Does a Bridgestone 400 fit in here and what would you guys do with this bike?
12-10-19, 12:36 PM
#26
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looks like this form @Kobe is correct "If there are spacers on the rear wheel it is probably the original. All you need is a 6 speed freewheel, rear derailleur, shifter,rear brake, chain and cables to get it functional again." all of which should be easy to get if there is a local coop
I interpreted SE Wisc as Milwaukee (I need to get out for the friday fish frys)
so for fun here are some listing that are in size area just to compared
I interpreted SE Wisc as Milwaukee (I need to get out for the friday fish frys)
so for fun here are some listing that are in size area just to compared
Centurian Elite 12 Speed Road Bike - $160 (Menomonee falls)
https://milwaukee.craigslist.org/bik...001850011.htmlDiamondback Interval TG Road Bike - $190 (Menomonee falls)
https://milwaukee.craigslist.org/bik...001869416.html
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Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)
Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)
12-10-19, 12:55 PM
#27
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The rear triangle spacing / OLD will most likely be 126mm. A 26" MTB wheel will be either 130 or 135mm, so you'll have to either cold set the frame, or force it every time you install/remove the wheel. And as said, fitting a brake will be nigh impossible. It's unlikely you'll find a 26" wheel that will accomodate both a multi-speed freewheel and a coaster brake; to my knowledge, no such animal exists. The IGH / coaster brake option as suggested by the LBS would be very $$$''y. End of the day, if you're really enamored of the idea of making this frame the base for your all-around-er, you're in for wallet-thinning exercise. Bang for the buck, you're better off with an old MTB as your starting point, as suggested above. As a bonus, the geometry will most likely give you less risk of front wheel toe strike as you reported.
If you're looking to ride ALL winter, your big challenge is not just snow, but ice. For that, you'll want studded tires. Once again, that most likely rules out this frame as your mule.
That said, this bike could still be built up nicely as the 12-speed roadie it once was, probably on the somewhat cheap, using parts from a local co-op / kitchen.
So are you closer to Milwaukee, or to Rac-osha?
If you're looking to ride ALL winter, your big challenge is not just snow, but ice. For that, you'll want studded tires. Once again, that most likely rules out this frame as your mule.
That said, this bike could still be built up nicely as the 12-speed roadie it once was, probably on the somewhat cheap, using parts from a local co-op / kitchen.
So are you closer to Milwaukee, or to Rac-osha?
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12-10-19, 01:00 PM
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That's an option.
I've gotten to the point that none of the bikes we have are ideal for what I want. So I guess I've been riding long enough that I know where I'd like to improve my rides. LOL. My bike is comfy and fun to ride, but not all that well suited for hills and weather cuz of the gearing. My wifes works well for all around stuff but it's heavy, I totally dislike the seat and she likes it and it's got that annoying sound that's driving me bonkers when I ride it. LOL. My Son's geometry is a little tight, but not too bad. But when I bought the tires for it, I wasn't thinking about winter and bought more street like tires. And even on the normal, dry pavement, they don't really feel all that planted so I'm hesitant on taking that one in the snow. My daughters bike is my second favorite riding bike and would be a good option but her bars are flat and I really don't like how far forward you have to ride it. And she likes it set up the way it is. I tried getting her grips off and putting on a more upright set of bars for the winter but they're on there so good I feel like I'd have to cut them off. But she told me she likes the way they feel so I don't want to do anything I can't undo in the spring for her. I have a similar issue with my son's bike. I would like to put more upright bars on it but the brake levers have stymied me on how to get them off. I've been told how to do it but I feel like I'd be rewiring all the brakes if I end up trying to mess with it and I've been hesitant. Plus his just feels a bit odd to me.
So, yeah, I'm being picky. I would like to set up a bike for myeslf that ticks all my boxes and it's possible this one MIGHT fit that bill. But yes, I'd be putting more upright bars on it too.
So I think my requirements are: Gears for hills and weather. Even if just a few... Either that or lower gearing than my current ride. Tires that will handle snow when needed. And a position that is comfy enough for me. And I guess brakes that work in the weather. Although I'm not opposed to learning how to stick my foot on the rear tires. That's how a lot of BMX dudes do it. I tried that a few times on my cruiser and it's not that bad. It does seem like it would wear the soles of your shoes out fast if you did it much though. LOL. Would probably be kind of a dangerous thing to do in wet weather though... Maybe.
I think this bike could possibly fit my requirements with some tweaking though.
I've gotten to the point that none of the bikes we have are ideal for what I want. So I guess I've been riding long enough that I know where I'd like to improve my rides. LOL. My bike is comfy and fun to ride, but not all that well suited for hills and weather cuz of the gearing. My wifes works well for all around stuff but it's heavy, I totally dislike the seat and she likes it and it's got that annoying sound that's driving me bonkers when I ride it. LOL. My Son's geometry is a little tight, but not too bad. But when I bought the tires for it, I wasn't thinking about winter and bought more street like tires. And even on the normal, dry pavement, they don't really feel all that planted so I'm hesitant on taking that one in the snow. My daughters bike is my second favorite riding bike and would be a good option but her bars are flat and I really don't like how far forward you have to ride it. And she likes it set up the way it is. I tried getting her grips off and putting on a more upright set of bars for the winter but they're on there so good I feel like I'd have to cut them off. But she told me she likes the way they feel so I don't want to do anything I can't undo in the spring for her. I have a similar issue with my son's bike. I would like to put more upright bars on it but the brake levers have stymied me on how to get them off. I've been told how to do it but I feel like I'd be rewiring all the brakes if I end up trying to mess with it and I've been hesitant. Plus his just feels a bit odd to me.
So, yeah, I'm being picky. I would like to set up a bike for myeslf that ticks all my boxes and it's possible this one MIGHT fit that bill. But yes, I'd be putting more upright bars on it too.
So I think my requirements are: Gears for hills and weather. Even if just a few... Either that or lower gearing than my current ride. Tires that will handle snow when needed. And a position that is comfy enough for me. And I guess brakes that work in the weather. Although I'm not opposed to learning how to stick my foot on the rear tires. That's how a lot of BMX dudes do it. I tried that a few times on my cruiser and it's not that bad. It does seem like it would wear the soles of your shoes out fast if you did it much though. LOL. Would probably be kind of a dangerous thing to do in wet weather though... Maybe.
I think this bike could possibly fit my requirements with some tweaking though.
and maybe a stem too or you could go Nitto Dirt drop. My philosophy is that uncomfortable bikes do not get ridden, so if it fits and you like how it feels then make it yours and tick those boxes.
12-10-19, 01:19 PM
#29
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I think he'll also need a long reach front brake. It looks to me like someone threw a short reach front caliper on there that doesn't reach the rims. Also, don't forget handlebar tape and plugs...small details I know.
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12-10-19, 02:00 PM
#30
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First of all, this was a pretty nice bike. Mid level bike shop bike, around $350-400 IIRC circa the early 80s. I remember selling them. That means in current USD it was around $900-1000 new. Low end? Not really, only compared to fancy racing bikes. My point is you're not wasting money if you spend a little to fix it up.
It's hard to tell from the picture, but that looks like the original Bridgestone 'self centering' brake. The short reach version of these is quite short, like 37-47. So yeah, could be an issue if going to 700c wheels. I can't recall if they made a mid reach version.
I don't think the rear wheel on these is original. This would have come with front and rear QR wheels. If the spokes are popping and two are missing, I'd suggest looking for a new wheelset. New Wheelmaster (etc) only cost $100 pair or so, or scrounge some used wheels at a coop etc. Going to 700c (slightly smaller) will give you more room for fatter tires, but you will likely need new brakes front and rear. Since there's no rear brake as is, not too wasteful. Or keep it 27 1/4". Tires are less common these days, but you'd only need one brake more.
WRT to the mechanic building up a new wheel with a coaster brake and internal gears -- sure why not? As a practical rider, that makes a certain amount of sense. The wheel is toast anyway. It's not restore to original, which is what most people here would probably do, but it's OK. A 3 or 5 speed coaster brake hub is very practical for a commuter type bike. Plus obviously you wouldn't need derailleurs, a freewheel, and another rim brake and caliper. Please don't saw off the derailleur hanger though. If left alone the bike can always be made back into a 12 speed at some later time.
It's hard to tell from the picture, but that looks like the original Bridgestone 'self centering' brake. The short reach version of these is quite short, like 37-47. So yeah, could be an issue if going to 700c wheels. I can't recall if they made a mid reach version.
I don't think the rear wheel on these is original. This would have come with front and rear QR wheels. If the spokes are popping and two are missing, I'd suggest looking for a new wheelset. New Wheelmaster (etc) only cost $100 pair or so, or scrounge some used wheels at a coop etc. Going to 700c (slightly smaller) will give you more room for fatter tires, but you will likely need new brakes front and rear. Since there's no rear brake as is, not too wasteful. Or keep it 27 1/4". Tires are less common these days, but you'd only need one brake more.
WRT to the mechanic building up a new wheel with a coaster brake and internal gears -- sure why not? As a practical rider, that makes a certain amount of sense. The wheel is toast anyway. It's not restore to original, which is what most people here would probably do, but it's OK. A 3 or 5 speed coaster brake hub is very practical for a commuter type bike. Plus obviously you wouldn't need derailleurs, a freewheel, and another rim brake and caliper. Please don't saw off the derailleur hanger though. If left alone the bike can always be made back into a 12 speed at some later time.
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12-10-19, 03:20 PM
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Madpogue, I'm in Caledonia right off the lake. So Northern Racine.
Thanks for the tips Salamandrine. I sort of appreciate it more now. And I think I'll get a quote from that guy about building an internal gear coaster brake rear wheel. I was thinking the same thing as you about that. I wonder if he could reuse the rim. I'm assuming yes to that.
And yeah, it doesn't have a quick throw on the rear so maybe it's not the stock rim. Good spot, whoever that was.
I'm not sure about the brakes. I think it's possible it was just the angle of the pic cuz it looks like it's fine to me. But I could be wrong.
I'm probably not going to spring for studded tires. It's my first winter riding and after it's done I may agree and gear up that way next year. So far I've not felt like I NEEDED them but I may change my mind come Jan/Feb/March. But the budget is already super tight. Especially at Christmas. We'll see how the tax returns and bonus goes at the beginning of the year.
I went for a ride around the block today and I really like the feel of the geometry and such. I think the frame might be a good size for me. I'm like 5'7"+ a tad. I didn't have the tires pumped as high as they should so it felt a little harder on the legs than it should. But it was just a test. Those small tires are supposed to be at like 100 pounds eh? It was
Thanks for the tips Salamandrine. I sort of appreciate it more now. And I think I'll get a quote from that guy about building an internal gear coaster brake rear wheel. I was thinking the same thing as you about that. I wonder if he could reuse the rim. I'm assuming yes to that.
And yeah, it doesn't have a quick throw on the rear so maybe it's not the stock rim. Good spot, whoever that was.
I'm not sure about the brakes. I think it's possible it was just the angle of the pic cuz it looks like it's fine to me. But I could be wrong.
I'm probably not going to spring for studded tires. It's my first winter riding and after it's done I may agree and gear up that way next year. So far I've not felt like I NEEDED them but I may change my mind come Jan/Feb/March. But the budget is already super tight. Especially at Christmas. We'll see how the tax returns and bonus goes at the beginning of the year.
I went for a ride around the block today and I really like the feel of the geometry and such. I think the frame might be a good size for me. I'm like 5'7"+ a tad. I didn't have the tires pumped as high as they should so it felt a little harder on the legs than it should. But it was just a test. Those small tires are supposed to be at like 100 pounds eh? It was
12-10-19, 03:38 PM
#32
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If the front brake is original, it will reach a 700c rim. It does need a rear brake, there are lots of options. My gearing is 46-36 28 front and 14-30 tooth rear cog. The crank is probably drilled for a 74mm bcd granny. I have no problem with finding old parts because I don't throw them out.
12-10-19, 05:43 PM
#34
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It looks like you have 4mm to drop the brake, which will reach a 700c rim.
12-10-19, 07:59 PM
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My red 400 in post #4 originally came with 27” rims and the Bridgestone self-centering calipers. It is pictured with 700c rims and the original calipers. You’ll see the pad is adjusted to the end of its travel but fully contacts the rim just fine. The original quick release levers are a nifty design and strongly recommended to use with the calipers for quick release functionality.
12-11-19, 11:01 AM
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Yeah both this bike and my Son's 90's Schwinn MTB have the quick release but both just on the front.
12-14-19, 03:05 PM
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Looks like I just need to unscrew the gear???? And then replace with a cassette? I think?
12-14-19, 03:22 PM
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12-14-19, 11:05 PM
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That would take a freewheel, not a cassette. That sprocket should have had a lock ring on it.
12-15-19, 12:13 AM
#40
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As for winter tires, these look like a proper design: https://www.amazon.com/Continental-C...217&th=1&psc=1
I know, budget is limited but they come in 700c which as others have stated would be your best choice for that bike. Then all you need is a freewheel for the back and a rear brake which shouldn't be expensive at all.
My experience with snow tires is the best designs have smaller spaces between the lugs unlike a mud tire. Many people seem to think that you want the tread to shed the snow in the same way that you want a tire used in mud to do. In actual fact if the snow packs itself in the spaces it creates more traction by gripping the snow on the ground. A good snow tire should also have a softer compound as it is obviously used in lower temps than a summer tire. In hard icy conditions, studs are your friend...
Best of luck with it that's a nice frame to build up your preferred setup on!
I know, budget is limited but they come in 700c which as others have stated would be your best choice for that bike. Then all you need is a freewheel for the back and a rear brake which shouldn't be expensive at all.
My experience with snow tires is the best designs have smaller spaces between the lugs unlike a mud tire. Many people seem to think that you want the tread to shed the snow in the same way that you want a tire used in mud to do. In actual fact if the snow packs itself in the spaces it creates more traction by gripping the snow on the ground. A good snow tire should also have a softer compound as it is obviously used in lower temps than a summer tire. In hard icy conditions, studs are your friend...
Best of luck with it that's a nice frame to build up your preferred setup on!
12-20-19, 12:36 PM
#41
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It's funny. I suggested that very same theory in another thread and got my head bit off by someone and said I was completely wrong. LOL. I had been shopping for car tires and that's what they said. They snow is supposed to pack in there and give more traction. Apparently that's how car tires are designed at least...... But of course shed water away. Or let it flow out.
Anyways.... I got my fixed gear off and totally took the rim apart to clean up. Now I gotta decide what to do. Someone told me you can get cheap derailleurs at a store for like 7 bucks and I'm in disbelief but haven't had the time to shop yet. And then I need two spokes, tires, and some gears. But what do you call the bunch of gears on rear rim if it's a freewheel? Freeewheel gear set?
I'm not sure if I should take the cranks apart and regrease or not. They feel really smooth but who knows how long it's been untouched. It will probably bug me if I don't. LOL.
Anyways.... I got my fixed gear off and totally took the rim apart to clean up. Now I gotta decide what to do. Someone told me you can get cheap derailleurs at a store for like 7 bucks and I'm in disbelief but haven't had the time to shop yet. And then I need two spokes, tires, and some gears. But what do you call the bunch of gears on rear rim if it's a freewheel? Freeewheel gear set?
I'm not sure if I should take the cranks apart and regrease or not. They feel really smooth but who knows how long it's been untouched. It will probably bug me if I don't. LOL.
12-20-19, 12:38 PM
#42
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I did see some Kenda tires on amazon that I think I'm going to buy for it. Kenda K103's. They have like cruiser ish tread. Small flat topped nubbies. And they're cheap.
12-24-19, 10:08 AM
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So I was at the Trek store yesterday and bought a freewheel cartridge with 6 gears, a derailleur, a shifter and new chain. Now I need tires and 2 spokes.....
I probably could've saved money by buying a donor bike, but I'm getting to where I don't have room for another bike. Plus if you buy a facebook bike for cheap, there's no garrauntee that stuff will actually work and not sure if I'd get a freewheel cartridge out of it. I paid 50 bucks for that stuff, which seemed not to bad for what I got.
I think if I do it up for 100 or less it will be a good investment cuz I can see riding that bike a lot.
Although I'm finishing up my bmx build too and that one will get some time too.
But my main bike is a cheap cruiser and it's starting to make noises like it needs some servicing. So once I get this bike done I'll tear that one down. I've been kind of hard on it, doing bunny hops and such on it. It needs some TLC.
I probably could've saved money by buying a donor bike, but I'm getting to where I don't have room for another bike. Plus if you buy a facebook bike for cheap, there's no garrauntee that stuff will actually work and not sure if I'd get a freewheel cartridge out of it. I paid 50 bucks for that stuff, which seemed not to bad for what I got.
I think if I do it up for 100 or less it will be a good investment cuz I can see riding that bike a lot.
Although I'm finishing up my bmx build too and that one will get some time too.
But my main bike is a cheap cruiser and it's starting to make noises like it needs some servicing. So once I get this bike done I'll tear that one down. I've been kind of hard on it, doing bunny hops and such on it. It needs some TLC.
