Switching B/W Trail & Hybrid Tires on a Mountain Bike?
10-06-20, 02:14 PM
#1
Drip, Drip.
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Southern Ontario
Posts: 1,575
Bikes: Trek Verve E bike, Felt Doctrine 4 XC, Opus Horizon Apex 1
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1034 Post(s)
Liked 193 Times
in
163 Posts
Switching B/W Trail & Hybrid Tires on a Mountain Bike?
HI all, I've recently acquired a new wheelset for my Mountaim bike and mounted some 26 x 1.75 hybrid tires on. I understsnd that a mountain bike having different geometry from a gravel/road bike and generally being stiffer (?) Might not pair so well with such thin tires, especially over bad roads. Until next spring, im looking to basically do it all on one bike... ziptie my trail rim to my backpack, ride out to the trail on my hybrid, switch back and forth as necessary... etc. I got a suspension seat post to help make riding more comfortable.
My question is - I ride on pavement most of the time. Would it make sense to change to a fixed front fork? The front end tends to be a bit slow to react when turning fast at slower speeds. Would a front fork with a more aggressive rake help fix this?
I ride a 1998 GT Zaskar LE. Its got a Manitou Black Elite front fork and a newer design threadless
stem.
My question is - I ride on pavement most of the time. Would it make sense to change to a fixed front fork? The front end tends to be a bit slow to react when turning fast at slower speeds. Would a front fork with a more aggressive rake help fix this?
I ride a 1998 GT Zaskar LE. Its got a Manitou Black Elite front fork and a newer design threadless
stem.
10-06-20, 03:44 PM
#2
Dirty Heathen
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: MC-778, 6250 fsw
Posts: 2,182
Bikes: 1997 Cannondale, 1976 Bridgestone, 1998 SoftRide, 1989 Klein, 1989 Black Lightning #0033
Mentioned: 19 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 889 Post(s)
Liked 906 Times
in
534 Posts
Carrying an extra set of wheels everywhere seems like a lot of work. How far is it to the trail? If it’s only a couple miles, you can just ride there on your knobby tires, no harm done.
As far as the front end, there’s a few things you could do: First, make sure your fork preload is set up appropriately for rider weight. A fork that’s too soft with make the steering feel sluggish.
Second, you appear to be running a very, very tall, upright stem / steerer, on top of a steerer extension. That looks kind of extreme to me, especially on a repurposed MTB, trying to pose as a comfort bike. Lower the angle on that stem, and / or take out that extension; it’s not my bike, but it doesn’t look to me like it’d handle very well.
As far as the front end, there’s a few things you could do: First, make sure your fork preload is set up appropriately for rider weight. A fork that’s too soft with make the steering feel sluggish.
Second, you appear to be running a very, very tall, upright stem / steerer, on top of a steerer extension. That looks kind of extreme to me, especially on a repurposed MTB, trying to pose as a comfort bike. Lower the angle on that stem, and / or take out that extension; it’s not my bike, but it doesn’t look to me like it’d handle very well.
Last edited by Ironfish653; 10-06-20 at 03:56 PM.
10-07-20, 06:33 AM
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: South Central PA
Posts: 549
Bikes: Focus Arriba, Specialized Roubaix Expert, Bianchi Impulso Allroad
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 109 Post(s)
Liked 82 Times
in
53 Posts
I get that you're new to cycling Moisture, but some of your questions and comments are rather comical. Why the hell wouldn't you be able to just ride the Knobby tires to the trailhead on pavement, then ride the trail? If you're planning on switching wheelsets, you would need to bring both wheels... front traction on singletrack trails is at least as important as rear traction.
Change out the fork for rigid? Then you are defeating the only thing that gives you a (albeit limited with that old fork) advantage on single track. I agree with the previous poster's comments.. Also, it certainly looks like your bike does not fit you, but you are forcing the issue with add-on extension and an upright stem. I would suggest reading more about cycling, both road and MTB. There is a wealth of knowledge here.
Change out the fork for rigid? Then you are defeating the only thing that gives you a (albeit limited with that old fork) advantage on single track. I agree with the previous poster's comments.. Also, it certainly looks like your bike does not fit you, but you are forcing the issue with add-on extension and an upright stem. I would suggest reading more about cycling, both road and MTB. There is a wealth of knowledge here.
10-07-20, 06:36 AM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Kips Bay, NY
Posts: 2,212
Bikes: Ritchey Swiss Cross | Teesdale Kona Hot | Haro Extreme | Specialized Stumpjumper Comp | Cannondale F1000 | Shogun 1000 | Cannondale M500 | Norco Charger | Marin Muirwoods 29er | Shogun Kaze | Breezer Lightning
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 576 Post(s)
Liked 1,001 Times
in
488 Posts
Likes For DorkDisk:
10-07-20, 09:20 AM
#5
Drip, Drip.
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Southern Ontario
Posts: 1,575
Bikes: Trek Verve E bike, Felt Doctrine 4 XC, Opus Horizon Apex 1
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1034 Post(s)
Liked 193 Times
in
163 Posts
Carrying an extra set of wheels everywhere seems like a lot of work. How far is it to the trail? If it’s only a couple miles, you can just ride there on your knobby tires, no harm done.
As far as the front end, there’s a few things you could do: First, make sure your fork preload is set up appropriately for rider weight. A fork that’s too soft with make the steering feel sluggish.
Second, you appear to be running a very, very tall, upright stem / steerer, on top of a steerer extension. That looks kind of extreme to me, especially on a repurposed MTB, trying to pose as a comfort bike. Lower the angle on that stem, and / or take out that extension; it’s not my bike, but it doesn’t look to me like it’d handle very well.
As far as the front end, there’s a few things you could do: First, make sure your fork preload is set up appropriately for rider weight. A fork that’s too soft with make the steering feel sluggish.
Second, you appear to be running a very, very tall, upright stem / steerer, on top of a steerer extension. That looks kind of extreme to me, especially on a repurposed MTB, trying to pose as a comfort bike. Lower the angle on that stem, and / or take out that extension; it’s not my bike, but it doesn’t look to me like it’d handle very well.
I tend to decrease the stem angle before long stints of uphill. Otherwise, there's already enough weighr over the front axle to cause understeer when im really thrashing the bike, as I'm already leaning forward a bit with this setup. I understand that leaning forward will give you better stability and power transfer going up hills.
I get that you're new to cycling Moisture, but some of your questions and comments are rather comical. Why the hell wouldn't you be able to just ride the Knobby tires to the trailhead on pavement, then ride the trail? If you're planning on switching wheelsets, you would need to bring both wheels... front traction on singletrack trails is at least as important as rear traction.
Change out the fork for rigid? Then you are defeating the only thing that gives you a (albeit limited with that old fork) advantage on single track. I agree with the previous poster's comments.. Also, it certainly looks like your bike does not fit you, but you are forcing the issue with add-on extension and an upright stem. I would suggest reading more about cycling, both road and MTB. There is a wealth of knowledge here.
Change out the fork for rigid? Then you are defeating the only thing that gives you a (albeit limited with that old fork) advantage on single track. I agree with the previous poster's comments.. Also, it certainly looks like your bike does not fit you, but you are forcing the issue with add-on extension and an upright stem. I would suggest reading more about cycling, both road and MTB. There is a wealth of knowledge here.
In all honesty, due to this, I ride my bike on pavement most of the time. I'm mainly curious as ro what you guys think of converting this bike to a street cruiser for the time being, until I can figure out what bike to look for to suit me better for trail use next season.
actually.. i noticed that sort of. Its especially evident in the picture. Would you suggest changing that fork?
10-07-20, 09:38 AM
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Kips Bay, NY
Posts: 2,212
Bikes: Ritchey Swiss Cross | Teesdale Kona Hot | Haro Extreme | Specialized Stumpjumper Comp | Cannondale F1000 | Shogun 1000 | Cannondale M500 | Norco Charger | Marin Muirwoods 29er | Shogun Kaze | Breezer Lightning
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 576 Post(s)
Liked 1,001 Times
in
488 Posts
10-07-20, 10:23 AM
#7
Sunshine
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 16,604
Bikes: '18 class built steel roadbike, '19 Fairlight Secan, '88 Schwinn Premis , Black Mountain Cycles Monstercross V4, '89 Novara Trionfo
Mentioned: 123 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10947 Post(s)
Liked 7,473 Times
in
4,181 Posts
So much to unpack here.
1- the fork is on backwards...sorta. The stanchion bridge should be on the front of the fork. But the brake mount studs and dropouts are facing the correct way. Odd setup, cant figure whats going on there and am not interested to look at the picture more to figure it out since there is so much more hot mess to address. Does the fork look bent because it should be turned the other way with the stanchions rotated?
2- the fork travel looks longer than what that frame is designed for. It may just be the picture, but it seems you need a lower suspension travel fork. Your front end is jacked up a bunch and the frame geometry looks super slack. With how jacked up the front end is, the fork being bent actually offsets the slackness.
3- that is a 23" frame? Looks at least a couple inches smaller.
4- the stem extension setup is crazy to see, but if its what you need to get the bike to fit, then so be it. Adjusting the stem angle depending on if you are climbing or not seems like a curious process. Thats a lot of process effort just to climb a hill.
5- you are literally carrying another wheelset on your back?!? what?!?! That is insane and there is no way you are riding trails that require MTB tires with a wheelset on your back(the switched out set). This is like a bad Rube Goldberg cycling idea.
6- if you switch to a rigid fork, then get one that matches what your frame was designed for. Get the correct axle to crown length fork.
1- the fork is on backwards...sorta. The stanchion bridge should be on the front of the fork. But the brake mount studs and dropouts are facing the correct way. Odd setup, cant figure whats going on there and am not interested to look at the picture more to figure it out since there is so much more hot mess to address. Does the fork look bent because it should be turned the other way with the stanchions rotated?
2- the fork travel looks longer than what that frame is designed for. It may just be the picture, but it seems you need a lower suspension travel fork. Your front end is jacked up a bunch and the frame geometry looks super slack. With how jacked up the front end is, the fork being bent actually offsets the slackness.
3- that is a 23" frame? Looks at least a couple inches smaller.
4- the stem extension setup is crazy to see, but if its what you need to get the bike to fit, then so be it. Adjusting the stem angle depending on if you are climbing or not seems like a curious process. Thats a lot of process effort just to climb a hill.
5- you are literally carrying another wheelset on your back?!? what?!?! That is insane and there is no way you are riding trails that require MTB tires with a wheelset on your back(the switched out set). This is like a bad Rube Goldberg cycling idea.
6- if you switch to a rigid fork, then get one that matches what your frame was designed for. Get the correct axle to crown length fork.
10-07-20, 12:54 PM
#8
Drip, Drip.
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Southern Ontario
Posts: 1,575
Bikes: Trek Verve E bike, Felt Doctrine 4 XC, Opus Horizon Apex 1
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1034 Post(s)
Liked 193 Times
in
163 Posts
So much to unpack here.
1- the fork is on backwards...sorta. The stanchion bridge should be on the front of the fork. But the brake mount studs and dropouts are facing the correct way. Odd setup, cant figure whats going on there and am not interested to look at the picture more to figure it out since there is so much more hot mess to address. Does the fork look bent because it should be turned the other way with the stanchions rotated?
2- the fork travel looks longer than what that frame is designed for. It may just be the picture, but it seems you need a lower suspension travel fork. Your front end is jacked up a bunch and the frame geometry looks super slack. With how jacked up the front end is, the fork being bent actually offsets the slackness.
3- that is a 23" frame? Looks at least a couple inches smaller.
4- the stem extension setup is crazy to see, but if its what you need to get the bike to fit, then so be it. Adjusting the stem angle depending on if you are climbing or not seems like a curious process. Thats a lot of process effort just to climb a hill.
5- you are literally carrying another wheelset on your back?!? what?!?! That is insane and there is no way you are riding trails that require MTB tires with a wheelset on your back(the switched out set). This is like a bad Rube Goldberg cycling idea.
6- if you switch to a rigid fork, then get one that matches what your frame was designed for. Get the correct axle to crown length fork.
1- the fork is on backwards...sorta. The stanchion bridge should be on the front of the fork. But the brake mount studs and dropouts are facing the correct way. Odd setup, cant figure whats going on there and am not interested to look at the picture more to figure it out since there is so much more hot mess to address. Does the fork look bent because it should be turned the other way with the stanchions rotated?
2- the fork travel looks longer than what that frame is designed for. It may just be the picture, but it seems you need a lower suspension travel fork. Your front end is jacked up a bunch and the frame geometry looks super slack. With how jacked up the front end is, the fork being bent actually offsets the slackness.
3- that is a 23" frame? Looks at least a couple inches smaller.
4- the stem extension setup is crazy to see, but if its what you need to get the bike to fit, then so be it. Adjusting the stem angle depending on if you are climbing or not seems like a curious process. Thats a lot of process effort just to climb a hill.
5- you are literally carrying another wheelset on your back?!? what?!?! That is insane and there is no way you are riding trails that require MTB tires with a wheelset on your back(the switched out set). This is like a bad Rube Goldberg cycling idea.
6- if you switch to a rigid fork, then get one that matches what your frame was designed for. Get the correct axle to crown length fork.
I only adjust the stem for very long uphill stints. Most of the tine I spend ridinf this bike fairly casually, hence the current setup.
I think youre 100% right about this fork being too long for the bike. I guess another reason why i should probably get a new one. Works well on the trails though. Feels really light and good dampening.
I've measured this frame myself. 23 inches from centre of BB to top of seat tube.
The trails are all far from me. I usually put my front trail tire on, leave the hybrid tire on the rear and strap my rear trail rim to my backpack. One rim doesn't weigh much. Ridiculous I know, but it's a 1.5 hour (that's if I'm going fast, no wind, no breaks) bike ride one way.
I want the handlebars to be high up like this so I don't lean forward excessively. I still lean forward just a little, and its enough to cause the front tire to lose traction when im pushing hard through the turns.
This is how the bike looked when I first bought it. Looks like the fork was already bent before I even got it.
10-07-20, 01:17 PM
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Kips Bay, NY
Posts: 2,212
Bikes: Ritchey Swiss Cross | Teesdale Kona Hot | Haro Extreme | Specialized Stumpjumper Comp | Cannondale F1000 | Shogun 1000 | Cannondale M500 | Norco Charger | Marin Muirwoods 29er | Shogun Kaze | Breezer Lightning
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 576 Post(s)
Liked 1,001 Times
in
488 Posts
So much to unpack here.
1- the fork is on backwards...sorta. The stanchion bridge should be on the front of the fork. But the brake mount studs and dropouts are facing the correct way. Odd setup, cant figure whats going on there and am not interested to look at the picture more to figure it out since there is so much more hot mess to address. Does the fork look bent because it should be turned the other way with the stanchions rotated?
2- the fork travel looks longer than what that frame is designed for. It may just be the picture, but it seems you need a lower suspension travel fork. Your front end is jacked up a bunch and the frame geometry looks super slack. With how jacked up the front end is, the fork being bent actually offsets the slackness.
1- the fork is on backwards...sorta. The stanchion bridge should be on the front of the fork. But the brake mount studs and dropouts are facing the correct way. Odd setup, cant figure whats going on there and am not interested to look at the picture more to figure it out since there is so much more hot mess to address. Does the fork look bent because it should be turned the other way with the stanchions rotated?
2- the fork travel looks longer than what that frame is designed for. It may just be the picture, but it seems you need a lower suspension travel fork. Your front end is jacked up a bunch and the frame geometry looks super slack. With how jacked up the front end is, the fork being bent actually offsets the slackness.
Fork is long, '98 should be about 80mm
10-07-20, 01:28 PM
#10
Sunshine
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 16,604
Bikes: '18 class built steel roadbike, '19 Fairlight Secan, '88 Schwinn Premis , Black Mountain Cycles Monstercross V4, '89 Novara Trionfo
Mentioned: 123 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10947 Post(s)
Liked 7,473 Times
in
4,181 Posts
Its not on backwards. Its something called reverse arch technology.. so apparently this is how its supposed to be mounted. Im assuming I need to get a new one? If you search up Manitou Black Elite, you'll see what I mean.
I only adjust the stem for very long uphill stints. Most of the tine I spend ridinf this bike fairly casually, hence the current setup.
I think youre 100% right about this fork being too long for the bike. I guess another reason why i should probably get a new one. Works well on the trails though. Feels really light and good dampening.
I've measured this frame myself. 23 inches from centre of BB to top of seat tube.
The trails are all far from me. I usually put my front trail tire on, leave the hybrid tire on the rear and strap my rear trail rim to my backpack. One rim doesn't weigh much. Ridiculous I know, but it's a 1.5 hour (that's if I'm going fast, no wind, no breaks) bike ride one way.
I want the handlebars to be high up like this so I don't lean forward excessively. I still lean forward just a little, and its enough to cause the front tire to lose traction when im pushing hard through the turns.
This is how the bike looked when I first bought it. Looks like the fork was already bent before I even got it.
I only adjust the stem for very long uphill stints. Most of the tine I spend ridinf this bike fairly casually, hence the current setup.
I think youre 100% right about this fork being too long for the bike. I guess another reason why i should probably get a new one. Works well on the trails though. Feels really light and good dampening.
I've measured this frame myself. 23 inches from centre of BB to top of seat tube.
The trails are all far from me. I usually put my front trail tire on, leave the hybrid tire on the rear and strap my rear trail rim to my backpack. One rim doesn't weigh much. Ridiculous I know, but it's a 1.5 hour (that's if I'm going fast, no wind, no breaks) bike ride one way.
I want the handlebars to be high up like this so I don't lean forward excessively. I still lean forward just a little, and its enough to cause the front tire to lose traction when im pushing hard through the turns.
This is how the bike looked when I first bought it. Looks like the fork was already bent before I even got it.
- The frame was designed for a 63mm or 80mm travel fork, Im guessing.
- That frame is 23" by how you measure, but its a meaningless number since how much material is above the top tube doesnt matter. It could be another 4" of material, but that doesnt mean its a 27" frame.
- Riding for an hour and a half each way with a wheel strapped to your back is completely absurd. Blunt, but if you are real and this isnt a joke, then hopefully you evaluate the benefit vs effort and see its absurd.
- Are you then riding singletrack(with all the bumps, roots, logs, etc) with a wheel attached to you once you reach the trail? Even if you only ride the trails for an hour, thats a 4 hour trip with a wheel attached to you. How is this at all the solution you came to?
Last edited by mstateglfr; 10-07-20 at 01:41 PM.
10-07-20, 01:43 PM
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Kips Bay, NY
Posts: 2,212
Bikes: Ritchey Swiss Cross | Teesdale Kona Hot | Haro Extreme | Specialized Stumpjumper Comp | Cannondale F1000 | Shogun 1000 | Cannondale M500 | Norco Charger | Marin Muirwoods 29er | Shogun Kaze | Breezer Lightning
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 576 Post(s)
Liked 1,001 Times
in
488 Posts
Likes For DorkDisk:
10-07-20, 05:53 PM
#12
Drip, Drip.
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Southern Ontario
Posts: 1,575
Bikes: Trek Verve E bike, Felt Doctrine 4 XC, Opus Horizon Apex 1
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1034 Post(s)
Liked 193 Times
in
163 Posts
Theres a little community farm beside the entrance to the trails where i can safely store my other wheel. I mean.. it could work.
GT measures this frame at 20" up to the top tube, so you're right there.
10-07-20, 05:53 PM
#13
Drip, Drip.
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Southern Ontario
Posts: 1,575
Bikes: Trek Verve E bike, Felt Doctrine 4 XC, Opus Horizon Apex 1
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1034 Post(s)
Liked 193 Times
in
163 Posts
So much to unpack here.
1- the fork is on backwards...sorta. The stanchion bridge should be on the front of the fork. But the brake mount studs and dropouts are facing the correct way. Odd setup, cant figure whats going on there and am not interested to look at the picture more to figure it out since there is so much more hot mess to address. Does the fork look bent because it should be turned the other way with the stanchions rotated?
2- the fork travel looks longer than what that frame is designed for. It may just be the picture, but it seems you need a lower suspension travel fork. Your front end is jacked up a bunch and the frame geometry looks super slack. With how jacked up the front end is, the fork being bent actually offsets the slackness.
3- that is a 23" frame? Looks at least a couple inches smaller.
4- the stem extension setup is crazy to see, but if its what you need to get the bike to fit, then so be it. Adjusting the stem angle depending on if you are climbing or not seems like a curious process. Thats a lot of process effort just to climb a hill.
5- you are literally carrying another wheelset on your back?!? what?!?! That is insane and there is no way you are riding trails that require MTB tires with a wheelset on your back(the switched out set). This is like a bad Rube Goldberg cycling idea.
6- if you switch to a rigid fork, then get one that matches what your frame was designed for. Get the correct axle to crown length fork.
1- the fork is on backwards...sorta. The stanchion bridge should be on the front of the fork. But the brake mount studs and dropouts are facing the correct way. Odd setup, cant figure whats going on there and am not interested to look at the picture more to figure it out since there is so much more hot mess to address. Does the fork look bent because it should be turned the other way with the stanchions rotated?
2- the fork travel looks longer than what that frame is designed for. It may just be the picture, but it seems you need a lower suspension travel fork. Your front end is jacked up a bunch and the frame geometry looks super slack. With how jacked up the front end is, the fork being bent actually offsets the slackness.
3- that is a 23" frame? Looks at least a couple inches smaller.
4- the stem extension setup is crazy to see, but if its what you need to get the bike to fit, then so be it. Adjusting the stem angle depending on if you are climbing or not seems like a curious process. Thats a lot of process effort just to climb a hill.
5- you are literally carrying another wheelset on your back?!? what?!?! That is insane and there is no way you are riding trails that require MTB tires with a wheelset on your back(the switched out set). This is like a bad Rube Goldberg cycling idea.
6- if you switch to a rigid fork, then get one that matches what your frame was designed for. Get the correct axle to crown length fork.
10-09-20, 12:34 PM
#14
Drip, Drip.
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Southern Ontario
Posts: 1,575
Bikes: Trek Verve E bike, Felt Doctrine 4 XC, Opus Horizon Apex 1
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1034 Post(s)
Liked 193 Times
in
163 Posts
So much to unpack here.
1- the fork is on backwards...sorta. The stanchion bridge should be on the front of the fork. But the brake mount studs and dropouts are facing the correct way. Odd setup, cant figure whats going on there and am not interested to look at the picture more to figure it out since there is so much more hot mess to address. Does the fork look bent because it should be turned the other way with the stanchions rotated?
2- the fork travel looks longer than what that frame is designed for. It may just be the picture, but it seems you need a lower suspension travel fork. Your front end is jacked up a bunch and the frame geometry looks super slack. With how jacked up the front end is, the fork being bent actually offsets the slackness.
3- that is a 23" frame? Looks at least a couple inches smaller.
4- the stem extension setup is crazy to see, but if its what you need to get the bike to fit, then so be it. Adjusting the stem angle depending on if you are climbing or not seems like a curious process. Thats a lot of process effort just to climb a hill.
5- you are literally carrying another wheelset on your back?!? what?!?! That is insane and there is no way you are riding trails that require MTB tires with a wheelset on your back(the switched out set). This is like a bad Rube Goldberg cycling idea.
6- if you switch to a rigid fork, then get one that matches what your frame was designed for. Get the correct axle to crown length fork.
1- the fork is on backwards...sorta. The stanchion bridge should be on the front of the fork. But the brake mount studs and dropouts are facing the correct way. Odd setup, cant figure whats going on there and am not interested to look at the picture more to figure it out since there is so much more hot mess to address. Does the fork look bent because it should be turned the other way with the stanchions rotated?
2- the fork travel looks longer than what that frame is designed for. It may just be the picture, but it seems you need a lower suspension travel fork. Your front end is jacked up a bunch and the frame geometry looks super slack. With how jacked up the front end is, the fork being bent actually offsets the slackness.
3- that is a 23" frame? Looks at least a couple inches smaller.
4- the stem extension setup is crazy to see, but if its what you need to get the bike to fit, then so be it. Adjusting the stem angle depending on if you are climbing or not seems like a curious process. Thats a lot of process effort just to climb a hill.
5- you are literally carrying another wheelset on your back?!? what?!?! That is insane and there is no way you are riding trails that require MTB tires with a wheelset on your back(the switched out set). This is like a bad Rube Goldberg cycling idea.
6- if you switch to a rigid fork, then get one that matches what your frame was designed for. Get the correct axle to crown length fork.
I've been doing some research about rigid forks. I've learned about the axle to crown length (atc) with suspension corrected forks. I think i should aim for a 405mm fork, which translates to roughly 60mm suspension travel.
I read somewhere that The Zaskar was designed for forks from 320mm-405mm. Ill have to find that link. Would it make any sense going for less than 405mm?
10-09-20, 02:03 PM
#15
Sunshine
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 16,604
Bikes: '18 class built steel roadbike, '19 Fairlight Secan, '88 Schwinn Premis , Black Mountain Cycles Monstercross V4, '89 Novara Trionfo
Mentioned: 123 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10947 Post(s)
Liked 7,473 Times
in
4,181 Posts
I've been doing some research about rigid forks. I've learned about the axle to crown length (atc) with suspension corrected forks. I think i should aim for a 405mm fork, which translates to roughly 60mm suspension travel.
I read somewhere that The Zaskar was designed for forks from 320mm-405mm. Ill have to find that link. Would it make any sense going for less than 405mm?
I read somewhere that The Zaskar was designed for forks from 320mm-405mm. Ill have to find that link. Would it make any sense going for less than 405mm?
Something like this would work once its back in stock soon- Bikeman Carver Bikes Steel Rigid Mountain Fork, 1-1/8'' 410mm
or this- https://www.carboncycles.cc/?s=0&c=92&p=201
Or since this current bike doesnt fit you well, maybe look into one that does fit. Sell this, dont spend money on the fork, and use that money to buy something that fits. The 20" frame is clearly too small for you if how you have it set up is a comfortable fit. You could easily ride a 22" MTB frame which would allow you to not have so many stem spacers plus extender plus super upright stem. Reduce that list of stuff jacking the stem up by a few and bring the kludges down from an insane amount of kludges to just a crazy amount of kludges.
You do you though. I long ago accepted that someone who rides 2 hours with half a wheelset strapped to their back for a 1 hour trail ride is gonna do what they think is best regardless of advice.
10-09-20, 09:58 PM
#16
Drip, Drip.
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Southern Ontario
Posts: 1,575
Bikes: Trek Verve E bike, Felt Doctrine 4 XC, Opus Horizon Apex 1
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1034 Post(s)
Liked 193 Times
in
163 Posts
Right, I misread that. 385mm would probably fit but is a bit small for this bike. around 405mm is just about right. anything above 425mm is a no-go. I measured my current fork at roughly 475mm. Shame that the previous owner who built up this bike did not look around for the right size, because this perfectly good Manitou is now wasted.
Lol, well, my plan is to upgrade the fork at any rate. Ill be going to a bike hub where I will very likely be able to find the correct size fork and install it for free.Truthfully, I still love this frame very much, I will patiently look around the classified and see if I find something else thats decent at 23+ inches, which won't be easy.
Best bet for me would be to keep riding this thing until stuff gets back in stock, and then find something more suited to my size whenever that happens. But I really don't think I will find something much better, to be truthful. Removing a few spacers will hardly make any difference.
In the meantime, I can either lower the angle on my adjustable stem to about 20 degrees OR remove some of the spacers. My current position still causes me to lean forward a little more than what would be considered upright and comfortable for simple cruising - I'd say sort of in between, So with a simple adjustment to the stem, I can at least rip singletracks in comfort. As long as I don't do anything too crazy, especially with a rigid fork, I think the bike will suffice for now.
I know it'd be better to just sell or give away the frame to someone better suited in size, I just love this frame too much to part ways with it. My plan is to have it as a secondary gravel/road shredder. It's very good
10-10-20, 05:52 AM
#17
Expired Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: TN
Posts: 11,503
Mentioned: 37 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3650 Post(s)
Liked 5,389 Times
in
2,734 Posts
So much entertainment in this thread....
10-10-20, 07:26 AM
#18
Advanced Slacker
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 6,210
Bikes: Soma Fog Cutter, Surly Wednesday, Canfielld Tilt
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2761 Post(s)
Liked 2,534 Times
in
1,433 Posts
When you say the bike is 23”, do you mean the seat tube or the top tube?
Surely the hassle of carrying around a 2nd wheelset and swapping at the trailhead cannot possibly be easier than just riding the knobby tires to the trail.
But hey, whatever floats your boat.
Surely the hassle of carrying around a 2nd wheelset and swapping at the trailhead cannot possibly be easier than just riding the knobby tires to the trail.
But hey, whatever floats your boat.
Last edited by Kapusta; 10-10-20 at 07:36 AM.
10-12-20, 09:07 AM
#19
Drip, Drip.
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Southern Ontario
Posts: 1,575
Bikes: Trek Verve E bike, Felt Doctrine 4 XC, Opus Horizon Apex 1
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1034 Post(s)
Liked 193 Times
in
163 Posts
Suspension fork doesn't actually make turning response slow unless it has ridiculous amount of play (which is a sure sign to replace or repair)
Rigid fork is better if you never intend to ride in MTB trails. Suspension fork isn't bad either if your bike already has one. It's only bad if you never ride in MTB trails, you ride over lots of hills (road or gravel), and if you pedal out of the saddle a lot (it will bob up and down a lot in that case, wasting energy).
Rigid fork is better if you never intend to ride in MTB trails. Suspension fork isn't bad either if your bike already has one. It's only bad if you never ride in MTB trails, you ride over lots of hills (road or gravel), and if you pedal out of the saddle a lot (it will bob up and down a lot in that case, wasting energy).
I see rigid forks which are straight (MTB style) and then raked forwards, like the one I got recently. What are the differences between the two and which one would you recommend? As far as I know, the forward rake helps increase the wheelbase a bit and mainly increases stability at speed. I think its a good setup overall because it helps blend the fast handling of a steep head tube angle with an increase in overall stability. My new cromo fork (if you take a look at my other thread regarding frame geometry) has been measured at 420mm. that's almost 60-70mm shorter than the original bent Manitou I had on there. Steering speed and precision has drastically increased and the bike is much faster now.
I think, most likely, I will not do that...
Frame measures at just under 21" to the top of the top tube. 23" to the top of the seat tube.
10-12-20, 10:19 AM
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Paradise, TX
Posts: 2,087
Bikes: Soma Pescadero, Surly Pugsley, Salsa Fargo, Schwinn Klunker, Gravity SS 27.5, Monocog 29er
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 186 Post(s)
Liked 234 Times
in
166 Posts
I wouldn't bring another wheel to ride trails. I run a fat knobbie up front with a semi slick rear for combined rides. The smooth rear makes the bike a little faster on the roads. The knobbie up front helps keep the bike under control on the trails. Rigid forks are fine for trail riding as long as you have a fat front tire.
10-12-20, 03:18 PM
#21
Drip, Drip.
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Southern Ontario
Posts: 1,575
Bikes: Trek Verve E bike, Felt Doctrine 4 XC, Opus Horizon Apex 1
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1034 Post(s)
Liked 193 Times
in
163 Posts
Got a new fork. Only fits the brakes if you use a 27.5" tire.
Its amazing how raising the front axle with simply the difference between a 26 and 27.5" wheel changes the handling of the bike..
Its amazing how raising the front axle with simply the difference between a 26 and 27.5" wheel changes the handling of the bike..
10-12-20, 03:29 PM
#22
Expired Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: TN
Posts: 11,503
Mentioned: 37 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3650 Post(s)
Liked 5,389 Times
in
2,734 Posts
10-12-20, 03:34 PM
#23
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2020
Posts: 67
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 26 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 21 Times
in
15 Posts
Good bike. Put the right size fork on it and you will have an excellent bike. Bontrager makes tires that are good for off-road/on road. Aggressive pattern on edge of tire. Thin more hybrid type centers. They work good as advertised.
10-12-20, 03:35 PM
#24
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2020
Posts: 67
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 26 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 21 Times
in
15 Posts
https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/e...olorCode=black
have enjoyed this tire and I ride on road some with it
have enjoyed this tire and I ride on road some with it
10-12-20, 03:47 PM
#25
Drip, Drip.
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Southern Ontario
Posts: 1,575
Bikes: Trek Verve E bike, Felt Doctrine 4 XC, Opus Horizon Apex 1
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1034 Post(s)
Liked 193 Times
in
163 Posts
Its the right size and shape fork for this bike. Using the 27.5" wheel raises the front end by roughly 20mm more than what the bike is designed for, but as long as I dont go any higher shouldnt be a problem. The bigger wheel definetely did slow down the handling a little bit, but the bike still feels fantastic. Very fast, sharp handling.. quite a pleasure to ride.
