fulton2

Dear All!

I would like to ask your opinion on what could be behind the problem, have you perhaps encountered a similar problem?
I have new oem Fulcrum Racing 400 wheel set.
the following is my problem with it:
I was not able to completely eliminate a little play in my rear wheel (Fulcrum Racing 400) hub, as no matter how I adjust the preload collar the wheel either has some axial play or is way too tight and does not spin smoothly at all when installed in the frame.
Once preload is correctly adjusted and the wheel is installed in the frame with the thru-axle tightened to the specified torque, the wheel hub does not spin freely. This seems to be result of simply the tightening torque of the thru axle.
I have also tried to loosen the tensioning ring (preload collar) a bit on the hub, and then inserting the wheel into the frame and tightening it to the specified torque. In this case, the wheel still spins freely as it should,but then the hub has axial play. After that, I began to tighten the ring, but with this method I couldn't pull the tensioning ring (preload collar) tight enough to eliminate the axial play in the wheel hub.
The brake caliper is adjusted correctly, to the pad does not rub during rotation!
The front wheel, which has a similar preloading collar, was perfectly adjustable and spins freely without any axial play.

Thank you

wheelreason

Yeah, it's kinda like adjusting the cones on an old q-release hub, you have to have a dry martini's worth of vermouth of play, and it takes experience or a lot of trial and error. spin the collar a tad, and be careful with that tiny allen, they are easy to strip if you over do it.

Andrew R Stewart 

I suspect your hub uses radial contact sealed cartridge bearings. These often want a tad of end play so that the balls always travel in the center of the ball track. Sutherlands covered this many years ago here:

When assembled and adjusted with that tad of end play can you feel it during your ride? Does the freehub body also have this play and if so is it enough to upset shifting adjustments? If not on both accounts I would either just replace the bearings on "principle" (they cost little compared to peace of mind) or ride them with that tad of end play I couldn't feel when riding.

I have about a half dozen sets of Phil hubbed wheels and a couple do have this same end play. With one I sort of think I can feel the rattle when walking my bike. Neither set feels or rides any different than the others. Andy

base2 

^^^^^^
Yep. If you are cutting the line between the roll being affected and a bit of vibration being heard when the bike is bounce-dropped and quickly picked up again, you are right there. Err on the side of the slightest detectible freeplay when clamped in.

fulton2

I don't feel it while driving. only if I move with my hand the rear wheel in the direction of the axis.
what we see in the video is the best setting where the wheel does not axial play yet.
unfortunately I can't insert a link yet. please search for it on yo.u.tube:
"Cube Agree C62 Race - Fulcrum Racing 400 rear wheel issue" and the uploader's name: "Antia Kocsis".
it will be at the top of the results.
What we saw in the video is the best setting where the wheel no axial play.
if I relax a little on the setting, and after I put it in the frame. the axial game increases a bit, but it wheel spin better

Kontact

Your video does not provide any new information.

I couldn't find a good manual, but this one about changing the bearings shows a procedure on page 3, step 19 of snugging the adjuster and then unscrewing it a quarter turn. What instructions are you utilizing to adjust your hub?
https://campagnolo-cdn.thron.com/sta...018_IHEVVA.pdf

fulton2

I used this too.

fulton2

With the method described here, the wheel spin very nicely, but there is also axial play if I check by hand

Kontact

I forget: Can the hub be adjusted while installed on the bike like Mavics?

fulton2

first: Tighten the wheel in the frame to the specified torque.
then adjust the tension with the screw.
I don't know Mavic.

Kontact

Mavic is the same, with no lock screw on the adjuster. So when you adjust the bearing preload when the wheel is in the frame, the play disappears at the exact adjustment that stops the wheel spinning easily?

That seems like worn out bearings.

base2 

With the bearings he has, the proper adjustment is just shy of where the spin is affected. The balls need to rest in the center of the track. This means there will be the slightest play at the rim edge because the rim edge is 13-14 inches away. Ideally the "looseness" can be heard as a bit of vibration when the wheel is dropped but nothing more.

Taking up the slack will cause the bearing balls to be squished off-center. The roll will be affected and the bearing will wear prematurely.

These are not cup & cone. These are not angular contact bearings. These are Radial contact bearings. Hence the confusion. Andy from above posted a really good page from Sutherland's. What more is there to say? The proper answer has been given

fulton2

when the wheel is in the frame, no matter how hard I turn preload screw, result: it doesn't turn spin good and there is even axial play in it.

Base2: sorry, I don't speak English very well. thanks for the replies so far. so you say it can be small axial play examined by hand?

RB1-luvr

I have Fulcrum Racing hubs on my cx bike, and I had to replace the cartridge bearings because of a similar situation as yours. I could not get them adjusted just right. The bearings felt fine, so I probably could have run them in that loose condition for a while, but I wanted them as new.

fulton2

Fulcrum Racing 400 DB
and what bearing exactly did you put in it?
were you able to adjust the HUB perfectly with it?
do you show me link about bearing?

RB1-luvr

It's been two years since I serviced that hub. Sorry, I do not have a link. I removed the bearings and attempted to remove the seal to clean and grease them, but I could not. I measured the bearings and purchased them on eBay. Yes, the hub was as-new after installation.