Tips For FD Cable Tension Adjustment When No Barrel Adjuster
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Portland
Posts: 1,115
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 451 Post(s)
Liked 364 Times
in
227 Posts
Tips For FD Cable Tension Adjustment When No Barrel Adjuster
Greetings, Geniuses--
My FD cable just snapped at the bolt, for some reason. Internally routed and never replaced those before myself, but I am going to try to figure out how to replace it anyway, given all the LBS folks are inaccessible. Anyhow, for some odd reason, BMC did not put a front der barrel adjuster on this bike. Looking for any tricks any of you sage humans have about how to adjust that cable tension, other than just repeatedly unclamping/clamping at the bolt. This does not seem like a very scientific or clever way to go about it, but what do I know... Many thanks!!!
My FD cable just snapped at the bolt, for some reason. Internally routed and never replaced those before myself, but I am going to try to figure out how to replace it anyway, given all the LBS folks are inaccessible. Anyhow, for some odd reason, BMC did not put a front der barrel adjuster on this bike. Looking for any tricks any of you sage humans have about how to adjust that cable tension, other than just repeatedly unclamping/clamping at the bolt. This does not seem like a very scientific or clever way to go about it, but what do I know... Many thanks!!!
#2
Senior Member
One solution is to install an inline cable tension adjuster. Another solution is to deliberately turn the low limit screw in by a half turn or more, then pull the cable tight, tighten the clamp bolt, then return the limit screw to its proper position. This increases the cable tension. It may take multiple attempts to get the correct tension.
Likes For biker222:
#4
I am potato.
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 3,113
Bikes: Only precision built, custom high performance elitist machines of the highest caliber. 🍆
Mentioned: 29 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1788 Post(s)
Liked 1,627 Times
in
932 Posts
I find that about a full turn to a turn on the low limit screw is right. I also use pliers or wrap the extra cable around my hand to pull & hold tension on the cable while tightening the fixing bolt. With Ultegra 6800, at least, It seems to come out right. I shoot for just missing contact with the chain when the chain is in in small ring/big cog combination. Things will invariably settle with time under system tension. So if it is lightly touching the chain on small/big but not small/second big, that's ok. Give it a day or 2.
Don't forget to completly relax your shifter. It's super lame to think you're all good to go, only to realize you did everything in the "trim" position.
Don't forget to completly relax your shifter. It's super lame to think you're all good to go, only to realize you did everything in the "trim" position.
__________________
I shouldn't have to "make myself more visible;" Drivers should just stop running people over.
Car dependency is a tax.
I shouldn't have to "make myself more visible;" Drivers should just stop running people over.
Car dependency is a tax.
Likes For base2:
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 33,656
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2026 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,096 Times
in
742 Posts
This is the real answer. Otherwise you are going to have to do a series of trial-and-error adjustments and probably wind up settling for "close enough". The in-line adjuster makes accurate initial setting and later adjustments for minor cable "stretch" easy.
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Roswell, GA
Posts: 8,319
Bikes: '93 Trek 750, '92 Schwinn Crisscross, '93 Mongoose Alta
Mentioned: 30 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1438 Post(s)
Liked 1,092 Times
in
723 Posts
The adjuster also helps avoid chewing up the wire by clamping it repeatedly.
Likes For dsbrantjr:
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 3,691
Bikes: Too many bikes, too little time to ride
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 430 Post(s)
Liked 460 Times
in
318 Posts
Inline adjuster as mentioned is the way to go but I've also had success with using pliers to pull the cable tight before tightening the fixing bolt.
Likes For tFUnK:
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: SW Ohio
Posts: 2,397
Mentioned: 93 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1104 Post(s)
Liked 1,824 Times
in
878 Posts
The link below is what I used to adjust FD for a Ultegra 6800 FD:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-5jnNScKhRs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-5jnNScKhRs
Some shifting set ups don't have the ability to include a tension adjustment.
Last edited by nomadmax; 03-27-20 at 07:24 AM.
Likes For nomadmax:
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Northern CA
Posts: 743
Bikes: Cannondale tandems: '92 Road, '97 Mtn. Mongoose 10.9 Ti, Kelly Deluxe, Tommaso Chorus, Cdale MT2000, Schwinn Deluxe Cruiser, Torker Unicycle, among others.
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 279 Post(s)
Liked 207 Times
in
129 Posts
That's a good way ^. On bikes that don't have a cable tension adjustment for the FD I screw in the low limit until it touches the chain when it's on the innermost cog in back. Then I pull the cable tight, lock it down and back the low limit screw out until I have proper clearance between the inner FD cage and the chain (when on the inner most cog and small chain ring).
Some shifting set ups don't have the ability to include a tension adjustment.
Some shifting set ups don't have the ability to include a tension adjustment.