Miyata 710 replacement crank
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
Miyata 710 replacement crank
Hi,
I had to remove my miyata 710 crank cause it was stripped. The spindle is 122mm in length. The bottom shell is 68mm It was the original crank (sugino GLP or so?)
I now have an 8 speed Shimano fc3300 (52,42)crank Id like to put on it. It comes with a sealed bottom bracket 68mm x115mm, Shimano un55? square taper
Im running a 6 speed freewheel
Will it work?
Im guessing it will will but am concerned- bottom bracket is now 115mm from 122mm?
I also have an apex sr crank (apex 5) 52,42 off an old nishiki I can use if need be
I had to remove my miyata 710 crank cause it was stripped. The spindle is 122mm in length. The bottom shell is 68mm It was the original crank (sugino GLP or so?)
I now have an 8 speed Shimano fc3300 (52,42)crank Id like to put on it. It comes with a sealed bottom bracket 68mm x115mm, Shimano un55? square taper
Im running a 6 speed freewheel
Will it work?
Im guessing it will will but am concerned- bottom bracket is now 115mm from 122mm?
I also have an apex sr crank (apex 5) 52,42 off an old nishiki I can use if need be
#2
Really Old Senior Member
The crank determines the BB.
IF a 115 is recommended for the new crank, there's a reason.
You could just install the new crank on the old BB and see how it will sit out too far for the FDER to reach the big ring.
IF a 115 is recommended for the new crank, there's a reason.
You could just install the new crank on the old BB and see how it will sit out too far for the FDER to reach the big ring.
#3
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If the crank's pedal threads are stripped you can repair it with a threaded insert such as a HeliCoil.
I would not be concerned about the bottom bracket length, different cranks take different bottom brackets, and they are relatively inexpensive to swap if needed.
I would not be concerned about the bottom bracket length, different cranks take different bottom brackets, and they are relatively inexpensive to swap if needed.
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Different cranks have the tapered hole further or closer to the frame to achieve the same chain line. Thus the BB axles will vary in length to do this. Andy
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#5
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There's a maker of bike tools that makes an insert thread repair sort of like that. Brand is Unior. It looks like a tap that will center on a stripped 9/16 and then thread to 5/8 and inserts to reduce 5/8 back to 9/16 pedal thread. Both left hand and right hand; go figure.
#6
Newbie
Thread Starter
Thanks for all the responses.
btw I didn't strip the pedal threads-it was the bottom bracket crank threads so I had to cut the old crank off.
So I'll install the newer 8 Spd Shimano 3300 crank with it's 115mm sealed bb and hope that it lines up properly with the 6 Spd freewheel. I thought that I might have to buy a sealed 122mm bb to match but I suppose the crank dictates the BB length
btw I didn't strip the pedal threads-it was the bottom bracket crank threads so I had to cut the old crank off.
So I'll install the newer 8 Spd Shimano 3300 crank with it's 115mm sealed bb and hope that it lines up properly with the 6 Spd freewheel. I thought that I might have to buy a sealed 122mm bb to match but I suppose the crank dictates the BB length
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As much as manufacturer's suggestions are to be paid attention to nothing substitutes for actual try and see. Andy
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#10
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#11
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What do you mean "extends too far"? If it's knocking the chain off the outside of the big ring, try adjusting the high limit screw on the derailleur so that it can't move as far outboard.
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Multi-speed bicycle drivetrains are generally set up according to their 'chainline' - the distance from the centre line of the bike frame where the centre of the rear cluster lies, which should also be the approximate distance from the center line of the frame to the middle chainring of a triple crank, or the mid point of the two chainrings on a double crank. If anything, the chain line on an old 3x6 drivetrain is going to be less (closer to the centre of the bike) than on a modern 7/8/9+ drivetrain, so a modern crank with its recommended BB length is likely to work better with a shorter BB than a longer one. And, as I said above, you adjust the derailleur to match the crank and BB, not adjust the crank and BB to match the derailleur.
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When changing out cranksets you should expect to have to adjust limits. Add to that a triple, you will be adjusting. Go to the Park tool site and download front dérailleur adjustment. It will walk you through it.
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