Quick release?
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Quick release?
Does anyone know if it's possible to add a quick release to existing wheel that doesn't have it? Would make things very easier for traveling
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Alta California
Posts: 14,244
Mentioned: 415 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3803 Post(s)
Liked 3,324 Times
in
2,170 Posts
-----
a quick release requires a hollow axle
so if the present axle is solid one would need to replace it with a hollow one in order to convert the hub to quick release
if you do not wish to do this one option might be to change from hex nuts for holding the wheel in the frame to wing nuts
this would permit you to remove and re-insert the front wheel without tools...
-----
a quick release requires a hollow axle
so if the present axle is solid one would need to replace it with a hollow one in order to convert the hub to quick release
if you do not wish to do this one option might be to change from hex nuts for holding the wheel in the frame to wing nuts
this would permit you to remove and re-insert the front wheel without tools...
-----
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada - burrrrr!
Posts: 11,674
Bikes: 1958 Rabeneick 120D, 1968 Legnano Gran Premio, 196? Torpado Professional, 2000 Marinoni Piuma
Mentioned: 210 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1372 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,749 Times
in
937 Posts
The answer is, usually, yes. You will also need to address drop thickness concerns, should they present themselves. This wee bit of advice applies to derailleur hubs, not those of an internally geared nature. This Torpado is an example of switching from nutted to quick release...
I had to be sure that the qr axle did not protrude too far into/past the drop thickness. I also had to choose between filing the front drops to accept an axle that is slightly larger, in diameter, than the qr one or file the front drops. I always choose file the axle...
The concern here is the thickness of the pressed steel drop, which is generally considerably thinner than most forged drops...
The drop thickness is not the problem as the thickness is increased with the non-integral derailleur hanger...
I had to be sure that the qr axle did not protrude too far into/past the drop thickness. I also had to choose between filing the front drops to accept an axle that is slightly larger, in diameter, than the qr one or file the front drops. I always choose file the axle...
The concern here is the thickness of the pressed steel drop, which is generally considerably thinner than most forged drops...
The drop thickness is not the problem as the thickness is increased with the non-integral derailleur hanger...
__________________
"98% of the bikes I buy are projects".
"98% of the bikes I buy are projects".
#4
señor miembro
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Pac NW
Posts: 6,602
Bikes: '70s - '80s Campagnolo
Mentioned: 92 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3870 Post(s)
Liked 6,461 Times
in
3,194 Posts
I've done this several times with bikes I was planning to sell. The lbs here used to have three bins of used, inexpensive axles. They would cut/file the axle once I selected one, all for $5.
Those days are gone, and it now costs me $20 or more for a new axle found online that I need to cut down myself. I only buy road bikes with hollow axles now.
For a keeper road bike, I think it's a good idea to have a quick release on each wheel. Once you know the threading, look for Wheels Manufacturing branded axles. Tighten a couple nuts (like your cone and locknut) inside your cut line so you can clean the threads easily after the cut by simply unthreading the nuts. A hacksaw works great.
Those days are gone, and it now costs me $20 or more for a new axle found online that I need to cut down myself. I only buy road bikes with hollow axles now.
For a keeper road bike, I think it's a good idea to have a quick release on each wheel. Once you know the threading, look for Wheels Manufacturing branded axles. Tighten a couple nuts (like your cone and locknut) inside your cut line so you can clean the threads easily after the cut by simply unthreading the nuts. A hacksaw works great.
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 4,624
Bikes: iele Latina, Miele Suprema, Miele Uno LS, Miele Miele Beta, MMTB, Bianchi Model Unknown, Fiori Venezia, Fiori Napoli, VeloSport Adamas AX
Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1324 Post(s)
Liked 927 Times
in
640 Posts
I've done this a number of times. What I do is take a nut from the original solid axle and then go to a bike shop pr co-op and try to thread that nut onto a quick-release axle. When I find a quick-release axle that the nut fits I buy the axle and quick-release skewer. Then it's a relatively simple matter to transfer the parts from t he solid axle to the quick-release axle. Doing that way, I'm positive that the cones match the cups in the hub or hubs.
Cheers
Cheers
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: NW Burbs, Chicago
Posts: 12,048
Mentioned: 201 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3011 Post(s)
Liked 3,788 Times
in
1,405 Posts
Of course you can. Tullio was selling quick release conversion kits as early as 1936 through the Rene Bancal catalog. 56 Francs.
#7
Senior Member
Yep, done it numerous times, grab one of these and a quick release and you're in business...
https://www.huskybicycles.com/bicycl...w-qr-rear.html
https://www.huskybicycles.com/bicycl...w-qr-rear.html
#8
Senior Member
I was a very common operation once. It can be fast and simple. It's easier if your front hub uses a 9x1 axle. If so, you can reuse your cones and locknuts, etc. Sometimes front solid hubs were a little bigger (9.5 x 26 IIRC). If this is the case you would also need to purchase compatible cones, washer and locknuts, in addition to the new hollow axle and QR skewer.
Needless to say, if the current axle isn't 9x1, the operation is much more of a hassle. I'd strongly advise you to measure the axle diameter and threads before starting anything.
Needless to say, if the current axle isn't 9x1, the operation is much more of a hassle. I'd strongly advise you to measure the axle diameter and threads before starting anything.
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Berkeley CA
Posts: 2,533
Bikes: 1981 Ron Cooper, 1974 Cinelli Speciale Corsa, 2000 Gary Fisher Sugar 1, 1986 Miyata 710, 1982 Raleigh "International"
Mentioned: 97 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 929 Post(s)
Liked 1,289 Times
in
486 Posts
Wing nuts are way less hassle and work perfectly well. In fact that's what my Raleigh Record came with stock in 1968.
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada - burrrrr!
Posts: 11,674
Bikes: 1958 Rabeneick 120D, 1968 Legnano Gran Premio, 196? Torpado Professional, 2000 Marinoni Piuma
Mentioned: 210 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1372 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,749 Times
in
937 Posts
Wing nuts are way less hassle and work perfectly well.
__________________
"98% of the bikes I buy are projects".
"98% of the bikes I buy are projects".