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56” vs 58” fit question

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56” vs 58” fit question

Old 11-26-18, 10:02 AM
  #26  
bruce19
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I follow the LeMond theory for ballpark fit. Inseam in cm x.665 = frame size C to C. For me at 5'9" and 32" inseam ii means a 54-55 frame. FWIW the smaller the frame the lighter the bike if that matters to you. My Guru steel is 55 w/55 TT. My Masi is a 58 w/90 stem. Both work well for me but the Guru is definitely quicker handling. FWIW I have C1&C2 fused.
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Old 11-26-18, 11:06 PM
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Originally Posted by bruce19
I follow the LeMond theory for ballpark fit. Inseam in cm x.665 = frame size C to C. For me at 5'9" and 32" inseam ii means a 54-55 frame. FWIW the smaller the frame the lighter the bike if that matters to you. My Guru steel is 55 w/55 TT. My Masi is a 58 w/90 stem. Both work well for me but the Guru is definitely quicker handling. FWIW I have C1&C2 fused.
That seems to work-- not the inseam that's printed on the label of a pair of Levis tho, but, e.g., if you can stand over a yardstick with the end of the stick in your crotch, you probably can make a 59 work but chances are a 61 will be a lot better and, you can still go fairly aero with a pair of clip-ons.
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Old 11-27-18, 12:41 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by McBTC
That seems to work-- not the inseam that's printed on the label of a pair of Levis tho, but, e.g., if you can stand over a yardstick with the end of the stick in your crotch, you probably can make a 59 work but chances are a 61 will be a lot better and, you can still go fairly aero with a pair of clip-ons.
Exactly. Inseam without shoes. It's worked for me for many years. This is not to imply that an actual fitting by an experienced bike fit pro won't give you more precise fit. My Guru is a 55 with a 55 TT, also know as a "square" frame.
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Old 11-27-18, 01:42 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by wolfpack95
I was thinking being more upright (smaller frame) with shorter reach would reduce neck angle and pain. Is this correct?
Not necessarily. The smaller frame will require you to raise your seat post, yet your handlebars stay close to the frame. So you will have more drop on a smaller frame, unless you are able to get a lot of spacers under the stem.

I like the idea of going with the larger frame and a shorter length stem. You should be able to make up the difference in top tube length with a shorter stem.
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Old 11-28-18, 02:54 PM
  #30  
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Height doesn't tell the whole story. You can have short legs and long torso or long legs and short torso but be the same height. These two people may need different sized frames.
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Old 11-28-18, 07:16 PM
  #31  
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Will tell you guys having been at this for a long time, it will come down a lot to personal preference, your fitness, flexibility and strength...and even weight.

The presenter Simon Richardson of GCN fame and one of my very favorite cycling celebs and ex pro and I as it turns out are exactly the same size...limb length, height at 6'1"...same saddle height. He is a bit lighter because I choose to be a slightly higher weight and more of a Tri body as a swimmer as well but we have similar bodies. Simon of course is an expert on cycling and fit and he has talked about his particular position 'preference' on the bike. But of course because we are the same size, I am quite interested in his 'choice' of fit on the bike. As it turns out, we ride a different size bike. Simon admits he likes his handlebar close in and down...about 12 cm of drop. I like my bar farther away and higher. My personal preference. Net reach based upon our choices is about the same. Simon rides a 56 frame and I choose a 58cm with long stem.

There really is no better teacher than trial and error. Each rider shown own different size bikes over a period of time and figure out what works best for him or her.

I would say most 6' tall guys who race professionally are on a 56cm frame like Peter Sagan. But there are notable exceptions like Lance at 5'10" he prefers an up and out fit and throughout his career rode a 58cm Madone with long stem...a very different fit than the taller Sagan who rides one size smaller frame.

So there is no agreement other than personal preference which can only get sorted by trying different permutations of fit and learn what works best for you. Simon Richarson's fit doesn't work for me.

Last edited by Campag4life; 11-29-18 at 07:54 AM.
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Old 11-30-18, 02:08 PM
  #32  
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I agree with the other posters that you have to really just try the bike. Sizes across manufactures seem to be inconsistent as well as sizes year to year with the same manufacturer. I noticed that the bike you are going to is a Trek. Depending on what year the bike is - somewhere around 2010 they started going to fit as well as size on some of their road bikes. The fit's were done with H1, H2 & H3. H1 was most aggressive / racing style and then H3 was more comfort fit.

I am 5 ft 9. My first road bike (Trek) was a 54 cm. I don't remember how detailed the fit was. He took a bunch of measurements and put them in the computer & that is what he recommended. I was brand new to road bikes and had no idea anyway. I never experienced any pain and just assumed I was a size 54. 7 years later, a couple additional lbs later, back in the market for a new bike - I was looking a new 54 again. But they also had a leftover 56 cm (also a Trek) from the year before at an outstanding price - so I tried it. To me it felt a little better but I was still skeptical. So I went to a fitter & had him do a full fit & seemed fine with it - so I bought the bike. At home my measurements (reach, standover etc.) ended up being really close between the 54 and 56 from the same manufacturer. I agree with the poster above who mentioned the larger frame seems more stable and comfortable. I don't do many fast group rides anymore so things like sprinting and jumps are not as important to me. The 56 is my go to bike but still have the 54 that gets ridden from time to time.
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Old 12-02-18, 08:13 AM
  #33  
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I always get 58s now, though many fitters put me on a 56. I simply use a shorter stem and get the taller headtube (and no toe overlap). There is no downside for me. I got rid of my 56s. If I go custom, I'd prob get a top tube of around 56/57cm and a head tube closer to most 58cm bikes...19cm or so.
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