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Calling BianchiGirll: Advised on Saving old Celeste...

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Calling BianchiGirll: Advised on Saving old Celeste...

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Old 07-10-17, 05:46 PM
  #26  
machinist42
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Originally Posted by machinist42
Raku.
The "crackle" or "checking" is a (highly desirable) quality possessed by ceramics fired in the Raku tradition, and is known as a Raku finish in one of my worlds.

Much as "patina" is misused in this C&V world, perhaps "Raku" can be (in)appropriately applied as a descriptor for paint exhibiting the minute fractalization? (Or fractalized works too?)

(Oh, and by the way, I echo the sentiment expressed by many others that the finish should stay. It's gorgeous.)
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Old 07-10-17, 11:30 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by jon c.
A store that sells auto paint can match any color and put it in a can. And if you match the paint as it looks now, you should get a better match than if you could find the original Celeste.

It probably wouldn't be just exactly perfect as paint matching never seems to work that way, but it would be as close as you can get.
You'd be surprised how difficult it is to match paint. To be done properly, the paint needs to be applied, let dry (or baked correctly), then adjusted.

With that said, bianchi celeste would be pretty easy to match. No metallic flake, seems to be a heavily white based paint, it covers well, and the paint is not transparent at all. It'd be a lovely paint to match actually.
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Old 07-11-17, 09:41 PM
  #28  
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thnxs for the Tip!👍
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Old 07-12-17, 01:38 AM
  #29  
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Save the paint money and get a Gewiss jersey. You can channel Argentin winning LBL.
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Old 07-12-17, 03:56 AM
  #30  
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The cracking paint is not limited to Bianchi. Here is a 1972 Motobecane Le Champion with micro cracking. You have to look closely but it is there not only on the light color but also in the blue.
[IMG]2008-06-01 08.52.48, on Flickr[/IMG][IMG]2008-06-07 15.40.36, on Flickr[/IMG]
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Old 07-12-17, 10:32 AM
  #31  
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Reviewing the pics again and I see the touch ups. Being such a lighter color, those do stand out. If you are really unhappy with the finish, you could powdercoat. There is a standard powder color that is close-ish to celeste, but I don't have it handy right now. It might work for you if you want a cheap durable finish that comes close to celeste.
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Old 07-12-17, 11:54 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by tricky
Reviewing the pics again and I see the touch ups. Being such a lighter color, those do stand out. If you are really unhappy with the finish, you could powdercoat. There is a standard powder color that is close-ish to celeste, but I don't have it handy right now. It might work for you if you want a cheap durable finish that comes close to celeste.
@canflyboy recommends Dupont CAS386. @Lascauxcaveman mentions RAL6027.
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Old 07-12-17, 01:26 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by SloButWide
@canflyboy recommends Dupont CAS386. @Lascauxcaveman mentions RAL6027.
Saving this info, thanks! Can those colors be used in powdercoat?

Edit: I see that the RAL color is a powdercoat specific thing. Thanks again.
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Old 07-12-17, 06:34 PM
  #34  
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When I had my Celeste formula scanned, this is what they came up with:

Nason Ful-Thane single stage "IS"

Spectramaster GS334

tinting guide per 16 oz.

430-03 H.S.white 137.3
430-07 Ochre 171.5
430-11 Green 195.9
430-02 Carbon black 203.7
435-82 Nason 2.8 voc ss binder 486.8
441-21 Medium ful-base reducer 528.5

As mentioned in my previous post, this is what the scanner matched to my sample. It is not an exact match, as they match to the closest color on file.
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Old 07-14-17, 09:58 AM
  #35  
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I also dig the crackle. I've got my eye on a black one from this era. It's been a while since I've had a true road bike and my last one was a Bianchi Proto (MAX). Can't find one of those again I bet.
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Old 07-14-17, 11:19 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Bianchigirll
Yes sadly that crackling paint was spread across the line, I think and Formula 2 frame in Celeste was susceptible to it. very bad quality control that year.

It isn't as bad but my '88 Trofeo had the same issue.
Crazing is what it is called in ceramics/shrinking and swelling of the base clay. Funny that would happen on steel-you would need extream temperature circumstances for metal. Guess not impossibele, given areas-storage spaces and whatnot. Not often seen tho. I would treat it as patina and seal the best I could. Celest is sooooo preeeeety!
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Old 07-14-17, 11:55 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by juls
Crazing is what it is called in ceramics/shrinking and swelling of the base clay. Funny that would happen on steel-you would need extream temperature circumstances for metal. Guess not impossibele, given areas-storage spaces and whatnot. Not often seen tho. I would treat it as patina and seal the best I could. Celest is sooooo preeeeety!
Uhmmm.... The crazing shown in the pics on this thread is only happening on the paint, not the steel under it....
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Old 07-14-17, 12:06 PM
  #38  
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It is the expand and shrinkage of the base material/not the paint.....thus the splitting of the (paint)finish. Ceramic finishes are fired-much like painted frame finishes. Trying to corrorellate why this may be similar. Im thinking cheaper paint myself, as it is NOT the norm. Opines welcome-I like to learn.

Steel as far as I know dosent craze.
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Old 07-19-17, 06:52 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by juls
It is the expand and shrinkage of the base material/not the paint.....thus the splitting of the (paint)finish. Ceramic finishes are fired-much like painted frame finishes. Trying to corrorellate why this may be similar. Im thinking cheaper paint myself, as it is NOT the norm. Opines welcome-I like to learn.

Steel as far as I know dosent craze.
Whelp, Google says:
A craze is typically considered a surface defect, developing most often in acrylic paints or mediums that when applied, begin to form a skin while the material underneath is still fluid and wet. The very flexible acrylic film can usually stretch quite easily as the edges of the skin begin to dry, requiring the center of the film to continue to stretch as water evaporates and the film shrinks. In some cases, the center areas of the drying film can no longer take the stress of shrinking and a tear in the upper part of the film occurs.

...

At times the crazing phenomena can occur in very thin films. More often than not, this sort of crazed surface is the result of the lack of a coating being able to wet out the layer below. So as the stresses caused by the evaporation of water continue, areas where the cohesive force of the acrylic film is greater than it’s attraction to the substrate or paint layer below, you begin to see these same crevices in the film. In extreme circumstances this crazing can actually leave breaks in the film.
I don't know if the same process is involved for enamel on steel, especially when talking about crazing that shows up years later.
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Old 07-19-17, 10:22 AM
  #40  
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The color on that frame is cracking because it's lacquer. If lacquer isn't catalyzed, it air dries. Problem is, it never really completely dries, so it starts to shrink. That's what you're seeing. GM automobiles of the 50s and 60s experienced the same thing (GM used lacquer because it dried fast ad shined like crazy for a year, Ford and MoPar used enamels.)

Matching the color is a drag because both the hue and the chroma are tricky to properly change. Adding black can easily gray the color out, so a blue or a green is probably more in order, but which one? A Green-shade blue, or a blue-shade green? So many variables with this color.

Although I doubt it'd be an exact match, FoMoCo had a color for Lincoln in 1976 that is remarkably close to the 80s Celeste color. The color is Light Jade, code 7A.
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Old 07-19-17, 10:54 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by feesh
I think that cracking looks very cool! But I also think old guitars with checking in the lacquer looks great.
No way I would try to "fix" that.
Seconded. On the bike and guitar front.
Interesting how a refinishing kills the value of a guitar or piece of furniture so much more than a bike ... why is that?
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Old 07-19-17, 11:13 AM
  #42  
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Add one more to team cracking! It looks amazing, and standing out from all the other celeste Bianchi's out there is probably a good thing, no?

Along those lines, this might be a newbie question, but why do so many people capitalize celeste, and/or use it like it is a model name? I won't even get into most variations of celeste being more blue than green...
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Old 02-19-20, 02:20 AM
  #43  
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Paint

Originally Posted by T-Mar
None of which would have happened, if it had been Made in Japan.
a lot of painters can “distress”. You want tarnished brass - no prob. something aluminum to look like rusty metal? fiberglass - to look like rusty metal - no prob.
Cracking? - uncured lacquer bass, enamel top.
Lil reduced white on tops of tubes of Celeste gives the appearance of oxidation.
Nice to know if there’s any color formula. If I mix it, I’ll mix enough for the whole Bike Forum!
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Old 02-19-20, 05:43 AM
  #44  
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I think you can get all of the DIY satisfaction, at a fraction of the cost, of NOT re-painting, but instead doing a full tear-down, clean, spot touch up including wet sand of the touch ups, fixing up scuffs with a polishing compound (Meguiars seems popular here), ordering in new replacement decals from a good source like Velocals or Cyclomondo, and THEN waxing and rebuilding. Just did that with this PX10 (only the small Reynolds and Nervex decals on the fork and beneath the seat needed replacement):



By the way, great choice and great deal you got there!!!
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Old 02-19-20, 07:58 AM
  #45  
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I kinda like the patina on that. My vote is clean it up, run some new cables and wax it up. I like Renaissance Wax...great stuff.
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Old 02-19-20, 09:27 AM
  #46  
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Paint revival

Originally Posted by KenNC
I think you can get all of the DIY satisfaction, at a fraction of the cost, of NOT re-painting, but instead doing a full tear-down, clean, spot touch up including wet sand of the touch ups, fixing up scuffs with a polishing compound (Meguiars seems popular here), ordering in new replacement decals from a good source like Velocals or Cyclomondo, and THEN waxing and rebuilding. Just did that with this PX10 (only the small Reynolds and Nervex decals on the fork and beneath the seat needed replacement):



By the way, great choice and great deal you got there!!!
Hallelujah brother amen! My language - 2500 grit sanding sponges can work some magic.
Nice job preserving this one!
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