Nipper or cutter for SKS fender stays?
#1
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Nipper or cutter for SKS fender stays?
I'm installing a few sets of fenders in the next few weeks. I haven't found a good solution for trimming the stays that come in the SKS package. Any recommendations? I'd like to find a large cutter that will neatly do the deed without remobing the fenders and mess up the positions of the stays.
I've discovered a few approaches I don't like:
1. 6" diagonal cutter - not enough power / leverage, usually still need to file down the end
2. hack saw - inconvenient in terms of cutting a start groove and actually doing the cut smoothly - fenders wiggle and the bike wiggles
3. Dremel cut-off wheel - This heats up the cutting area to the point where the plastic fender is marred by contact with the hot metal.
I think the answer is a longer-handled cutter - either a nipper (end cutter) or a side or diagonal cutter. But what do you guys use? Maybe something like a cable cutter, that has a shearing action? I have a Park, but it's cutting surfaces aren't really very strong.
Can the pro mechanics tell me if I'm on the right track, and recommend some specific tools to hunt for?
I've discovered a few approaches I don't like:
1. 6" diagonal cutter - not enough power / leverage, usually still need to file down the end
2. hack saw - inconvenient in terms of cutting a start groove and actually doing the cut smoothly - fenders wiggle and the bike wiggles
3. Dremel cut-off wheel - This heats up the cutting area to the point where the plastic fender is marred by contact with the hot metal.
I think the answer is a longer-handled cutter - either a nipper (end cutter) or a side or diagonal cutter. But what do you guys use? Maybe something like a cable cutter, that has a shearing action? I have a Park, but it's cutting surfaces aren't really very strong.
Can the pro mechanics tell me if I'm on the right track, and recommend some specific tools to hunt for?
#3
Jedi Master
Here's what I do.
Takes a few extra minutes, but it's really not that big of a deal in the grand scheme of installing fenders.
- Install the fenders
- Mark the stay where I want to cut with a sharpie
- Remove the fenders
- Cut the stays with a cut-off wheel
- Re-install the fenders
Takes a few extra minutes, but it's really not that big of a deal in the grand scheme of installing fenders.
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Here's what I do.
Takes a few extra minutes, but it's really not that big of a deal in the grand scheme of installing fenders.
- Install the fenders
- Mark the stay where I want to cut with a sharpie
- Remove the fenders
- Cut the stays with a cut-off wheel
- Re-install the fenders
Takes a few extra minutes, but it's really not that big of a deal in the grand scheme of installing fenders.
#5
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#6
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We have a bolt cutter at the shop. then dress the end with a bench grinder or hand files.. and a hacksaw..
#8
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^^^ Yep. A small bolt cutter is what we used back in my shop days. It doesn't have to be large- the stays aren't that thick. Snip off the excess and file off the burr- you're done in a couple seconds.
https://www.acehardware.com/departme...utters/2195527
https://www.acehardware.com/departme...utters/2195527
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I used Hozan cable snips on a fender build and they never were able to cut another cable again cleanly. That was an expensive mistake. Now I use bolt cutters. Rivendell has a good video on fender installation, that some might like to watch.
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I have serious bolt/wire cutters (for cutting 1/8" and heavier SS wire. (Used to race sailboats.) I've also used a hacksaw with the fender off the bike. On most of my bikes, I set the fenders up for easy on, easy off, so marking them on the bike then cutting off the bike is easy. I too file or Dremel them after.
Ben
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I used a cheap set of bolt cutters followed by a quick smoothing with a file. The stays were easy to snip off, but watch out for flying shrapnel. When I got all set to cut, I laid a towel over the area to stop and catch the flying end. It's an easy job with bolt cutters but the cut-off end can do some serious damage to soft tissues. Be safe.
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Tape where you're going to cut with electrician tape then cut with large bolt cutters works well for me, and no sharpnel flying around that way. You could file it down if the cut isn't clean and the plastic end caps don't fit, but it's pretty easy to cut through the fender stays cleanly with a set of large bolt cutters. The steel is pretty soft.
Last edited by Branko D; 04-04-19 at 02:24 AM. Reason: spelling mistake
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Dremel, on the bike, with malice and forethought.
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In our shop we like to use a torch. Then we tell the customer their tires might need replacing!
#15
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Ok, well I like the thought about the torch!
Jeff Mills and other, I'm sold on bolt cutters. I'll swing by our local Ace (now sells Craftsman arr arr!) and see what they have.
I don't have a grinding wheel, but I do have nice files to clean up the cut ends.
Jeff Mills and other, I'm sold on bolt cutters. I'll swing by our local Ace (now sells Craftsman arr arr!) and see what they have.
I don't have a grinding wheel, but I do have nice files to clean up the cut ends.
#16
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Another vote for bolt cutters. And a small file for the sharp ends.
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WRT tool quality...Craftsman as a branding was sold to Black&Decker a few years ago. Buyer beware.
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I've never noticed fender marring after cutting the stays with a Dremel. But my legs finally convinced me to round with the file no matter how I cut the stays.
#19
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#20
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Umm, the hot metal melted the plastic. Had I sprayed it with water like Tyrion suggested, it would not have happened.
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I'd ask the Ace people what they think, TBH. My point was just that Craftsman used to be a top-shelf brand decades back--now it is just another cheapo budget tool brand riding on former glory-days reputation.
#22
Widely Despised
(Craftsman box end wrenches were always clumsy & thick walled.)
For cutting tools, I like Knipex (from Germany). But they're spendy....$40 or so for wire cutters.
But dang, they are good. Menards carries them....right next to their house brand (1/5 the price).
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I always liked Craftsman tools, but they weren't top shelf compared to brands like Snap On.
(Craftsman box end wrenches were always clumsy & thick walled.)
For cutting tools, I like Knipex (from Germany). But they're spendy....$40 or so for wire cutters.
But dang, they are good. Menards carries them....right next to their house brand (1/5 the price).
(Craftsman box end wrenches were always clumsy & thick walled.)
For cutting tools, I like Knipex (from Germany). But they're spendy....$40 or so for wire cutters.
But dang, they are good. Menards carries them....right next to their house brand (1/5 the price).
#24
Widely Despised
Craftsman Tool Co has a patent dated 1907, but this is a different company from the Craftsman
brand sold at Sears. (They made a strange roller jaw pipe wrench. I have a complete set.)
Sears bought the rights to the "Craftsman" brand from Marion-Craftsman Tool Co in 1927 for $500.
I'd have no problem with buying Craftsman tools from Ace Hardware.
Quality still looks good, & the guarantee is still forever.
#25
Senior Member
Another Joe blow guy who used bolt cutters and a file.
I would add an important point, if you are unsure of how much space to leave between the tire and fender, leave more than less as you can easily cut the stay a bit shorter, but you can't make it longer. (Given how the sks system encloses the top of the cut stay)
I would add an important point, if you are unsure of how much space to leave between the tire and fender, leave more than less as you can easily cut the stay a bit shorter, but you can't make it longer. (Given how the sks system encloses the top of the cut stay)