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Why should tire labels line up with valves?

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Why should tire labels line up with valves?

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Old 06-11-08, 10:22 AM
  #1  
njm
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Why should tire labels line up with valves?

I have a quick question: the other day I had to change a tube due to a flat, and when I put my tire on the wheel, I lined up the tire's label with the valve. As I did this I thought, this is in the OCP instruction manual, and if I don't do it and take a photo of the bike, I'll get in Big Trouble on BF.

My question is, is there a rational reason for doing this? Or is it just one of those conventions that has been passed along person to person?

Also, do I look like a n00b if I have the sticky labels on my rims? They are traditional-looking aluminum Mavic CXP-22s with 32 stainless steel spokes.
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Old 06-11-08, 10:32 AM
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When you get a flat, checking for something stuck in the tire is quicker if you know which part of the tire was next to the hole in the tube.
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Old 06-11-08, 10:35 AM
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Read the Psimet tip of the day thread for all things regarding tire orientation. There is a reason that goes beyond looks.
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Old 06-11-08, 11:25 AM
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Dang, u mean there's a practical reason?!! I just did it 'coz seemed like the thing to do!
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Old 06-11-08, 11:31 AM
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but if you want the wheel to roll smoothly, you need the label 180 degrees from the valve so the weight offsets.
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Old 06-11-08, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by ephemeron
When you get a flat, checking for something stuck in the tire is quicker if you know which part of the tire was next to the hole in the tube.
Why? Do you take the tire off when you change a flat, or is it just too hard to find the valve hole?

Psimet: I dug through your other thread. You never gave a rationale for aligning the hub label with the hole.

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Old 06-11-08, 11:40 AM
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Anyone have tricks for knowing which way a tube was installed in a tire taking the 50/50 guesswork out of lining up tube hole to a potential item in tire.
Careful handing on removal is often not enough, especially with an impatient roadside 'helper' crew.

Al
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Old 06-11-08, 11:42 AM
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Yeah, but imagine you install a new tube and the valves don't match!!

But yeah, it's a good idea so you know where to look when you fix a flat, it looks better and is kinda of a pride in workmanship thing.

Last edited by Snow_canuck; 06-11-08 at 12:37 PM. Reason: Typo
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Old 06-11-08, 11:46 AM
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Alternatively, just remember that the valve is the really short spoke that doesn't reach the hub.

That said I line the lable opposite the valve.
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Old 06-11-08, 12:02 PM
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Pride in workmanship

Sheldon also agreed, and with the practical reason
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Originally Posted by cc700
i jam my thumbs up and back into the tubes. this way i can point my fingers straight out in front to split the wind and attain an even more aero profile, and the usual fixed gear - zen - connectedness feeling through the drivetrain is multiplied ten fold because my thumbs become one with the tubing.
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Old 06-11-08, 12:06 PM
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Cause it shows you have pride in your work.
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Old 06-11-08, 12:22 PM
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actually for the hardest of core OCP- offset the valves from the labels just enough so in pics the valve stems line up out of sight behind the fork/stays and the labels are prominently displayed (on the drive side obviously)
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Old 06-11-08, 12:26 PM
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wow - i've been cycling since 1984 and never heard of this valve stem/tire label alignment theory.
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Old 06-11-08, 12:29 PM
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I have Conti's with tire wear indicators. I put them where the valve is so that I can easily find them.
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Old 06-11-08, 12:35 PM
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And for the really OCD you should be able to read the hub brand through the valve stem hole.
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Old 06-11-08, 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by DDYTDY
And for the really OCD you should be able to read the hub brand through the valve stem hole.

Wow, that's OCP!!!!!
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Old 06-11-08, 12:51 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Pedaleur
Psimet: I dug through your other thread. You never gave a rationale for aligning the hub label with the hole.

</smartass>
Check here.
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Old 06-11-08, 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by DDYTDY
And for the really OCD you should be able to read the hub brand through the valve stem hole.
naw, more like pride in workmanship.
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Old 06-11-08, 01:01 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by shuffles
Um...I did. That's what I was referencing:

"1. Wheels should be oriented so that if there is a name or logo written on the center of the hub it will be right side up or readable from the rider's vantage point. If there is only logos on the rim then orient them to be readable from the drive side. There is actually a point to all of this."

He says there's a point, but the only point I see is "pride in workmanship," which may have it's merits, but I was asking for an objective reason.
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Old 06-11-08, 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by RB1-luvr
wow - i've been cycling since 1984 and never heard of this valve stem/tire label alignment theory.
I've been riding since about 1987 and have heard about this valve stem/tire label alignmnet theory.

I guess you started 3 years too early.


With the tube there is usually raised lettering on the outside of the tube that favors one side or the other. Put that lettering on facing the drive side. If there is no raised lettering then use the printing. If none of that stuff favors 1 side or the other you can always make a mark on the tube with a paint pen, etc. to provide orientation.

The orientation is there to help speed the troubleshooting of your flat. Sorry if I didn't cover it in the thread. It was my intent to. If you don't find and diagnose the cause of your flat when replacing tubes you will most likely be doomed to a second flat of the same nature within short order.

Pull out the tube and blow in as much air as you can from your mouth. Squeeze tube in the center and listen for the leak on one side or the other. Then squeeze the next section in 1/2, etc until you pinpoint the leak.

If it is a snake bite on the wheel side of the tube then it's due to underinflation. If it looks like a small half-moon indentation/cut on the inside then it's from a nipple/bad rim strip. If the flat is due to a long gash along the side then it was caused by overinflation or poor tire bead seating. All others are most likely from debris.

Find the hole. Use the valve as a point of reference. Search the tire casing in the proper location (using it's label - which was aligned with the valve as a reference). Remove debris or verify that the debris is no longer embedded in the tire. Inspect the tire casing for damage. Boot if necessary (use a $1 bill if you have no other suitable booting material.

Proper orientation speeds up this process.

...and yes, poor orientation says a lot about one's attention to detail/quality of their work.
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Old 06-11-08, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by merlinextraligh
but if you want the wheel to roll smoothly, you need the label 180 degrees from the valve so the weight offsets.
...actually, with aluminum rims, the rim seam is heavier than the valve stem with the valve stem holes cut through the rim. If you lift the front off the ground, the wheel will reach equilibrium with the valve stem on top. So, leave the label at the valve stem
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Old 06-11-08, 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Psimet2001
...and yes, poor orientation says a lot about one's attention to detail/quality of their work.
I will agree to attention to detail, but it says nothing (directly) of the quality of work.

The quality of work stands on its own.
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Old 06-11-08, 01:31 PM
  #23  
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having changed hundreds of motorcycle tires...

Dunlop, Michelin, et al always put a mark- (a yellow circle, orange dot, something) on the sidwall of the tire.

this mark should always be put near the valve stem area.

the reason is- the mark is directly opposite the side where the carcase/belts overlap... marking the lightest part of the tire. because you are putting the stem across from the heaviest part of the tire, you are reducing the amount of weight you need to balance the wheel system.



maybe this whole bicycle tire label thing is a ******* myth from the above truth.
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Old 06-11-08, 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by sleazy
having changed hundreds of motorcycle tires...

Dunlop, Michelin, et al always put a mark- (a yellow circle, orange dot, something) on the sidwall of the tire.

this mark should always be put near the valve stem area.

the reason is- the mark is directly opposite the side where the carcase/belts overlap... marking the lightest part of the tire. because you are putting the stem across from the heaviest part of the tire, you are reducing the amount of weight you need to balance the wheel system.



maybe this whole bicycle tire label thing is a ******* myth from the above truth.


******* = "b@st@rd"
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Old 06-11-08, 01:32 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Pedaleur
Um...I did. That's what I was referencing:

"1. Wheels should be oriented so that if there is a name or logo written on the center of the hub it will be right side up or readable from the rider's vantage point. If there is only logos on the rim then orient them to be readable from the drive side. There is actually a point to all of this."

He says there's a point, but the only point I see is "pride in workmanship," which may have it's merits, but I was asking for an objective reason.
You just didn't read quite far enough. Just two paragraphs later he explains what he has repeated now in this thread about finding the issue in the tire.
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