TA single crank conversion
10-28-14, 03:29 PM
#1
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TA single crank conversion
I want to single-ize my favorite crankset, my TA cyclotourist for a commuter build. It's a triple now. Am I going to run into any problems with this, or is it as simple as just slapping a single chainring on there? It'll be a 1x8 with a chainguard to keep the chain from falling off, so I'm not too concerned about chainline. I seem to recall @noglider did this with a TA with tiny crank arms, but I think that was an IGH setup.
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10-28-14, 03:35 PM
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Might as well fix the chainline while you have the crank off. Shouldn't be too hard to measure what you have and order a BB with the right length. 
10-28-14, 03:41 PM
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It's moving to a different frame anyway. Do I just shoot for the middle of the cassette?
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10-28-14, 03:43 PM
#4
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Outer minus the others will do . BB length is what you pick for the chain line.
maybe just move the outer to the inside of the right crank arm. rather than fitting it thru the chainring.
maybe just move the outer to the inside of the right crank arm. rather than fitting it thru the chainring.
Last edited by fietsbob; 10-28-14 at 03:46 PM.
10-28-14, 03:55 PM
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I want to single-ize my favorite crankset, my TA cyclotourist for a commuter build. It's a triple now. Am I going to run into any problems with this, or is it as simple as just slapping a single chainring on there? It'll be a 1x8 with a chainguard to keep the chain from falling off, so I'm not too concerned about chainline. I seem to recall @noglider did this with a TA with tiny crank arms, but I think that was an IGH setup.
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10-28-14, 04:58 PM
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I want to single-ize my favorite crankset, my TA cyclotourist for a commuter build. It's a triple now. Am I going to run into any problems with this, or is it as simple as just slapping a single chainring on there? It'll be a 1x8 with a chainguard to keep the chain from falling off, so I'm not too concerned about chainline. I seem to recall @noglider did this with a TA with tiny crank arms, but I think that was an IGH setup.
Additionally, after a bit of math, if I use the master ring on the front (53), I would need to use a completely silly rear freewheel that looks like a spoke guard. So, I am cutting off each of the six arms, radiusing the ends, and bolting the middle ring (44) only to what is remaining, like an external spider. I think this will look Klunkerish, without being obtrusive or silly, and have a good chainline
Alternatively, I think you or I could bolt a TA "copy", Ticinoi, on the the 5 bolt arm itself, available in a 42.
Although the Ticoni could arguably be a few mm outward on the chainline, but going from 44 to 42 might let you ride on 16 instead of 18 in the rear, curing itself.
10-28-14, 05:31 PM
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10-28-14, 05:42 PM
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Noglider's not the only one 
Works a charm, and you can mount the ring on the inside or outside of the crank arm, helping out with chainline and chainguard clearance issues. Another trick you can do, if you're real close and don't want to pony up for a new, longer spindle, is add a spacer or two between the fixed cup and the bottom bracket. That's what I ended up doing. Good enough for now, until I get a new, longer spindle.
Works a charm, and you can mount the ring on the inside or outside of the crank arm, helping out with chainline and chainguard clearance issues. Another trick you can do, if you're real close and don't want to pony up for a new, longer spindle, is add a spacer or two between the fixed cup and the bottom bracket. That's what I ended up doing. Good enough for now, until I get a new, longer spindle.
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10-28-14, 06:18 PM
#9
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Yes, lots of people have singlicized TA cranks. Here's mine. I did not change the BB, and the chain line is not perfect with the SA IGH, but it's close enough. The Q factor is still ridiculously low anyway, like 135mm.
You can find yourself a large outer ring (at least several teeth larger than your desired single ring, which would be the inner ring) and mill down the teeth, turning it into a chain guard. I've seen this done to TA cranks and it works very nicely!
You can find yourself a large outer ring (at least several teeth larger than your desired single ring, which would be the inner ring) and mill down the teeth, turning it into a chain guard. I've seen this done to TA cranks and it works very nicely!
10-28-14, 06:22 PM
#10
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Noglider's not the only one
Works a charm, and you can mount the ring on the inside or outside of the crank arm, helping out with chainline and chainguard clearance issues. Another trick you can do, if you're real close and don't want to pony up for a new, longer spindle, is add a spacer or two between the fixed cup and the bottom bracket. That's what I ended up doing. Good enough for now, until I get a new, longer spindle.
Works a charm, and you can mount the ring on the inside or outside of the crank arm, helping out with chainline and chainguard clearance issues. Another trick you can do, if you're real close and don't want to pony up for a new, longer spindle, is add a spacer or two between the fixed cup and the bottom bracket. That's what I ended up doing. Good enough for now, until I get a new, longer spindle.
10-28-14, 06:26 PM
#11
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I'm actually going with an 8 speed cassette with a rear derailleur. Considering the middle chainring position works pretty well now with the entire range of the freewheel as a triple, I'll probably take the above advice and mount an outer ring to the inside.
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10-28-14, 06:26 PM
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Or guy with Nervar, the poor man's TA:
10-28-14, 06:28 PM
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I am doing the same thing, for a vintage look Klunker (1946 Schwinn DX), and the TA cranks look perfect and "period correct", but I don't want a front derailleur.
Additionally, after a bit of math, if I use the master ring on the front (53), I would need to use a completely silly rear freewheel that looks like a spoke guard. So, I am cutting off each of the six arms, radiusing the ends, and bolting the middle ring (44) only to what is remaining, like an external spider. I think this will look Klunkerish, without being obtrusive or silly, and have a good chainline
Alternatively, I think you or I could bolt a TA "copy", Ticinoi, on the the 5 bolt arm itself, available in a 42.
Although the Ticoni could arguably be a few mm outward on the chainline, but going from 44 to 42 might let you ride on 16 instead of 18 in the rear, curing itself.
Additionally, after a bit of math, if I use the master ring on the front (53), I would need to use a completely silly rear freewheel that looks like a spoke guard. So, I am cutting off each of the six arms, radiusing the ends, and bolting the middle ring (44) only to what is remaining, like an external spider. I think this will look Klunkerish, without being obtrusive or silly, and have a good chainline
Alternatively, I think you or I could bolt a TA "copy", Ticinoi, on the the 5 bolt arm itself, available in a 42.
Although the Ticoni could arguably be a few mm outward on the chainline, but going from 44 to 42 might let you ride on 16 instead of 18 in the rear, curing itself.
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Last edited by icepick_trotsky; 10-28-14 at 07:33 PM.
10-28-14, 06:36 PM
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10-28-14, 07:38 PM
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● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
10-28-14, 07:50 PM
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10-28-14, 09:30 PM
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Hey, I own that bike now, don't i?
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10-28-14, 09:34 PM
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1 X 2 IGH with a bash ring.
10-29-14, 06:39 AM
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No one cares
anther single TA chainring user here. Sorry for the crappy pic, not to mention the lose chain
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10-29-14, 06:59 AM
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10-29-14, 10:45 AM
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Works a charm, and you can mount the ring on the inside or outside of the crank arm, helping out with chainline and chainguard clearance issues. Another trick you can do, if you're real close and don't want to pony up for a new, longer spindle, is add a spacer or two between the fixed cup and the bottom bracket. That's what I ended up doing. Good enough for now, until I get a new, longer spindle.
10-29-14, 10:59 AM
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10-29-14, 11:05 AM
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Hey @noglider and @southpawboston, what spindle length are you running on yours? I'm moving from a french-threaded frame to and english-threaded, so I'll have to replace the BB.
Also paging @rhm, @-holiday76, and @Lascauxcaveman, plus anyone else I've missed.
Also paging @rhm, @-holiday76, and @Lascauxcaveman, plus anyone else I've missed.
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10-29-14, 11:15 AM
#24
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Hey @noglider and @southpawboston, what spindle length are you running on yours? I'm moving from a french-threaded frame to and english-threaded, so I'll have to replace the BB.
Also paging @rhm, @-holiday76, and @Lascauxcaveman, plus anyone else I've missed.
Also paging @rhm, @-holiday76, and @Lascauxcaveman, plus anyone else I've missed.
10-29-14, 11:15 AM
#25
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I don't know. The Viscount is using the original Viscount BB, and I didn't measure it.
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“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
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