Archerobx

Local shop has a Kona Esatto for $600. I'm going to look tomorrow. Anyone have experience with that bike?
Thank you
Ryan

https://www.konaworld.com/esatto.cfm

ShortLegCyclist

Are you looking at that because you specifically want an endurance road bike, or are you looking because it's $600?

Esatto wouldn't make my short list for the first (because it's aluminum - the titanium version would), but that's really a lot of bike for $600 new.

bruce19

I wouldn't discount AL. My Masi is AL w/CF fork and stays. Truly an awesome ride.

winston63 

I haven't any experience with that bike, but man, at $600.00 I'd sure be testing it out if I were in the market for a good priced endurance road bike.

I do have an AL framed Kona (Jake the Snake) and in most ways it's a pleasure to ride, though it's can be a bit harsh on rough surfaces. But by all means, check it out!

ShortLegCyclist

Certainly, I'm not discounting AL in general, just saying it wouldn't be on my personal short list. Matter of preference, I like steel and Ti better, which is not to say others don't find AL to be wonderful.

I actually have a Masi Alare, AL with carbon fork, that I keep in Chicago at my cousin's house that I ride when I visit and let him use the rest of the time (I ride 150 miles a week and he rides 150 miles a year, maybe).

Archerobx

The bike is last year's rental. I'm looking to upgrade from a huffy break away and a Kibuk.
I started doing triathlons and thought this would be good . But I know nothing about bikes

Archerobx

What is wrong with aluminum?

ShortLegCyclist

1. Least forgiving of all frame materials, because framemakers have to use very large tubes compared to steel or Ti to gain adequate strength to meet the needs of the stresses and forces of bike riding. So road chatter, microvibrations, etc. build up with AL frames causing a harsh ride, because the frame tubing has to be so overbuilt compared to steel or Ti. It's why you will rarely see a fork made of AL, even on AL bikes they will use steel or carbon for the fork even at the entry level. The difference in ride quality is often referred to as the "magic carpet" ride of steel. However... if you run wide cushy tires at low PSI, you can affect the ride much more than the frame material. If you must run 23's at 150 PSI, IMO you want steel if you are riding much more than a couple hours at a time.
2. Aluminum has a failure pattern that builds up over time, meaning every bump and ding your frame takes is causing permanent damage which builds up over time. When AL does fail, it cannot be repaired. Steel and Ti both spring back from damage without any lasting effect until a certain threshhold is passed, at which point they dent or fracture, but even then steel can be repaired relatively easily. Ti CAN be repaired but it's not easy and requires an expert while they say any village blacksmith can repair steel. That's why they say steel and Ti bikes are forever bikes that should outlive the owner. AL, not so much.

You can pick out a steel or Ti frame from far away just because they will generally have very skinny tubes (except for steel touring bikes) vs AL and carbon fiber bikes, which will have the larger tubing at least on the main triangle. AL CAN be made lighter than a steel bike, but just because it's AL does not also always mean that it is lighter than a steel bike.

Steel's ride quality, durability and ability to be repaired by non-expert bike builders is why the vast majority of bikes intended for long self supported touring are steel rather than AL.

bruce19

I was trying to say what you just said...that choice of frame material is a personal matter. My other bike is a steel Guru and I really like both bikes and both materials.

ShortLegCyclist

Guru made awesome bikes, real shame about their going bankrupt.

But at least their name and logo will live on in their bike fit system.

mpath

Not to derail the thread, but Guru will rise from the ashes in a different form....out of Arkansas: HIA Velo revives Guru's carbon manufacturing in Arkansas w/ all-star team - Bikerumor

Archerobx

So in yalls opinion; would this be a good starter bike for someone getting into triathlons?

As for the way the ride feels, I do not know what a good ride feels like.

Thank you s again for yalls help

ShortLegCyclist

There are tri-specific bikes that have steeper seat tube and head tube angles to minimize your quad use and maximize your glute use while cycling to preserve your quads for the run.

I can't imagine you would be able to get a new one for that price though.

That geometry was a direct result of the shortening of the cycling part of triathlons. Previously when the cycling part was a full century, that geometry wasn't worth the sacrifice in comfort. But now with the cycling part of triathlons only 25 miles on the Olympic version, you can get away with tri specific geometry.

So I guess the answer depends on how seriously you are competing in them. I would guess that the racers winning those events will be riding tri bikes and not endurance geometry bikes like that Esatto, which sits you up way more than a tri bike would.

Archerobx

I would like to do an iron man in 2 years. Currently I've done couple sprints. As for winning or placing, that won't happen unless everyone else gets food poisoning.

ShortLegCyclist

That's a good enough bike to serve that purpose, IMO, as long as you understand that frame material aside, it's not what a competitive triathlete would likely choose for competition just based on the relaxed, endurance geometry.

rms13

Sorry but just about everything you say here is outdated by about 10 years

ShortLegCyclist

OK, probably just goes to show that I'm an old fart now.

Shuffleman

If you are just starting and price is an issue, than its a good bike. It is not a tri specific bike but that doesn't matter. You can definitely compete with that bike and do fine. In most tri races you see all kinds of bikes. I plan on using a new steel kona bike I am building to do some tris. Would my carbon race bike be better? Sure but I don't want to ding it up. Use what you have or can afford. It puts you in the race and that is most of the battle.

Maelochs

For the price it will work .... great for training and since you already know you won't be on the podium, it will get you through the bike portion fine ... you will be competing mostly with yourself no matter what you ride anyway.

If in a few years you find that you want to invest heavily in getting better finishes, along with a training coach and stuff, you might want to buy a tri-specific bike ... but until then, this would be a fine beginner bicycle.

Archerobx

So another bike place is having a sale . I'm going to start a new post asking questions.

Thank y'all again

Hypno Toad

I bought my 2009 Kona Dew Drop for $520; it was a year old and the shop wanted it gone. After 15,000 miles, I will say it's not a great road bike, but it's a great bike.

My Kona has been a commuter bike, a gravel-grinder, CX racer, winter bike, single-track bike, grocery hauler (w/ BOB trailer), charity century bike, ....

Here's a pic of the Kona at the start a 135-mile day, including 100-mile gravel race:
IMG_20160611_055959309_HDR.jpg