SB739

Hi Guys, my box store but not too bad bike is a year old. The frame works for me so I'm willing to keep it.

A thick, black sludge has covered all the drivetrain and chain. I know it can be cleaned, but it'll need taken apart to component level to do that well.

I'm prepared to start anew. Buying a new rear derailleur, chain, might remove the front derailleur completely and go for a simple array of gears. OR, buy an internal gear wheel hub. Not sure of the ins and outs other than less actual gears.

I'm a novice but have access to a relatives garage of tools which is going to have all but the most specific bike tools. eBay will suffice For anything else.

Where's a good place for easy to understand guides?

How do i choose suitable parts for my bike? It's a 700c wheel size I can provide other details.

The parts that came off the bike were Shimano Tourney real basic stuff and was fine so I don't need the very finest in parts just decent mass produced stuff.

Really looking forward to reading your suggestions and stuff

Andrew R Stewart 

Unless you have a LBS and a reasonable relationship with then the interweb is the easiest source for info and parts. Of course after trying to learn as much as you can by viewing vids and reading web sites you still are the one making that financial choice in buying the parts, hope you did your homework well as a returned part will end up costing close to what the LBS might have charged for the likely correct one in the first place.


But I have a different tact to suggest. Do go through the effort to clean up your existing drivetrain. This will be a valid learning experience. How things inter relate to each other. What tools are used. How reassembly and initial adjustments are done then the second series of final tweaks work. This learning experience will get you a clean and working bike with almost no outlay other then time.


You want to bake a soufflé, you are hungry and have pancake batter. Just make the darn pancakes, then plan that soufflé. Andy.

alcjphil

Just because your current drivetrain parts are dirty is no reason to discard them. Bicycle maintenance is largely about keeping things cleaned up and properly lubricated. In the 45 years I have been cycling, if I had changed components on my bike every time they were dirty I would not have been able to afford to retire

SB739

Guys you're right.

I need to strip the parts to clean them. And then figure out how to re assemble and grease them.

If I Google the derailleur model will I find Shimano fitting instructions?


The jockey wheel bracket seems bent though, it's throwing the tail of the derailleur into the spokes sadly. Reassembly should fix it, but where to look

alcjphil

If the derailleur pulleys seem to be visibly bent towards the spokes, reassembly will not correct the problem. Since you didn't provide the make and model of the bike it isn't possible to know what sort of derailleur hanger it has. It sounds as if whatever type of hanger you have has been bent and it will have to be straightened to fix the problem. Fixing this problem will need: A new derailleur, a new derailleur hanger, or being straightened using a specific tool. The actual bike you have is important to know in order to figure out what should be done

SB739

Hi there, it's a cheap Raleigh. Not a true well designed bike. But good lightweight frame for me to be honest.

Raleigh Edale Mens Hybrid Bike

Shimano Tourney I believe. Cheap group set. Will need to look closely at the parts for more info than that.

Jeff Wills

Shimano Tourney is cheap and heavy, but it works. You are better off cleaning everything thoroughly and then learning how to repair things before simply replacing parts. In particular, derailleur alignment might or might not be something worth repairing before replacing:

Here's a good place to start:
Rear Derailleur Adjustment | Park Tool

The Park Tool site has many, many pages of repair instructions.

SB739

I've read through that guide. It helps a bit but still, I'm getting nowhere.

I think the routing of my chain is incorrect through the jockey wheels.

Reverse peddling is causing the chain to drop and snag through the derailleur.

I'm thinking the best way to fix it, rather than try to explain it, is to remove completely, clean parts, and act as if I'm setting up the entire thing for the first time with its adjustments?

Not sure if that's easier or not.

I'm beginning to think saving up for a new bike is the only option if I've screwed this one up completely. Shame too as I'm broke and it's the start of the perfect season for cycling. Wish I'd never attempted to clean it in the first place!

DaveSSS 

If you watch a video of a chain or derailleur install and can't get the chain routed properly, bike mechanics might not be your forte. Between the Park Tool website and you tube, you should be able to get instructions for just about any bike repair. There links to several other related guides, at the bottom of the derailleur adjustment guide.

You will need a chain tool to take links out to get the proper chain length, even if you chain has a quick link. Just remember that the quick link is the same as a pair of outer plates, so your chain will have a pair of inner links at both ends, to join properly. Many modern chains can not have links added if cut too short.

The Park tool website will suggest the big/big plus 1 inch method for setting chain length. That's OK, but not ideal, unless you're using the largest rear cog that your RD can handle.

SB739

Hello again.

I spent 3 hours at the bike.

The chain is routed correctly. The bike can uninterruptedly pedal in all gear combinations.

Changing gear with the shifter does nothing until you are in the middle numbers and then it's completely unaligned with the click.

The shifter isn't indexed it seems like. And also, it wont let it go to the smallest rear cog, it's like the derailleur won't reach that far inward.

I've watched loads of videos showing the high and low screw. The tension cable etc and experimented around with them but this won't solve it somehow.

ridelikeaturtle

Can you provide pictures? That might help us push you in the right direction.

kevindsingleton 

The hanger is probably bent. Look at a video on how to re-align the RD hanger.

ridelikeaturtle

Sheldon Brown pages are certainly some of the most useful on the internet. I suggest reading this one a few times: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html

That webpage will probably explain the issue, and how to fix it, better than I can

jack002

This is a sign the shift cable is not adjusted right. Given your description it sounds as if you need slack taken out of the cable. Shifting to the highest number and loosening the cable at the deraillier and pull out the slack and tightening the cable holding nut should get you a lot closer.

SB739

The derailleur won't move in and out right because I've tried everything with the tension cable and only manually pulling or resetting it works. Sigh.

dedhed

This sounds like the issue. Your first few clicks are pulling slack rather than moving the RD

RubeRad

I agree, this is at least the first thing to check before worrying about a bent hanger.

My method:

* by any means possible, shift the chain into the 2nd smallest cog (2nd highest gear)
* operate the shifter into the highest gear (without rotating the wheel/pedals, i.e. leaving the chain on the 2nd cog)
* disconnect the cable
* make sure the cable housing is fully in the stops at all possible locations
* grab the end of the cable with pliers and pull pretty taut, hold it
* with the other hand, tighten the derailleur pinch bolt

Without fail (for me), 'pretty taut' is 'not quite taut enough' because then when I spin the pedals, the derailleur still is able to take up a little bit of slack and the chain falls nicely onto the smallest cog, and it's pretty close to being well-aligned. Then:

* Downshift the shifter one click
* Operate the fine-tuning barrel adjuster until the derailleur is spooling the chain on to the 2nd cog, very well centered.