AndyK 

I bought a beautiful Aero post in ard to find 26.2. When installed it, the set back is WAY too much! I can't push the saddle forward enough to get where I need it to be.

Why did Campy change the set back when they made this Aero post?? Did they come in different set backs?

cudak888 

Setback should be the same as SR posts, no?

-Kurt

AndyK 

Nope, about 2cm farther back for some reason!?

norskagent

check velobase?

AndyK 

Velobase has great photos, but no data as far as setback.

JML

From the pictures on Velobase and at https://campagnolo.wikispaces.com/Seatpost, it's not obvious that there's a difference in the setback between the earlier SR seatpost and the C-Record, and my old catalogs don't have any dimensions. Could the issue be your saddle rails?

AndyK 

I actually used the saddle rails to measure. With the Super Record seatpost, I had the mounts in the middle of the rails. With the C-Record Aero post, the saddle is all the way forward to get almost to the same place.

JML

That sure takes care of making it a controlled experiment!

AndyK 

Update - I am a moron! I was using two different saddles to measure the setback! Duh. My modern Specialized Alias rails must be way forward, because on both my classic Super Record and newer C-Record Aero posts, the Alias is all the way forward. On both posts, my Rolls saddle sits right in the middle. So, never mind this entire thread!

Now all I have to do is get used to my Rolls saddle, and I can choose between my ultra-rare first edition Super Record or the prettier C-Record Aero posts!

Thanks for the ideas and feedback Kurt, Nors and JML, or I would be convinced the Aero post was at fault!

JML

That's what I meant by "controlled experiment." I assumed from your answer that the saddle was the same.

Anyway, in case you're interested, with that one-bolt fitting on my SR post, I use a bit of silver antiseize on the bolt/nut threads and the surfaces of the curved washer, and a tiny bit on each of the rail holders. You can clean off excess with isopropyl alcohol. It really helps prevent any unwanted binding, but doesn't make anything slip. I also use it on the seatpost/seat-tube. Better than grease, any day!

Just don't get any on your fingers and accidentally transfer it to the leather saddle, because it'll be hard to remove.

AndyK 

I used a little grease on the bolt threads, that's it. And plenty of grease on the seat post. I'd be afraid to use antiseize and get it all over the place. If my 77 SR seatpost hasn't seized up yet, it never will!

AndyK 

Another update: This pretty C-Record seatpost doesn't hold the saddle angle! No matter how tight I make it, I hit a small bump, and I'm riding nose-up! Are there any Campy tricks to get the mount to hold the angle properly?

norskagent

I had that problem with my single-bolt campy SR seatpost. It took a box wrench and authoritative torque to get it to stay put. The bolt head is so low-profile it was hard to get an open end wrench to grab it securely.

AndyK 

I worry about applying extreme torque to a 25 year old bolt. The 2 bolt posts NEVER move once you set them. But they are a PITA to make small adjustments to. I wish my seat tube took a 27.2 post. My choices are pretty limited at 26.2!

norskagent

I have a modern, very flat, hard, thin race saddle on my mid 80's bianchi pista w/ 26.8 campy NR 2 bolt seatpost. I always have a tough time adjusting those, but because I could wrench it from the side, instead the rear, it was extremely easy. And as a bonus, I could see the saddle tilt fore/aft as I adjusted!

JML

The sliding may be the fault of your saddle rails, not the post bolt or clamp. Check the diameter of the rails and, with the saddle off, see how close the clamp halves will get to each other when the bolt is tightened. The clamp halves have pretty deep recesses for the saddle rails, and a thin rail could slip between the halves, preventing you from fully tightening the bolt into the threads on the top clamp (see how close the clamp halves get on my Turbomatic saddle rails, in the picture below?). But first remove and check the fixing bolt and threads on the top clamp for stripped threads. If the bolt was tightened too much before, it or the clamp threads may have stripped.

To avoid marring the post on a SR post with a standard hex-head fitting bolt, use a thin-walled socket wrench on the bolt, with a medium handle (to avoid over-torquing). I changed my SR bolt to a C-Record 6 mm allen key bolt to avoid the problem and make it easier to adjust things while on the road. Your C-Record has the allen-key fixing bolt, right?



The bolt just protrudes a tiny bit from the top clamp, which is threaded and serves as a nut. I had a cast-magnesium Regal saddle that came with an extra-long bolt for fixing the saddle on a Campy SR seatpost. The rails were very big, and had a half-rail cast on top and bottom of the mail rectangular rail, so it would not fit on a seatpost clamp when the regular Campy bolt was used. I think I still have the extra bolt somewhere, but no longer have the saddle.

Here's someone else's picture:



And slipping is less likely to happen with antiseize than with grease. Antiseize is used to prevent cold-welding or corrosion of parts, not to lube them for movement, which is the purpose of grease. It's basically an oil with metal particles suspended within it; the metal particles give up themsleves to oxidation or other chemical reaction, instead of the parts lubed.

AndyK 

When I say slipping, I don't mean the saddle is sliding, I mean when I set the saddle angle, crank the bolt as tight as could be, it still moves when I hit a small bump. All of a sudden, I start feeling pain, and think "WTF"? When I get off the bike, I see the nose of the saddle pointing up.

I'll try sticking some sandpaper between the curved post end, and female curved aluminum bracket. Maybe that will force the parts to stay put?

paulkal

I have heard of this problem before. Some sandpaper may solve the problem.

LWaB

When I had this problem, I used to slop a bit of Superglue between the bottom half of the clamp and the seatpost while assembling the clamp but you have to be sure to get the angle correct the first time. The parts can be separated with a thump of the hand.

AndyK 

Superglue scares me, my luck it would drip on the paint, or, my had would be glued to the seatpost! I'll try sandpaper and see if that works. If not, I'll go back to the trusty (put PITA) SR 2 bolt post.

mudboy

I have 22 6mm allen head bolts of the proper threading and dimension to work in a super record saddle clamp. It's a black oxide finish, but it work perfectly and is MUCH easier to get torqued down. PM me...any of you...and I'll send you one or two along with a couple of stainless washers for the cost of shipping.

positron

Ive had luck getting things (fookin campy parts) to hold by using toothpaste. the chalky white kind works best.... hth

GrayJay

THe way I finally got my c-rec post angle to hold was by taking a small triangular file and making a series of grooves in the two mating surfaces so that there was a bit of bite between them.

AndyK 

Interesting ideas - toothpaste because it has minor abrasives that would provide grip I guess. And, filing grooves into the smooth surfaces so they catch on something. So would the grooves be filed vertically? How many?

robatsu

I've never had the slip problem w/C-Record post, but if I did, I think I would try something akin to "no skid" stuff you paint on steel stairs/ship walkways. Maybe some shellac or nail polish, mix a little fine grit sand, paint it on the two mating surfaces, let dry before assembly. Using shellac/nail polish means it will come off easy. I haven't tried this, but I'd be willing to bet that this would take care of any slip problems and be reasonably non destructive.

Heck, the shellac alone might work, it adds tack to the two surfaces.