11-30 vs 11-34 cassette
#26
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You have the 34 now, on your current bike. I would say take it up some hills this weekend. Work out a manageable 1-2 hour loop within, say, 20-30 miles of home with about 1,500-2,000ft of climbing, and see how you do. If you need the 34 on your current bike, you'll probably need it on the Infinito. If you don't need it now, you definitely won't after. No need to take it up the hardest climb, just something that you find a little bit intimidating.
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Woah, hey now, that's over the top. He hasn't done much climbing, by his own admission. So he probably won't be able to go up Mt Baldy this weekend or next, but there's no reason it wouldn't be within his range after a year or 2 of solid, regular riding in smaller hills.
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I went from an 11-28 to and 11-34. It makes me wonder how I was able to manage hills before the change. I really enjoy having a bail-out gear and a 30 tooth for when I want a steady, uphill pace that my legs can't [don't desire to] do in the 28 tooth.
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#29
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As you guys can tell by my post count I am new to the forum. The input here is helpful. My strength/endurance has improved in the last 4 moths and I hope it will continue. I made the investment in the bike because I felt like this was something I will be continuing to work at. At some point I will need to get working on easy to moderate grades and build from there. I am leaning towards gong the 11-34 route as every little bit will help in the climbing which if I am not mistaken is what this bike is partially designed for.
Appreciate the ongoing conversation and input. Forum following is fun. Over the last number of years it has been car and watch forums. This is a blast and helpful for a new guy. Keep the input coming.
Appreciate the ongoing conversation and input. Forum following is fun. Over the last number of years it has been car and watch forums. This is a blast and helpful for a new guy. Keep the input coming.
#30
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Woah, hey now, that's over the top. He hasn't done much climbing, by his own admission. So he probably won't be able to go up Mt Baldy this weekend or next, but there's no reason it wouldn't be within his range after a year or 2 of solid, regular riding in smaller hills.
The $200 upcharge isn't bad considering the chain and labor is included, but a new RD and Cassette is about $180 if bought later, but it's not clear if he gets to keep the swapped out RD, chain and cassette, or the LBS is keeping it for that $200.
#31
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My bike came with an 11-34T but I swapped it out for and 11-32T and 11-30T. I use the 11-32T most often but kept the chain sized to the 34T so I can put it back on if needed.
The downside of an 11-34T are the gear ratios in the smaller cogs. I hate, hate, hate the 11-13 and 13-15 spacing on the 34T cassette. Those are BIG jumps in the high gears. The 11-12-13-14-16 of the 11-32T works much better for me. The 11-12-13-14-15 of the 11-30 is even better but there are times I've had it on I wished I had the 11-32T. So for me the 11-32T is the best compromise. YMMV.
11-34 - 11-13-15-17-19 ...
11-32 - 11-12-13-14-16 ...
11-30 - 11-12-13-14-15 ...
The downside of an 11-34T are the gear ratios in the smaller cogs. I hate, hate, hate the 11-13 and 13-15 spacing on the 34T cassette. Those are BIG jumps in the high gears. The 11-12-13-14-16 of the 11-32T works much better for me. The 11-12-13-14-15 of the 11-30 is even better but there are times I've had it on I wished I had the 11-32T. So for me the 11-32T is the best compromise. YMMV.
11-34 - 11-13-15-17-19 ...
11-32 - 11-12-13-14-16 ...
11-30 - 11-12-13-14-15 ...
#32
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My bike came with an 11-34T but I swapped it out for and 11-32T and 11-30T. I use the 11-32T most often but kept the chain sized to the 34T so I can put it back on if needed.
The downside of an 11-34T are the gear ratios in the smaller cogs. I hate, hate, hate the 11-13 and 13-15 spacing on the 34T cassette. Those are BIG jumps in the high gears. The 11-12-13-14-16 of the 11-32T works much better for me. The 11-12-13-14-15 of the 11-30 is even better but there are times I've had it on I wished I had the 11-32T. So for me the 11-32T is the best compromise. YMMV.
11-34 - 11-13-15-17-19 ...
11-32 - 11-12-13-14-16 ...
11-30 - 11-12-13-14-15 ...
The downside of an 11-34T are the gear ratios in the smaller cogs. I hate, hate, hate the 11-13 and 13-15 spacing on the 34T cassette. Those are BIG jumps in the high gears. The 11-12-13-14-16 of the 11-32T works much better for me. The 11-12-13-14-15 of the 11-30 is even better but there are times I've had it on I wished I had the 11-32T. So for me the 11-32T is the best compromise. YMMV.
11-34 - 11-13-15-17-19 ...
11-32 - 11-12-13-14-16 ...
11-30 - 11-12-13-14-15 ...
#33
Senior Member
Perhaps I am lucky and not as sensitive to the gaps in gearing and have all three cassettes you mentioned. 11-30 and 11-32 on my S-Works Roubaix, 11-34 on my gravel bike. I always seam to find a gear I am comfortable in. There has been many rides where I enjoy having a low gear option. I will take that tradeoff anytime.
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#34
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Just why is Shimano so invested in lots of 11-xx options but not much, if anything in 12-xx?
#35
Senior Member
My bike came with an 11-34T but I swapped it out for and 11-32T and 11-30T. I use the 11-32T most often but kept the chain sized to the 34T so I can put it back on if needed.
The downside of an 11-34T are the gear ratios in the smaller cogs. I hate, hate, hate the 11-13 and 13-15 spacing on the 34T cassette. Those are BIG jumps in the high gears. The 11-12-13-14-16 of the 11-32T works much better for me. The 11-12-13-14-15 of the 11-30 is even better but there are times I've had it on I wished I had the 11-32T. So for me the 11-32T is the best compromise. YMMV.
11-34 - 11-13-15-17-19 ...
11-32 - 11-12-13-14-16 ...
11-30 - 11-12-13-14-15 ...
The downside of an 11-34T are the gear ratios in the smaller cogs. I hate, hate, hate the 11-13 and 13-15 spacing on the 34T cassette. Those are BIG jumps in the high gears. The 11-12-13-14-16 of the 11-32T works much better for me. The 11-12-13-14-15 of the 11-30 is even better but there are times I've had it on I wished I had the 11-32T. So for me the 11-32T is the best compromise. YMMV.
11-34 - 11-13-15-17-19 ...
11-32 - 11-12-13-14-16 ...
11-30 - 11-12-13-14-15 ...
#36
Senior Member
I just got my new bike today and I swapped out the 11-30 it came with for an 11-34 without any hesitation. The 11-34 setup was one of the things I liked best on my old bike. In my case I didn't need to change the chain or derailler, I just needed the new cassette itself. It cost about $100. I have a di2 medium cage derailler on my bike. I find that any time I hit grades of 10% or more, I really appreciate having the lower gearing. I can put out a lot more power if I'm able to keep my cadence up in the 70-80 rpm range, rather than trying to grind it at a really low cadence.
#37
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#38
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My bike came with an 11-34T but I swapped it out for and 11-32T and 11-30T. I use the 11-32T most often but kept the chain sized to the 34T so I can put it back on if needed.
The downside of an 11-34T are the gear ratios in the smaller cogs. I hate, hate, hate the 11-13 and 13-15 spacing on the 34T cassette. Those are BIG jumps in the high gears. The 11-12-13-14-16 of the 11-32T works much better for me. The 11-12-13-14-15 of the 11-30 is even better but there are times I've had it on I wished I had the 11-32T. So for me the 11-32T is the best compromise. YMMV.
11-34 - 11-13-15-17-19 ...
11-32 - 11-12-13-14-16 ...
11-30 - 11-12-13-14-15 ...
The downside of an 11-34T are the gear ratios in the smaller cogs. I hate, hate, hate the 11-13 and 13-15 spacing on the 34T cassette. Those are BIG jumps in the high gears. The 11-12-13-14-16 of the 11-32T works much better for me. The 11-12-13-14-15 of the 11-30 is even better but there are times I've had it on I wished I had the 11-32T. So for me the 11-32T is the best compromise. YMMV.
11-34 - 11-13-15-17-19 ...
11-32 - 11-12-13-14-16 ...
11-30 - 11-12-13-14-15 ...
#39
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I stopped paying attention to new bike tech and what other people were riding about 12 years ago, after a 2-year binge in which I bought one new bike, build another, and rebuilt a third. I kept riding, some years more, some years less. So, reading this thread, where everyone's talking about running a 34 x 34 as a necessity is a revelation!
I feel like Rip Van Winkle, falling asleep in a world where my 12-27 cassette and 25mm tires were a source of shame, an admission that I was out of shape. And everyone pumped their tires up to the max on the sidewall.
Now, 25s are considered skinny, and everyone's running MUCH lower pressures, and an 11-30 cassette is now not only acceptable, it's considered not enough! I'm LOVING this new world! I just bought a new Canyon Endurace with a 52/36 and 11-34 in back, with disc brakes, running 28s and it's FANTASTIC! No more grinding up hills at 50-60 rpm!
I feel like Rip Van Winkle, falling asleep in a world where my 12-27 cassette and 25mm tires were a source of shame, an admission that I was out of shape. And everyone pumped their tires up to the max on the sidewall.
Now, 25s are considered skinny, and everyone's running MUCH lower pressures, and an 11-30 cassette is now not only acceptable, it's considered not enough! I'm LOVING this new world! I just bought a new Canyon Endurace with a 52/36 and 11-34 in back, with disc brakes, running 28s and it's FANTASTIC! No more grinding up hills at 50-60 rpm!
#40
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I didn't mean to come of rude, but just meant to say that he already has a bike that has the gearing he's considering. If it doesn't suffice to do the hills he's looking at then perhaps just the ride the bike that's on order.
The $200 upcharge isn't bad considering the chain and labor is included, but a new RD and Cassette is about $180 if bought later, but it's not clear if he gets to keep the swapped out RD, chain and cassette, or the LBS is keeping it for that $200.
The $200 upcharge isn't bad considering the chain and labor is included, but a new RD and Cassette is about $180 if bought later, but it's not clear if he gets to keep the swapped out RD, chain and cassette, or the LBS is keeping it for that $200.
#41
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When you get a rd that accommodates 34t, you can still easily put in a narrower range cassette. That's what I did for STP, replaced my 11-34 for a 12-25 (105).
I've thought of putting together a custom sprocket combination, but never have due to laziness. Over time with my 11-34, I find that I don't mind the gear jumps between the small sprockets as much as I expected.
I've thought of putting together a custom sprocket combination, but never have due to laziness. Over time with my 11-34, I find that I don't mind the gear jumps between the small sprockets as much as I expected.
#42
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except for a dozen or less of flattish roads (carpinteria to ventura bike path, pch from mugu to dume, pch from newport to dana point, pch from oceanside to del mar,
the flat parts of hidden valley rd in jtnp, a few stretches in anza-borrego state park and mojave national preserve and palos verdes drives south and west),
the most scenic roads in socal are in the mountains. east camino cielo. hwy 33. fig mountain. big/little tujunga, hwy 2/ach. hwy 243. hwy 18. hwy 330. hwy 38. hwy 39.
hwy 74 in both the santa ana mtns and the san jacinto mtns. hwy 79 through the san diego backcountry. s6/s7 up palomar mountain. s1 through the laguna mountains.
s22 from ranchita down to borrego springs. stunt. piuma. fernwood. latigo. deer creek. yerba buena. schueren. saddle peak. mulholland. gmr. grr. decker. encinal.
lyons valley rd. boulder creek rd. santiago canyon. mojeska canyon. live oak canyon. de luz rd. sandia crest rd. (skipped a few).
if you want to experience the best of what socal has to offer, you're going to have to hit the mtns. and yes, that 34 will definitely come in handy.
if you're perfectly content with the flats, then save the $200.
the flat parts of hidden valley rd in jtnp, a few stretches in anza-borrego state park and mojave national preserve and palos verdes drives south and west),
the most scenic roads in socal are in the mountains. east camino cielo. hwy 33. fig mountain. big/little tujunga, hwy 2/ach. hwy 243. hwy 18. hwy 330. hwy 38. hwy 39.
hwy 74 in both the santa ana mtns and the san jacinto mtns. hwy 79 through the san diego backcountry. s6/s7 up palomar mountain. s1 through the laguna mountains.
s22 from ranchita down to borrego springs. stunt. piuma. fernwood. latigo. deer creek. yerba buena. schueren. saddle peak. mulholland. gmr. grr. decker. encinal.
lyons valley rd. boulder creek rd. santiago canyon. mojeska canyon. live oak canyon. de luz rd. sandia crest rd. (skipped a few).
if you want to experience the best of what socal has to offer, you're going to have to hit the mtns. and yes, that 34 will definitely come in handy.
if you're perfectly content with the flats, then save the $200.
Last edited by diphthong; 07-16-20 at 09:33 PM.
#43
Junior Member
Thread Starter
except for a dozen or less of flattish roads (carpinteria to ventura bike path, pch from mugu to dume, pch from newport to dana point, pch from oceanside to del mar,
the flat parts of hidden valley rd in jtnp, a few stretches in anza-borrego state park and mojave national preserve and palos verdes drives south and west),
the most scenic roads in socal are in the mountains. east camino cielo. hwy 33. fig mountain. big/little tujunga, hwy 2/ach. hwy 243. hwy 18. hwy 330. hwy 38. hwy 39.
hwy 74 in both the santa ana mtns and the san jacinto mtns. hwy 79 through the san diego backcountry. s6/s7 up palomar mountain. s1 through the laguna mountains.
s22 from ranchita down to borrego springs. stunt. piuma. fernwood. latigo. deer creek. yerba buena. schueren. saddle peak. mulholland. gmr. grr. decker. encinal.
lyons valley rd. boulder creek rd. santiago canyon. mojeska canyon. live oak canyon. de luz rd. sandia crest rd. (skipped a few).
if you want to experience the best of what socal has to offer, you're going to have to hit the mtns. and yes, that 34 will definitely come in handy.
if you're perfectly content with the flats, then save the $200.
the flat parts of hidden valley rd in jtnp, a few stretches in anza-borrego state park and mojave national preserve and palos verdes drives south and west),
the most scenic roads in socal are in the mountains. east camino cielo. hwy 33. fig mountain. big/little tujunga, hwy 2/ach. hwy 243. hwy 18. hwy 330. hwy 38. hwy 39.
hwy 74 in both the santa ana mtns and the san jacinto mtns. hwy 79 through the san diego backcountry. s6/s7 up palomar mountain. s1 through the laguna mountains.
s22 from ranchita down to borrego springs. stunt. piuma. fernwood. latigo. deer creek. yerba buena. schueren. saddle peak. mulholland. gmr. grr. decker. encinal.
lyons valley rd. boulder creek rd. santiago canyon. mojeska canyon. live oak canyon. de luz rd. sandia crest rd. (skipped a few).
if you want to experience the best of what socal has to offer, you're going to have to hit the mtns. and yes, that 34 will definitely come in handy.
if you're perfectly content with the flats, then save the $200.
#44
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Bike comes with a 50-34 crank. I live in Los Angeles so there are a lot of hill/mountain opportunities. In the time I have started up riding again I have not done much climbing. Was wondering if this bike would get me into rides that have more climbing. Was one of the reasons for getting disc's. Honestly so for even mild climbs have been tough for me. So maybe have a wider range in the small gears is more functional for me. I can start that way and change later if I get stronger and start doing some climbing.
#45
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I have a 50-34 in the front and 11-30 in the rear, and while it is an excellent gearing combination for general riding, when I run into sections which are above 10-11% as part of a big climb, I find myself either having to go in the red, or pedal at a lower cadence then I'd like, or having to stand up - or more of the above, and I'm reasonably fit guy, although not a super light or strong climber (71-72kg, 20 min power of about 260 to 280W).
So, there are a couple of local climbs with super steep bits in them where I ponder switching out for a medium cage derailleur so I can fit a 11-34 in the rear, but I would still prefer 11-30 for most riding otherwise, since it has both nicely tight spacing in the higher gears and still plenty of range for most climbs which makes it just about perfect for a general purpose choice.
I'll probably stick with the short cage derailleur and just bear it on the extra steep bits which are mercifully rare, but it really depends on the gradients of local climbs, your fitness, your weight, and so on. If speccing a new bike from scratch I'd go with a medium cage RD just to have the option of running a big cassette.
So, there are a couple of local climbs with super steep bits in them where I ponder switching out for a medium cage derailleur so I can fit a 11-34 in the rear, but I would still prefer 11-30 for most riding otherwise, since it has both nicely tight spacing in the higher gears and still plenty of range for most climbs which makes it just about perfect for a general purpose choice.
I'll probably stick with the short cage derailleur and just bear it on the extra steep bits which are mercifully rare, but it really depends on the gradients of local climbs, your fitness, your weight, and so on. If speccing a new bike from scratch I'd go with a medium cage RD just to have the option of running a big cassette.
Last edited by Branko D; 07-17-20 at 07:11 AM.
#46
Senior Member
At 64 years of age the O.P. grew up when riders had hair on their chests, only needed five rear cogs, could pedal at different cadences and not whine about how a two tooth jump is upsetting his finely tuned rpm power range.
Go for the lowest gears you can find. They will come in much more handy than the 50x11 combo with its ridiculous 122 gear inch. At 64 he presumably also doesn't suffer the testosterone poisoning that the rest of us on the 41 suffer from.
Go for the lowest gears you can find. They will come in much more handy than the 50x11 combo with its ridiculous 122 gear inch. At 64 he presumably also doesn't suffer the testosterone poisoning that the rest of us on the 41 suffer from.
#47
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Since the OP is 64 y/o, I imagine he wants to prevent knee tendonitis, a 34:34 or lower ratio will help him to keep his cadence up and the knee stress manageable.
#48
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Thread Starter
At 64 years of age the O.P. grew up when riders had hair on their chests, only needed five rear cogs, could pedal at different cadences and not whine about how a two tooth jump is upsetting his finely tuned rpm power range.
Go for the lowest gears you can find. They will come in much more handy than the 50x11 combo with its ridiculous 122 gear inch. At 64 he presumably also doesn't suffer the testosterone poisoning that the rest of us on the 41 suffer from.
Go for the lowest gears you can find. They will come in much more handy than the 50x11 combo with its ridiculous 122 gear inch. At 64 he presumably also doesn't suffer the testosterone poisoning that the rest of us on the 41 suffer from.
#49
Junior Member
Thread Starter
You bet. 20 months ago I was hit by a car while in a crosswalk resulting in some very unpleasant fractures and knee reconstruction. Cycling rotation good, undue stress not so much.
#50
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At 64 years of age the O.P. grew up when riders had hair on their chests, only needed five rear cogs, could pedal at different cadences and not whine about how a two tooth jump is upsetting his finely tuned rpm power range.
Go for the lowest gears you can find. They will come in much more handy than the 50x11 combo with its ridiculous 122 gear inch. At 64 he presumably also doesn't suffer the testosterone poisoning that the rest of us on the 41 suffer from.
Go for the lowest gears you can find. They will come in much more handy than the 50x11 combo with its ridiculous 122 gear inch. At 64 he presumably also doesn't suffer the testosterone poisoning that the rest of us on the 41 suffer from.
BTW, don't assume that we guys in our early 60s don't suffer from testosterone poisoning. Indeed, we may suffer MORE from it because we're 20 years older and thus more fragile and slower to recover from doing something stupid!
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