shoota 

I'm so going to regret this but the wife could probably really stand to go 1X. Her Jamis Renegade has a dumb design with the front derailluer where there is a roller attached to the seat tube that the FD cable goes into. The problem is that it's wide open to dirt and pebbles. Once they get in there shifting doesn't happen. I'm tired of taking it apart, it's a terrible design. The bike currently has mechanical 10s Tiagra. What's the cheapest/best value way to go 1X? I'm considering cable and hydro options at this point.

Marcus_Ti

How hilly are your whereabouts? A narrow-wide wing is $80 or so:

https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/...yclocross-road

And another $25 for bolts.

https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/...hainring-bolts

And S/H and taxes yada yada.....of course if you need to rangey cassette that kicks up the price

redlude97

Set the limit screws on the FD to hold the chain over the ring she wants to use, remove cable. Done. Zero cost.

shoota 

Ooo. Both are good suggestions but I don't think either will work. Current gearing is 46/34 - 11/36. Willing to give up a little on the top end but not so much on the low end. It's hilly out here.

DrIsotope

I would go with a 38T narrow-wide up front, like a USA Made. Add some chainring bolt washers and you don't even need new bolts. You're rolling for ~$35.

u235

Is it a pulley at the bottom to convert a top routed cable to a bottom pull der? I have one on my gravel bike down by the BB and have more days in mud, grit, dirt than I don't. I have never had an issue with it. Maybe mine is a different design or I am getting lucky. Not trying to question a 1x conversion, just wondering.

shoota 

I don't think 38-11 will be enough for her.

Moe Zhoost

I have a 32t MT crank on my hybrid/gravel bike with an 11-32 in the rear. I have plenty on the top end to cruise at 20+ on the flats. I also have a road-converted to gravel bike with a 42 in front and an 11-28 (I think) in the rear. On it, I rarely use any smaller cog than the 13t. Why don't you have her stick in the 34 small ring for a while, ignoring cross chaining issues, to see how it feels and then go from there. The other suggestion is, using your current set up, have her pick the lowest top gear combination she can live with, and then calculate what size ring you would need with the 11t cog.

redlude97

i recommend you just keep the 2X working then. Things get expensive fast. For a 1x system with lots of range, you'll have to go to an XD driver on a new hub with a like an 10-42 paired with a 40t chainring, which would also require a new clutched RD like a GRX or RX800, then new shifters and hydraulic brakes while you're at it. If its post mount you'll want RS685 levers which are kind hard to find and expensive. Things add up quick

shoota 

Ugh. I was thinking 42 x 11-42, using a Roadlink to get the clearance needed to clear that big of a cassette.

shelbyfv

I'd further investigate the pulley. That design has been used on cross bikes for a long time, subject to mud and stuff. Maybe a different pulley. Also, might be trial and error, but top pull FDs exist. I think there were some Shimano CX series.

redlude97

You could try that but the gearing isnt as low or as high. A 10 speed 11-42 has some big jumps also

HTupolev

Use a top pull derailleur, throw a friction shifter at it.

fietsbob

so ? buy her a new bike..

xroadcharlie

They just choose the wrong derailleur. Thousands of entry level bikes with front derailleurs have worked fine for decades with reg maintenance. My last cheap 1987 mountain bike I put out at the road last year worked fine when I gave it away.

My new bike has a Shimano Altus front derailleur that performs very well. It's only when cross chaining that a little extra care should be taken, That isn't uncommon.

I'd just replace the derailler as suggested in the previous post.

Metieval

so I just happened to bookmark this last night.
I am tempted to buy a bike with Apex 10-42, not sure I will like the SRAM shifting though. regardless what I bookmarked may be of some help to you. pretty sure of it.

https://forums.mtbr.com/gravel-bikes...s-1078102.html

shoota 

The FD is fine, it's the cable routing that's the problem. It gets bound up by dirt and pebbles and there's no way to clear it out without taking it all apart. It's really annoying.


Thanks guys - you all confirmed some of the thoughts I had. Appreciate it.

gus6464

Sunrace makes an 11-42 10sp cassette. Put a 38t narrow wide chainring and you are good to go. Shimano RDs are very conservative when it comes to clearing large cassettes. And even if it doesn't clear it with the limit screw all the way out just add a roadlink and you are good to go.

xroadcharlie

I see.

I wonder if you could cover the wire and overlap the connector with one of those electrical wire sleeves they heat shrink on in electronics but don't heat shrink it. Or even a small clear vinyl tube from the hardware.

fietsbob

For those bits of hardware, a Re Direct roller was offered ,
to use bottom pull road Front derailleurs on Cyclocross style bikes, With drop bars,

with all three cables running across the top of the top tube up out of the mud on the CX course.

there were covers made to go over the re direct roller.
wouldn't be too tough to fabricate something out of a plastic bottle cap. 2 slots and a hole.

as suggested, now there are top pull front derailleurs ... made ..


But yes, now 1 by is the hot new trend..



what does she want?






...

FlashBazbo

Every 1x setup is a compromise. Works GREAT for MTB because the range of speed isn't that much. On a road / gravel bike, you've got to give up either top end on the descents or bottom end on the climbs. Take your choice. With 1x, you can't have it all. (That's why they invented 2x and 3x.)

I was running 1x on gravel before 1x became cool. (SRAM Force1 cyclocross crank and Shimano XTR Di2 in back.) The setup worked great, especially on the climbs, but I grew frustrated watching people with 2x cranks leaving me behind on the descents. I went back to 2x and wonder why I ever thought 1x was a good idea. (Although it was a cool conversation piece.)

shoota 

I can't believe this but... this is what happened.

She now has a 1X setup. 42 - 11/42. Hasn't taken it for one ride yet and she's already complaining about it lol.

fietsbob

Alfine 11 speed IGH may have been a simpler to operate option.

justin1138

+1 for this, especially if your wife likes the gear set up as it is.

You probably wouldn't even have to replace the current cable...

rosefarts

I really think it depends on what you use the bike for.

For some, gravel is basically road riding we ty a dusty diversion here and there. I think a lot of folks rode these conditions with 23s and 25s for years without a second thought. If that is your gravel, the but we should be geared like a road bike.

For others, myself included, gravel means dirt mountain roads. This includes washboards, sand, ruts, roots, and plenty of sections of mountain bike trails. 11-13mph is a pretty good average speed. 20% grades are always welcome. For the other stuff, I have a nice road bike. I ride 40nw with 11-42. Once on flat roads or pavement, I can comfortably cook along at 17-18 mph and with a tailwind, I can keep pedaling up to 27. Seems like enough for most people.