Myosmith

My current road bike cost me $800 new with 105 shifters and drivetrain with the exception of an FSA crank and Tektro brakes. Wheels are entry level but decent. Butted chrome moly frame with carbon fiber fork. I don't kid myself, it is what it is, but it's comfortable, reliable, not stupid heavy, and a whole lot of fun to ride. At this point, it is not the bike that is holding me back. When I drop 40 pounds and can crank out another 30-40 watts consistently, maybe I'll upgrade.

gtrdave

Im looking at picking up a 2013 Cannondale CAAD 8 2300.
Yeah, I know it's the bottom of the barrel when it comes to the C-dale road series, but the online reviews are not horrible and for a casual road rider like me (I much prefer the dirt), I think the bike will do me just fine for a few years. I already have an upgraded wheel set to replace the stock hoops and I'm used to the Sora-like shifting of the 2300 because my decade-old Trek 1000 had the Sora group on it.
A new CAAD 8 2300 is probably better than that bike was.
If I take to road riding again (and that's a long shot), I'll upgrade to a better, more expensive ride in the future.

buck2769

Oh. Heh, I don't know what I was thinking. 5' 10.5", 32.25" inseam

side_FX

I am really thinking about embracing this philosophy. I am an on again, off again, waaaay off again cyclist who needs to get back on the bike. I am thinking about getting a Trek 1.2 or 1.5 and putting some sweet wheels on it. I just don't feel worthy of a 5.2 domane at this point. I don't want to be the fat guy on a bike that's way beyond my skills

gtrdave

The most important thing is not how much you spend nor what name is on the frame or even what group the bike is equipped with. It's if the bike fits you or not and will you be comfortable over the miles riding it.
If you're gonna be the fat guy on a bike...like I am right now...you might as well be the smiling fat guy on a bike.

RJM

This is one of the most boring videos I have seen in a long time.



What's his point again?



Seriously though, you can get into cycling pretty cheap by buying used and knowing what you are looking for and stumble into a deal. You don't have to buy new everything all the time. The more expensive stuff generally works better though and is nicer. Does a 2k bike work better than a 1k bike...sure it does. It probably has better wheels, better component spec, and the frame is generally better made. Not always, but generally. Now, a thousand dollar bike will work fine especially if you learn how it works, how to do a good tune up to it, and how to true wheels. A good $1k bike with quality tires will ride nicer than a $2K bike with crappy tires, provided they are both fit right to you.

CommuteCommando

There is a principle of diminishing returns here. $500 will get you a hell of a lot nicer bike than the $100 WalMart special. $1k will get you a bit nicer bike than you can get for $500. $2k will get you something noticeably nicer than $1k, and probably good enough for 90% of all casual riders. $10k will shave seconds off the time of a world class athlete climbing Mt. Ventoux. It would be worthless for me unless I was inclined to own it for the cool factor, and had money oozing out my pores. Think 60 year old heiress tooling along at 55 in a Ferrari.

MRT2

Kind of wondering if dude has stock in Bikes Direct or Motobecane. He could just as easily compared an entry level Trek road bike to a super high end Trek racing bike.

pgjackson

THere are PLENTY of new bikes that are of good quality in the $400-700 range. If you have a Performance Bikes store in your area I recommend you check it out. My first bike was a 2010 Fuji Newest. $399 new. Great starter bike. My wife still has one. If I had taken the advice of a friend of mine who was a cycling junkie I never would have started. He said I would need to spend at least $2000 to get something decent. What a crock. I walked in to the local PB store and found the Newest. I have upgraded over the years, but that Newest is a solid bike and I highly recommend PB bikes.

Smokehouse

I'm a bit late chiming in on this one...

Base of $2K for a good bike? I'd reply with "yes".

I rode one summer on a borrowed Specialized Roubaix and found that I was immediately addicted to riding. When the time came for me to look at my own bike...I spent a LONG time reading up on bikes, groups, wheels, tires, etc.

First off...screw used unless you literally know the guy/gal selling it. For me to trust my life/health with something...I need to know it doesn't have some sort of damage due to stupidity. If others want to by used, that's ok on them. Me? nope.

Then came the "carbon vs Alu" question. I knew I eventually wanted carbon and knew 100% that if I was going to ride long enough, I would land up on a carbon bike. Performance las little to do with it...I want one and that is it. If I didn't get what I wanted, I would waste $$ on something else....then land up dropping more on another. So i went straight for the carbon.

Bang...now I'm least in the $1500+ range.

Group...While I would love to have a Dura Ace setup...I can't afford it. 105 it is. It is a tried a trusted group known for high quality and durability. Carbon + 105? Often, $2000+.

I found the bike I wanted (2012 Specialized Tarmac 105)...waited for end of year clearance, and struck when I got a $2600 list bike for $2050 and it wasn't a floor model. It was a new in the box bike ordered from Specialized.

...and I've been extremely happy with my choice. have I changed the bike since then? Sure, "upgradeits" happens. But the story is...if you want Alu, buy Alu. If you want carbon, buy it the first time. If not, you'll be trying to hock the Alu bike in 12 months for half of what you have in it and be getting the carbon anyway.

mcmoose

Well, I'm even later than Smokehouse, but I'm going to offer a counter position (which others have voiced). Smokehouse had the good fortune of getting to borrow a Roubaix for a summer -- this provided an opportunity to learn what he/she liked in a road bike and wanted when buying one.

For someone coming at it cold, you might be better off buying a starter (aka entry-level) bike, realizing that yes, one day you'll want a better bike, and you'll be a better buyer when you do so. A few months ago, I wanted to buy a road bike. I hadn't owned a "road bike" (okay, a 12-speed lugged-steel bike with Suntour components) in 30 years. So, really, any decent bike I bought would seem wonderful.

I bought a Trek Lexa S, and it does seem wonderful to me. Is it a wonderful bike? Well, Smokehouse would say "no" (and so would most serious cyclists). It has Sora components. It's a 3 x 9, so hard to even upgrade without replacing the entire gruppo. It's "heavy" (although to me it's incredibly light, and, frankly the *bike's* weight isn't the limiting factor -- it's the bike's motor).

But to me, it's lovely -- the best bike I've ever owned! (That's the thing about humans, we notice the difference, or delta, rather than the absolute… so if you buy entry level, you're good for at least two more rounds of getting an incredibly better bike!)

The bike cost a bit over $700 on sale. If course, add CA tax and a couple "extras" and it cost a bit over $800. I figure I'll ride it for three years, then "reward" myself with the next price-point bike.

If I really knew what I wanted (geometry), I might have considered buying used or more expensive. But I really benefited from the LBS providing a good fitting (seriously, they spent as much time with me as the woman who was buying a $3200 road bike -- I was amazed!). And I got to ask every stupid question I wanted for free.

Get a "nice" bike. Get one that fits. Buy enough "stuff" to be comfortable and safe. Then go and ride like you're a kid again.

Have fun.

hhnngg1

$700 is the price of entry for an EXCELLENT entry level bike. Sure, the groupset isn't the fastest shifting one on the block, but a $700 LBS bike will be good enough for you to even race at into the highest levels as an amateur without a significant handicap.

I have both a DA cervelo that costed nearly $3k new and a $650 Giant Defy3 aluminum road bike, and I will honestly say that I am giving up almost nothing by riding the Defy3 save slightly crisper shifting. The ride quality is outstanding and handling is every bit as good as the Cervelo. It doesn't even weigh a lot more - like 1 pound more (despite being alu vs carbon.)

Get that $700 LBS bike and ride the heck out it. I'm not exaggerating when I say that in terms of speed, it will be 98% as fast as a 10k bike.

You only need to suffer upgraditis if you let yourself. If you don't fall into the upgraditis trap, that bike will offer you everything you need.

pgjackson

Great post. Sums it up nicely. Probably 95% of the people on this forum would not be limited by a $500-700 bike in any way.

Weatherby

Whatever you do, put fast tires on it.

BigJeff

But I can feel the comfort difference between entry level everything and upgraded everything.

yeah, less stiff is better.... something about compliance & stability

digibud

Decent bikes come at a lower price points that $2000 but if you are talking 105 carbon that sounds about right and that's what a lot of people are referring to when the talk about "entry" level for a "high end" bike. I would tend to agree. There is good steel and good aluminum out there and there's nothing wrong with that. Anyone looking for the best deal on a very reasonable bike need not bother with carbon but there's no question but that a nice carbon bike with 105 or better is a very nice thing and thus that is the common dividing line between really good bikes and everything else that is perceived as second tier.

pgjackson

Agree, but in all honesty there isn't much practical difference between a really good bike and a second tier bike. It's mostly perception, bragging rights, and personal preference.

hhnngg1

Again, as an owner of a Cervelo carbon $3k bike vs a Giant Defy aluminum composite $650 bike, I'd say you're giving up almost nothing on the alu bike. In fact, the ride quality on my alu bike is more enjoyable/comfortable than the Cervelo, which is a MUCH stiffer frame despite being carbon. (it's meant to be that way.)

wallrat

Buy a closeout bike. Go Ride Bicycle in Redwood City has great deals. For $900 you can get a 13 Cannondale CAAD-8 6 with tiagra , $650 a 13 Specialized ALLEZ SPORT with sora or $699 for a Scott 13 SPEEDSTER 30 with tiagra.

Icculus21

Like some have said, there are decent 'real' road bikes around for less than $1000 and perfect for starters. However, as happened to me, I outgrew a less expensive bike quickly and ended up upgraded. I actually waited for year-end deals and got a $1300 bike for $900. I was looking at used bikes on craigslist, ebay, and other sites for a while, but just couldn't find anything ideal and/or pull the trigger. I do think that stepping into mid level components like Tiagra or 105 makes a big difference over low end, but above that isn't necessary. You'll also find that quality bikes have real nice rides too, but size and fit are always important.

bonz50

watch for deals, I bough my GT GTR2 for $750 and got "free" clipless pedals and shoes outta the deal. would buy it again in a flat second for that price, its been an excellent bike.

stevebiker

If by the "price of entry" you mean going from a true starter bike to a good road bike, then yes, you'll need to spend about $2k.

That's assuming you've been riding for some time on a cheap clunker. My first bike was a $200 Schwinn from Walmart a few years ago. Heavy and cheap, but I built conditioning and endurance and developed an idea of what kind of bike I really wanted.

Then about a year ago, I bought a Scott CR1 for $1,800 -- on sale from $2,200 market. It's great. Full carbon with top-notch parts. You get what you pay for.

himespau 

I spent less than half that on parts and frame that I used to build up my own "first real road bike" with top of the line (for the late 80's when the frame was made) steel, and campy components. More than I'll ever need. Sure I might like something lighter at some point, but with a 10 speed triple drivetrain, if I can't get up any hills, it's on me, not the bike and it's infinitely lighter than the mountain bike that I put drop bars and front and rear racks on to make my commuter.

roadandmountain

LOL, yeah, not incredibly exciting, but I did skim through it in 2 or 3 min. I think he asks an important question which is: how much R&D went into the production of an $11K bike?

Obviously, very few people are buying bikes in the $10K+ price range, but there IS a market for production bikes which cost $4K to $8K.

He doesn't answer the question, but implies that the technology required to produce carbon fiber frames, cranksets, frames and other bits cannot be terribly sophisticated. His main analogy is between a motorcycle, which costs a few thousand dollars yet has an engine which revs at 15K rpm vs a bicycle crankset and hub bearings which only spin at 130 rpm max.

I remember reading an article by someone who visited a trek manufacturing facility and this person was stunned by what appeared to be very low tech manufacturing methods of the frames. This person stated that the framemakers simply stuffed and shaped carbon fiber material into a mold, which was then baked at high temperature.

I do think he asks a few legitimate questions, and the one above is the most pertinent: are ignorant consumers being hosed? He can't say, and I have yet to see any concrete figures regarding R&D costs regarding lightweight frames and components to demonstrate otherwise.

roadandmountain

For the bike alone, I'd be looking for a bike with sora. This is an arbitrary cut-off, but this is the entry level group with fully integrated STI shifters, so you don't have to change hand positions to the hoods when shifting. An alu/sora bike probably averages around $900 (w/o sales tax). So, close to $1K w sales tax, but without anything else (shoes, helmet, clothing, lights, bottles/cage, tools, etc.

You'd have to budget a few hundred dollars for all of those other essentials, but you probably don't need to buy every one of those items right away (save the helmet, a few basic tools, a pump, and a patch kit at minimum).

Realistically, you're looking at a total investment of about $1100 to get started with a nice alum/sora bike.

---

Or, if you don't want or need drop bars, save hundreds of dollars and get a hybrid with a flat bar.