Pain in hands...could poor saddle placement be a reason?
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Pain in hands...could poor saddle placement be a reason?
I have a specialized crosstrail comp which is a flatbar suspension hybrid.
I've been having pain in the palms in my hands that starts within a few minutes of being on the bike.
I replaced the stock grips with ergon ergonomic grips and have ordered new gloves, but it was mentioned in another forum
that bike fit, specifically fore/aft saddle placement could be a factor.
I currently use, and have always used a slight upward tilt to the saddle so I don't think that would be a cause.
Anyone have experience with adjusting saddle position to ease hand pain?
I've been having pain in the palms in my hands that starts within a few minutes of being on the bike.
I replaced the stock grips with ergon ergonomic grips and have ordered new gloves, but it was mentioned in another forum
that bike fit, specifically fore/aft saddle placement could be a factor.
I currently use, and have always used a slight upward tilt to the saddle so I don't think that would be a cause.
Anyone have experience with adjusting saddle position to ease hand pain?
#2
Virgo
I've read that fore/aft placement can have a big impact on hand discomfort/pain but have not had luck diminishing similar pain by means of this adjustment. The theory as I understand it - stand with your back against a wall and try to bend over - you'll eventually fall forward because too much weight forward of your center of gravity. Now move away from the wall and bend some at the knees - you'll note that you'll need as much rear behind your center of gravity as front ahead of it to stay balanced. If you have too much weight forward while on the bike you'll have to support it with your hands, causing hand pain. If I understand it correctly then, too much weight on hands would suggest a more aft position of the saddle is needed. I'm sure someone has explained it better than I have. I tried this on three bikes without success (two drop bar road bikes and a flat bar mtb) and said screw it, I'm going back to my upright. I did note that if I got good and hunched over on the road bikes, just at the point where I felt I probably looked ridiculous, the pressure on my hands that was causing the pain diminished. Problem was being that hunched over, my big belly got in the way and made it hard to breathe. And pedal. And have dignity.
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I have a specialized crosstrail comp which is a flatbar suspension hybrid.
I've been having pain in the palms in my hands that starts within a few minutes of being on the bike.
I replaced the stock grips with ergon ergonomic grips and have ordered new gloves, but it was mentioned in another forum
that bike fit, specifically fore/aft saddle placement could be a factor.
I currently use, and have always used a slight upward tilt to the saddle so I don't think that would be a cause.
Anyone have experience with adjusting saddle position to ease hand pain?
I've been having pain in the palms in my hands that starts within a few minutes of being on the bike.
I replaced the stock grips with ergon ergonomic grips and have ordered new gloves, but it was mentioned in another forum
that bike fit, specifically fore/aft saddle placement could be a factor.
I currently use, and have always used a slight upward tilt to the saddle so I don't think that would be a cause.
Anyone have experience with adjusting saddle position to ease hand pain?
Numbness or pain in the hands is pretty typical when trying to do longer rides with flat bars, although it doesn't sound like you're getting very far before it starts. Consider getting bar ends along with the new ergo grips if you plan on doing longer rides.
#4
Virgo
Lots of good discussion on bars/saddle position/ etc going on in this thread.
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I've read that fore/aft placement can have a big impact on hand discomfort/pain but have not had luck diminishing similar pain by means of this adjustment. The theory as I understand it - stand with your back against a wall and try to bend over - you'll eventually fall forward because too much weight forward of your center of gravity. Now move away from the wall and bend some at the knees - you'll note that you'll need as much rear behind your center of gravity as front ahead of it to stay balanced. If you have too much weight forward while on the bike you'll have to support it with your hands, causing hand pain. If I understand it correctly then, too much weight on hands would suggest a more aft position of the saddle is needed. I'm sure someone has explained it better than I have. I tried this on three bikes without success (two drop bar road bikes and a flat bar mtb) and said screw it, I'm going back to my upright. I did note that if I got good and hunched over on the road bikes, just at the point where I felt I probably looked ridiculous, the pressure on my hands that was causing the pain diminished. Problem was being that hunched over, my big belly got in the way and made it hard to breathe. And pedal. And have dignity.
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I too was having a lot of pain and numbness in my hands and arms when riding for more than a few miles. I tried all kinds of things before eventually giving up and going to my LBS. The sales guy rode out alongside me and watched me ride. Based on countless YouTube "How To" videos I had watched, I felt my riding position was good. He suggested however, a raised up stem. We tried three different stems before I settled on one I thought felt comfortable. I was told I could bring it back within 30 days for a different one if the one I bought didn't do the trick. The new stem worked great for me. Within a few days I was riding without any numbness and was really enjoying my rides more. If you have a LBS close by, maybe drop by and see if they have any suggestions as to what you might need to change. Good luck!
#7
Virgo
Just because you move the seat as far rearward as it will go doesn't necessarily mean it is far enough rearward. Depends on placement of rails on the saddle, the setback -- or lack of -- on the seatpost, and the seat tube angle. Did you check for "knee over pedal?" (Yes, that's just a starting point . . . but if you're still forward of KOP, then you'll need a change of equipment.)
Lets just get this out of the way and understand that I am not a "real cyclist", i.e. I usually ride a 3 speed at <15 mph in regular clothes. Little tongue in cheek there.
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The underlying cause of aching pain and numbness in the hands and arms is that is excessive weight is placed on them during the ride. Adjusting body positiion, seat position, or even stem adjustment can make the difference. A competent fitter can zero in on the root cause and suggest/make the adjustment or you can make minor adjustments yourself until you are satisfied. If the latter, I agree that a good place to start is the saddle. Besides up and down, fore and aft, you need to look at the angle. It is very common for a nose down saddle to throw your weight forward onto your arms leading to pain. Use a carpenter level to get it perfectly straight that should take a lot of weight off the arms. But if not conducive to riding in the drops or other issues then try nose down but only by a few degrees or fraction of the bubble. If this doesn't help, then the other saddle adjustments might - but mm adjustments can result in big changes so meme them small, keep notes, and you'll get there.
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YES! Former chiro here. Look-up both of these syndromes and note the anatomical interactions and their differences:
They could both relate to postural differences as the result of the measurement and position of any member of your bicycle.
- Scalenus anticus syndrome;
- Costo clavicular syndrome.
They could both relate to postural differences as the result of the measurement and position of any member of your bicycle.
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The "shallower" -- the lower the number -- the seat tube angle, the further rearward the saddle will go. On a medium sized frame, its roughly 1 degree = 1 CM setback. Meaning, a 72 degree tube will allow the saddle to be about 2 CM further rearward than a 74 degree tube (with the saddle at the same point on the seatpost). And, as for saddle tilt, you may want to try angling the saddle nose UP just a couple degrees.