The best fender line awards!
03-25-21, 01:02 PM
#51
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This has so much going on. Its not what I would ride, but its super cool to look at that I really like it.
- bright red paint.
- 1x classic style crank with gold chain and Microshift Advent super wide range derailleur and cassette.
- heavily logoed wheels with bladed spokes.
- wooden mini fender.
So much happening! Really neat to look at.
- bright red paint.
- 1x classic style crank with gold chain and Microshift Advent super wide range derailleur and cassette.
- heavily logoed wheels with bladed spokes.
- wooden mini fender.
So much happening! Really neat to look at.
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03-25-21, 04:06 PM
#53
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03-25-21, 04:17 PM
#54
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this was a one afternoon windy spray paint job with the frame hanging from a tall metal sheppard's crook in the yard with the outside temps only in the 50's with 15- 20 knot gusts with calm pockets of air now and then. i did coats in between wind gusts... 2 coats total and no clearcoat. no runs and nice and shiny. i got lucky!
03-25-21, 04:31 PM
#55
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My meager contribution.
Bought both the tires and fenders from the same CL seller, then just slapped them on the bike and called it good.
Bought both the tires and fenders from the same CL seller, then just slapped them on the bike and called it good.
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03-25-21, 04:34 PM
#56
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Now why did someone go and post this? Must be a picky bunch, and now I will have to get to work on my one bike with fenders. Gorgeous pics and bikes! Wow to all.
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03-25-21, 08:45 PM
#57
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In all of the above, the bridges in the rear triangle are in an optimal position, equidistant from the hub. Here's one that's unmodified, the brake bridge limits the position of the fender. Fork crown does the same in the front. A half round file taken to the leading edge can help.
Raleigh Gran(d) Sport(s) That brake bridge bugs me, to be fixed when I have time.
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1987 Mercian Pro, 1985 Shogun 500, 197? Falcon San Remo, 1972 Peugeot PX-10, 1972 Schwinn Paramount P13-9, 1971 Peugeot PX-10, 1971 Raleigh International, 1970 Raleigh Professional Mark I
Curator/Team Mechanic: 2016 Dawes Streetfighter, 1984 Lotus Eclair, 1975 Motobecane Jubile Mixte, 1974 Raleigh Sports, 1973 Free Spirit Ted Williams, 1972 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Philips Sport
1987 Mercian Pro, 1985 Shogun 500, 197? Falcon San Remo, 1972 Peugeot PX-10, 1972 Schwinn Paramount P13-9, 1971 Peugeot PX-10, 1971 Raleigh International, 1970 Raleigh Professional Mark I
Curator/Team Mechanic: 2016 Dawes Streetfighter, 1984 Lotus Eclair, 1975 Motobecane Jubile Mixte, 1974 Raleigh Sports, 1973 Free Spirit Ted Williams, 1972 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Philips Sport
03-25-21, 09:14 PM
#58
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gugie, please say more more about the filing?
Wheels, and therefore fenders don't intercept the fork crown at a tangent. Vertical front fender clearance at the fork crown is limited by the leading edge. Here I've drawn two lines, one parallel with the fork crown, the other tangent with the wheel/fender:
As you can see, the clearance of the fender to the front wheel is limited by the leading edge of the bottom of the fork crown.
With most 650b conversions on vintage frames with long legs, this typically isn't an issue. With 700c wheels on "sportier" frames, this can be. I first did this on @Dfrost's Miyata to give a few more mm of clearance, it's been in my bag of tricks ever since.
I start with a small triangular file to notch the front, then use progressively larger diameters until I get up to a quarter round file. I would leave enough material so that the brake hole isn't compromised. 2-3mm can make a big difference on your fenderline.
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If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
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03-26-21, 07:15 AM
#59
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03-26-21, 07:17 AM
#60
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03-26-21, 08:08 AM
#61
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I always struggle with getting clean fender lines. You guys make it look so easy
Oof! by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr
Oof! by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr
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03-26-21, 08:42 AM
#62
Full Member
I humbly request a re-submittal.
I remembered that when doing some work on this bike a few weeks ago I spent a decent amount of time reworking the fenders to refine the fit a little bit more.
Also, can anyone spot the little change I made to tweak the riding experience a bit? Hint: It's not the saddle, RD, brake levers, or handlebar tape
(although I do love all of those!)
I remembered that when doing some work on this bike a few weeks ago I spent a decent amount of time reworking the fenders to refine the fit a little bit more.
Also, can anyone spot the little change I made to tweak the riding experience a bit? Hint: It's not the saddle, RD, brake levers, or handlebar tape
(although I do love all of those!)Also, never thought bottle cages could be sexy but..which ones are those?
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03-26-21, 09:10 AM
#63
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Beautiful ride. Which front rack is that and how do you have those arms attached? I'm looking to put a Velo-Orange rack on a bike I'm building - I found one used at a good price but it's the non-canti verion and this bike has canti-brakes. Trying to figure out if I can make it work before I drive to go pick it up.
Also, never thought bottle cages could be sexy but..which ones are those?
Also, never thought bottle cages could be sexy but..which ones are those?
The rack is from Nitto, made specially for a now-closed bike shop called The Granary. It attaches through the fork crown as well as to the cantilever posts just like the Nitto M-12 or Velo Orange Randonneur Canti rack. Great, solid connection and fairly simple to install. I've owned several of the Velo Orange front racks and the tubing can be easily tweaked to the little adjustments you might need to fit your particular bike. Just don't try and go too far, it is tubing so it will crease
If you have cantilever posts, I would recommend picking up a rack that mounts to them for sure. What bike is it?
Bottle cages are Velo Orange "Moderniste" stainless.
03-26-21, 09:28 AM
#64
Full Member
Thanks so much
The rack is from Nitto, made specially for a now-closed bike shop called The Granary. It attaches through the fork crown as well as to the cantilever posts just like the Nitto M-12 or Velo Orange Randonneur Canti rack. Great, solid connection and fairly simple to install. I've owned several of the Velo Orange front racks and the tubing can be easily tweaked to the little adjustments you might need to fit your particular bike. Just don't try and go too far, it is tubing so it will crease
If you have cantilever posts, I would recommend picking up a rack that mounts to them for sure. What bike is it?
Bottle cages are Velo Orange "Moderniste" stainless.
The rack is from Nitto, made specially for a now-closed bike shop called The Granary. It attaches through the fork crown as well as to the cantilever posts just like the Nitto M-12 or Velo Orange Randonneur Canti rack. Great, solid connection and fairly simple to install. I've owned several of the Velo Orange front racks and the tubing can be easily tweaked to the little adjustments you might need to fit your particular bike. Just don't try and go too far, it is tubing so it will crease
If you have cantilever posts, I would recommend picking up a rack that mounts to them for sure. What bike is it?
Bottle cages are Velo Orange "Moderniste" stainless.
03-26-21, 09:44 AM
#65
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The bike is an 80s Peugeot ladies mountain bike, building it for the wife. Almost impossible to find a frame her size that she's comfortable with. Trying to turn it into a touring bike. I bought a lot of components from VO but unfortunately their racks are all sold out. Might look around a bit more. If the tubing on the regular rack would reach I was going to try and mount it right to the fork with some p-clamps but I'd rather do it the right way. thanks for the info.
You can always ask around in the ISO & For Trade sticky thread, too.
Oh, and to keep things on topic, you should totally put fenders on it and post pictures in here
03-26-21, 09:47 AM
#66
Full Member
Gotcha. I have maybe a bit of an irrational dislike of P-clamps for rack mounting so I'd either try and hold out for a cantilever version or perhaps go with their "Constructeur" front rack that bolts on to fender/rack eyelets at the fork dropouts. Looks like those are somewhat available but it might interfere with another rack if you wanted to run low-rider panniers on the front.
You can always ask around in the ISO & For Trade sticky thread, too.
Oh, and to keep things on topic, you should totally put fenders on it and post pictures in here
You can always ask around in the ISO & For Trade sticky thread, too.
Oh, and to keep things on topic, you should totally put fenders on it and post pictures in here
03-26-21, 10:01 AM
#67
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To get things bang-on you might need to do some localized re-radiusing, there's a great blog post about that here.
03-26-21, 11:20 AM
#68
Senior Member
Sure thing, and this is something you can do to improve a fenderline on your own.
Wheels, and therefore fenders don't intercept the fork crown at a tangent. Vertical front fender clearance at the fork crown is limited by the leading edge. Here I've drawn two lines, one parallel with the fork crown, the other tangent with the wheel/fender:
As you can see, the clearance of the fender to the front wheel is limited by the leading edge of the bottom of the fork crown.
With most 650b conversions on vintage frames with long legs, this typically isn't an issue. With 700c wheels on "sportier" frames, this can be. I first did this on @Dfrost's Miyata to give a few more mm of clearance, it's been in my bag of tricks ever since.
I start with a small triangular file to notch the front, then use progressively larger diameters until I get up to a quarter round file. I would leave enough material so that the brake hole isn't compromised. 2-3mm can make a big difference on your fenderline.
Wheels, and therefore fenders don't intercept the fork crown at a tangent. Vertical front fender clearance at the fork crown is limited by the leading edge. Here I've drawn two lines, one parallel with the fork crown, the other tangent with the wheel/fender:
As you can see, the clearance of the fender to the front wheel is limited by the leading edge of the bottom of the fork crown.
With most 650b conversions on vintage frames with long legs, this typically isn't an issue. With 700c wheels on "sportier" frames, this can be. I first did this on @Dfrost's Miyata to give a few more mm of clearance, it's been in my bag of tricks ever since.
I start with a small triangular file to notch the front, then use progressively larger diameters until I get up to a quarter round file. I would leave enough material so that the brake hole isn't compromised. 2-3mm can make a big difference on your fenderline.
The end product:
And you know when you've dimpled it to the right angle when you fasten the fender at the fork crown and don't fasten it to the stays. It should hang in proper alignment from just the daruma bolt. Notice in this photo the stays are not bolted to the dropout eyelets:
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03-26-21, 11:29 AM
#69
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03-26-21, 11:32 AM
#70
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Perhaps we can call it the Tutter-Guglielmana Effect. Publish a paper with lots of math that no one understands.
__________________
If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
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03-26-21, 02:56 PM
#71
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Yup, took up a stick while riding on some trails where road bikes were probably not meant to be. I actually bent it back and used it for another year until if failed at the bending crease.
03-26-21, 06:39 PM
#72
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Originally Posted by gugie;[url=tel:21985486
21985486[/url]]Sure thing, and this is something you can do to improve a fenderline on your own.
Wheels, and therefore fenders don't intercept the fork crown at a tangent. Vertical front fender clearance at the fork crown is limited by the leading edge. Here I've drawn two lines, one parallel with the fork crown, the other tangent with the wheel/fender:
As you can see, the clearance of the fender to the front wheel is limited by the leading edge of the bottom of the fork crown.
With most 650b conversions on vintage frames with long legs, this typically isn't an issue. With 700c wheels on "sportier" frames, this can be. I first did this on @Dfrost's Miyata to give a few more mm of clearance, it's been in my bag of tricks ever since.
I start with a small triangular file to notch the front, then use progressively larger diameters until I get up to a quarter round file. I would leave enough material so that the brake hole isn't compromised. 2-3mm can make a big difference on your fenderline.
Wheels, and therefore fenders don't intercept the fork crown at a tangent. Vertical front fender clearance at the fork crown is limited by the leading edge. Here I've drawn two lines, one parallel with the fork crown, the other tangent with the wheel/fender:
As you can see, the clearance of the fender to the front wheel is limited by the leading edge of the bottom of the fork crown.
With most 650b conversions on vintage frames with long legs, this typically isn't an issue. With 700c wheels on "sportier" frames, this can be. I first did this on @Dfrost's Miyata to give a few more mm of clearance, it's been in my bag of tricks ever since.
I start with a small triangular file to notch the front, then use progressively larger diameters until I get up to a quarter round file. I would leave enough material so that the brake hole isn't compromised. 2-3mm can make a big difference on your fenderline.
__________________
1987 Mercian Pro, 1985 Shogun 500, 197? Falcon San Remo, 1972 Peugeot PX-10, 1972 Schwinn Paramount P13-9, 1971 Peugeot PX-10, 1971 Raleigh International, 1970 Raleigh Professional Mark I
Curator/Team Mechanic: 2016 Dawes Streetfighter, 1984 Lotus Eclair, 1975 Motobecane Jubile Mixte, 1974 Raleigh Sports, 1973 Free Spirit Ted Williams, 1972 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Philips Sport
1987 Mercian Pro, 1985 Shogun 500, 197? Falcon San Remo, 1972 Peugeot PX-10, 1972 Schwinn Paramount P13-9, 1971 Peugeot PX-10, 1971 Raleigh International, 1970 Raleigh Professional Mark I
Curator/Team Mechanic: 2016 Dawes Streetfighter, 1984 Lotus Eclair, 1975 Motobecane Jubile Mixte, 1974 Raleigh Sports, 1973 Free Spirit Ted Williams, 1972 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Philips Sport
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03-26-21, 06:40 PM
#73
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Originally Posted by southpawboston;[url=tel:21986191
21986191[/url]]An alternative to filing the front edge of the fork crown to gain a little more clearance under the crown is to dimple the fender where it meets the front of the crown so that the front of the crown won't push down on the fender. You can do this with a simple homemade press made from M5 or M6 threaded rod, a bunch of fender washers, and some M5/M6 nuts. Fasten the press to the daruma bolt hole in the fender, tighten it up so that the fender washers flatten out the fender, and push forward to make that dimple parallel with the crown. Concept illustrated here:
The end product:
And you know when you've dimpled it to the right angle when you fasten the fender at the fork crown and don't fasten it to the stays. It should hang in proper alignment from just the daruma bolt. Notice in this photo the stays are not bolted to the dropout eyelets:
The end product:
And you know when you've dimpled it to the right angle when you fasten the fender at the fork crown and don't fasten it to the stays. It should hang in proper alignment from just the daruma bolt. Notice in this photo the stays are not bolted to the dropout eyelets:
again!
__________________
1987 Mercian Pro, 1985 Shogun 500, 197? Falcon San Remo, 1972 Peugeot PX-10, 1972 Schwinn Paramount P13-9, 1971 Peugeot PX-10, 1971 Raleigh International, 1970 Raleigh Professional Mark I
Curator/Team Mechanic: 2016 Dawes Streetfighter, 1984 Lotus Eclair, 1975 Motobecane Jubile Mixte, 1974 Raleigh Sports, 1973 Free Spirit Ted Williams, 1972 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Philips Sport
1987 Mercian Pro, 1985 Shogun 500, 197? Falcon San Remo, 1972 Peugeot PX-10, 1972 Schwinn Paramount P13-9, 1971 Peugeot PX-10, 1971 Raleigh International, 1970 Raleigh Professional Mark I
Curator/Team Mechanic: 2016 Dawes Streetfighter, 1984 Lotus Eclair, 1975 Motobecane Jubile Mixte, 1974 Raleigh Sports, 1973 Free Spirit Ted Williams, 1972 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Philips Sport
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