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Old Specialized FutureShock suspension fork questions

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Old Specialized FutureShock suspension fork questions

Old 10-31-10, 04:50 PM
  #26  
curttard
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Now there's an interesting idea. That is indeed what the valve looks like. A small black cylinder with a tapered head. I'm on a mission!
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Old 10-31-10, 05:58 PM
  #27  
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One problem would be that, as with the original valve, pushing the needle in would tend to push the piece down and out of the air cap entirely, so that it falls into the leg. Could I use a marine sealing glue (Aqua Seal etc) to glue it in place? Or would that end up having a weird reaction with the oil?

edit: I guess the oil doesn't really get up that high due to the air pressure, in theory?
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Old 10-31-10, 08:15 PM
  #28  
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We'll, sealant designed to seal an outdrive would probably be resistant to engine/differential oil. In use, oil will spash on to the underside of the valve. Never tried it myself, so I don't know for sure.
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Old 11-24-10, 12:34 AM
  #29  
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Ended up doing a variant of what Ron M. did on mtbr forum. Got rid of valve entirely, enlarged hole in aircap, put a presta valve through with a presta nut on each side holding it in place. JB Weld holding top nut to top of aircap and to make it airtight (Ron just used o-rings, washers, and the presta nuts, but I couldn't get that airtight).

Been riding for a week now with no problems.
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Old 11-24-10, 12:59 AM
  #30  
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These are not too hard to take apart. I got a similar (even older) bike for garage sale price, and had bad shocks too.

I ended up completely disassembling them, cleaning thoroughly etc.

There is a line I think to indicate shock oil level when refilling.

I ended up not being able to replace the sport pump rubber things that the needle goes through, so I took a couple of tire filler valves from auto tubeless tires, and after enlarging the holes in the tops, pushing them through from inside, and now I have shrader valves to fill up the air.

It's a destructive hack as you have to drill out the tops to a larger whole, but it worked for me.

I don't have pics of the work, but I could grab one of the finished result.
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Old 11-27-10, 06:07 PM
  #31  
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Replacing the black valve piece with a standard air valve is a great idea. Would make for an easier time setting the air pressure preload.

I just finished up rebuilding mine on my Rockhopper. What I found best was to use a small drop of superglue or RTV sillicone sealant on the inner neck of the black valve to hold it in place while inserting the air needle to pump it up. Otherwise, the black valve would tend to push back into the shock. Once it had some pressure behind the valve, though, a lubed needle went in with no probs.
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Old 12-17-10, 02:01 PM
  #32  
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Well the stock little black plastic valves took a crap on me, so I decided to work some magic...





Turned out really well. I've got enough pics for a writeup, if anyone is interested.
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Old 12-17-10, 02:12 PM
  #33  
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Haha they kind of look like weapons. I can't think of a reason you'd fall on your fork crown, but they look terrifying anyway.
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Old 12-19-10, 09:53 PM
  #34  
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Just a heads up, I owned a Specialized FS, (purchased in '92) and when I went to get it overhauled sometime in '94 at the LBS, they took it from me, and said I couldn't have it back...! (I was dumbfounded).
They said it was under a do not use by the CPSC...anyways, the results of that story ended rather good for me after I pressured them (new fork etc), but you should be aware of the recall nonetheless.
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Old 12-20-10, 09:31 AM
  #35  
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Reading through that link, it said the fork stanchions did not go all the way through the crown. Huh.
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Old 09-16-12, 02:54 PM
  #36  
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Just want to says thanks for the info- this thread got my Paleolithic Rockhopper (1991?) shocks back in action
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Old 03-14-15, 07:29 PM
  #37  
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I also wanted to say that this thread has been a huge help. I also have this fork and was able to resurrect it with all this information. I basically cleaned, added new fluid, and cleaned the air cap. The rubber seal would not stay on one, so I ended up super gluing it in. After that it held air very well. The other one was leaking, so I super glued it in as well. That seems to be the key, but I'm not sure how long it will hold. The fork was in good shape, just had not been used in a long time. Thanks for all on this thread. My vintage 94 Specialized Rockhopper Comp FS is now ready to ride.
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Old 03-15-15, 04:31 PM
  #38  
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We finally had a nice day with no rain and I put my rebuilt shocks to the test. I took a ride on some pretty harsh terrain and they held up very well. Going over some large rocks and roots, I was sure they would deflate, but they never did. I know they only have about 60mm of travel, but I felt a huge difference. If they continue to perform, I can hold off on buying a modern fork. Saves me the v-brake conversion as well.
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Old 06-16-18, 03:19 PM
  #39  
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Future Shock: the Ressurection

Does anybody remember the proprietary air pump used to get these air shocks to the recommended pressure?

IIRC, the pressure was very low, like 30PSI. I think the gauge only went from zero to 40 or some low pressure.

I've been searching everywhere for this pump, and only seen a pic of it once about two years ago.........any memories of this thing?

The inflation was tricky and very, very touchy I remember, like 10PSI from mush to rock-hard.

TNX
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Old 06-28-18, 10:15 AM
  #40  
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I have one of those pumps - it has a "green area" around 40PSI - I can only assume that is the recommended zone.
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Old 06-28-18, 10:20 AM
  #41  
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I tried posting a photo of the air pump but it will not allow me.

I need help to figure out how to take the fork apart. The little rubber air stopper dried out and will not hold air. I would love to take it apart but have no clue where to start. It's probably from 1991 and looks identical to the above photos.
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Old 04-14-20, 07:21 PM
  #42  
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Oil in both forks?

Hey, looking to get my 1993 Rockhopper back in action. Does oil go in both shocks?
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