Where can I find good instructions for SA 4 speed adjustment?
03-07-16, 12:46 PM
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Where can I find good instructions for SA 4 speed adjustment?
I haven't posted here in a while, but where else would one go with a question like this?
A friend has asked me (long distance) to help him adjust his 3 speed after he rebuilt the hub. I thought I was in for potential trouble, even though this guy seems relatively adept mechanically, but that was just the beginning. I asked for pictures of the hub, complete bike (for my own interest) and any cable routing.
I didn't get a picture of the complete bike, but I did discover it is not a 3 speed after all... All I know about the bike other than the hub is that the cottered crank says Armstrong.
The hub is an allow body F.W. marked as 53 The shifter seems to be period correct 3/4 speed SA shifter.
I have a little experience with 3 speed hubs, but none with 4 speed, and the 2 part indicator is unknown to me.
I found a site that had some troubleshooting tips for SA 4 speeds, but no real guidance on how to fix it that would make sense to anyone unless they knew what they were doing to begin with.
Along with my fear that any internal hub rebuilt by an amateur may not be assembled correctly, he hasn't told me specifically what his issue is (yet), although a mutual friend mentioned something that I understand in the 3 speed world, a neutral gear where there shouldn't be one.
I would have him just adjust it similar to a 3 speed (with some trial and error) but I don't know the role of the other piece of the indicator (or if it matters at all)
I would send him to a shop, but he is on a very tight budget, and I honestly wouldn't expect most shops to know any more than either he or I do.
Any thoughts or links would be appreciated.
... Darwin
A friend has asked me (long distance) to help him adjust his 3 speed after he rebuilt the hub. I thought I was in for potential trouble, even though this guy seems relatively adept mechanically, but that was just the beginning. I asked for pictures of the hub, complete bike (for my own interest) and any cable routing.
I didn't get a picture of the complete bike, but I did discover it is not a 3 speed after all... All I know about the bike other than the hub is that the cottered crank says Armstrong.
The hub is an allow body F.W. marked as 53 The shifter seems to be period correct 3/4 speed SA shifter.
I have a little experience with 3 speed hubs, but none with 4 speed, and the 2 part indicator is unknown to me.
I found a site that had some troubleshooting tips for SA 4 speeds, but no real guidance on how to fix it that would make sense to anyone unless they knew what they were doing to begin with.
Along with my fear that any internal hub rebuilt by an amateur may not be assembled correctly, he hasn't told me specifically what his issue is (yet), although a mutual friend mentioned something that I understand in the 3 speed world, a neutral gear where there shouldn't be one.
I would have him just adjust it similar to a 3 speed (with some trial and error) but I don't know the role of the other piece of the indicator (or if it matters at all)I would send him to a shop, but he is on a very tight budget, and I honestly wouldn't expect most shops to know any more than either he or I do.
Any thoughts or links would be appreciated.
... Darwin
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Slow Ride Cyclists of NEPA
People do not seem to realize that their opinion of the world is also a confession of character.
- Ralph Waldo Emerson
Slow Ride Cyclists of NEPA
People do not seem to realize that their opinion of the world is also a confession of character.
- Ralph Waldo Emerson
03-07-16, 01:05 PM
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Tony Hadland's site has what you need.
03-07-16, 01:09 PM
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If the hub has been assembled correctly, with all the right parts in the right orientation etc, and nothing worn out, then adjustment has two stages. First, when reassembling the hub, the cones have to be adjusted right. The SA instructions tell you how to do this. I don't remember the details, so I won't try to explain, but first you set the adjustment on the drive side, then on the left. The former, in my experience, is the really crucial one; if you get it wrong, the hub won't work right. Once the cones are adjusted, you put the wheel in the bike etc and attach the cable, and now you have to adjust the cable correctly. Again, check the SA manual, 1956 version, but I think the correct adjustment is done in N gear (or was it L?). Adjust the cable until the end of the indicator is flush with the end of the axle. At this point the cable is completely slack in H, and gets progressively tighter as you downshift. B is always right, and requires a determined pull, but you should be able to get out into B without breaking the cable. Often a 60 year old trigger is worn out and won't hold the cable in B gear. If that's the case, it will pop back into L, or often pop all the way to N. In such cases you can usually hold the trigger in B with your hand while struggling up the hills.
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Last edited by rhm; 03-07-16 at 01:13 PM.
03-08-16, 06:07 PM
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Tony Hadland's site has what you need.
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Slow Ride Cyclists of NEPA
People do not seem to realize that their opinion of the world is also a confession of character.
- Ralph Waldo Emerson
Slow Ride Cyclists of NEPA
People do not seem to realize that their opinion of the world is also a confession of character.
- Ralph Waldo Emerson
03-09-16, 09:39 AM
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You might want to get a new spring for the trigger shifter. Somebody is selling them on ebay now. I stocked up. Might never see NOS springs for this type shifter again.
2 Vintage Sturmey Archer Trigger Springs K738 Raleigh Rudge Humber etc SG5 | eBay
2 Vintage Sturmey Archer Trigger Springs K738 Raleigh Rudge Humber etc SG5 | eBay
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03-09-16, 12:56 PM
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I have several 4-speeds.
First, unlike the 3-speeds, the cones should have no 'slight play' in them.
I put the shifter in low and adjust the hub by pulling the chain out as far as it goes (you will have to spin the wheel of course) and take up all slack. The cable should be holding the chain as so there is no extra length available, but no more than that, if you put too much tension in low, the shifter won't hold it and it will be hard to shift.
I've yet to run into a shifter that could not hold low gear although I thought I was having troubles with that on several occasions. In all of those occasions I had the cable too tight. It should not be a big deal pulling down on the shifter to get it into low, but you do have to be patient with the hub when shifting (for example, if you get a false neutral in 3rd gear, try going to high and then shift back down and see if that clears it. If not, a slight adjustment of the cable might be in order) as it might not be quite as snappy as an AW.
If the hub does not need lubrication (isn't gummed up or the like) then this method of making sure the cable is just barely tight enough in low will see to it that you don't get any false neutral operation.
First, unlike the 3-speeds, the cones should have no 'slight play' in them.
I put the shifter in low and adjust the hub by pulling the chain out as far as it goes (you will have to spin the wheel of course) and take up all slack. The cable should be holding the chain as so there is no extra length available, but no more than that, if you put too much tension in low, the shifter won't hold it and it will be hard to shift.
I've yet to run into a shifter that could not hold low gear although I thought I was having troubles with that on several occasions. In all of those occasions I had the cable too tight. It should not be a big deal pulling down on the shifter to get it into low, but you do have to be patient with the hub when shifting (for example, if you get a false neutral in 3rd gear, try going to high and then shift back down and see if that clears it. If not, a slight adjustment of the cable might be in order) as it might not be quite as snappy as an AW.
If the hub does not need lubrication (isn't gummed up or the like) then this method of making sure the cable is just barely tight enough in low will see to it that you don't get any false neutral operation.
