How smooth was ultraglide?
08-08-20, 07:29 PM
#26
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They were Smooth enough.
I'd venture a guess it's the chain. I can't remember but did you have the same problem with the previous chain?
I'd venture a guess it's the chain. I can't remember but did you have the same problem with the previous chain?
08-08-20, 07:40 PM
#27
With a mighty wind
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I have two brand new DA UG chains I could use. I don't like their construction, I thought the hg40 would be an improvement but maybe not.
08-08-20, 07:55 PM
#28
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Could it be that the cogs are slightly worn and not quite meshing smoothly with the new chain but the cogs aren't worn enough to cause skipping?
Maybe switch out the pedals with another pair to eliminate all possibility it's the pedals?
Cheers
Maybe switch out the pedals with another pair to eliminate all possibility it's the pedals?
Cheers
08-08-20, 08:57 PM
#29
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Ha, Ultra-Glide, I like it. 😁 Sounds like we’re talkin’ Harleys or somesuch. 😎😉 Here’s my Ultra-Glide chain, you can’t see the 6-speed freewheel, behind the panniers & things. 😎
08-09-20, 05:04 AM
#30
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This was my thought as well. Maybe chainrings or cassette cogs are worn. Chainrings are cheap, not sure about 6sp D-A cassettes, but replacing either or both might be worth a try.
08-09-20, 05:34 AM
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I would replace a component, test. Put old component back on and replace another. Test again. Repeat, repeat until you get some kind of change. Isolate the problem so you can find it.
As you are taking components off, put them on another bike and test. You can be doing a second test in reverse simultaneously.
As you are taking components off, put them on another bike and test. You can be doing a second test in reverse simultaneously.
Last edited by seypat; 08-09-20 at 06:26 AM.
08-09-20, 05:44 AM
#32
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If the DT shifters are friction/sis, run them in friction mode and see if that changes anything.
08-09-20, 05:44 AM
#33
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The nice thing with Unuglide cogs is that you can reverse all but the smallest screwed on one and thus nearly double the life of the cassette. I hope you have a cassette and not a freewheel. Reversing the cogs is almost like getting new ones.
Alternatively, you can get a modern Hyperglide cassette and grind sown t he large tab on each of the cogs and use those. You still need to use the smallest screw on cog to hold everything in place.
Cheers
Alternatively, you can get a modern Hyperglide cassette and grind sown t he large tab on each of the cogs and use those. You still need to use the smallest screw on cog to hold everything in place.
Cheers
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08-09-20, 06:15 AM
#34
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Do you get the same "feeling" in both chain rings? Pick a cog that gives the best chain line for each chain ring and test. Maybe it has more miles than we think.
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I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs.
I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs.
08-09-20, 07:13 AM
#35
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08-09-20, 11:23 AM
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Btw, if you have a Uniglide CASSETTE and only have one chainwhip, it's still possible to get that small screw-on cog off with it. Leave the wheel on the bike and shift into the largest cog on the cassette. Strap or tie one crankarm to the chainstay. I use an old toe-strap for that. Then use the chainwhip to loosen the smallest cog.
Good luck and cheers
Good luck and cheers
08-10-20, 09:12 AM
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That’s something else I need, new housing for my brakes, at least. 😉
08-10-20, 09:48 AM
#38
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I'm thinking that the guide pulley is the wrong type. It should have a bushing that is slightly longer than the thickness of the pulley itself. That way, the side-to-side play allows the chain to self-center beneath the chosen cog. Maybe a non-indexing type pulley is in the guide position?
