rccardr 

That 105 group is classic. Works well, works forever.
Those single pivot calipers are some of the best SP brakes ever made, but yeah, they need new pads to replace the 33 year old rock hard ones.
That RD will shift up to a 28 tooth cog, makes it easier to get up some of the local hills with a 39 small ring.

RobbieTunes

Agreed. Rocket.

Try the same with modern wheels and external cub BB/crankset.

Holy 🥕 carrot sticks, Batman!

RobbieTunes

World dominance comes slowly, with small victories for the Ironman Empire.

canklecat

Try some cable liners in the brazed metal cable guides under the bottom bracket. It'll smooth out the front derailleur shifting. I installed new cables a few weeks ago and couldn't find my loop of cable liner, so I made some from cotton swabs with plastic stems -- a whole buck a package from the dollar store. Works great.

Regular cable liner might be better for more complex routing, like the metal noodles around the seat cluster for the cantilever brakes on my Univega. But for the simple arc under the Ironman's BB, those plastic stems on cheap cotton swabs are fine.

Regarding braking, I noticed a big difference when both rear rims cracked on anodized box section Araya CTL-370 and Wolber Super Champion Alpine wheels. After umpteen years and lots of miles on bad roads the spokes pulled up and cracked the rims. Braking was always sketchy with those hard anodized rims. I replaced them with plain aluminum Araya and Mavic semi-aero rims and braking was much more positive. Nearly tossed me forward the first time I braked hard on a downhill.

I preferred the looks of the grey anodized rims, though. I saved the front wheels from both sets and might eventually find matching rims to build complete wheelsets again. And I'll pay closer attention to spoke tension.

But switching to plain black Jagwire pads on one bike, and Shimano's cheapest pad/shoe combo for another, helped with a couple of bikes. The original pads were like hard wooden blocks in comparison.

texaspandj

Here's where I'm at...or stuck.

Not very pretty.

Worse, it's too short. The frame is a 54cm, the fork came from a 54cm. Oh well it was just temporary til I found a suitable replacement or paint it to match. There are several possibilities for the discrepancies including component choice however I think it's headtube size brought on by a geometry change.

thejohnreyes

My 1987 Terry is finished. I just need to hit it with the goo be gone due to the gazillion stickers I had to remove from it.

texaspandj

Cool. So how many Ironman do you have?

Phil_gretz

This turned out to have been the problem. Exactly. I pulled the new inner cables, and sure enough, they showed signs of wear just at the point where they pass through that metal cable guide beneath. I inserted two small lengths of liner, and bingo. Thanks for pointing to this. PG

thejohnreyes

I’m at 5.

RobbieTunes

We do that stuff here in the Ironman arena. Glad it worked for you.

I used to use spare housing in curves where the area/bracket/guides had space.
I've bent a few prongs back on certain Treks so I could put a piece of cable housing in there.
I think I started using liner when I found a roll of it for $2 at a yard sale.
I never liked the idea of metal on metal, or even sharp bends, for that matter.

I'm working on a bike where the frame is built with liner running internally from the DT cable stops to the FD and RD.
All the way. No fishing or foul language. Then I ran the brake cable housing right through the TT, and it routed itself.
Who'da thought, in 1996?

RobbieTunes

Can you measure the length of the steerer that's too short? I may have a fork, along with your polished one already in the box.
I do need your address, though, as my PM's evaporated.

texaspandj

Ok cool, will do.

RobbieTunes

This is not an Ironman.
But I have some spare decals.....

(It's heavier then my red/white '88)

spank226

Again, not a Centurion but IS a Centurion...

The COLORS!! (and for sale cheap https://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/...210731253.html )

seypat

What a head turner! It definitely makes you take a look.

I know, don't quit my day job.

seypat

I like that paint scheme! I was supposed to post a pic of mine. I guess I should do it.

seypat

Here you go. I bought this bike from a CL seller in the Norfolk VA area. It has the stickers from Hirako Cycles in Zushi, Japan. As with all of my bikes, I put a triple and barcons on it. It also has different rims. I put a new set of Black Contis on yesterday. I usually run gummies.



The shop sticker with phone number is fading away.


Hirako Cycles is still in business.

https://www.hirako.com/

seypat

While I was putting new shoes on the IM, it occurred to me that I have 3 IM color schemes and lots of different rim/tire color combos lying around. I put some of the different combos on the bikes so people can see what it will look like before they lay down some coin.

First, the MV IM. You see the black/black combo above, here are others:







My opinion:
The silver and gummies didn't look good enough to even post.
The silver/black looks better than I thought it would.
The black/dark gummies look good and better than the light gummies.
The black/black is quickly growing on me!

seypat

Next is the red and white beater/loaner IM which is the test mule for my how to posts.







My opinion:
You really can't go wrong with any of them. I can't decide. The silver/black and black/black really make the old battle axe look a lot better.

mstateglfr 

Whats the deal with the inchworm stem? Are there 2 pivot points to extend/angle the bars to the correct position or am I totally wrong with that guess?

seypat

Up last we have this bike. It's not an IM, but is an IM paint scheme.





My opinion:
Old school original is ok, but the other two are hot!
The silver/black is sweet.
The black/black with black bar tape could be the way to go.
Again, I can't decide.

RobbieTunes

It's what Look put on there. There's supposed to be some kind of vibration damping in there.

This is their idea of 54cm. Were I to write the ad, I'd say "fits riders 5'6" to 6'6" tall."
The seat post has at least 150mm more available down in the ST.
You can bolt the cradle into 3 different holes on the post.
Add in saddle rail positioning, and you've got a LOT of variance for sizing.
The stem has, yes, two pivot points, 3 if you count the bar clamp.
A LOT of variance is possible fore/aft and up/down.

Doc would love to play with this thing.

BFisher

@Phil_gretz, nice '87 classic! I really like mine a lot. Such a great bike. I built mine with Sora R3000 and it has been flawless.

Your paint looks nicer than mine. Good luck with it.

madpogue 

Well, it turns something......

thejohnreyes

Im feeling the black/black on the JDM and the silver on the red/white. I’ll bet the silver would look great on a black 89 Expert or the grey fade master/Expert.