48T Chainring or 52T Chainring?
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48T Chainring or 52T Chainring?
I'm trying to avoid buying an inexpensive folding bike that seems to lack the proper gears. I have a bike with 7 gears which are usually enough for me. However, when I'm on a flat surface and want to really pedal effectively, my current bike seems to lack the "next gear." Is this a function of how many teeth are on the chainring? If so, how many teeth should I look for? If it's not the chainring, what is it a function of?
Thank you,
Sabi
Thank you,
Sabi
#2
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You seem to already know the answer based on the title of this thread. A lot of folders come with a 7-speed freewheel and single front chainring, with the chainring sized as a compromise between flat speed and hill-climbing ability. If you think you can live without your lowest current gear ratio then a larger chainring is the ticket. How you get there depends on the bike: If you have a crank with a removable chainring then you're good to..a 4-tooth bump probably won't even require a longer chain. But a lot of those 7-speed folders have one-piece cranks, so you'll need a whole new crankset in that case.
#3
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Count teeth, do the math ? it's a Ratio..
you can also put on a cheap double chainring and just change gears with your fingers..
when stopped.. Aka, greasy finger shifting..
you can also put on a cheap double chainring and just change gears with your fingers..
when stopped.. Aka, greasy finger shifting..
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I'm trying to avoid buying an inexpensive folding bike that seems to lack the proper gears. I have a bike with 7 gears which are usually enough for me. However, when I'm on a flat surface and want to really pedal effectively, my current bike seems to lack the "next gear." Is this a function of how many teeth are on the chainring? If so, how many teeth should I look for? If it's not the chainring, what is it a function of?
Thank you,
Sabi
Thank you,
Sabi
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Very Helpful Responses
Thank you for all the helpful responses. I'm going to take the little bike to my local bike shop and get them to upgrade it with a bigger chainring.
Sabi
PS I loved the "greasy finger" shifting.
Sabi
PS I loved the "greasy finger" shifting.
Last edited by Sabi; 08-25-17 at 04:19 PM.
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Just remember your lowest gear will become faster too making hills harder to climb. If you don't want that you'll have to change your rear freewheel/cassette to something with more teeth on the largest cog. I think there is a 14-34 Shimano freewheel. It really depends on what is fitted there already and what your derailleur will work with. I'm sure your bike shop will advise. If there is a single labour charge in play and they are reasonable for freewheels then that might be an option. Also if your chainring and freewheel have already had a lot of use you are probably best advised to change chainring, freewheel and chain all at the same time. Might be expensive though.
#7
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52 teeth would be better if you live in a flat area. I run a 53/11 top gear combination with 20" wheels, and I often find myself wanting an extra gear, or even two.
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Our folders are 46T and 52T respectively, and both have a 34-11T DNP in back. I would rather have them both at 52T. The difference in teeth is about the same as the difference between 16 mph and 18 mph, which are the upper speeds I get on both bikes with a comfortable pedal speed.
The gear is about $50 on ebay. Maybe $100 to buy one and have it installed at a bike shop?
Edit: One more comment. I hope you like to shift. My wife doesn't and she was complaining about falling down trying to start off on a hill with that 52T. Me, I love clicking the gears up and down on both cars and bikes.
The gear is about $50 on ebay. Maybe $100 to buy one and have it installed at a bike shop?
Edit: One more comment. I hope you like to shift. My wife doesn't and she was complaining about falling down trying to start off on a hill with that 52T. Me, I love clicking the gears up and down on both cars and bikes.
Last edited by Doc_Wui; 08-27-17 at 07:57 AM.