Adjusting Disc Brakes
#1
Rider From The Flats
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Adjusting Disc Brakes
I just bought a 2005 Giant Yukon(black) sweet bike but I am having trouble adjusting the disc brakes properly. This is my first bike with disc brakes that are any good and I can't seem to get the brakes tight enough so that it isn't very hard to make them lock up but loose enough so the pads don't rub against the disc. They are Hayes GX-2 Mechanical if that helps any.
Thanks!
Thanks!
#2
Senior Member
Mine were the same after many many tunings. I just couldn't get them to lock up at all no matter how well they were set up.
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My Hayes mechs work fine... I've found that bringing in the non-fixed pad a bit by sliding the clamp up the cable a hair really makes them feel a lot better, it seems that there is a little play at the bottom of the movement of the arm the cable attaches to. Once I got them set up, all I have had to do is bring the fixed pad in a bit every so often.
With discs , as any other brake, its important that both pads contact the disc at about the same point so you're not "pushing" the disc one way or another. If it is pushing the disc, your brakes will feel mushy, just like a rim brake that isn't contacting the rim at the same time.
With discs , as any other brake, its important that both pads contact the disc at about the same point so you're not "pushing" the disc one way or another. If it is pushing the disc, your brakes will feel mushy, just like a rim brake that isn't contacting the rim at the same time.
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yea that is kinda how my brakes feel when i press the brakes relatively hard. I sometimes also watch the disc move when i press the brake. like the part of the disc that gets the most contact moves until it hits the fixed pad. And then when i move the fixed pad up a little closer the disc rubs against it.
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I have the exact same bike and the exact same brakes. I recently just replace the rear pads since they wore down and they lost their stopping power. The front still works fine. I downloaded the Hayes MX-2/GX-2 disc brake manual from the Hayes website. If you want it...here it is...https://www.hayesdiscbrake.com/support_downloads.shtml
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Yea i have the manual but it doesnt say how to adjust the brakes its the same one from hayes as the one i got with the bike and it doesnt really say how to adjust them
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Adjust the caliper so that it's centered over the rotor properly and not rubbing one side or the other. 2 allen bolts hold it in place, takes about 2 minutes to fix. Pull some extra cable thru while your down there to help reduce pulling the lever to the bars. Total project should take about 5 minutes or 1 beer...lol
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Yea sorry for anyone who posted tips as this all did not workbecause my rotor is bent. i was also wondering: do you guys think i should try and bend the rotor back myself or take it to LBS and get another rotor or get them to try and bend it straight?
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The only thing is, is that it is only bent just enought to make the brakes crap(not very much) and i only go to the city that i got it from like once every month but i guess winter is coming soon. Also i was wondering if i keep using the back brake will the bend get worse or would it be safe to ride with a bent rotor for a while.
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as long as the rotor isnt completely screwed up, like kinked or something, tweeking it should be fine. it sounds like its just untrue. riding an untrue is fine. the lost energy only makes ur legs stronger...i trued my rotor by bending the parts where the rotor touches the pads. wasnt hard, just tooked for-f***ing-ever. good luck bro
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Originally Posted by dirtjumper66
Yea i have the manual but it doesnt say how to adjust the brakes its the same one from hayes as the one i got with the bike and it doesnt really say how to adjust them
https://www.hayesdiscbrake.com/pdf/MX...EnglishWeb.pdf
3. Mount the caliper to the frame or fork adapter using (2) M6 x 1.0 x 18.4mm long mount bolts and (2) mount washers. Snug the bolts, but leave
them loose enough so that the MX-2 Mechanical brake will move on its slots. That means you need to loosen the bolts in the first place
5. Set lever reach adjustment per the lever manufacturers instructions. Doing this first prevents this adjustment from affecting other adjustments.
6. Loosen the cable fixing bolt on the caliper and spin the lever adjusting barrel down tight to the closed position.
7. Install the cable through its housing and through the cable anchor screw and washer.
8. Seat the cable housing snugly at the brake lever and the brake.
9. Pull the cable wire tight and tighten the cable anchor screw to 55 in-lbs of torque
10. Trim the excess cable and crimp a cable end on the end of the trimmed cable. Probably won't have to do this
11. Squeeze and hold the brake lever. While holding the brake lever, shake the mechanical brake to position it in its natural centered position over the
disc. While still squeezing the lever, tighten the mounting bolts.
12. Using a 5mm Allen wrench, turn the fixed inner pad adjuster counter clockwise 1/8 of a turn until there is a .015”-.020” (.38-.50mm) gap.
13. Adjust the amount of lever travel by turning the adjuster barrel at your lever.
14. Spin the wheel. Check that it spins freely and that the gaps, between the pad and the disc, are equal. If the gaps are unequal, or if there is drag,
readjust the caliper position by loosening the mounting bolts and adjusting the caliper as needed.
Hint: A white piece of paper can be used as a background to help sight down the disc looking for equal clearance between the pads and th disc.
I "fixed" the instructions to help you out
Last edited by Raiyn; 04-20-07 at 12:08 PM.
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Front disc brakes
I cant tell you how glad i am that i read your tip on the stationary pad...Right before i put my bike up for winter i do maintainance on it, couldnt get that mushy feel out of the front brake!! Just over looked that adjustment on that stationary pad...Thanks again!!!
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Originally Posted by EJ123
When I go fast the rotor makes a ringing noise because of the rubbing with the part that moves to clamp it. Does this happen to anyone else?
Personally, i think its a flaw in the design.Its a different story if the disc is bent though.
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Originally Posted by seely
My Hayes mechs work fine... I've found that bringing in the non-fixed pad a bit by sliding the clamp up the cable a hair really makes them feel a lot better, it seems that there is a little play at the bottom of the movement of the arm the cable attaches to. Once I got them set up, all I have had to do is bring the fixed pad in a bit every so often.
With discs , as any other brake, its important that both pads contact the disc at about the same point so you're not "pushing" the disc one way or another. If it is pushing the disc, your brakes will feel mushy, just like a rim brake that isn't contacting the rim at the same time.
With discs , as any other brake, its important that both pads contact the disc at about the same point so you're not "pushing" the disc one way or another. If it is pushing the disc, your brakes will feel mushy, just like a rim brake that isn't contacting the rim at the same time.
#22
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Originally Posted by Raiyn
You're welcome. Now please let this ol dead thread rest.
I thought you were the "search" police. Do you just look for something to gripe about?
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