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Painted my 1977 frame

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Painted my 1977 frame

Old 03-28-20, 05:36 PM
  #1  
ts99
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Painted my 1977 frame

update to: https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...questions.html

I had a friend who does auto body work paint it. I'm pretty happy.

I have the decals but am nervous about putting them on.

I'm even more nervous about putting on the metal cable guides and stuff, but I'm going to ride it, it's not a museum piece.

By the way, is there any backing to use on those guides to keep them from scratching too much?



Downtube before:


Downtube after:


Looking at the photos, they look a little different in shade, but I'm happy with it. I gave him the DuPont codes, gave the frame to him still painted, and he said he mixed and accounted for some yellowing over the years and this is what he came up with. Again, I like it. I told him just get close and I'll be fine and I think he exceeded my expectations. And btw, he did all the sandblasting and paint removal and metal prep.
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Old 03-28-20, 05:44 PM
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Hope you paid him well, bikes are always more work than anticipated.

I have one coming up to do... looking/not looking forward to it.
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Old 03-28-20, 05:51 PM
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Are you going to run cable guides for full length housing or stops for bare wire? Guides for full length don't really do very much and neatly trimmed tape stuck to the insides of the guides works. The stops for exposed cable see the full braking force and need to be bare metal digging into the paint. I'm guessing this was full length like my old Fuji Pro and the vast majority of the bikes raced in the mid-late '70s. We never used tape under, but then we had no idea we were riding bikes that were "vintage". To us, they were just bikes. We did all kinds of obscene things to them like racing and crashing.

Edit: beautiful paint job! I've used good electrical tape on steel clamps with OK results (as long as the clamp shifting isn't the end of the world). Do seek out good tape. Like duct tape the range of quality is big. I love the DT stop for the shifters. I ordered that for the custom of my username. The bike never did see Campy shifters, went to the top-mounted SunTours when they came out in the early ;80s and now spends its time as a fix gear. (Horizontal dropouts like your; just so I could. Never thought I would.)

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Last edited by 79pmooney; 03-28-20 at 05:59 PM.
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Old 03-28-20, 05:52 PM
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That's a nice Frame.

I like your Shoes too.
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Old 03-28-20, 05:55 PM
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If your worried about scratching your frame, go to the aircraft spruce website, pickup some 3M leading edge tape, cut to size, put it anywhere you are worried about frame abrasion. Apply using the wet method. Can also put it anywhere you think stone chips will be picked up, also makes great custom chain stay protector. Stuff is almost invisible once applied. Nice job on the frame by the way, love the color.
Tim
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Old 03-28-20, 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by ts99 View Post
By the way, is there any backing to use on those guides to keep them from scratching too much?
In Cambodia they stick plastic over the paintwork on motorbikes. It is often clear, but sometimes coloured, or with a pattern. This reduces the likelihood of scratching the paint.

On my bicycles, I have had them put it around the bar. It costs about $2. With a completed bicycle, it is not realistic to stick it over the entire bicycle. You could cover the entire frame.

You could look for something similar. The plastic is very similar, or maybe the same as plastic we have used to stick on book covers in Australia.

In Australia, there is also a product which you can spray on paint, and it forms a clear plastic or rubber layer. It can be used in places where the paint may get knocked a lot. For example, where a person's boots may touch paintwork when getting in to or out of trucks.

You could look for what is available in your country, and experiment with it.

If you come up with something good, share it so others can use it.
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Old 03-28-20, 08:13 PM
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For applying decals, I use extended-release masking tape to mark off the area where the decals will go. Careful measuring at this step will go a long way to ensure the decals end up straight.
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Old 03-29-20, 05:18 AM
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Hudson 308, great technique!
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Old 03-29-20, 06:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Hudson308 View Post
For applying decals, I use extended-release masking tape to mark off the area where the decals will go. Careful measuring at this step will go a long way to ensure the decals end up straight.
That is a cool metallic flake color thingy you have going on!
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Old 03-29-20, 07:35 AM
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How about putting a thin layer of silicone under each clamp? I've done that with front derailleurs.

Cheers
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Old 03-29-20, 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Miele Man View Post
How about putting a thin layer of silicone under each clamp? I've done that with front derailleurs.

Cheers
I don't see the need. I try to make sure that the clamped components are placed accurately so no fiddling is required. Paint can be slightly marred but unlikely broken.
If it's something like an umbrella pump clamp that may be removed at some point then I'll protect the finish.

BTW great job ts99 on the full repaint on your Trek. I'm refurbishing a '79 710 in the same color. Paint is very nice except on the underside of the drive side chain stay.
I had the color scanned at a local auto paint supply and they made up an aerosol can for me. Haven't tried it yet but looks to be a good match. (test sample) Had I seen your earlier thread I would have known about the 44437 code but I'm confident the scanned color will be right for blending in a 40 year old finish.
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Old 03-29-20, 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by IsleRide View Post
I don't see the need. I try to make sure that the clamped components are placed accurately so no fiddling is required. Paint can be slightly marred but unlikely broken.
If it's something like an umbrella pump clamp that may be removed at some point then I'll protect the finish.

BTW great job ts99 on the full repaint on your Trek. I'm refurbishing a '79 710 in the same color. Paint is very nice except on the underside of the drive side chain stay.
I had the color scanned at a local auto paint supply and they made up an aerosol can for me. Haven't tried it yet but looks to be a good match. (test sample) Had I seen your earlier thread I would have known about the 44437 code but I'm confident the scanned color will be right for blending in a 40 year old finish.
The OP asked for ways to protect the paint from metal clamps.

Cheers
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Old 03-29-20, 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Miele Man View Post
The OP asked for ways to protect the paint from metal clamps.

Cheers

So what.......you're saying I'm "off topic"? Like I said don't see the need.

GAL
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Old 03-29-20, 09:29 AM
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LOVE the metal flake blue frame !!!!!!!!

You do not see many of these.

FIRST one for me with this size flaking !!!!!
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Old 03-29-20, 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by IsleRide View Post
I don't see the need. I try to make sure that the clamped components are placed accurately so no fiddling is required. Paint can be slightly marred but unlikely broken.
If it's something like an umbrella pump clamp that may be removed at some point then I'll protect the finish.

BTW great job ts99 on the full repaint on your Trek. I'm refurbishing a '79 710 in the same color. Paint is very nice except on the underside of the drive side chain stay.
I had the color scanned at a local auto paint supply and they made up an aerosol can for me. Haven't tried it yet but looks to be a good match. (test sample) Had I seen your earlier thread I would have known about the 44437 code but I'm confident the scanned color will be right for blending in a 40 year old finish.
Originally Posted by IsleRide View Post
So what.......you're saying I'm "off topic"? Like I said don't see the need.

GAL
No, I'm saying that the OP asked for methods to protect his bicycle paint from metal clamps and that I gave him that information. Apparently he sees a need for something and that you do not. That's fine.

Cheers
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Old 03-29-20, 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Miele Man View Post
No, I'm saying that the OP asked for methods to protect his bicycle paint from metal clamps and that I gave him that information. Apparently he sees a need for something and that you do not. That's fine.

Cheers
And you have the need, it seems to get to 3100 posts. That's fine too.

BTW silicone is the most ill-used substance on the planet. Doesn't belong on boats or bicycles. Attracts dirt and becomes gunky boogers.
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Old 03-29-20, 11:21 AM
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I have had success using strips of 0.012 to 0.015 stainless, sourced from the hobby store, to protect between the clamp and the frame.

Leading edge tape is also known as "helicopter tape" if you want to search for sources.

I am starting to like the "green" masking tape over the blue masking tape for temporary use.

I don't care if anyone wants to get to 3100 posts or not.
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Old 03-29-20, 11:27 AM
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@ts99 - if you already have seen this tread then never mind otherwise you may find it helpful - https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...ng-decals.html
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Old 03-29-20, 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Whit51 View Post
Hudson 308, great technique!
Originally Posted by jdawginsc View Post
That is a cool metallic flake color thingy you have going on!
Thanks! It's powdercoat.
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Old 03-29-20, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by ts99 View Post
update to: https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...questions.html

I had a friend who does auto body work paint it. I'm pretty happy.

I have the decals but am nervous about putting them on.

I'm even more nervous about putting on the metal cable guides and stuff, but I'm going to ride it, it's not a museum piece.

By the way, is there any backing to use on those guides to keep them from scratching too much?




.
...here is one I just finished up, as a pandemic project.




A couple of things:

Getting the decals/stickers straight and centered in proper position is greatly facilitated by first inking off a set of center lines (in a cross pattern, one horizontal and one vertical) on the masking tape on the sticker's top surface. (Which is now present on most of the ones I have ordered lately.) You then apply masking tape around the tube you want to put the sticker on at each end of the decal position (use the decal to measure). Then use a ruler to ink the lines straight across onto the two pieces of masking tape at the place you want the decal centered. Line up the lines on your sticker and your masking tape as you apply, using the wet method with a couple of drops of Dawn in water (in a spray bottle).

All of this works much better, and your stickers are much better protected, if you do a final coat of Spraymax 2K Clear Glamour over everything after you have the decals applied, You need to mask off any chrome, but I don't see any on your frame.

If your friend is willing, he can do a clear final coat of some kind of epoxy hardened paint on your frame. Anyway, that's what I do on everything now. When properly hardened and cured, this clear coat is remarkably durable, and ought to help you with any issues you might have previously experienced with frame band clamps.
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Old 03-29-20, 12:52 PM
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Thanks y'all. As always, lots of great advice. This helped for decal applying and clamps.
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Old 03-29-20, 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by IsleRide View Post
And you have the need, it seems to get to 3100 posts. That's fine too.

BTW silicone is the most ill-used substance on the planet. Doesn't belong on boats or bicycles. Attracts dirt and becomes gunky boogers.
That's funny because none of it I've used to protect parts or paint on any of my bikes does either.

Cheers
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Old 04-16-20, 04:48 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by 3alarmer View Post
All of this works much better, and your stickers are much better protected, if you do a final coat of Spraymax 2K Clear Glamour over everything after you have the decals applied,
What about Armor All or something like that?
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Old 04-16-20, 05:10 AM
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Originally Posted by ts99 View Post
What about Armor All or something like that?
No
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Old 04-16-20, 06:08 AM
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Here's what I use to protect the frame from metal contact. I use it more on the back of bottle cage clamps though.




Comes on different sizes and colors. Just paint a thin layer on the surface of the attaching part that will contact, let it dry, and you're golden.
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