Decent, inexpensive crankset
10-21-19, 01:57 PM
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Decent, inexpensive crankset
So my chainring has a little 5 degree or so play when I change pedaling direction, which I think is the swaged connection failing? Pedals and BB move a bit before thunking into place and bringing the chainring along for the ride?
If indeed that's the problem, have you got a recommendation for an inexpensive crankset that's not total crap? The local bike shop I loved and trusted has closed. Inexpensive for me is as far under $50 as possible.
If indeed that's the problem, have you got a recommendation for an inexpensive crankset that's not total crap? The local bike shop I loved and trusted has closed. Inexpensive for me is as far under $50 as possible.
10-21-19, 02:26 PM
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Buy an old sugino glp or gs crankset. Even though they are road cranks, they come in 144 BCD. Can find on eBay in that price range and it is quality stuff. Anything new for $50 is likely to be trash lol
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10-21-19, 06:07 PM
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I'm going to keep that old sugino crankset in mind if/when I build a beater single speed.
IMO vuelta pistas are the cheapest crankset that you can buy that can still be considered rideable.
For whatever reason, they are are much cheaper than they would be if they were re-branded.
You should see them at most for $50 and some change, and as cheap as $35 on some sites if they are on sale.
I would expect to pay $80-$90 for cranks like that.
(full 7075 arms, no pot metal).
The color consistency of the polished or semi-polished crank arm actually looks pretty good in person. Looks like good aluminum (that's not a thing).
Not the stiffest, not the straightest, but reliable and solid. I rode them for a long time with no issues. They were still on my bike ready to ride when I snapped my frame and had to retire it.
I also rode them brakeless (tons of force being placed on them constantly and randomly), and still a good pair of cranks.
Your problem sounds like a flared spindle hole on your drive side arm. It won't happen (or at least not as likely) if you don't overtighten your spindle bolt.
They have a specific torque range. Too light and you don't create a tight seal. Too tight and you flare the hole and the seal can't be tight because the arm can no longer get a tight grip around the spindle.
These things are also never perfectly straight, so you can also push one "corner" onto the spindle more so than another simply because of machining imperfections or your own error.
So every time you crank, a side motion happens that wears away at that imperfection and you again, have a flared crank arm.
So you also want to (very) lightly tap around the arm with either a rubber mallet or a hammer and a block of wood to make sure that it is as flush as possible before tightening.
I've done it more than once, with different kinds of cranks.
If you don't have a torque wrench, it's "about as tight as you would tighten your stem around your fork steerer, with 1/5 more of a turn for good measure."
Never as tight as you can, or anything close to that level of torque.
IMO vuelta pistas are the cheapest crankset that you can buy that can still be considered rideable.
For whatever reason, they are are much cheaper than they would be if they were re-branded.
You should see them at most for $50 and some change, and as cheap as $35 on some sites if they are on sale.
I would expect to pay $80-$90 for cranks like that.
(full 7075 arms, no pot metal).
The color consistency of the polished or semi-polished crank arm actually looks pretty good in person. Looks like good aluminum (that's not a thing).
Not the stiffest, not the straightest, but reliable and solid. I rode them for a long time with no issues. They were still on my bike ready to ride when I snapped my frame and had to retire it.
I also rode them brakeless (tons of force being placed on them constantly and randomly), and still a good pair of cranks.
Your problem sounds like a flared spindle hole on your drive side arm. It won't happen (or at least not as likely) if you don't overtighten your spindle bolt.
They have a specific torque range. Too light and you don't create a tight seal. Too tight and you flare the hole and the seal can't be tight because the arm can no longer get a tight grip around the spindle.
These things are also never perfectly straight, so you can also push one "corner" onto the spindle more so than another simply because of machining imperfections or your own error.
So every time you crank, a side motion happens that wears away at that imperfection and you again, have a flared crank arm.
So you also want to (very) lightly tap around the arm with either a rubber mallet or a hammer and a block of wood to make sure that it is as flush as possible before tightening.
I've done it more than once, with different kinds of cranks.
If you don't have a torque wrench, it's "about as tight as you would tighten your stem around your fork steerer, with 1/5 more of a turn for good measure."
Never as tight as you can, or anything close to that level of torque.
Last edited by BicycleBicycle; 10-22-19 at 02:05 AM.
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10-22-19, 06:41 AM
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There's this one, apparently the last one in stock - FSA Gimondi crankset. I kept looking at it and thinking, maybe, perhaps ... but no, I'll stick with the Miche Primato I've been running since '04 or so ...
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10-22-19, 08:58 AM
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Your problem sounds like a flared spindle hole on your drive side arm. It won't happen (or at least not as likely) if you don't overtighten your spindle bolt.
They have a specific torque range. Too light and you don't create a tight seal. Too tight and you flare the hole and the seal can't be tight because the arm can no longer get a tight grip around the spindle.
They have a specific torque range. Too light and you don't create a tight seal. Too tight and you flare the hole and the seal can't be tight because the arm can no longer get a tight grip around the spindle.
10-22-19, 08:59 AM
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There's this one, apparently the last one in stock - FSA Gimondi crankset. I kept looking at it and thinking, maybe, perhaps ... but no, I'll stick with the Miche Primato I've been running since '04 or so ...
10-22-19, 09:11 AM
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There's this one, apparently the last one in stock - FSA Gimondi crankset. I kept looking at it and thinking, maybe, perhaps ... but no, I'll stick with the Miche Primato I've been running since '04 or so ...
$38.37 on one site.
I have some other really nice parts and I woud pick them up to go towards that nice build, but they are not my style.
I like the look (and practicality) of the outboard bearing + flat, wide arm. Like omniums or aerodashes.
A lot of people probably feel that way and that's why they are probably on clearance.
Last edited by BicycleBicycle; 10-22-19 at 09:24 AM.
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10-22-19, 09:24 AM
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I have a torque wrench and sometimes use it when installing crank arms, but lately I've been using a simpler method: I take my favorite crank arm wrench, which is about 10 or 12 inches long, and I cinch those SOBs down as tight as I can get them. It's quick and effective, and I've never had a problem after using this method.
Just one dude's input... others may have different experiences.
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