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Cyclocross and Gravelbiking (Recreational) This has to be the most physically intense sport ever invented. It's high speed bicycle racing on a short off road course or riding the off pavement rides on gravel like : "Unbound Gravel". We also have a dedicated Racing forum for the Cyclocross Hard Core Racers.

GRX vs. Ultegra

Old 08-31-19, 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by bonsai171
As stated in the original post, it will mostly be used for gravel, and some bikepacking. If I had to put numbers to it, the gravel would be maybe 90%, and 10% bikepacking. That being said, we live in a semi-rural part of Georgia. In our backyard is access to some chunkier gravel riding/singletrack. It would be fairly easy to do 60-80 miles of riding (with a decent % being gravel) just leaving from our front door. Terrain is moderately hilly-most rides consist of at least 2000 ft climbing, sometimes as much as 4000 ft. Going further north into the Cohutta mountains would mean even more gravel and more climbing 10-15% climbs aren't that unusual there. Could easily climb 6,000-10000 ft there. There is a climb in the Cohuttas I did last year which took over an hour to complete, and 30 min just to descend! Haven't seen too many bikes that come stock with enough gears, and the ones they have seem to be more for regular gravel (higher gearing). This is why I'm planning to build something. The more expensive bikes tend to be 1X systems too, which for me, is a negative.




Dave
I have an 2x system on my Giant, 46/32 FSA front and 11-40 rear. I found that set up to be pretty solid for similar terrain. If you are a strong rider that should give you a pretty good base to work from.

My opinion is just get the 105 and the rx, then spend the extra money on a nice carbon wheelset.
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Old 09-01-19, 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by bonsai171
Looks like the min low sprocket is 40t (not 36t).

https://bike.shimano.com/en-NZ/produ.../RD-RX812.html

Back to the drawing board.
I believe you can use an MTB Di2 rear derailleur with GRX components and it goes up to 42 teeth on the rear with no problem.
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Old 09-01-19, 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by wsteve464
I believe you can use an MTB Di2 rear derailleur with GRX components and it goes up to 42 teeth on the rear with no problem.
Looks like the DI2 GRX derailleur would work too. Unfortunately the derailleurs cost a small forture. Had another idea. There is an SLX crankset with 38T/28T (SLX FC-M7000-2) which will work with a 11-42 cassette. That combo would yield ~17-18 gear inches. Is there a front derailleur, rear derailleur, and set of hydraulic STI shifters that would work this this combo? Could be a winner.

Dave
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Old 09-02-19, 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by bonsai171
Looks like the DI2 GRX derailleur would work too. Unfortunately the derailleurs cost a small forture. Had another idea. There is an SLX crankset with 38T/28T (SLX FC-M7000-2) which will work with a 11-42 cassette. That combo would yield ~17-18 gear inches. Is there a front derailleur, rear derailleur, and set of hydraulic STI shifters that would work this this combo? Could be a winner.

Dave
Czme across this article, thought it might help you.


https://road.cc/content/feature/2464...ike-adventures
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Old 09-02-19, 08:31 PM
  #30  
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Additional GRX information...

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Old 09-02-19, 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by TimothyH
Additional GRX information...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D79XP74K6KA
The dropper post sounds interesting, but I always thought of it as more of a single track thing. Maybe it would be good for going over washboarded gravel?

Been thinking about the whole drivetrain dilemma too. Might even be better to go 1x the way GRX is now. Would it be possible to change the chainring on a grx crankset to a 32 t narrow wide chainring and then use a 11-42 cassette? Think the gearing would actually work as far as getting sub 20 gear inches. c'mon shimano, you're not making this easy :-p

Dave
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Old 09-03-19, 07:17 AM
  #32  
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I don't know if a GRX 1x crank will fit a 34 or 32 ring.

You could look at SRAM.

I've also seen MTB 1x Di2 setups using an XT or XTR rear derailleur and TRP Hylex Di2 kit.

https://www.google.com/search?client...=trp+hylex+di2



With the exception of a SRAM solution, all of these would have to be pieced together and expensive.


-Tim-
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Old 09-03-19, 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by bonsai171
The dropper post sounds interesting, but I always thought of it as more of a single track thing. Maybe it would be good for going over washboarded gravel?

Been thinking about the whole drivetrain dilemma too. Might even be better to go 1x the way GRX is now. Would it be possible to change the chainring on a grx crankset to a 32 t narrow wide chainring and then use a 11-42 cassette? Think the gearing would actually work as far as getting sub 20 gear inches. c'mon shimano, you're not making this easy :-p

Dave
The 11- 42 cassette may not provide enough of a gear range if used for a 1x set up. The 11-46 would be slightly better with the only change to the cassette being a larger low cog. The GRX derailleur should be able to handle a few teeth more than its rated for.

Also, if you are going to a 1x system there is no need to use the GRX crankset. Buy a crankset with a direct mount chainring mount and then you can run whatever size and type of chainring you want.
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Old 09-04-19, 07:55 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by bonsai171
I'm in the beginning stages of planning the next gravel bike. It will be used for multi-surface rides and eventually bikepacking, but I also have a dedicated road bike for regular road duty. Been looking at building up a bike from scratch, and need some help deciding between a GRX groupset and a 105/Ultegra mix. I would like a clutch rear derailleur, so that will be either Ultegra or GRX. The big question is whether GRX would be worth it (suspecting it will cost more than a 105/Ultegra mix) or if I can save a few bucks and skip GRX.

So far I speced out a Niner RLT 9 steel with a GRX groupset (46/30 crankset, and 11-36T cassette) which came out to 3k. Also found Excel sports has a Niner RLT 9 RDO already built with Ultegra for 3K. Haven't really decided on a budget for this bike yet, but some input would be appreciated on whether to go with GRX or 105/Ultegra. Maybe some other frames to look at would be helpful (also saw the Jamis Renegade which might work but is a similar price to the Niner RLT 9 steel frame).

Dave
hope you didn't do anything yet....

this is exciting!

https://gravelcyclist.com/bicycle-te...learance-more/
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Old 09-04-19, 08:56 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Metieval
hope you didn't do anything yet....

this is exciting!

https://gravelcyclist.com/bicycle-te...learance-more/
Interesting. I wonder what a seat stay yoke is- thats mentioned in the steel and aluminum frame options as a feature for more tire clearance. Chainstay yokes are used as an effective yet inelegant way to get tire clearance...but seat stay yokes? The pics didnt give enough detail to understand if the author just managed to mis-identify where the yoke is twice in the article, or if it actually is on the seat stay(up near the brake bridge i guess?).
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Old 09-04-19, 10:55 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Metieval
hope you didn't do anything yet....

this is exciting!

https://gravelcyclist.com/bicycle-te...learance-more/
Saw that a few minutes ago! Looks like the biggest change is the max tire clearance of 50mm. I recently switched my old 30lb bike from 2 inch knobby tires down to 1.75" semi-slicks, and noticed a big difference in speed. The tradeoff here is in comfort a little on washboarded roads. Tempted to put the 2 inchers back on lol. Maybe if they had just the right tire pressure?? It is a bit like driving a tank. Don't worry too much about line choice with those lol. I would like to find the perfect balance of comfort vs. Speed, esp for those longer rides that include some single track. The only thing I can think to do is mess around with tire pressure on the 2.0s and leave it, (or leave the semi-slicks on) or set the pressure high on the 2.0s and drop it for the single track, and then bump it back up.

Maybe a big reason why I feel like the 2.0s are slow is the 30lb bike weight too.

Dave
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Old 09-04-19, 12:56 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by bonsai171
Saw that a few minutes ago! Looks like the biggest change is the max tire clearance of 50mm. I recently switched my old 30lb bike from 2 inch knobby tires down to 1.75" semi-slicks, and noticed a big difference in speed. The tradeoff here is in comfort a little on washboarded roads. Tempted to put the 2 inchers back on lol. Maybe if they had just the right tire pressure?? It is a bit like driving a tank. Don't worry too much about line choice with those lol. I would like to find the perfect balance of comfort vs. Speed, esp for those longer rides that include some single track. The only thing I can think to do is mess around with tire pressure on the 2.0s and leave it, (or leave the semi-slicks on) or set the pressure high on the 2.0s and drop it for the single track, and then bump it back up.

Maybe a big reason why I feel like the 2.0s are slow is the 30lb bike weight too.

Dave
of course none of them will be as cheap as buying the 853 frame or ultegra RDO from Excel

I am more interested in seeing how much the geo changed.

where I am about now is leaving me at this conclusion, ditch the dedicated road bike. Ride something like the Niner RDO /giant revolt for fast/multi surface roads. and then picking up something like a Salsa fargo, or Bombtrack beyond 1 for bikepacking deeper exploring.
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Old 07-21-20, 12:51 AM
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46/32 and 11-40

Originally Posted by Bryan C.
I have an 2x system on my Giant, 46/32 FSA front and 11-40 rear. I found that set up to be pretty solid for similar terrain. If you are a strong rider that should give you a pretty good base to work from.

My opinion is just get the 105 and the rx, then spend the extra money on a nice carbon wheelset.
Hello Bryan. It's been a year so no idea if this will reach you. If it does, I'd greatly appreciate your experience with this setup. I am planning the same for my 2020 Grade, which has the R7000GS derailleur (39T capacity) and the FSA Omega Adventure crankset. I will use the Sunrace 11-40 and change the inner ring to 32 because it reduces the chain wrap to 45T and I don't much like the 16T drop in front. My questions, if you don't mind:

- Does this require a Roadlink? If so is it the DM version?
- Does this require a 1.85mm spacer behind the cassette?
- Will a clutched derailleur (RX800 or GRX810) be necessary to deal with the slacker combinations?

Thanks a lot.
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Old 07-21-20, 06:04 AM
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Originally Posted by ms_2020
Hello Bryan. It's been a year so no idea if this will reach you. If it does, I'd greatly appreciate your experience with this setup. I am planning the same for my 2020 Grade, which has the R7000GS derailleur (39T capacity) and the FSA Omega Adventure crankset. I will use the Sunrace 11-40 and change the inner ring to 32 because it reduces the chain wrap to 45T and I don't much like the 16T drop in front. My questions, if you don't mind:

- Does this require a Roadlink? If so is it the DM version?
- Does this require a 1.85mm spacer behind the cassette?
- Will a clutched derailleur (RX800 or GRX810) be necessary to deal with the slacker combinations?

Thanks a lot.
Many people say that the Ultegra RX800 will run an 11-42 cassette without issue. The GRX 812 will handle it for sure, even though Shimano specifies it as a 1x only part. No roadlink needed for either of those. Clutch or no clutch depends on the terrain you want to ride, most gravel riders prefer the clutch off road.

The roadlink DM would probably be the cheapest route to take. At $30, the WolfTooth Roadlink DM might be worth trying short term to see if you like the gearing range.

If you need a cassette spacer or not depends on the size and type of driver you have on your rear hub. What cassette are you using now?

One thing to note is you will need a longer chain. Also, quite a bit of patience and trial & error is needed to find the correct balance between chain length and b-screw adjustment. It may take a few tries to get it dialed in.
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Old 07-21-20, 07:13 AM
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46/32 and 11-40

Thanks very much for responding Bryan. I don't mind the trial and error and have a new chain ready to go. Expecting to need 116 links. The current cassette is 11-34 (11-speed road) for the R7000. The chainset is 46/30 now but like you I plan 46/32. I'm doing this to reduce the front gap to 14T and the total overcapacity to 4T. I ordered a 2mm spacer so can fix a difference in cassette size if needed, as well as a new chain so I can add 2-4 links as needed for the big-big. My main curiosity is how you ended up - successful? Are you still using 46/32 and 11-40 (with RX800?) without problems? If so, is this without a roadlink? I'm not a very experienced mechanic so just checking with others who may have the right experience and be able to help me avoid mistakes. Appreciate you getting back to me.
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Old 07-21-20, 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by ms_2020
Thanks very much for responding Bryan. I don't mind the trial and error and have a new chain ready to go. Expecting to need 116 links. The current cassette is 11-34 (11-speed road) for the R7000. The chainset is 46/30 now but like you I plan 46/32. I'm doing this to reduce the front gap to 14T and the total overcapacity to 4T. I ordered a 2mm spacer so can fix a difference in cassette size if needed, as well as a new chain so I can add 2-4 links as needed for the big-big. My main curiosity is how you ended up - successful? Are you still using 46/32 and 11-40 (with RX800?) without problems? If so, is this without a roadlink? I'm not a very experienced mechanic so just checking with others who may have the right experience and be able to help me avoid mistakes. Appreciate you getting back to me.
So at this moment I have 2 bikes with similar range drivetrains. My Giant Escape is a flat bar hybrid, for that I use a 46/32 chainset, a Tiagra 4700 FD and an SLX 7000 MTB derailleur with an 11 speed 11-42 cassette. Works well for a heavier bike that I load up sometimes.

My other bike is a Diverge with GRX Di2, 48/31 chainset and an 11-42 cassette. I like this set up a tad better. Lower low gear for the steep stuff, and with the 48t chainring I can get that bike moving pretty fast.

Just depends on how you want to use your bike. I have lots of hills nearby and need gearing for that. But also like to ride fast on the flats.

You probably don't need a spacer for your cassette, unless there is one on there now. I would try it without the spacer and see. Should be just fine.
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Old 07-21-20, 08:34 AM
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46/32 and 11-40

Thanks a lot Bryan. Appreciate your assistance. I'm looking forward to the easier gearing. Enjoy your riding - Mark
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Old 07-21-20, 12:43 PM
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For me, if you are OK with a 2X then you can't beat Ultegra for the money. IMO, the reason to go GRX is for the 1X option. I prefer 1X for off road. I believe that at the 600 level the GRX quality starts getting good, I think the crank arms on the 600 are carbon (although I could be wrong). I have 2X Ultegra on my road bike and the front derailer creates problems and is just messy. However, for bike packing you may need the granny gear.
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Old 07-21-20, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by RadDog
For me, if you are OK with a 2X then you can't beat Ultegra for the money. IMO, the reason to go GRX is for the 1X option. I prefer 1X for off road. I believe that at the 600 level the GRX quality starts getting good, I think the crank arms on the 600 are carbon (although I could be wrong). I have 2X Ultegra on my road bike and the front derailer creates problems and is just messy. However, for bike packing you may need the granny gear.
2x ultegra cut be beat for the money.
Your 2x ultegra road bike has shifting problems and is messy.

...not exactly an example that backs up your initial comment.

I have 11sp ultegra on a road bike and use an ultegra rx rd on my gravel bike so I'm not knocking 2x or ultegra here.
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Old 07-21-20, 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by RadDog
I think the crank arms on the 600 are carbon (although I could be wrong)
You are. https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/produ...-RX600-11.html

I was going to say, I don't think Shimano has ever sold a carbon crankset, but lo and behold there was a semi-carbon Dura-Ace FC-7800 back in the 10-sp days; though even that was a carbon wrap over an aluminum skeleton: https://www.bikeradar.com/news/shima...-ace-crankset/
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Old 07-21-20, 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Seattle Forrest
This is unrelated to the topic of the thread, but may be of interest to bike packers willing to spend on comfort.

https://zpacks.com/products/plexamid-tent

That's the lightest solo tent available with bug mesh etc. It's waterproof, roomy for one person, packs small, and comes in under a pound. PCT thru hikers attest to its quality and durability.
Gosh-darn, you!
Mrs. Base2 & myself have been looking into a better tent than the million pound Glacier from the big-box store.

$1135 dollars later we have the Duplex, 8 stakes, 2 poles & I have a bargain bin 10 degree long sleeping bag on the way.

If I get cold or wet I'm blaming YOU!

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Old 07-24-20, 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by TimothyH
My opinion is that the deciding factor is going to be low vs high gearing.

Assuming only Shimano supported configurations, GRX is going to support a slightly lower gear which will help when hauling tents, food and sleeping bags on hilly or mountainous terrain.

Ultegra will be higher geared for go-fast rides. Climbing the really steep stuff up in the Blue Ridge or Cohutta Mountains will be difficult however.

Going beyond Shimano supported systems, there is no doubt that I'm slower with the 46/30 ultra compact cranks than I was with Ultegra 50/34 compact road cranks but there is now way I could haul camping gear on repeated 5000 foot days without the very low gears. In fact, I don't think GRX is really low enough for bikepacking in the mountains. My low gear is 30f/42r or about 19 inches and it is nice. GRX and Ultegra are in the mid and high 20 inch range.

Once you start hauling 35 lb gear up in them hills you will likely need a very low gear.


-Tim-
Would I be wrong to say that this fact is an argument for a 2X system? Cut me slack, I am new to this type of riding. Bike packing sound like a lot of fun.
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Old 07-27-20, 11:08 AM
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You will never see a carbon crank from Shimano. You are more likely to see a full titanium one. Shimano is about build quality and reliability vs bling.
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Old 12-11-20, 09:18 PM
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Hijacking this thread because I have a similar question, with a bit of a twist. The 2x GRX 810 that I ordered isn't going to be available until March. But the bike supplier said they could put Ultegra groupset on it with the grx rear cassette.

My only hesitation is the gear ratio. From what you can put together do you think I would still have an easy gear on the ultegra(with the different rear cassette) in case I am schleping gear up a mountain road? From time to time I will be doing bikepacking with gear. Overall I'll be riding 80% roads and 20% off road. Any thoughts will be well appreciated!
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Old 12-11-20, 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by MichaelTapp
Hijacking this thread because I have a similar question, with a bit of a twist. The 2x GRX 810 that I ordered isn't going to be available until March. But the bike supplier said they could put Ultegra groupset on it with the grx rear cassette.

My only hesitation is the gear ratio. From what you can put together do you think I would still have an easy gear on the ultegra(with the different rear cassette) in case I am schleping gear up a mountain road? From time to time I will be doing bikepacking with gear. Overall I'll be riding 80% roads and 20% off road. Any thoughts will be well appreciated!
https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/produ...-11-speed.html

There is a grx cassette? Bikes ive seen with grx use other group cassettes...at least what has stuck out.

I would spec the bike for 80% of riding instead of 20% of riding.
You could always use Ultegra shifters, FD, and the Ultegra RX RD, then use an alternative crank that gives you lower gearing than the Ultegra's 34. Add whatever cassette range you want then.
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