auxym

Hi everyone! So this is my first project, A 1985 Raleigh Olympian I picked off kijiji for 150 $. It's generally in pretty good shape: no rust, only small nicks in the paint and a tiny dent on the tube.

I just got done tearing it down. While it's not really noticeable with the cranks on, when turning the BB by hand it's really rough-turning. The headset is also not-so great, though a tad better I guess.

So, concerning the BB. It's sealed-bearing and cotterless/square taper. Should it be replaced? Are there commonly available BBs on the market that could fit?

I do not know if the headset is sealed bearning or cup/cone, would anyone have an idea? Other than that, same questions as the BB -- should it be replaced, and, are replacements available on the market?

Good news, at least the hub bearings seem in decent (though not tip-top) shape.

Thanks in advance!

Pars 

I would take it completely apart (BB, headset, and when you get around to it, the hubs) and check the bearings axle (spindle) and races as may be. Clean the parts well (I use mineral spirits, but YMMV). For a sealed bearing unit, you should be able to get the same bearing assemblies, so replace them. For loose ball bearings, for something like this I would immediately replace the bearing balls themselves if the cups/cones looked good. I use G25 bearings, such as these from VXB. VXB could probably supply the sealed bearings as well. Read the numbers on the seal and it will tell you what you need to look for.

oddjob2

Yes, I overhauled one of these recently too. The BB and the headset use bearing retainers, they are NOT sealed. You can take the old retainers down to the LBS and buy replacements or use loose bearings. If the BB cups are shot, you can replace the entire BB with a UN26 Shimano BB Cartridge for less than $15.00 US. Measure from square end to square end, probably 113mm with a 68mm wide bracket. You'll need a Park BBT-22 for installation.

auxym

Good news for the BB then. I'll take it appart tomorrow, I need to get my hands on a lockring wrench I think. Mine does have a sticker saying "sealed bearings" on top of the BB shell. Mine also has downtube shifters, so we might have different years (I'm not 100% mine is 85). I'll know for sure tomorrow.

Less good news for the headset: after reading Sheldon's page, mine does exhibit the "indexed steering" feel. So, likely shot races I guess. I'll try replacing the balls for now and maybe try hitting up the LBS later to see if they'd have something cheap enough.

Narhay

Take apart everything and clean it. Inspect everything to ensure it is smooth and not worn. Replace the bearings with loose balls and fresh grease. If it is still not smooth then you can consider replacement.

auxym

Aight, I went to my local coop and was able to take the BB and the front hub apart. Was missing some tools for the headset and rear hub.

There is indeed not a single sealed bearing on this bike So much for marketing! I'll get some new balls for the hubs and BB. oddjob2, would you happen to know what was the size of the HS ball bearings? I'd order them as well while I'm waiting for the headset wrench.

A first glance the cones on the BB and hubs looked in decent condition, I'll inspect them more carefully when I'm done degreasing.

noglider 

1/4" balls for the bottom bracket and 5/32" for the headset. Have you determined that the cups and spindle are in good shape? If so, reassemble it. If not, get a Shimano cartridge BB.

A big Channel Lock™ pliers often works as a lockring tool, though a proper tool is usually better.

Buy cone wrenches for yourself. You won't regret it. Also buy a 12" adjustable wrench and a big Channel Lock™.

oddjob2

+1 on Tom's advice. Rear hub is 1/4", front is 3/16" balls. 9 for rear, 11 for BB, 10 for front hub.

auxym

Awesome, you guys are like an encyclopaedia

I am considering buying some cone wrenches, but am waiting it out for a bit, parts for the bike and a few tools already make a lot

The headset has me sort of confused though. It looks exactly like the image below. Big lockring on top, then ring with 3 notches, then a knurled ring (top race?). Google has given me mixed answers. Hold down the fork/wheel with knees? Vise-grips/channel-locks on the knurled wring? Or get a hook wrench for the 3-prong ring? Some people on google say the 3-prong ring is only a spacer, others say its tightened against the big lockring...

noglider 

The three-groove thingy is a redundant locknut. The top thingy is a locknut. You could replace the three-groove thingy with a spacer. If you don't have a lockring tool, remove it with a screwdriver and hammer.

Once you have that thingy off, all you need is a Channel Lock™ and a big wrench.

The knurled thingy is the top race.

auxym

I'm afraid I'm still kind of confused. If I'm getting this right,

1. Loosen the redundant locknut with screwdriver/hammer
2. Hold the knurled race with channel locks and unscrew the big locknut with large wrench

Is it ok to hold/apply torque to the fork when doing this (1)? I don't see how else it could be done.

Huge thanks again for the help, sorry for being slow.

noglider 

Disassembly:

Put bike on the ground. Disconnect the front brake cable.

Remove the stem. Dangle the handlebar/stem combo somehow.

Hold the front wheel between your legs (so yes, torque is OK).

Remove the octagonal/hexagonal locknut with a wrench.

Remove the three-notch thingy however you can.

Put the bike in a workstand. If you don't have one, lay it down on its side. Whichever you use, get ready for 50 loose balls to fall all over the place, though the headset is probably built with retainers.

Remove the front wheel from the fork.

Unscrew the top race.

The fork will come out. Clean the races.

Reassembly:

Repack with grease and new balls. Retainers are convenient but loose balls work better. (Or maybe they don't. Someone once told me this.) If you're not sure of how many to use, fill the races, and take one out. Too few is better than too many.

Insert the fork and screw the top race on.

Install the wheel in the fork.

Stand the bike up on the ground and put the upper headset parts on the fork without tightening them. Install the stem and tighten it.

Hold the wheel between your legs. Tighten the top race finger tight. Hold it with the big pliers and tighten the locknut with the wrench.

Reconnect the brake cable. Engage the front brake and rock the bike back and forth. If the rocking reveals play in the headset, it's too loose. Reiterate.

Once it is not too loose, see if it's too tight. Lift the bike up and tilt it slightly. Does the fork turn freely? The headset should be as loose as you can make it but with no play whatsoever. Reiterate.

Readjust the stem to make sure it's straight.

I left out the step about how to use or discard the three-notch thingy. You'll have to decide how. I think you should get a spacer of the same height (4mm or whatever it is).

auxym

Thanks noglider, couldn't possibly be any clearer Got the HS opened, I used big-ass (15", 12" wouldn't open enough) adjustable wrench for the big locknut and a pair of vise-grips for the the small locknut (grabbed the notches). Worked like a charm.

Anyways, here's the report.

HS races have a bit of wear, but no visible pitting or brinelling. Might just have been adjusted too tight? Or balls are shot.

BB spindle seems in good condition, except perhaps for one or two really tiny pitting marks.

Front hub cones are similar to BB spindle. Still waiting for a freewheel tool for the rear hub, it's an old suntour with two prongs and the co-op didn't have the tool.

My plan to to reassemble everything with fresh balls, grease, and adjusted as well as I can. I'll see how that goes and will look into new components if needed after that.

noglider 

You're doing an excellent job, auxym. I'm glad my descriptions were clear to you. I TRY! Have you read Sheldon Brown's web site? It has tons of good stuff. So does the Park Tool web site.

Buy the freewheel tool; you won't regret it. Maybe you should donate it to the coop and use it there.

We had an Olympian in the family. It was a nice bike. I eventually sold it to a college student. I have a picture somewhere.