iwing88

cool! my tire can last me a year lol because only ride 600km a year. wouldn't it be some left over residue if you don't clean up the old sealant and added weight too.

iwing88

finally got it setup over the weekend i find it the bearing is tighter then my old mavic hub. Do i need to run in those bearing in order to feel smoother?
Not sure it is because of new dt swiss hub need to run in.

i still cannot post any picture yet

iwing88

BTW do you need special pump for tubeless tire?

robbyville

im sure the hub will loosen up a bit. In my experience it is rare to be able to get a tubeless tire seated initially with a regular floor pump. Despite what many say, I have only been successful with one tire the gp5000. All others I’ve had to install the tire and find/use a compressor. I keep meaning to buy one but all our local shops let me use theirs.

I now own one of those Bontrager cannister pumps that basically store air and act like a mini compressor. As it pertains to seating a tire for the first time it’s worked once for me and not worked once for me. I don’t use soapy water when installing a tire but I have a feeling that if I did the pump would work better and the bead of the tire would slide into place.

long and short of it is you don’t need a special pump but it might help at times. Compressor is definitely best and pretty cheap at most hardware stores

CarloM

Yeah I'm definitely leaning towards buying a small pancake air compressor. They're only slightly more expensive than a pump + flash charge canister, or an all in one pump that includes that canister built in.

Wonder when Light will carry the new line of IndustryNine hubs. According to I9's site the Torches are discontinued (or at least they aren't listed anymore).

robbyville

I didn’t know that, I do love my I9 hubs. What is the replacement?

iwing88

how about those topeak JOEBLOW RACE pump? will they work? because i have one already.

robbyville

it’s a fine pump and will keep your tires well inflated but it may lack the ability to seat a tubeless tire at initial installation where you often need a large burst of air to push the bead of the tire into the rim. I didn’t get my current flash style pump until a few months ago. Just used a shop compressor to seat my new installations and regular floor pump for maintenance the years prior.

CarloM

They seem to be called the Classic (I just went to their site and narrowed the filters down to Road bike and Centerlock options and those were the only ones left.
As OP says, it's just up to the tire and wheel combo. On my Bonty Affinity TLR aluminum rims, for both Conti 5K TL and Panaracer GravelKing SKs I needed an air compressor. With my Black Inc 30s + Conti 5K TL I needed an air compressor plus my LBS's fast hands because the tire would lose it's bead even after being seated while he tried to get the valve core back. The core needed to be removed to get full air pressure from the compressor in to seat the bead.

But I also just watched Shane Miller (GPLama) on YouTube, just seat two Schwalbe G-One Bites onto his DT Swiss rims with just a floor pump. So it really just depends on the combo.

I'm going with an air compressor because of the other things it can do, in addition to inflating tires. A good example is that every few hundred miles, I like to do a full degrease cleaning and re-lubrication of my chains. An air compressor will let me quickly dry the chains after degreasing and rinsing with soapy, then clean water without having to wait for it to air-dry before re-lubing. I can also use it to quickly blow dust off of my balcony as well (where I work on my bikes).

MinnMan

anybody know the status of Light Bicycle Wheels given the current disruptions in China? Are the shipping as usual, or not?

noodle soup

Email them.

phrantic09

I’m super interested in these, but can’t decide the rim width I want (or more, if the 28 will fit my bike).

My bike manufacturer says max 27mm tire but that the contact point is this little piece that sticks out from where the brake bridge was on the non disc version. I’m assuming a wider tire will sit a little lower, but guess I have to measure.

Folks still like these?

smashndash

Poor assumption. I think wider rims usually keep tire height constant or even make it bigger. Think of a ballet dancer doing a plié. Similar concept. You’d only start reducing height once rim width exceeds tire width.

If you have “official” room for a 27, you can fit a 25c gp5k on a 21mm rim... but that’s about it. A 25c Vittoria on 23mm rims measures 30+.

I personally think the wide rim hype is mainly good for aero and MTB. I like mine but I wouldn’t recommend the wide rim/narrow tire combo to someone who doesn’t race. It’s like using ceramic bearings or a UFO chain or tubular tires for cruising. Impractical and not worth the marginal gains. But if wide rims get you stoked, then they get you stoked.

phrantic09

for me, it’s also about comfort and being able to use a wider tire on the next bike as well. If / when I order they’re going to include the end caps for me to convert from QR to TA and I’ve noticed a lot of the newer frames have more clearance. I don’t really care about the marginal aero gains, I’m slow and out of shape.

when you say 21mm, assume you mean internal width?

smashndash

yes internal width. External width is irrelevant for most discussions besides aero and brake clearance.

I have probably already said the following but whatever. Imagine you have 2 wheel systems: A is a 28c tire than measures 28mm on a 17i rim. B is a 25c tire that measures 28mm on a 23i rim. A will (probably?) be taller than B despite being the same width. This means you can run the tire softer without running into pinching or rim damage. However, tire B will feel less floppy at similar levels of softness.

Think of a car wheel/tire system. Oldschool 50-60 profile tires vs new “sporty” 30-40 profile tires.

If low pressures are causing squirm in corners for you, get wider rims. If low pressures are causing pinches and rim damage, get narrower rims.

Take this post with a grain of salt. I am a mere forum dweller.

phrantic09

that makes sense, thanks. I ride 25mm GP5000 now on a set of i9 wheels that are 19 internal and they feel pretty good

smashndash

Today was the first time I got to use my grooved graphene brake track in the wet. It felt a lot like my alloys. I had to clear the water from the track before I could get real power. And insufficient power would mean the water wouldn’t clear.

The biggest difference was that, if I got hasty and grabbed a bunch of brake to clear the water quickly, the brakes would BITE right after. So I guess it takes a bit more force to clear the water. Overall, I would not rate the modulation on this brake setup. It’s functional, but not very easy to use effectively.

The main issue was this:

^12 second clip. Seems like, at a particular stick-slip frequency, my bike starts juddering. Luckily, this only happens at low speeds. I also had a similar issue when using crappy brake calipers with sticky kool stop pads on alloy rims. The whole bike would shudder and it would sound like a train horn. But that happened at higher speeds. I assume this is a function of the stick vs slip characteristics.

The brake track also turned a bit white after the ride. I wiped it with a paper towel and a bunch of grime came off it. Not sure if it’s road grit or brake pad compound. The track color seems to be returning to normal now.

Lastly, the rims filled up with quite a bit of water. One dry-ish ride was not enough to completely empty the rear. The front was pretty ok. Thinking of figuring out how to plug the valve hole, which is the most open entryway. I have internal nipples, so it’s hard for water to get in that way. Some people on WW recommend asking LB for drain holes but that would definitely affect aero unless you put in a plug.

Just wanted to toss in this small update for anyone who might still be on rim brakes lol

bpcyclist

I just watched a video of theirs on youtube the other day, as I may be buying a set myself.. It indicated that, if you are in the US, your wheels are assembled and shipped from their USA location. Not sure if this is true for every order, though.

WhyFi

Definitely not. If you go to their site, you can build/price it out either way - US or international. If you go the international route, it's pretty much wide open as far as your build options. The US options are limited in comparison.

holybinch

tried to read the whole thread (yep, quite an endeavour) and mostly succeeded!
I joined just to do two things.
I haven't seen the tyre width chart from LB linked anywhere, and since the clearance on my bike is tight, it was information that could be useful.
unfortunately, I don't have 10 posts yet, so can't link it
Just add
/newsletter/Road-Bike-Tire-Width-Charts.html
to their website URL :|
(or another member can actually do it and put the whole link )

Second: well, i've pulled the trigger on some shweet 45! Pics will be coming, be sure
R45 Non Disc - Grooved Graphene Surface matte UD 20H With Holes
R45 Non Disc - Grooved Graphene Surface matte UD 24H With Holes
HUB-F Hope RS4 QR / 100mm straight pull Non Disc Red 20H
HUB-R Hope RS4 QR / 130mm Campy 11S straight pull Non Disc Red 24H 44T
SPOKE Sapim CX Ray Black straight pull
NIPPLE Sapim Aluminium Red Polyax Secure Lock

holybinch

Self quoting... seems LB doesn't have straight pull hubs available in the colour I wanted.
Anyone owns j-bend built LB wheels? What are your opinions?

balles3188

Hello all!

During the last 2 days I have been reading the complete thread. It was been really interesting and it provided to me a lot of new information, since I am starting on this world.

I have a Canyon Grail (Al) and I am thinking about building a specific wheel set for road.

I had in mind to use DT Swiss Wheels but the opinions about LB are so positive that I changed my mind.

My idea is to use 28mm tire (GP5000) with tubes front and rear. Maybe to have the option of mounting 25mm tires.

I was thinking about AR56 and AR46 wheels for disk brakes. What is your advise?

On the other hand, why is not so popular to get a R wheel-set? (R45 / R55)

About the other components, it is clear to me based on all your comments, that DT350 must be my choice for hubs.

For the Ratchet, I have heard that 18t is the best option?

For the rest of components (Axles, Spoke...) I am a little bit lost to be honest. I think I have read too much information.... a little bit of help will be much appreciated.

About the cassete, I am planning to get something like Shimano 11-32.

Thank you very much in advance for all your help.

Balles

holybinch

I've just been through the process, some things worth noting:


I think it is for a few reasons:
AR are more recent, and lighter.
Profile is different between AR and R
Width of the AR is bigger, allowing to fit wider tyres.

I had to go with R set, because my frameset won't allow bigger tyres.


2 things there:
China based LB are out of DT350 right now
EDIT: Sorry, misinformation there, I just remembered, they're out of Campagnolo DT 350
18t is not better, it's cheaper, and it's more resillient, from what i understand.
It's also "slower" to activate, but one is unlikely to notice it much on the road unless one is a coaster.

I'll let other, more informed people, help on the spokes, etc.

Cheers

noodle soup

I just got an email from LB, and their shipping is now $1 to the US. IIRC, it was $70

WhyFi

Wow. Muther****. Now I'm going to have to think about ordering some wheels or rims, at the very least, so that I can roll my own later.