, and stronger wheels and better brakes are a huge plus when commuting.
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Old 12-14-19, 10:56 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Maelochs
I definitely agree with the idea of saving a little more to get a little more. Every bike brings its own compromises, so buying fewer compromises and more benefits makes sense---or, budgeting for replacement after purchase (which, as @Thomas15 notes, can get expensive---manufacturers get really cheap pats, consumers don't.)

You might have that bike for ten or 20 years, and if it is a commuter, might ride it twice a day, ten times per week, for 45 or more weeks each year---that is a lot of time and miles to amortize out the added cost.

As for "The extras money is wasted," that might work for some. Some of us have used cheap parts and better parts and can tell the difference. Either approach is valid, but anyone who has put better wheels on a bike knows that is a difference you can feel. For suspension, the better stuff simply works better---absorbing more impact with less effect on the ride and rider. So sure, you can just tolerate the bigger bumps and use more technique but you will not be as fast as you would be on a bike which helped out more----not that being fast trumps having fun, at least in my book.

But still .... if I were commuting and were going to hang and overweight bouncy fork on the front of my frame .... i would want it to suck up Every bump, and almost be invisible because it was so supple. And, as @63rickert notes, cheap suspension usually has a short life.

I road from LA to Washington DC on a few bikes, most of it on a $500 Dawes. I commuted for years on bikes I pulled out of the trash and rebuilt. I used friction shifting exclusively up until the very late '80s .... and when I finally broke down and bought a couple of slightly pricier bikes, the difference was enormous. I had a lo more fun riding---even just riding to work---when everything worked and worked well, all the time. back in the day you could leave the front shifter as friction and the back as index (early SIS--not front trim) and I Really appreciated the ability to shift much more quickly and with greater accuracy and less thought to technique---it left me free to concentrate on managing traffic or clearing obstacles, depending on where I was riding.

So, yeah ... the OP Could spend a few months picking through dumpsters and visiting yards sales to collect enough pieces to build up a couple commuters which will marginally get the job done---and save a lot of money. Or the OP could do a lot of test rides, find the Right machine for his/her needs, and buy that.

In my experience, just the added reliabilty of a bike you have had since new and maintained regularly is a huge leap forward from riding bikes others have abused and you have tried to repair, and stronger wheels and better brakes are a huge plus when commuting.
Weirdly enough I went to the local recyclery today and made a temporary commuter. It's an old trek mtn bike, I only picked it because it was the only bike in tact. I can make the upgrades I need for pennies on the dollar at this particular co-op. But I will still be grinding for a real good bike. A commuter. An adventure bike. And if it means I need to suck it up and raise my budget then so be it! I am open to everything that helps. As I just love riding. The same as I love surfing. Gliding smoothly over the earth's surface is my born destiny!!!!
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Old 12-15-19, 12:05 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Liquidspacehead
Weirdly enough I went to the local recyclery today and made a temporary commuter. It's an old trek mtn bike, I only picked it because it was the only bike in tact. I can make the upgrades I need for pennies on the dollar at this particular co-op. But I will still be grinding for a real good bike. A commuter. An adventure bike. And if it means I need to suck it up and raise my budget then so be it! I am open to everything that helps. As I just love riding. The same as I love surfing. Gliding smoothly over the earth's surface is my born destiny!!!!
Where's the photo? I particularly like old rigid mountain bikes, I have a few, one of which is a keeper (trying to downsize) and one for the fiance.
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Old 12-15-19, 12:57 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by katsup
Where's the photo? I particularly like old rigid mountain bikes, I have a few, one of which is a keeper (trying to downsize) and one for the fiance.

Better quality to come
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Old 12-15-19, 12:57 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Liquidspacehead

Better quality to come

The baby girl in the background was my old salsa casserole I got but is too small so I'm building for my fiance btw
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Old 12-15-19, 01:06 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Liquidspacehead
The baby girl in the background was my old salsa casserole I got but is too small so I'm building for my fiance btw
Ha, I was going to ask about the casserole, as they are nice. I've always wanted to find a used one, but so far they have always been too expensive.

The trek is nice too, the old MTB bikes are tough and cheap to keep running.
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Old 12-15-19, 06:16 PM
  #37  
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I think you did the right thing picking up something inexpensive to ride until you figure out exactly what kind of riding you will be doing. Getting out there and riding, you will be exposed directly or indirectly of other kinds of riding and you will discover that different design bikes work better than others in the various kinds of cycling environments. My hybred bike, while technically considered a mountain bike is a TREK 4500. We have a few TREK 3700's kicking around also. Not sure which model your is but it's similar to the ones we have.

On the one hand they (the TREKs) are literally bullet proof. Our TREK's thrive on neglect. The negative is when you are on pavement or smooth, level rail trails, they are slow and energy sappers. On my daughters hybred, I replaced the knobby tires with road tires, this makes it much easier to use on our local rail trails. But I personally wouldn't even consider a 40 mile trip on my TREK on paved roads.

When I got back into bike riding last year I was certain that all I would ride were the local rail trails as we have many rail trails near by and literally 100s of miles of trails. But I got involved with a local club that mainly rides and trains for road events. So my main focus has changed from trails to road. But that was me, you might find bliss on the trails. Right now I have four bikes and would like to get a few more. It's crazy I know.
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Old 12-15-19, 09:37 PM
  #38  
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If no one has suggested it, make sure you have hydraulic front brakes if you plan on riding in falling winter precipitation. Brake cables get wet and freeze up a lot faster than you expect.
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Old 12-17-19, 04:36 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Thomas15
I think you did the right thing picking up something inexpensive to ride until you figure out exactly what kind of riding you will be doing. Getting out there and riding, you will be exposed directly or indirectly of other kinds of riding and you will discover that different design bikes work better than others in the various kinds of cycling environments. My hybred bike, while technically considered a mountain bike is a TREK 4500. We have a few TREK 3700's kicking around also. Not sure which model your is but it's similar to the ones we have.

On the one hand they (the TREKs) are literally bullet proof. Our TREK's thrive on neglect. The negative is when you are on pavement or smooth, level rail trails, they are slow and energy sappers. On my daughters hybred, I replaced the knobby tires with road tires, this makes it much easier to use on our local rail trails. But I personally wouldn't even consider a 40 mile trip on my TREK on paved roads.

When I got back into bike riding last year I was certain that all I would ride were the local rail trails as we have many rail trails near by and literally 100s of miles of trails. But I got involved with a local club that mainly rides and trains for road events. So my main focus has changed from trails to road. But that was me, you might find bliss on the trails. Right now I have four bikes and would like to get a few more. It's crazy I know.
My boss actually traded me a really cool vintage Bridgestone city limit bike that seems to be built to take a beating. So I will be fusing the better parts of the trek with this one! I am hoping to put the V brakes from the trek on the bridgestone seeing as it has some wide ass cantilever brakes it may work? But the trek has a BABY little crack in the frame by the drop outs in the back so I want to try and fix the bridgestone because it has much better quality to it for sure. It freks feels like!

On an update I also realize that I SOMEHOW honestly like the flat bars better!!
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Old 12-17-19, 04:43 PM
  #40  
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A better update

So the riding I will be primarily doing will be on roads and light gravel. Never too much heavy stuff. I live in Asheville NC so it snows maybe 2 or 4 times a year but mostly it's normal weather. Nice weeks with occasional rain. But the roads can be choppy where I ride. And i tend to like riding rough sometimes. I'd like the option for light gravel and some slight off road play. I've discovered I like flat bars SLIGHTLY better and i like the shifting with them better. That being said i am also open to downtime shifters or bar end shifters! So the top 3 contenders are the Trek Dual Sport 3, Kona Rove and the Surly Crosscheck. Disc brakes are a must for me, as well as a nice variety of gears for those steep inclines and being able to pedal while going fast downhill as well. Idk how much this helps, but I am open to any and all bikes! Except Pure.. never heard good things about pure bicycles...
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Old 12-17-19, 08:54 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Liquidspacehead
My boss actually traded me a really cool vintage Bridgestone city limit bike that seems to be built to take a beating. So I will be fusing the better parts of the trek with this one! I am hoping to put the V brakes from the trek on the bridgestone seeing as it has some wide ass cantilever brakes it may work? But the trek has a BABY little crack in the frame by the drop outs in the back so I want to try and fix the bridgestone because it has much better quality to it for sure. It freks feels like!

On an update I also realize that I SOMEHOW honestly like the flat bars better!!

A crack in an AL frame is probably going to be difficult to work around. OTH, mixing various types of components can also be a challenge.

Just my experience, flat bars, drop bars, both have their advantages and disadvantages. With either there is a limit to how long I can ride before my hands start to get numb. I can go longer with drops but there are all kinds of factors and also there are many different grips available for flat bars. What I'm trying to say is it will take some experimentation to figure out what works best.

When we were kids it wasn't this complicated.
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