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Mercier Kilo TT Repair / Build

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Old 08-09-20, 01:21 PM
  #26  
scantino
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Originally Posted by alcjphil
I concur. That crank arm is dead. It has shuffled off this mortal coil. It has ceased to exist. The only solution would be to find an exact replacement of the some make and model. Unlikely, as this is a relatively specialised item. Time for a new crank and matching bottom bracket
Any recommendations on a replacement if I can't find a matching NDS crank? Or is that meant for another thread?
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Old 08-09-20, 01:24 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Barry2
You have to remove the DS crank. Same bolt in the middle as the NDS. It may come loose with a little tap... it may not.
But it's worth a try.

Although dedhed appears to be a man of few words, the link he provided is great!
Looks like it may prove to be just what you need. HOWEVER, you will need to check with someone in the know for Truactiv.

I'm more a Shimano kinda guy.
Even my fixed is shimano.

All the best

Barry

BTW on the inside of the crank will be a length in mm.
Usually between 165mm and 170mm
You will need to buy the correct length replacement crank.
Hey Barry -

I removed the bolt on the DS like you said but the crank wont budge. I even gave it a light tap with a mallet and nothing. Not sure if I should force it? It is on there real good with no play. Attaching some photos.

Def gonna check out that link dedhed posted. Hopefully, that can work out.

What kinda shimano are you running? Planning on using the freewheel/ss side...

DS Crank

DS Crank after bolt removal

Last edited by scantino; 08-09-20 at 01:27 PM. Reason: forgot photos
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Old 08-10-20, 03:16 PM
  #28  
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If through GENTLE encouragement it's remained stuck don't force it, you will need a puller.
My track/fixed came with Shimano FC-7710. I don't know I'd pay that price if I was looking for a new/retail fixed crankset.
In fact I look at the 7710 as a disadvantage. I'd like to run a power meter, but the cost of a NDS Power Meter (PM) crank is double that of newer Shimano Hollowtech compatible options. The 7710 is the older Optilink standard.

Barry
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Old 08-11-20, 06:15 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Barry2
If through GENTLE encouragement it's remained stuck don't force it, you will need a puller.
My track/fixed came with Shimano FC-7710. I don't know I'd pay that price if I was looking for a new/retail fixed crankset.
In fact I look at the 7710 as a disadvantage. I'd like to run a power meter, but the cost of a NDS Power Meter (PM) crank is double that of newer Shimano Hollowtech compatible options. The 7710 is the older Optilink standard.

Barry
Thanks, Barry! I had to get a crank puller from a local shop. Came right off!
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Old 08-11-20, 06:44 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by scantino
Thanks, Barry! I had to get a crank puller from a local shop. Came right off!
And whats the verdict? Is that side good

Barry
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Old 08-11-20, 06:47 PM
  #31  
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So... I finally got the cranks off. The DS crank appears to be in good condition but I can't seem to locate a crank arm replacement for the NDS.

However, I do have a pair of old Sugino GLP cranks that I pulled from an 80s Fuji parts bike I have. They appear to be in solid shape. The bottom bracket is trashed though. Would this be an upgrade from the Truvativ Touro?

I am thinking of purchasing a Shimano BB-UN55 and putting it along with the Sugino GLP's into the Mercier Kilo frame to replace the Powerspine BB / Truvativ Touro setup.

Any thoughts? Will this work? If so, what do I do with the chainring? The original setup with Truvativ cranks had a 48. The Sugino has a 52 & 42. I plan on running it as a single speed/freewheel.

Thanks! This has all been super helpful and I am enjoying doing the work myself.

Truvativ Touro

Sugino GLP
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Old 08-11-20, 06:54 PM
  #32  
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Pull the BB out, and go shopping

they both look buggered up..

drive side of the square taper is not square.
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Old 08-11-20, 07:13 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by fietsbob
Pull the BB out, and go shopping

they both look buggered up..

drive side of the square taper is not square.
Yep, that DS square taper... aint !

Time to decide...
1. BB feels good so, replace NDS crank (determine length required)
2. BB feels good so, replace the crankset (determine # of teeth in ring, and length required)
3. BB and Cranks all gotta go.

As for what to replace with... no idea. Too few gears, not Shimano, and I don't know if all Kilo BB's are the same.
I'd hate to give you bum data

All the best

Barry
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Old 08-11-20, 09:30 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by fietsbob
Pull the BB out, and go shopping

they both look buggered up..

drive side of the square taper is not square.
Attaching some more photos. I noticed there was a glob of grease on the DS crank photo. Does this look any better to you all? or still worn out? Its does seem like some wear still but I'm no pro obviously. Thanks!




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Old 08-11-20, 09:31 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Barry2
Yep, that DS square taper... aint !

Time to decide...
1. BB feels good so, replace NDS crank (determine length required)
2. BB feels good so, replace the crankset (determine # of teeth in ring, and length required)
3. BB and Cranks all gotta go.

As for what to replace with... no idea. Too few gears, not Shimano, and I don't know if all Kilo BB's are the same.
I'd hate to give you bum data

All the best

Barry
just posted a few better photos. still looking bad?
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Old 08-12-20, 09:00 AM
  #36  
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General note : scratches become potential stress risers where cracks propagate ..

So be vigilant..
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Old 08-12-20, 01:29 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by fietsbob
General note : scratches become potential stress risers where cracks propagate ..

So be vigilant..
Good to know! Thanks for looking out.
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Old 08-12-20, 06:16 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by fietsbob
General note : scratches become potential stress risers where cracks propagate ..

So be vigilant..
Do you think they are too worn out to use?
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Old 08-13-20, 08:27 AM
  #39  
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Use a new BB
I cant hold the cranks in my hand to look , so y/n opinion withheld on your specific ones..

Just be aware of that material characteristic that I mentioned...
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Old 08-13-20, 10:37 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by fietsbob
Use a new BB
I cant hold the cranks in my hand to look , so y/n opinion withheld on your specific ones..

Just be aware of that material characteristic that I mentioned...
okay, good to know. thanks!
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Old 08-13-20, 02:52 PM
  #41  
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Anybody have any input on the updated photos? Square taper still look worn?
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Old 08-13-20, 03:41 PM
  #42  
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Scantino,
Does it matter if the taper is worn, if it's a double ringed crankset and you can't use it on a single/fixed rear wheel?
I've tried to point this out previously.
You will find people have done it on a conversion. But they used a regular geared rear wheel and spacers to correct the chainline for use with a single rear cog.
OR
Maybe you know of a way to use a double ringed crankset on a fixed/single speed wheel and frame?

Sorry, but I think you've reached the point where you put your hand in your pocket and buy parts.

Barry
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Old 08-14-20, 10:43 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Barry2
Scantino,
Does it matter if the taper is worn, if it's a double ringed crankset and you can't use it on a single/fixed rear wheel?
I've tried to point this out previously.
You will find people have done it on a conversion. But they used a regular geared rear wheel and spacers to correct the chainline for use with a single rear cog.
OR
Maybe you know of a way to use a double ringed crankset on a fixed/single speed wheel and frame?

Sorry, but I think you've reached the point where you put your hand in your pocket and buy parts.

Barry
Noted. I was under the impression that I could convert the double ringed crankset for use with a single speed cog.

If the taper is worn though, sounds like its time for new cranks!
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