Race vs Endurance Geometry - if you had to pick one
#1
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Race vs Endurance Geometry - if you had to pick one
Getting close to NBD for me. I'm vacillating between buying a Trek Emonda or Domane of the same spec (SL5). The Domane is more expensive for some reason, but the spec seems to be very similar. Same 105 group, same grade carbon frame. The Emonda is a bit lighter and has skinnier stock tires. Anyways, they seem similar enough that it comes down to the geometry as to which will be better as an all-rounder. Domane has the endurance geometry while Emonda has the H2 geometry. My riding type is a combination of things - I commute, I'm doing Sufferfest, and working towards a fall imperial century after rehabbing a knee surgery.
Thoughts on which is better as the main ride in the stable? I'll probably leave my FX3 on the trainer.
Thoughts on which is better as the main ride in the stable? I'll probably leave my FX3 on the trainer.
#2
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Unless you're competing, I'd favour the Domane as a do-it-al rig. I love climbing but still favour the Domane for its versatility. A significant enough difference is the steering dynamics, the Domane being more stable versus the more agile handling of the emonda - something you might want to experience for yourself before making a final decision.
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True "Race" geometry is H1, H2 is a bit easier on the back.
I have a Emonda SLR H2 and love it. I also vacation every year in Scottsdale in February and rent a Domane SL and don't find it any easier on my body than the Emonda.
I have a Emonda SLR H2 and love it. I also vacation every year in Scottsdale in February and rent a Domane SL and don't find it any easier on my body than the Emonda.
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This is going to depend heavily on what’s most comfortable for you - I’m happier with a longer and lower geometry, even for comfort. If you’re coming from an FX though, I suspect you’d prefer the endurance - a race geometry could be quite a shock.
The Trek dealer should let you try them though.
The Trek dealer should let you try them though.
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This is going to depend heavily on what’s most comfortable for you - I’m happier with a longer and lower geometry, even for comfort. If you’re coming from an FX though, I suspect you’d prefer the endurance - a race geometry could be quite a shock.
The Trek dealer should let you try them though.
The Trek dealer should let you try them though.
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The way I see it, fit is fit. The end goal is to get a fit that lets you ride quickly and comfortably: if you can do that for 60 minutes, you can do that for several hours. On the other hand, a bike that you can only ride for 60-90 minutes or with significant discomfort isnt a good fit (you arent going to be putting out a lot of power if your back/core is hurting, either).
So IMO, Race vs Endurance geometries arent either-or alternatives - they are just shorthand for bike with different fit characteristics. Based on your body type, flexibility, core, etc, one will fit you better than the other. That's the fit to get.
So IMO, Race vs Endurance geometries arent either-or alternatives - they are just shorthand for bike with different fit characteristics. Based on your body type, flexibility, core, etc, one will fit you better than the other. That's the fit to get.
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The Domane is heavier and more expensive because of the IsoSpeed. IsoSpeed will help take the edge off of cracks and potholes and will generally leave you feeling fresher on longer rides; how important that is to you is up to you to decide.
As far as geometry, are you asking about things from a handling perspective or from a fit perspective? Geometry and weight will leave the Emonda feeling more responsive/twitchy, depending upon your perspective and preferences. Unless you'd be slamming the stem on the Emonda, the stack and reach differences probably aren't terribly significant.
As far as geometry, are you asking about things from a handling perspective or from a fit perspective? Geometry and weight will leave the Emonda feeling more responsive/twitchy, depending upon your perspective and preferences. Unless you'd be slamming the stem on the Emonda, the stack and reach differences probably aren't terribly significant.
#8
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This is going to depend heavily on what’s most comfortable for you - I’m happier with a longer and lower geometry, even for comfort. If you’re coming from an FX though, I suspect you’d prefer the endurance - a race geometry could be quite a shock.
The Trek dealer should let you try them though.
The Trek dealer should let you try them though.
#9
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The Domane is heavier and more expensive because of the IsoSpeed. IsoSpeed will help take the edge off of cracks and potholes and will generally leave you feeling fresher on longer rides; how important that is to you is up to you to decide.
As far as geometry, are you asking about things from a handling perspective or from a fit perspective? Geometry and weight will leave the Emonda feeling more responsive/twitchy, depending upon your perspective and preferences. Unless you'd be slamming the stem on the Emonda, the stack and reach differences probably aren't terribly significant.
As far as geometry, are you asking about things from a handling perspective or from a fit perspective? Geometry and weight will leave the Emonda feeling more responsive/twitchy, depending upon your perspective and preferences. Unless you'd be slamming the stem on the Emonda, the stack and reach differences probably aren't terribly significant.
I'm strictly worried about fit perspective. I have bad wrists and a bulging disc at C6 so a bad fit/poor position slays me even more than it would for healthy folks.
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You're looking at 1-2cm differences in stack and reach between the two models. Unless you can't get low enough on the Domane or can't get upright enough on the Emonda, you should be able to make adequate spacer and stem adjustments.
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When you're talking race geometry, it depends entirely on how tall you are. Head tubes have a more-or-less minimum length. Thus the shorter one's legs are, the less drop will be built into the frame. For endurance work, most folks like ~10cm drop. Go sit on them if you can. Nicer to not have a great stack of spacers under the stem - and have to order the stem uncut, etc.
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Ah, I hadn't considered the IsoSpeed. I've never tried it so I will have to see how that goes. That might be a difference maker, honestly.
I'm strictly worried about fit perspective. I have bad wrists and a bulging disc at C6 so a bad fit/poor position slays me even more than it would for healthy folks.
I'm strictly worried about fit perspective. I have bad wrists and a bulging disc at C6 so a bad fit/poor position slays me even more than it would for healthy folks.
Seems like the Trek dealer should be able to take some measurements and advise you on whether one or the other is a better fit for you.
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For the difference some mfr's have between race and endurance, it's more a matter of marketing than actual significant differences. New bikes that are supposed to be "race" come with plenty of spacers below the stem that put it back toward the endurance side.
So maybe it's more a question if you think you might want to get lower on the bike at some point in the future.
So maybe it's more a question if you think you might want to get lower on the bike at some point in the future.
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Have you test ridden them? Get the one that fits the way you like and has the ride characteristics you prefer.
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#15
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Go with the one that fits you better. Some years back, when I was a Specialized rider, my choice when I was shopping for a fast endurance bike was between a Roubaix and a Tarmac. Unlike most people (at least according to the marketing), I found the Tarmac to be more comfortable than the Roubaix. I went with the Tarmac even though it had a "racier" geometry. The Tarmac geometry just fit me better.
OTOH, I recently downsized from two bikes to one. Both bikes are comfy. Both are fast enough. I went with the gravel bike and sold my road racer. My choice was based on versatility -- and that could likely be a factor between the two bikes you are considering, too.
OTOH, I recently downsized from two bikes to one. Both bikes are comfy. Both are fast enough. I went with the gravel bike and sold my road racer. My choice was based on versatility -- and that could likely be a factor between the two bikes you are considering, too.
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Unless there's something really extreme about your desired setup, you should be able to get nearly identical fit measurements between these two bikes. The only difference will be the number of spacers under the headset, length of stem, where the seat is positioned, etc.
The reason racers generally don't like endurance bikes is because they are already running slammed stems on race bikes to keep their setup as aero as possible. Unless this is your goal, you should have no problem making either bike fit correctly.
That said, if you're needing to add a bunch of spacers or a high rise stem to an Emonda to make it fit right, you might be better off with something else.
The reason racers generally don't like endurance bikes is because they are already running slammed stems on race bikes to keep their setup as aero as possible. Unless this is your goal, you should have no problem making either bike fit correctly.
That said, if you're needing to add a bunch of spacers or a high rise stem to an Emonda to make it fit right, you might be better off with something else.
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The way I see it, fit is fit. The end goal is to get a fit that lets you ride quickly and comfortably: if you can do that for 60 minutes, you can do that for several hours. On the other hand, a bike that you can only ride for 60-90 minutes or with significant discomfort isnt a good fit (you arent going to be putting out a lot of power if your back/core is hurting, either).
So IMO, Race vs Endurance geometries arent either-or alternatives - they are just shorthand for bike with different fit characteristics. Based on your body type, flexibility, core, etc, one will fit you better than the other. That's the fit to get.
So IMO, Race vs Endurance geometries arent either-or alternatives - they are just shorthand for bike with different fit characteristics. Based on your body type, flexibility, core, etc, one will fit you better than the other. That's the fit to get.
And as has also been pointed out there is not a lot of difference between these two bikes if they are both H2 geometry.
So unless your fit as at the extreme limit you should be able to get it on either frame.
I have had both and prefer the Emonda, but the iso speed on the Domane does give it a bit of a more comfortable ride.
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#18
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I like the geometry of my TCR and as I'm losing more weight it's getting easier to ride. However in the last week I'm finding I LOVE the geometry of my gravel bike. It's a little more relaxed and thus more comfy to ride. I got a smoking deal on the TCR so I'm not complaining...
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#19
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I have a Spec Roubaix and an Emonda. Honestly the only difference I notice between geometries is that there is toe overlap with the Emonda.
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An size 58 Emonda has 57.3cm Effective Top Tube, 391mm reach and 596mm stack. A size 58 Roubaix has a 579mm top tube, 392mm reach, and 630mm stack.
The question is how is the over 3cm of additional stack achieved on the Roubaix, given that the Headtube Length for the Emonda is 19cm, while for the Roubaix, it's only 17cm?
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Random question comparing these 2 geometries.. and would help me better understand what feeds into a bike's geometry:
An size 58 Emonda has 57.3cm Effective Top Tube, 391mm reach and 596mm stack. A size 58 Roubaix has a 579mm top tube, 392mm reach, and 630mm stack.
The question is how is the over 3cm of additional stack achieved on the Roubaix, given that the Headtube Length for the Emonda is 19cm, while for the Roubaix, it's only 17cm?
An size 58 Emonda has 57.3cm Effective Top Tube, 391mm reach and 596mm stack. A size 58 Roubaix has a 579mm top tube, 392mm reach, and 630mm stack.
The question is how is the over 3cm of additional stack achieved on the Roubaix, given that the Headtube Length for the Emonda is 19cm, while for the Roubaix, it's only 17cm?
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If you have a significant amount of stopping on your commute, you might consider bb drop. It can make the difference between a comfortable toe down at a light vs floundering around to dismount. As others have mentioned, you should be able to get very similar fit on either bike but you want to avoid a clown stack of spacers under the stem. Tire clearance might also matter but most new bikes will clear at least a 28mm. Trek website was too slow for me to check. Everyone must be shopping
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If you are "floundering around", you have another problem (which you shouldn't be trying to solve with a slightly lower BB).
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I think this must be a good part of the 5cm unexplained difference. ie. Most brands' endurance bikes that list 63cm of stack have ~22cm headtubes (not 17). Thanks.