helpless

Hi,

I have a Shimano CS-HG61 11-34T cassette. I also have a Park FR-5 cassette lock ring tool, which is supposed to fit Shimano lock rings. The instructions say I need tool TL-LR15. Is there a Park equivalent?

Thanks.

operator

The FR-5 works just fine. Shimano documents are not going to list compatible tools of non shimano origin. The reason is obvious.

Ingleside

Is the problem that it does not fit into the lock ring as in the splines do not match up OR is the tool not going in deep enough? If the problem is the latter use your quick release ( without springs ) and use it to keep the lockrng tool against the lockring when you apply pressure. With some hub designs some lockring tools do not go in deep enough and need some pressure to be kept in place.

helpless

Thanks for the response, but it is confounding. I have a brand new FR-5 Park tool, and it does not slot into the lock ring on my cassette. I took the lock ring off my cassette and played with it again, and the tool will not slot into it.

I don't know whether I have a defective tool or a defective lock ring, but they do not work together.

helpless

Well, the tooth match is close; and if I tilt the tool to one side, then some of the teeth engage slightly(<1mm), so I can spin the lock ring when it is loose. But I can't get 30 N-m of bite with just a few teeth engaged.

I checked the tool to see if there are any burrs on it, and it looks fine. The lock ring doesn't look like it has any burrs either.

JonathanGennick 

Would it be possible to post a photo or two?

HillRider

This is a reach but you don't by any chance actually have a Park BBT-5 instead of a Part FR-5? The BBT-5 is a Campy lockring tool and fits Shimano lockrings just the way you describe.

Al1943

Can you try the tool on other Shimano lockrings? Can you try someone else's tool on your lockring?

helpless

No I checked that straight away. The packaging says FR-5 and the tool has FR-5 stamped on it.

I went to an LBS and they took a brand new cassette--just like mine--out of the box, and they tried their FR-5 tool on it. The tool fit the lock ring. They even let me try it.

I decided there must be something I can file off to make it fit, but I can't see any nubs to file, so I guess I will have to go to an LBS with my tool and lock ring and buy another tool and see what happens.

Here are some pictures:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/4941685...7624233174474/

HillRider

If your lockring is defective, I'm sure the dealer has plenty lying around he can give you as a replacement. Be sure to get a lock ring for an 11T small cog as they are different from those supplied with a 12 or 13T first position cassette. Same spline pattern but smaller OD.

If the FR-5 is defective, Park will replace it under warranty at no cost.

helpless

Mystery solved. I went to another LBS and the mechanic pulled out his FR-5G tool and it fit the lock ring. He then tried my FR-5 tool and it didn't fit the lock ring. He told me I needed an FR-5G tool. I told him I didn't know much about building up bikes, but it was my understanding that the FR-5G tool was the same tool as the FR-5 but with a "G"uide pin down the center. He said he would try to dig up an FR-5 tool in the back of the shop. He found one, and his FR-5 tool also fit my lock ring.

So my FR-5 tool was defective, right? He pulled another FR-5 tool off the retail shelf, opened up the package, and it wouldn't fit the lock ring. He said he was going to pull the rest of the FR-5 tools off the shelf and have his manager call Park.

So the end result is that older FR-5 tools and FR-5G tools fit the lock ring, but the present batch of FR-5 tools from Park don't. I wonder if the current batch of FR-5G tools also have the same problem. If I find an FR-5G tool in a shop somewhere, I'll buy it and test it out.

By the way, my instructions say to tighten the lock ring to 30-50 N-m. I tightened my lock ring with a loaner FR-5 tool, and it made clicking noises as I tightened it, and I don't think I was anywhere near 30 N-m when I stopped for fear I was doing something wrong. My Campy lock rings never made clicking sounds like that when I tightened them--they tightened like a normal nut and smoothly got tighter and tighter. I also never tightened my Campy lock ring very tight. Is just snugging up the Shimano lock ring good enough? I have it beyond snug now, and it is pretty darn tight, but I don't think I got it up to 30 N-m.

HillRider

Sounds like Park had a run of bad FR-5's. You might call them directly as tell them what you found. I wouldn't be surprised if a new good one appeared in your mail in a couple of days.

Years ago I broke an early CT-3 (Park's shop type chain tool) which had an aluminum housing. I called to ask what to do and they sent me a new (steel) version, no questions asked. They didn't even ask for the dead body to be returned.

rm -rf

10 speed Campagnolo lock rings click many many times before they hit the recommended 50 Nm. I have a clicking torque wrench, and have to go slow to tell whether the click is coming from the wrench or the lock ring.

Al1943

You need to tighten to the recommended torque. Loose cogs can damage the freehub splines and can also cause shifting problems.

DMF 

Just a tool and a wrench? Then you have no idea how tight it actually is, do you? And if you don't know, how do we?

Shimano lock rings have little bumps under them that make it click. Apparently your Campy didn't.

helpless

I have a torque wrench. I've tightened things by hand and then tested how tight they were with the torque wrench. I can make an educated guess how tight I've tightened something when I do it by hand.

helpless

I have a torque wrench. I've tightened things by hand and then tested how tight they were with the torque wrench. I can make an educated guess how tight I've tightened something when I do it by hand.

PBRStreetgang

Helpless - you're absolutely right.

There was a batch of FR-5 lockring tools that were defective. I just got off the phone with Park and they confirmed it. Additionally, they were more than happy to replace the tool at no cost. The fellow that I spoke with was named Mark and was extremely helpful. He said in the meantime, the best thing to do would be to bum a working FR-5 off a buddy, or head to a local shop and have them break loose your existing cassette / tighten your new one.

I apologize if this has already been mentioned. I just thought it might be relevant as I had the same exact problem with my FR-5.

For what it's worth, I'm sure glad I found this thread as I thought I was going out of my mind trying to get mine to work.

key_rider

Just had the exact same thing and was getting extremely frustrated until I found out that Park actually made a bad batch.

PegWlkr

Hello - I was having the same problem and was enlightened by your post. I brought my tool with the original packaging back to the LBS where I purchased it in the hopes they would just replace it with another one. Instead, I should have saved myself the trip and contacted Park Tools directly. Not sure if all LBS operate this way, but maybe I can save someone gas and time. Park Tools will be sending me a new one. Thanks for posting. My tool was given to me for Christmas 2009.

Jim Cash

Thanks for the post and info. I bought FR-5G just the other day and it did not fit. I took it back to a LBS where I bought it and explained to the expert what was happening and about this information. I had the wheel with me and of course he tried to put it in, then he asked if he could have the wheel for a moment and went to his bench. He laid it down put the tool in place and proceeded to wind up with all his weight to force it in. I said NO! real loud, he was a bit shocked and looked at me indignantly and said, “Sometimes you have to force them in”. He started to wind up again and I said NO! again, he ignored me.,. he was going to show me how cleaver he was and how ignorant I was of mechanical things.

He is an expert but not professional. The tool is some of the hardest steel there is. So is the receiver. There is no way you can ‘break one in”. I told him to look up “FR-5G and tight”, and he said he did not need to do that. They had no more in stock but he offered to look for one that was ‘Broke-in”. I should have taken him up on it and left him with a new one so he could break something else with it.
I about freaked out when he was going to force all his weight on my wheel. He did not do anything to protect the other side of the wheel and it was on a steel bench. In thinking about that I just inspected the wheel and sure enough, the expert hosed the bearing hub dust cover insert. What a jerk.

The packaging had a 2008 copyright on it. Since this has been a problem for some time I just want to say Thanks Park. Thanks for nothing. You should have recalled the product a long time ago so this would not happen.
Some people should never be allowed to work on bikes and get paid for it. Some freebie I got today! Now I have to fix something that was just fine before ‘Break-in”.

Since Park still has tools out there that are not even an interference fit, I hope anyone who goes through this can save their wheel from the same disaster I went through at the hands of an expert who is too proud to listen.

Why did he not listen? https://youarenotsosmart.com/2010/05/...kruger-effect/

cmolway

Good to know. I picked up a fr-5g recently that does not fit my cassette either. I had a fr-5 kicking around that works so I was left thinking I somehow bought the wrong tool. Looks like I'll be taking it back to my LBS if there is was a production problem with them.