best hitch mount bike rack
#26
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I have a Yakima Holdup 2-bike tray hitch rack that works very well. It's rock solid on my Durango. But it weighs 50 lbs. and I have to install and remove it every time I use it (it won't fit in the garage when on the car). If I were buying one today, I think I'd get the Kuat Sherpa because it is quite a bit lighter (28 lbs). The most weight I would ever have on the rack would be about 57 lbs, so the lighter rack would be fine. It's nicely made and looks good.
Products | Küat Racks
Products | Küat Racks
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#27
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I have a Saris Freedom and it's great. Light, sturdy and does not let the bikes move around a whole lot. I did have a Performance Bikes Transit Flatbed, it turned out to be a heavy piece of junk. I would never had thought the bolt that hooks the rack to the receiver would have bent the way it did so easily.
But the Saris, has been great the past few months I've owned it. Inexpensive, light, easy to use.
But the Saris, has been great the past few months I've owned it. Inexpensive, light, easy to use.
#28
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I notice that you didn't refute what I wrote, but instead refuted something else. I've helped trailer bass boats, and that experience didn't serve me when I was buying and mounting a bike rack. Go ahead and get a 1 1/4"-to-2" adapter, and mount a top-of-the-line class 3 heavy duty bike rack. I recommend the ones with trays. They're heavier, but easier, and you know that weight is irrelevant, right. Load it up with a couple of beach cruisers, and have fun. I'm sure it will be no problem.
#29
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I notice that you didn't refute what I wrote, but instead refuted something else. I've helped trailer bass boats, and that experience didn't serve me when I was buying and mounting a bike rack. Go ahead and get a 1 1/4"-to-2" adapter, and mount a top-of-the-line class 3 heavy duty bike rack. I recommend the ones with trays. They're heavier, but easier, and you know that weight is irrelevant, right. Load it up with a couple of beach cruisers, and have fun. I'm sure it will be no problem.
Lol, better re-read what I posted....I was trying to point out your statement was incorrect re; bassboat tongue weights,,and comparing them to light weight bicycles on a carrier...,,guess you missed that....and I don't ride "beach cruisers" but thx anyway
#30
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This is incorrect. I thought so, too, and so bought a class 3 (and therefore 2" hitch) bike rack, along with the 2"-to-1 1/4" adapter. I was gobsmacked to find that the adapter wouldn't work with my class 1 hitch receiver on my Prius. Class 1 and 2 receivers and hitches are 1 1/4", while class 3 and 4 are usually 2". However, the class 1 receivers have a tab welded inside the receiver box so that a class 2 hitch tongue (or the adapter) won't go in far enough to bolt. This is for a good reason -- class 1 receivers can only handle 200# at the hitch ("tongue weight"), while class 2 receivers can handle 300# at the hitch.
So I ended up buying a rack (and adapter) that I couldn't use on my Prius, which can only handle a class 1 receiver (because the hitch receiver doesn't not bolt to the frame, as is required for classes 2, 3, and 4). I finally found a great rack that is class 1 and handles 3 bikes (as long as they're lightweight bikes like road bikes). No way you'll find a tray rack for class 1, unfortunately.
If you're hauling your bikes on the open road, you really need to make sure you respect the specs of your vehicle, your hitch, and the weight of your rack and bikes. It would be very easy to used an adapter and a class 3 bike rack, with some heavy bikes, on a class 2 hitch receiver and have the whole rear of your car cave in at 70 mph on the freeway.
So I ended up buying a rack (and adapter) that I couldn't use on my Prius, which can only handle a class 1 receiver (because the hitch receiver doesn't not bolt to the frame, as is required for classes 2, 3, and 4). I finally found a great rack that is class 1 and handles 3 bikes (as long as they're lightweight bikes like road bikes). No way you'll find a tray rack for class 1, unfortunately.
If you're hauling your bikes on the open road, you really need to make sure you respect the specs of your vehicle, your hitch, and the weight of your rack and bikes. It would be very easy to used an adapter and a class 3 bike rack, with some heavy bikes, on a class 2 hitch receiver and have the whole rear of your car cave in at 70 mph on the freeway.
Sometimes you need to think outside the box...
Last edited by prj71; 07-18-16 at 08:29 AM.
#31
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Easy fix...Cut down the metal on the adapter that inserts into the hitch or drill out the tab that is in the way. You would never ever exceed the 200 lb. tongue rating with hitch, rack and bikes. Even if you were hauling 4 bikes.
Sometimes you need to think outside the box...
Sometimes you need to think outside the box...
When I was going through this process, I wrote to a couple of bike rack manufacturers to see how much safety margin I was working with, because as you suggest I was trying to think outside the box. They were adamant that doing what I was considering was dangerous.
Hold a tray in one hand, with a full glass of water on the tray right next to your hand. Easy, right? Now slide that glass of water to the far edge of the tray, and see how much harder it gets. That's the effect of increasing the lever arm on the torque felt at your hand. The weight of the glass of water, and the tray, are unchanged, but the force on your fingers if much higher. This is why the nominal weight of a rack and bikes is NOT the critical number, but the effective torque at the hitch opening. Add in the effect of the inevitable bouncing that happens at speed on even relatively smooth roads, and that force will be regularly and significantly increased. It's is a recipe for sudden, catastrophic failure at the worst possible moment.
#32
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Lol...I undertand the physics of what you are saying.
But again...you would never break anything with the weight of the bikes, hitch or rack ever. Keep in mind hitches are over-designed.
The class 1 hitch rating and the safety measures apply to those towing a trailer that may exceed the tongue weight. It's not going to apply to a bike rack like you think it does.
But again...you would never break anything with the weight of the bikes, hitch or rack ever. Keep in mind hitches are over-designed.
The class 1 hitch rating and the safety measures apply to those towing a trailer that may exceed the tongue weight. It's not going to apply to a bike rack like you think it does.
Last edited by prj71; 07-18-16 at 09:05 AM.
#33
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Lol...I undertand the physics of what you are saying.
But again...you would never break anything with the weight of the bikes, hitch or rack ever. Keep in mind hitches are over-designed.
The class 1 hitch rating and the safety measures apply to those towing a trailer that may exceed the tongue weight. It's not going to apply to a bike rack like you think it does.
But again...you would never break anything with the weight of the bikes, hitch or rack ever. Keep in mind hitches are over-designed.
The class 1 hitch rating and the safety measures apply to those towing a trailer that may exceed the tongue weight. It's not going to apply to a bike rack like you think it does.
You are 100% correct,,,my class 2 has a tongue rating of 300 pounds,,,you could load 10 bikes and still not hurt a thing,,,don't listen to those who over think and complicate things,,,,its a fricken bike rack and bikes,,,wth
#34
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Now I have a saris Thelma it doesn't touch the frame at all, and the bikes don't touch.
Good Luck.
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I had one of those too, my bikes still have the scars from the hook that goes over the top tube. If you bike has the cabled routed on the top side of the top tube, and you forget to put a pad between to cables and frame, your goint to lose some paint. And possibly some metal.
Now I have a saris Thelma it doesn't touch the frame at all, and the bikes don't touch.
Good Luck.
Now I have a saris Thelma it doesn't touch the frame at all, and the bikes don't touch.
Good Luck.
The best are tray racks that lock down at the tire locations.
#36
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If you end up buying an adapter,
I suggest you also buy a 'stabilizer' (see above).
It really helps eliminate a lot of the wobble.
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I have a Yakima Stick up, two bike rack. Picked up on Craig's list for $100, new its like 225. Could not be happier and if I had to pay $225, knowing what I know, I would. Very solid, reliable rack. The hitch was $100 and I installed it myself.
#38
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wonder if this one good
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-list...&condition=new
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-list...&condition=new
#39
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Love my Thule. Throw em on. Secure em down and it has integral lock.