Stans conversion kit...is it needed?
04-19-16, 04:43 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Stans conversion kit...is it needed?
I have some Alex rims that are schrader tube compatible. I am thinking of going tubeless. I understand that Stans offers a conversion kit but it sounds pricey. Can someone tell me why you need this "rubber strip" that's in Stan's kit PLUS the tape? I don't understand why you cannot just tape, put on a tubeless tire, add sealant, and go? I have built 2 wheel sets for 2 different bikes both using Stan's rims so I am familiar with tubeless. I have never converted an existing set of rims before, though, so I am uneducated on why a standard rim needs more than just tape? My Alex rims have a similar style inner hook on the inside of the rim sidewall that the Stan's rims have for the tire to grip. So why can't you just add tape and go? What does this strip do?
Last edited by trail_monkey; 04-19-16 at 04:57 PM.
04-20-16, 06:31 AM
#2
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I thought I would include a couple pics of the inside of my rims. Yes my Stans rims have a little more of a flat ledge on the inside but other than that they look similar. Also the tires are a wire or kevlar bead. Can I safely use these tires tubeless or will I need to buy tubeless tires? I know these tires don't go on near as tight as my Maxis tires did when they went on my Stans rims. You needed a stick of dynamite to get those on lol.
04-20-16, 08:09 AM
#3
Senior Member
The purpose of the rubber strip is two fold, one to help seal things up, and two to help build up the rim bed for a better fit. It's not necessary though.
As far as tubeless tires, it depends a little on the application, for road tires, yes, you need tubeless. For mountain bike tires, you'd don't need tubeless tires, but it's very helpful. My mountain bike has Schwalbe Hans Dampf tubeless front, and regular rear. The rear tires is much more difficult to seat, the beads don't stay locked if you lose pressure, and goes sealant 2-3x faster than the front (you can see the sealant weeping through the sidewalls).
If you've got nearly new tires, its probably worth just converting them, but if they're fairly worn already, use it as an excuse to buy new tires.
As far as tubeless tires, it depends a little on the application, for road tires, yes, you need tubeless. For mountain bike tires, you'd don't need tubeless tires, but it's very helpful. My mountain bike has Schwalbe Hans Dampf tubeless front, and regular rear. The rear tires is much more difficult to seat, the beads don't stay locked if you lose pressure, and goes sealant 2-3x faster than the front (you can see the sealant weeping through the sidewalls).
If you've got nearly new tires, its probably worth just converting them, but if they're fairly worn already, use it as an excuse to buy new tires.
04-20-16, 08:43 AM
#4
Banned
Not if you just keep using inner tubes 
Rim has to be Air Tight , otherwise..
rolled and pinned rims can never be So.
Rim has to be Air Tight , otherwise..
rolled and pinned rims can never be So.
04-20-16, 09:44 AM
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
The purpose of the rubber strip is two fold, one to help seal things up, and two to help build up the rim bed for a better fit. It's not necessary though.
As far as tubeless tires, it depends a little on the application, for road tires, yes, you need tubeless. For mountain bike tires, you'd don't need tubeless tires, but it's very helpful. My mountain bike has Schwalbe Hans Dampf tubeless front, and regular rear. The rear tires is much more difficult to seat, the beads don't stay locked if you lose pressure, and goes sealant 2-3x faster than the front (you can see the sealant weeping through the sidewalls).
If you've got nearly new tires, its probably worth just converting them, but if they're fairly worn already, use it as an excuse to buy new tires.
As far as tubeless tires, it depends a little on the application, for road tires, yes, you need tubeless. For mountain bike tires, you'd don't need tubeless tires, but it's very helpful. My mountain bike has Schwalbe Hans Dampf tubeless front, and regular rear. The rear tires is much more difficult to seat, the beads don't stay locked if you lose pressure, and goes sealant 2-3x faster than the front (you can see the sealant weeping through the sidewalls).
If you've got nearly new tires, its probably worth just converting them, but if they're fairly worn already, use it as an excuse to buy new tires.
but do not use a rim strip and only tape, is it going to have problems sealing without the rim strip?
04-20-16, 10:46 AM
#7
Senior Member
There are many approaches, including cutting a tube in half, or using rim tape designed for tubeless conversions.
04-20-16, 11:32 AM
#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
You need something more than standard rim tape. Standard rim tape isn't air tight, and the sealant generally works on the outside rather than the inside. The better sealed the inside is, the better off you'll be.
There are many approaches, including cutting a tube in half, or using rim tape designed for tubeless conversions.
There are many approaches, including cutting a tube in half, or using rim tape designed for tubeless conversions.
04-20-16, 01:45 PM
#9
Senior Member
By Rim tape are you talking about porous cloth Rim tape like what's on my rims now acting as an inner tube liner? I was planning on using Gorilla Tape to seal my spoke holes. I just want to know if the rubber liner does anything to help the beadlock against the side wall? The inside of these rims has a little hook on it similar to the inside of my Stan's rims
The rubber strip should help some by making the rim bed thicker especially at the bead wall, so there's less room for the bead to move up/down. It will also make the tire more difficult to mount. The Gorilla Tape method clearly works, plenty of people have had success with it.
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