Need help solving rear shifting problem
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Need help solving rear shifting problem
I need your help in diagnosing and solving an issue with shifting in the rear cogs. First, after loosening the cable, I position the barrel adjuster to its most clockwise position. Then I assure that the pulleys are aligned under the smallest cog while on the largest chainring. Next I assure that the shifter is at the smallest cog position and the cable is at that position. Then I attach the cable to the rear derailleur by pulling it very tight and securing it with the bolt. The derailleur doesn't move the chain to the next smallest cog when I shift one click up. It takes more than one click of the shifter for the cable to pull the derailleur to the next cog. When I tighten the cable tension more with the barrel adjuster, it shifts up but won't shift back down. I can shift to all cogs except the largest (23), and the smallest (11). Both high and low gear limiting screws are set properly to allow derailleur movement to these cogs.
Help! I've invested much time trying to sought this out. I even bought a derailleur hanger tool thinking that perhaps the derailleur hanger was bent....it wasn't.
Components: Shimano 10 speed derailleurs and shifters.
Cassette: Shimano 11-23
Help! I've invested much time trying to sought this out. I even bought a derailleur hanger tool thinking that perhaps the derailleur hanger was bent....it wasn't.
Components: Shimano 10 speed derailleurs and shifters.
Cassette: Shimano 11-23
Last edited by hrdknox1; 05-13-19 at 03:25 PM.
#2
Really Old Senior Member
Symptoms are classic for sticking/dirty cable/housing.
Replace the loop next to the RDER. That's usually the biggest contributor because it gets dirt on the cable and the severe bend wears the housing faster.
If you can afford 10 speed, you can afford decent cable & housing.
Replace the loop next to the RDER. That's usually the biggest contributor because it gets dirt on the cable and the severe bend wears the housing faster.
If you can afford 10 speed, you can afford decent cable & housing.
Likes For Bill Kapaun:
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Symptoms are classic for sticking/dirty cable/housing.
Replace the loop next to the RDER. That's usually the biggest contributor because it gets dirt on the cable and the severe bend wears the housing faster.
If you can afford 10 speed, you can afford decent cable & housing.
Replace the loop next to the RDER. That's usually the biggest contributor because it gets dirt on the cable and the severe bend wears the housing faster.
If you can afford 10 speed, you can afford decent cable & housing.
#5
Senior Member
Ensure cable is routed through shifter and seated correctly and that housing isn’t binding up inside due to incorrect housing seating.
Check cable and housing is routing correctly to derailleur and derailleur pinch bolt.
Check for a kink in the cable near where it enters housing as that can cause binding. Lastly, clean and lube derailleur pivots.
Check cable and housing is routing correctly to derailleur and derailleur pinch bolt.
Check for a kink in the cable near where it enters housing as that can cause binding. Lastly, clean and lube derailleur pivots.
#6
Blamester
Make sure the shifter is in the correct position when you start.
So shift all the way down till there are no clicks. Then set the cable.
So shift all the way down till there are no clicks. Then set the cable.
#7
Sophomore Member
Join Date: Jan 2019
Posts: 2,531
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1628 Post(s)
Liked 1,057 Times
in
631 Posts
Maybe back out the "H" screw a little, so the RD "overshoots" the smallest cog a bit. Not enough for the chain to fall off or anything, just a generous amount of overshoot. I have done this before with some limited success.
I suspect that sometimes when we think there's enough slack for the RD to drop the chain into the smallest cog, but in reality it's just short of what's needed to do that.
I suspect that sometimes when we think there's enough slack for the RD to drop the chain into the smallest cog, but in reality it's just short of what's needed to do that.
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Golden, CO and Tucson, AZ
Posts: 2,837
Bikes: 2016 Fuji Tread, 1983 Trek 520
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 676 Post(s)
Liked 741 Times
in
430 Posts
A trick to get the cable tension right is to manually shift the RD into the third highest gear, stop pedaling, and leave it there. Attach the cable hand tight, and pedal so it drops into high gear. That usually puts just the right amount of preload on the cable.
Other than that, the common fixes have been mentioned--slight misadjustment of limit screws, friction in the cable/housing, improper seating of a cable end, mismatch of components. Sometimes you get a crimped housing end that's hard to see.
Other than that, the common fixes have been mentioned--slight misadjustment of limit screws, friction in the cable/housing, improper seating of a cable end, mismatch of components. Sometimes you get a crimped housing end that's hard to see.
Likes For andrewclaus:
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 33,656
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2026 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,096 Times
in
742 Posts
I believe you have both limit screws a bit too tight. Try backing both out about 1/4 turn and try again.
#11
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Maybe back out the "H" screw a little, so the RD "overshoots" the smallest cog a bit. Not enough for the chain to fall off or anything, just a generous amount of overshoot. I have done this before with some limited success.
I suspect that sometimes when we think there's enough slack for the RD to drop the chain into the smallest cog, but in reality it's just short of what's needed to do that.
I suspect that sometimes when we think there's enough slack for the RD to drop the chain into the smallest cog, but in reality it's just short of what's needed to do that.
Thanks for your help.
#12
Junior Member
Thread Starter
A trick to get the cable tension right is to manually shift the RD into the third highest gear, stop pedaling, and leave it there. Attach the cable hand tight, and pedal so it drops into high gear. That usually puts just the right amount of preload on the cable.
Other than that, the common fixes have been mentioned--slight misadjustment of limit screws, friction in the cable/housing, improper seating of a cable end, mismatch of components. Sometimes you get a crimped housing end that's hard to see.
Other than that, the common fixes have been mentioned--slight misadjustment of limit screws, friction in the cable/housing, improper seating of a cable end, mismatch of components. Sometimes you get a crimped housing end that's hard to see.
#13
Senior Member
I woke at 4:50am, read this post and just had to try your little trick. I was sleepy, half brained, but it worked, Great little tip! Kudos to you, sir.
#14
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Problem solved. I lengthened the cable loop at the derailleur. It is quite a big loop, but the shifting is now ideal.
#17
Junior Member
Thread Starter